LOST TALE

I have mine pointed at my feet. You don't know!

I have mine pointed at my feet. You don't know!

It never happen to me before in DP. It is very tided and won't simply loose out. Not happen to my home PC, my work PC.
For HDMI they don't have the clip but also won't loose out by simply nudges it. This also not happen to my home PC, home 2 laptop and also my work PC.
 
I currently still have 5 monitors in use (1 at home, 3 at office, 1 at home town) and also same it is tide and not happen loose out from my monitor part connection as well, either it is DP or HDMI.

It doesn't show up in a screenshot, only on the monitor itself.  Hard to take a picture because of all the image processing that happens with a photo but there's a thin horizontal white line between the T and S in "RTX 40 S" .
 

 
It comes and goes depending on what is on screen.  If I drop to 120Hz it's fully gone.
 

DP 1.2 was published in 2010. We didn't see widespread implementation in monitors until around 2013. DP 1.3 was published in 2014, we didn't see HBR3 in graphics cards until the end of 2016 as I recall. HDMI 2.1 was published in 2017, and didn't see wide adoption until around 2021.
 
DP 2.0 was only published in 2019. 3 years is a pretty typical time for technology to be developed that implements the standard to reach consumers. So 2022 would be the *expected* time under normal circumstances, and given COVID hit right after the standard was published, extra delay beyond normal was also to be anticipated. To be honest I'm surprised AMD was able to include it in their next generation. I expected to be waiting 1 more year.

SMR should be fine here. You don't seem to need much write performance. For torrents, Id have it download to another drive, then just copy the file when its down downloaded. I think many programs allow this.

I like FreeFileSync.

My dude is pretty damn late to the party on mining even if he had a decent build for it, really. 

A used Samsung S10 is a solid option off of eBay for around 200 USD. Might be overkill for what you are looking, maybe a Sony Xperia xa2 ultra for around 80 USD on ebay or a Sony Xperia xz2 for around 130 USD on ebay .

Could be from the start/stop scheme or could just be the fan dying. You'll never be able to quantify a shortened life span, if any, from starting and stopping a CPU fan (or any other PC fan for that matter). THEORETICALLY there should be a little more wear when it first spins up, but again, you'll never be able to say it caused early failure or not.
 
Regardless, it's a silly control strategy for a CPU fan. When I had a motherboard that support SpeedFan I spent entirely too much time trying to come up with clever strategies to stop fans (case, CPU, GPU) until certain temp thresholds. Setting large hysteresis values to prevent the fan cycling on/off all the time as CPU temps fluctuated normally. All in the name of keeping it as quiet as possible. Fun to mess around with, but totally unnecessary and performed worse.
 
In the end, just setting constant minimum RPM that's acceptable for noise and letting it linearly ramp up was almost always better.

There is no point in "upgrading" to a 5.5 year old card which has an increasingly insufficient amount of VRAM. 

The hardware encoder on the video card is optimized for speed (real time encoding) within the constraints of the hardware chip. So it trades off some quality for speed. You already lose some quality by capturing stuff with Relive, which uses the hardware encoder.
Compressing the video again using the hardware encoder will simply result in further quality loss, it's like opening a JPG picture with your favorite picture viewer and saving the picture again as another JPG file.
 
If you want to reduce the video size to upload to Youtube then it's not a good idea, because Youtube will take your video and recompress it again, so basically your content will go through 3 recompressions, each time losing some quality.
 
 
If you have a lot of disk space, your best option would be to skip Relive and use OBS with x264 software encoder configured when capturing stuff - but the trick is in what configuration options you use with the encoder.
You want to configure the encoder into a mode where it sort of works like saving a series of PNG pictures ... basically you tell the encoder you don't care about disk space, you don't want it to be "smart" and use a lot of cpu time to find things in the frames that can be compressed so that you end up with a low bitrate, you just want to work like a near lossless compressor. 
So in OBS, you can go and set it x264 as encoder and then go in configuration and you
* set it in CRF  (constant rate factor ) - think of it like picture quality level, where 0 is lossless and something like 50 is worst. The default for 8-12 GB 1080 videos would be around 18-22
You don't want to set it as 0 as that's lossless and some video editors don't support lossless h264 (4:4:4 Predictive), but you can set it at around 5-8, any lower you wouldn't notice quality difference.
Basically, that 5-8 range is like when you save a picture to JPG at quality 95-98%, practically almost lossless. You tell the encoder that as soon as it finds some stuff that can be removed without dropping the quality level lower than 95-98% jpg equivalent, the encoder should stop and be happy about it and move on to next frame, so you get very low cpu usage but disk space is higher.
* set the CPU Usage preset to Ultrafast. In CRF mode, the encoder stops as soon as that level of quality is reached, so this cpu usage preset doesn't matter. The higher we raise this preset, it just means the encoder spends more time figuring out what can be compressed more while still retaining that 95-98% jpg equivalent quality. So the more you increase this, the more cpu would be used, and you'd get less disk space used on your computer. But, you don't care about disk space because you'll recompress the video with high quality settings when you're done.
* tune ... there's no point to it here, it would help when you're recompressing this to a specific bitrate, to retain as much quality as possible.
Then you can add specific parameters in the x264 options
 
So basically, if you capture 1080p 60 Hz, with CRF 5-8  you will probably average around 80-150 mbps bitrate, or around 2-4 GB per minute, so one hour of recording would probably be around 200-300 GB.
However, you can then load that video into Handbrake or other software and configure either a CRF with higher value (ex 15-18 will probably result in around 30-50 mbps, maybe around 10 GB per hour ) or do 2-pass encoding with a specific bitrate, set tune to animation (for cell shading, pixel art, games with sharp edges), set preset to slower or very slow, set profile high, set
 

It's not a matter of opinion. Check the Gamers Nexus video linked above. Again, it's the fact that there's only 4 lanes. Even if it was 8, I'd give you that PCIe 3.0x8 might be okay, but PCIe 3.0x4? Nope.

handbrake 
 
youll get to half size pretty easily and readability will be at least ok.
 

What codec do you want to turn it into? If you want smaller, probably go with h.265, and use cpu encoder for the best compression effiency.

What is the source footage?

Im a big fan of shutter encoder, and you can use your gpu with it, but depending on codec, the gpu encoder is much worse than using cpu power, so if you want small sizes id just use your cpu.

You might be able to swap the AMD card for an equal or better NVidia equivalent as the AMD card likely mines better. this is my guess however nvidia seems to have a fanboy premium

Are the colors of AHVA noticeably better than TN and noticeably worse than IPS? 

Yes and no.

man i must of got the holy grail of ink jet printers

Totally depends on game settings: For example if you turn off FSAA and hairworks and unnecessary stuff like that you will be fine with a 1080 my 290x is ageing more and more everyday but I still get by playing games on my 4k monitor. Sure I don't get 60fps consistantly but Its not a stuttering unplayable mess in fact its quite the opposite.

the key is how much you'd get for the 2070S, and the most efficient thing to do is for one of u to just sell the 3060ti off brand new while u keep the 2070S

I've moved it to the graphics card forum and removed the other post.
For the record if it's posted in the wrong forum just report the post as "posted in the wrong subforum". You don't need to be the OP to report it. Commenting and saying it's posted in the wrong forum usually just causes more work, plus such comments are redundant once the thread is moved.

They’ll run all older versions of DirectX though there are other software limits that keep a card like say, an RTX 3090 from properly playing games from something like the DX7 era *sometimes*.
Some older games won’t have any idea what to do with a modern gpu, but can sort of brute force themselves to run “in the blind” so to speak.
 
Example, older versions of Halo: Combat Evolved, don’t understand any modern gpu after about the nvidia 8000 series. And they’ll ask to run in compatibility mode but if you opt to ignore that it’ll just use any resources they need unless the game is using something where it would run out of resources.
For a specific example on that, Halo 1 will error if you have a 750ti, but it’ll run flawlessly maxed out on a 750ti because everything it needs is there. However it also doesn’t know what intel HD3000, Sandy bridge igpu, is at all. So it’ll run on HD3000 but if you’re vram is limited to say, 128mb, it’ll hard crash when it uses 129mb because it doesn’t know what’s there or what it can use.

Do graphic cards that support DX 12, support all previous versions of DX or is there a cutoff?