Xx_osos_xX

The new power supply solved all my issues! 😄

Well I don't know if I can directly help you, But I can tell you my situation and maybe it's helpful. I have a
Ryzen 5 3600
b450 tomahawk max, 16gb ddr4
rx 5700xt
730watt thermaltake smart se that I bought in 2014. it's bronze rated and it was very cheap at the time.
every since I upgraded from my old gtx 960 i5 system i got random shutdowns, freezes, choppy gameplay, all sorts of problems. my pc crashes 3 - 5 times a day. I've been living this sad life for 7 months now. and finally I bought a new power supply. I bought a platinum 860w fractal design. it's gonna take a month till I can receive it but I'm fairly certain it's the power supply at this point. Like I've tried everything, I've tried using 2 seperate cables to feed my graphics card instead of 1, plugging my pc directly to the wall instead of the power strip, underclocking, I put my pc in 5c weather to eliminate the heat as an option. I did a clean install of windows 3 times now, used 10 different versions of the driver. you name it dude.
 
So yeah I think it's your power supply. You don't have to buy an expensive one like I did, a 600watt is defenitely enough. even a 500 watt. If you don't plan on upgrading any time soon. Get a high quality one that's at least 500watts. I recommend you check out the PSU Tier list here on the Linus forum. It's great. My Thermaltake power supply doesn't exist on it and I bet yours doesn't too. That's why they are hot garbage lol

Well I don't know if I can directly help you, But I can tell you my situation and maybe it's helpful. I have a
Ryzen 5 3600
b450 tomahawk max, 16gb ddr4
rx 5700xt
730watt thermaltake smart se that I bought in 2014. it's bronze rated and it was very cheap at the time.
every since I upgraded from my old gtx 960 i5 system i got random shutdowns, freezes, choppy gameplay, all sorts of problems. my pc crashes 3 - 5 times a day. I've been living this sad life for 7 months now. and finally I bought a new power supply. I bought a platinum 860w fractal design. it's gonna take a month till I can receive it but I'm fairly certain it's the power supply at this point. Like I've tried everything, I've tried using 2 seperate cables to feed my graphics card instead of 1, plugging my pc directly to the wall instead of the power strip, underclocking, I put my pc in 5c weather to eliminate the heat as an option. I did a clean install of windows 3 times now, used 10 different versions of the driver. you name it dude.
 
So yeah I think it's your power supply. You don't have to buy an expensive one like I did, a 600watt is defenitely enough. even a 500 watt. If you don't plan on upgrading any time soon. Get a high quality one that's at least 500watts. I recommend you check out the PSU Tier list here on the Linus forum. It's great. My Thermaltake power supply doesn't exist on it and I bet yours doesn't too. That's why they are hot garbage lol

I got a 144hz monitor recently,and noticed that its surprisingly smooth.And that got me thinking,if i move myy hand in real life in front of my eyes it looks stuttery compared to 144hz games any answers?

So, I have a problem with this setup from the day that i got it,
It was pre-built from a well known nationally e-store
Specs:
CPU: Ryzen 5 2600
MB: MSI B450-A-PRO
PSU: Segotep H9PLUS+ 520W
RAM: ADATA XPG 16GB(2x8GB)
GPU: MSI GTX 1060 3GT OC (3GB)
OS: Windows 10 PRO

The problem: Randomly when Playing games My system will somewhat loose power ; No Video, Audio still playing, Gpu fans 100% and the only way to resume from that is by restarting it from the button.
Well, that's the problem, the problem happen i would say quite Randomly.
Why? Well, at first i thought that just heavy games will cause that (like GTA 5, Rainbow 6 siege or battlefield 5)
But not, i had that problem happen in smaller games ( one i could remember is Among us)
Some Differences between the locks? Just 1 time, i was playing Gta 5 and pc locked as usual, restarted it, opened steam, discord (and the programs i use the most) as usual, and locked Again. That was First Time and single time yet.
What i saw to cause that problem more often than normal is Overclocking, CPU, RAM, GPU
The Most Stupid thing here is that the problem happens randomly, Maybe for a month nothing happens, but one day boom LOCKS

What I've Tried:
Changing ram slots (between them)
Change ram speed [ 2933 ( Advertized + cpu limit ) to 2400(default)]
Check Temps ( all good, even put a better cpu cooler)
Disabling something that had to do with Ram's sleep state i think
Checking Event Viewer ( just the usual Kernel-Power 41)
Possible Solutions :
Change That Piece of **** Segotep PSU (maybe)

If you could help me diagnose, or having some informations about my problem i would be thankful! 😇

Credit to: @LukeSavenije
 
The following list is based on facts, ranked on power delivery and known problems. The list will include boards that support CPU overclocking available at retail from different brands.
 
There are still differences in performance among boards of the same tier. As a result, those that barely made it into that tier will be in orange while those that are better than others in the same tier are in blue. Unless specified, boards sharing the same name and chipset in different form factors are ranked the same.
 
For advanced users: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Smj5dh97n32wJqm5dkdDcQt8ID7vH52-lKzaaXUUQx8/edit?usp=sharing
 
AMD
 
All current draw figures are based on Prime95 small FFT with AVX unless otherwise specified, in other words the worst case scenario.
 
Only often recommended sku of CPUs in the same generation and core/thread count configuration is named, others share the same rating.
 
Zen scales down frequency and voltage according to EDC (current limit) and TDC (thermal limit) settings of the motherboard so in theory you won’t cook the VRM of any board at stock, you just lose frequency.
 
For tier A and above, due to lack of feasible CPUs that allow testing of the boards at higher current ratings, there are some level on guessing in terms of how much more power the VRM can take.
 
AM4 (Athlon, Ryzen 3, Ryzen 5, Ryzen 7, Ryzen 9)
 
B550 and X570S Speculation: If you cant find the board above, then it should be here. If it's already up there, then ignore what it's placed here
 
TR4 (Ryzen Threadripper 1xxx and 2xxx) X399
 
sTRX4 (Ryzen Threadripper 3xxx) TRX40 (largely guessing since there's little data)
 
Sources:
 
Legacy list thread: Those looking to dive into Intel's outdated process node and recycled (for many times) architecture please refer to the old list
 

It's not absolutely terrible, but for moral reasons alone ("Thermalfake" scandal) I would get something else. Check out the PSU whitelist in my signature for some good options.

Hello,
 
i want to buy a new power supply i came across the 
Thermaltake Smart SE 730W modular the cables looks pretty nice for that price and its enough to power my rig.
does anybody know if its any good since i cant find alot of reviews of it. 

Note: The PSU Tier List has been migrated to a new thread: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1116640-psu-tier-list-40-rev-10/
 
 
***
 
Welcome to the brand new PSU Tier List! Worked on, by @Stefan Payne, @LukeSavenije, and myself. This is a complete overhaul.
 
We'd recommend that if you have a gaming system, to not have a unit below Tier B.
 
All information below is opinion based on fact. Units may be bumped down due to the following: missing protections, group regulation, bad electrical performance and catching fire.
List is subject to change at any time, due to change in sources available.
Single rail units exceeding 650W will not be placed above Tier A.
Sleeve bearing fans will not be placed above Tier B. Group regulated units will not be placed above Tier C.
 
Last updated 22 August, 108, revision r1.43.
 
 
Tier A+ (Ultra High-end)
Aerocool - Project 7 650W Antec - High Current Pro, High Current Platinum Be Quiet! - Straight Power 11, Dark Power Pro P10, Dark Power Pro 11 Bitfenix - Whisper, Formula Gold Cooler Master - old V series 550/650, MasterWatt Maker, MasterWatt Maker MiJ, new V Platinum 550/650 Corsair - AXi, RMi, RMx 550/650W, SF, HX 2017, HXi, RM (2019) 550/650 Enermax - Platimax, Platimax Digifanless  FSP - Hydro PTM 550/650W Mistel - MX650  NZXT - E-series 550/650W Seasonic - PRIME/PRIME Ultra 550W/600W/650W Super Flower - Leadex Gold II 550/650, Leadex Gold III 550/650 XFX - XTS 460/520W  
Tier A (High-end)  
Aerocool - Project 7 750W+ Antec - Earthwatts Pro Gold, HCG Gold Asus - ROG Thor Be Quiet! - Straight Power E10, Pure Power 10/11 =>400W, SFX-L Cooler Master - VSM-series =>550W,  MWE Gold, V Series 750W+ Cougar - GX-F Corsair - Vengeance Silver, AX760/860, HX gold, RM, TXM 2017, AX850/AX1000, RMx 750W+, RM (2019) 750W+ Enermax - RG, GX EVGA - 1000G, G1+, GQ, GD, P2, T2, G2, PS FSP - Hydro G, Dagger SFX, Hydro X, Aurum PT, Hydro PTM 750W Gigabyte - AP850GM, XP1200M  Kolink - Continuum NZXT - E-series 750W+ Riotoro - Onyx, Enigma, Enigma G2   Rosewill - Quark, Fortress, Capstone, Lightning, Silent Night, Tachyon, Photon SAMA - Armor Gold, Forza Titanium SeaSonic - Focus Plus Platinum, Platinum (XP/XP2/XP3), Focus Gold, Focus Plus Gold, X, Snow Silent, non-PRIME Fanless, PRIME/PRIME Ultra 750W+ Silverstone - Gold Evolution, Strider Gold, Nightjar, Strider Titanium Super Flower - Golden Green, Platinum King, Leadex I, Leadex Gold II 750W+, Leadex Gold III 750W+ Thermaltake - Toughpower Grand Platinum, Toughpower Grand/RGB 1200W, Toughpower iRGB Plus, DPS G RGB XFX - Pro Black Edition Limited, XTS 1000W  
Tier B (Budget)
Antec - EDGE, TruePower Classic be Quiet! - Power Zone, System Power 9 =>400 watts Corsair - Vengeance Bronze, CX* (2017), CXM* (2015),  CXM (2012)*=>750w Cooler Master - MWE Bronze =>600w Cougar - GX-S, LX Deepcool - DQ-ST EVGA - B2, BQ =>750, B3, G3 Fractal Design - Integra M FSP - Aurum Pro Lian Li - SFX-L LEPA - G600 Riotoro - Onyx Rosewill - Capstone G SeaSonic - M12II >=750W Silverstone - Bronze SFX V3.0, Strider GS Super Flower - Leadex Silver Thermaltake - Toughpower Grand/RGB, Toughpower DPS DPS Gold/RGB, London, BlueEvo 2.0, Smart Pro RGB, Smart series =>750W, Vivo - 24K 650W XFX -  Pro XXX, Pro XTR, Pro Black, Pro Black FM, TS Gold Xilence - Performance A+, Performance X Zalman - EBT   
Tier C (Prebuilt Replacement)
Antec - EarthWatts/EA Green, High Current Gamer, NEO ECO, Earthwatts Platinum be Quiet! -  Pure Power 10 <=350 watts, Pure Power 11 <=350 watts, Pure Power L9, System Power 9 <=350, Straight Power E9, Pure Power L8 Bitfenix - Fury Cooler Master - GM, GX Storm, MasterWatt Lite, mwe bronze <=500 watt Corsair - CX* 2012*, CXM 2012*, GS-series, VS grey Cougar - STX, VTX Enermax - Revolution X't EVGA - BQ <=650W, NEX Gold Fractal Design - Tesla R2 500W FSP - Aurum, Hydro GE, Aurum CM Inwin - Classic Series Seasonic - SS, SSP, S12II/M12II <=620W, ECO 430W Silverstone - Strider Plus, Bronze SFX (except 450W V3) Thermaltake - Toughpower Gold, Paris XFX - TS <650W, ProSeries Bronze <650W, Core >650W  
Tier D (just don’t buy…)
Antec - Basiq VP-F, Basiq BP, Basiq VP Bitfenix - BPA Cooler Master - B2, Elite Corsair - VS orange Diablotek - all units EVGA - 80 PLUS, Non Certified Enermax - NaXn 82+, Revolution SFX FSP - Raider Silver, Hexa Fractal Design - Integra R2 Gamdias - All units LEPA - MX-F1 MS-Tech - all units Raidmax - all units Rosewill - Hive-S, ARC (M) Silverstone - Strider Essential Tacens - all units Thermaltake - LitePower, ToughPower, Smart series <750W, TR2 XFX - XT Xilence - Performance C Zalman - GS/GT  
I don't see my unit here. Where does it rank?
You may find it in the legacy list, here
 
Why is FOCUS so low?
You can find more on this here.
 

 
Notes:
 

He asked if the power supply was good, how does BLCT's post answer that? It is just saying that you should spend money on a good power supply, which is true though it doesn't tell OP if the power supply is good or not?

He legit asked for none of that, he's here because of that reason.
He wants to know if it's safe, that's why he made a post.

https://rootsofprogress.org/alphafold-protein-folding-explainer
 
 
I'm just linking this as a bit of nice news, I guess?
 
The article is also nice because it actually gives a nice overview of what protein folding aims to achieve, what some common problems are, some nice pictures, etc...
 
This seems like good news. At least a step forward.
 
EDIT: Though it's not a solved problem yet: http://occamstypewriter.org/scurry/2020/12/02/no-deepmind-has-not-solved-protein-folding/
 
EDIT2: Though apparently this rebuttal doesn't hold much ground: https://news.ycombinator.com/item?id=25306954

I mean, a game can only look so good before you can't tell the difference. Mashing more and more pixels into a 2D texture can make the game exponentially harder to render, and slightly prettier

A 3080? Ultra settings are bs anyways as they are just adding bigger numbers that you won't see the benefit off. So basically make the game harder to run for next to no visual improvement. Also the 6900xt is supposed to be the 3090 competitor.
 
Btw don't spend double for a 3090 as the difference between a 3080 and 3090 is like 10-15% at most.

Hey guys,
 
For 4K ultra gaming - which gpu should I get ? 3090 6900xt or 6800xt?

Holy shit. I never expected to see sexual frustration in combination with ARM architecture.

Have a red devil 5700xt, and have had some stability issues. I'm trying to figure out what exactly is going on, atm i'm not even sure it's the gpu. I am using the silent 180w bios.
Other than that i have a 2600x and a rm750. The gpu is connected with one cable from each rail.
 
What happens is that randomly my computer will crash, this can be under any load. Most times i'll get a black screen, audio goess brrr wrrrr urrrr and then it shuts down. It doesn't reboot, it shuts down while still being on. Screen goes to sleep but fans are still spinning. On occasion it'll recover to desktop and the application just crashes.
 
I had gpuz record a log.
Had a massive lag, gpu drops to 805/806mhz, memory to 200mhz, load to 0%, memory controller to 1, chip power draw to 9. Every other metric looks normal. The "lag" was present for 4.5 secs before it continued, was playing a game that utilises ~70/80% at ~1300mhz, ~65/90w of power draw. So the system was by no means under stress during this. It happens what appears randomly, can play under full load, half load for hours, doesn't appear to matter. Drivers doesn't report they've been reset after a crash.
Hwinfo reports 12.091v on +12v, and this drops to 11.933v during light gaming, i do not know if this is significant. +5v is always slightly above 5.
 
Windows logs noticed nothing during this, while a full crash only get's a "system reboot was unexpected".
 
Any suggestions?

I have the same memory kit (G.Skill TridentZ F4-4133C19D-16GTZKWC), on an ASUS ROG STRIX X470 Gaming-F, Ryzen 3700X @ 4.4GHz(44 multiplier), and I've got 3600 stable at the below settings: 

 
I would like to add I chose 1.46V for the memory voltage and 1.1 for both SOC voltages. Those settings in blue are what I have, and red is what the "fast" preset is for 3600 memory speed. 
 
I've got the FCLK set to 1800 as well, since following what Buildzoid said, and most all the other youtube overclockers, that the "sweetspot" is 3600Mhz @ CL14 timings with an FCLK of 1800. 
 
There are some other odd settings for SUPER low memory(2133 MHz), but it have like a CL9 or 10 having the same performance.
 
I would also like to point out that that specific memory kit that I have can't go below CL15, its a factory hardware limitation of the memory, so if your's is anything similar, you might have that wall you'll run into as well.

To OC, you have to slowly increase RAM voltage like really slowly.
With memory, they don't produce much heat at all, so it's quite safe. Even on unstable overclocks, the worst that happens is you'll get an error when testing for stability and be kicked back to the drawing board. Though if you’re trying this on a laptop, you’ll want to verify that you’re able to clear CMOS (to reset the BIOS to default settings) if something does go wrong. 
most DDR4 RAM is usually 3000 Mhz, 3200 Mhz, or higher. This is because of XMP (Extreme Memory Profile). XMP is essentially the RAM telling the system, “Hey, I know DDR4 is only supposed to support speeds up to 2666 Mhz, but why don’t you go ahead and overclock me to the speed on the box?” It’s an overclock from the factory, already pre-tuned, tested, and ready to go. It accomplishes this at the hardware level with a chip on the RAM itself called a serial presence detect chip, so there’s only ever one XMP profile per stick
 
 
The hardest part of overclocking RAM is finding out what speed and timings you should use because the BIOS has more than 30 separate settings for you to tweak. Luckily, only four of them are considered ‘Primary’ timings, and you can calculate them with a tool called “Ryzen DRAM Calculator.” It’s tailored to AMD systems, but it will still work for Intel users as it’s largely about the memory timings, not the CPU.
Download the tool and fill in your RAM speed and what type you have (if you don’t know, a quick Google search for your RAM’s part number should bring up some results). Press the purple “R – XMP” button to load your kit’s rated specs, and then press “Calculate SAFE” or “Calculate FAST” to view your new timings. 
You can compare these timings with the rated specs using the “compare timings” button, and you’ll find that everything is tightened up a bit on the SAFE settings, and the primary CAS latency is reduced on the FAST settings. It’s hit or miss whether the FAST settings will work well for you, as it depends on the kit coming with a loose bin from the factory, but you can likely get it working on a safe voltage range.
You’ll want to send a screenshot of this to another device because you’ll need to enter these timings in the BIOS. Then, once you get it working, you’ll need to verify the overclock is stable using the calculator’s built-in memory tester. 

If it won't post anymore, clear cmos using the CLRTC pin on the motherboard.
https://www.asus.com/support/FAQ/1040820/
You'll now need to set up the RAM voltage, clock speed and CAS_latency manually instead of using XMP.

It worked.
God bless you. Such a life saver.
I just went to the drive. deleted all the partitions. and vWALA. it showed up!!!!

There is a program (use carefully!) called "Disk Genius" run that, it'll show all manner of drives on your system.
Report back.
It might be a mis-configuration in the BIOS.

Wrong.  Desktop usage of NAS drives is known to cause explosions.  They're deadlier than a water heater exploding.   Similar to what happens if you try to use a Xeon CPU on any land that is zoned residential.  KABOOM.  Entire families have been KILLED.

7920X is a terrible CPU for gaming.