BCMods

This guide applies to 20/4 pin motherboard connectors, 4/8 pin CPU power connectors as well as 6/8 pin GPU connectors. It can be used to assist you in sleeving your cables and/or replacing your connectors. I'm not responsible for you breaking your PSU/power connectors and voiding your warranty.
Tools required;
Staples
Patience
Optional extras;
Needle-nose pliers
Flathead screwdriver
Electrical tape
Lighter
Start by taking a few staples. You need to get them separated but due to their size this can be a little tricky. I found the easiest way to do this if you don't have long fingernails is to take the staples, lay them on a scratch resistant surface (I used my mouse mat) and apply pressure with a flathead screwdriver.

Once you have at least 2 staples on their own, bend them out into a right angle.

What you're trying to do with the staple is press the little clips down on the side of the pins (pictured below), releasing them from the connector.

The easiest way to do this is to insert the first staple right in the middle left side of the pin you're trying to remove.


When inserting the staple, you will feel a slight click, which is the little clip being moved.
Once the first staple is inserted, the second should become a lot easier to release the clip due to the added pressure. If you're having trouble with the fist staple, try leaving it in so the space is still restricted, inserting the second staple successfully, then coming back to the first with the second still inserted.

Hopefully, if you've done everything right, the pin should pull free with a reasonable amount of force. ONLY PULL BY THE HEATSHRINK! If your cables are sleeved and you pull on the sleeving, it will slide away from the heatshrink and you'll either wreck it, or have to go through the daunting process of getting the sleeving back into the heatshrink unless you have any more to replace it with.

After a while (it doesn't take long at all once you get the hang of it) you should end up with something like this;

To reinsert your pins into their connectors, simply push them in. Some can be a lot harder than others but a pair of needle-nose pliers should sort out any problems. The two sharp prongs need to be inserted facing the latch that locks your power connector into the female socket. I'm unsure as to whether or not they'll go in the other way around but since that's the way they came out, i'll leave them as they were.
Hopefully your hard work should pay off and you'll end up with something like this (I replaced my 8 pin connectors with 6 because of my new GPU);


A couple of tips
Tape up your unused pins with electrical tape. Even though the extra 2 pins on an 8 pin connector are grounds, you don't want them touching.

If you're having trouble getting a pin to release, try pushing up on the heatshrink on the wire to force it further into the connector.
If you do accidentally pull on your sleeving and end up making it look like this, there is a fix.

Simply bend the heatshrink/end of the sleeving at a 45 degree angle and use a fat-head screwdriver to force the frayed sleeving back into the heatshrink. Once all of the loose ends are back in, push up on the sleeving to get it right up inside of the heatshrink. The use a lighter and wave the flame across the end of the heatrink to seal it up. Try not to set anything on fire...

Hope this helped, feel free to ask any questions :)

Wow dude that's awful, wish you all the best.

I turned 16 a few months ago and I'll be picking up a Peugeot XPS 50 or Yamaha DT50 once I can afford one.
 
When I'm 17 I'm planning on getting a Yamaha WR125x and passing my car test, purely to give me some flexibility.
 
How tall are you? If you're 6' or bigger when you're 17 the CBR won't look right since they aren't full size. I'd rather get something bigger like a CBF125 or even better, a supermoto ;)

and with a bit more work (sponsor decals):
 

love this.

Luke and Linus told us yesterday to photoshop a monster truck with the Lynda.com image driving, so I did it.
I hope you all find it funny

Woah never seen this thread this active before.
 
With that said, I'm considering undergoing a conversion on my FZ6R to turn it into a XJ6N. It would shed a few pounds and I'd have a unique looking bike since that variant is not sold here in America. All I need to do is buy the plastics, some screws, and a speedometer mounting plate which will set me back around $500 I believe. It should make for a good winter project if I have the funds available. My friends are going to think I have an entirely different bike after I finish
 
This is how I forsee it turning out except lowered with clip ons:
 

And how much value it lost. As killcomic said, just take it on the chin, it won't cover a new rig now anyway probably.

Even though I have a desktop I have no intention of replacing my M18x (well actually I am looking for a new gaming laptop)
 
Personally I would keep the M17x and save up for a desktop for next year, then you have a kick ass desktop and a kick ass portable system

How about the Creative Aurvana Live!   ?  They don't isolate that good and the cable is short, but the sound nice. 
Another suggestion are the  Philips Cityscape Uptown  with nice isolation and almost no sound leakage. The cable is also very short and the controls buttons are not great. 

Both headphones are very good. The Philips are more comfortable and have better isolation, but the creatives might sound better. 

Your options are great too.

This guide applies to 20/4 pin motherboard connectors, 4/8 pin CPU power connectors as well as 6/8 pin GPU connectors. It can be used to assist you in sleeving your cables and/or replacing your connectors. I'm not responsible for you breaking your PSU/power connectors and voiding your warranty.
Tools required;
Staples
Patience
Optional extras;
Needle-nose pliers
Flathead screwdriver
Electrical tape
Lighter
Start by taking a few staples. You need to get them separated but due to their size this can be a little tricky. I found the easiest way to do this if you don't have long fingernails is to take the staples, lay them on a scratch resistant surface (I used my mouse mat) and apply pressure with a flathead screwdriver.

Once you have at least 2 staples on their own, bend them out into a right angle.

What you're trying to do with the staple is press the little clips down on the side of the pins (pictured below), releasing them from the connector.

The easiest way to do this is to insert the first staple right in the middle left side of the pin you're trying to remove.


When inserting the staple, you will feel a slight click, which is the little clip being moved.
Once the first staple is inserted, the second should become a lot easier to release the clip due to the added pressure. If you're having trouble with the fist staple, try leaving it in so the space is still restricted, inserting the second staple successfully, then coming back to the first with the second still inserted.

Hopefully, if you've done everything right, the pin should pull free with a reasonable amount of force. ONLY PULL BY THE HEATSHRINK! If your cables are sleeved and you pull on the sleeving, it will slide away from the heatshrink and you'll either wreck it, or have to go through the daunting process of getting the sleeving back into the heatshrink unless you have any more to replace it with.

After a while (it doesn't take long at all once you get the hang of it) you should end up with something like this;

To reinsert your pins into their connectors, simply push them in. Some can be a lot harder than others but a pair of needle-nose pliers should sort out any problems. The two sharp prongs need to be inserted facing the latch that locks your power connector into the female socket. I'm unsure as to whether or not they'll go in the other way around but since that's the way they came out, i'll leave them as they were.
Hopefully your hard work should pay off and you'll end up with something like this (I replaced my 8 pin connectors with 6 because of my new GPU);


A couple of tips
Tape up your unused pins with electrical tape. Even though the extra 2 pins on an 8 pin connector are grounds, you don't want them touching.

If you're having trouble getting a pin to release, try pushing up on the heatshrink on the wire to force it further into the connector.
If you do accidentally pull on your sleeving and end up making it look like this, there is a fix.

Simply bend the heatshrink/end of the sleeving at a 45 degree angle and use a fat-head screwdriver to force the frayed sleeving back into the heatshrink. Once all of the loose ends are back in, push up on the sleeving to get it right up inside of the heatshrink. The use a lighter and wave the flame across the end of the heatrink to seal it up. Try not to set anything on fire...

Hope this helped, feel free to ask any questions :)

I turned 16 a few months ago and I'll be picking up a Peugeot XPS 50 or Yamaha DT50 once I can afford one.
 
When I'm 17 I'm planning on getting a Yamaha WR125x and passing my car test, purely to give me some flexibility.
 
How tall are you? If you're 6' or bigger when you're 17 the CBR won't look right since they aren't full size. I'd rather get something bigger like a CBF125 or even better, a supermoto ;)

Hey guys another motorbike nut here  
 
I ride a 2008 ZX6R Ninja 
 
and a 2005 Hornet 600

2013 Kawasaki Ninja 300
 

yush, 2014 special edition z1000 
 
Was originally looking at buying an r6 but after going for a 2hr ride on a friends, I found it sort of uncomfortable so I started looking at naked/super nakeds and fell in love with it

Hello all,
 
Along with others I was getting very impatience about the release of the new RGB keyboards, I mean it's not like they showed it off to us over 6 months ago...oh.
 
First of all I contacted corsair via live chat where I was kindly greeted by someone called 'Rowena C'
She said: The red switch version was anticipated to release the end of July, but I am not to sure of it myself. The blue/brown was set for late August.
 
Not being satisfied with this answer I decided to dig through corsairs websites to find some e-mail addresses, I got this response from a Mr James Cao.
 
Hi Nathan!
 
Thanks for your email. We did anticipate a late August/early September release of the K70 RGB keyboards which we made public (along with pricing) at Computex. There was also a blog here a week after too: http://www.corsair.com/en-us/blog/2014/june/computex-wrapup-rgb-keyboards
 
The link actually states that: The keyboard would be available late July with Cherry MX RGB red switches (blue and brown switches available late August) (K70), along with various other sources including their press release.
 
It has been a long road and while we have cleared many hurdles, there are still a few more to tackle before this keyboard can be released. One of the consequences of being the first one to work with a new Cherry switch is that we had to design everything from scratch. There is nothing internally that is shared with previous Cherry MX keyboards as we even had to design a new PCB to support the new switches and LED designs. We understand that the wait is crucial and people are very desperate to get their hands on a keyboard, but we will not release a product until we are sure that all the bugs and kinks are squared away in order to deliver a positive customer experience.
 
There will be nothing more frustrating than to get a product you’ve been waiting almost a year for and it does not live up to the hype or expectations of customers like yourself. We understand not everyone may have patience, it is more important for us to make sure everything is A+ and worthy of the Corsair branding. I understand your impatience but I hope this helps you understand why it has been a long battle.
 
Regards,
 
James Cao
Technical Marketing Specialist
 
I will be e-mailing James later asking him to make some sort of public announcement (Or at least change the dates on their websites) If anyone has any questions or statements that they would like me to include please feel free to leave them in this thread.
 
-Nathan
 
*EDIT*
 
James said he is more than happy to answer any of your questions about the corsair RGB keyboards directly via the forum, he will hopefully be around in the next few days.

Picked her up brand new mid June. She my baby <3

I really like that bike! I think it is a winner!

80 mpg, parallel twin torque, scooter-like storage space, great looks and it can cruise alone the motorway with an issue. What's not to like?
 
Oh yeah... and it's only £6299 OTR!
 
EDIT: Feel like I should work for Honda...

This thread needs more elbow dragging...
 

I caved in and bought a Pit Bull stand yesterday. To my surprise the standard pin works and I was able to drop the forks back down. I was going to buy one before winter hit anyways just not this early. Those stands are expensive but worth the premium. I have no reason to believe otherwise. Anyways, pic of my bike stripped down

I had to take the ENTIRE front end apart. Then I had to remove the front fender. After that I had to deflate the tire completely so I could fit the pin underneath. Needless to say it was all a complete pita but my bike is lowered and feels better than ever. No instability at high speeds, better cornering, and I love the more aggressive riding position. I'll post pics of the completed thing later tonight.

Got her this past March. Love her! ;-)
 
 
EDIT: I just wanted to add this so I don't look like I am bragging here. That's the bike I had for about 7 years before I got my Triple:
 

'96 Honda CB 500