Sin Stalker

It takes longer to unlock by adding additional steps to the process of getting into the phone. With a fingerprint sensor on the back or side, I can have the phone unlocked as I'm removing it from my pocket or picking it up from a desk. It also is done one-handed.
 
With under display, it requires an adjustment of grip to unlock, since I have to move my hand down from a secure grip. Usually I need two hands to unlock it as I change my hands position. 
 
There is also the issue of getting blinded whenever I unlock the screen in the evening/at night, since a bright light is required to allow the sensor to read the fingerprint.
 
I dislike it so much that I'd rather be stuck with a several year old phone should the industry go exclusively under display fingerprint sensors.
I think the tech is great and it's use has its place (such as in embedded consoles or some phones) but I don't like it or want it on my phone. 
 
My wife got a Pixel 7 with that $200 Mint mobile deal and we both hate that sensor as well. My wife dislikes the inconsistency and the bright light blinding her when unlocking. She's going to put up with it until we can unlock the phone and sell it. Then she'll get something like a Z flip.
 
 
 

Ignore this, these bottleneck calculators are generally useless. They're designed to sell parts and that's about it. 
 
I still would recommend going for 13th gen over one of those two chips you selected, 13th gen really is a lot faster than 12th gen with very similar pricing, but you can easily get by with a 13600K rather than a 13700K. Getting a 13600KF, board, and RAM is definitely possible under $600, though I'd spend a little bit more personally and get a faster RAM kit
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tfBxBj
 
As for if DDR5 is worth it, it generally has a pretty decent 1% lows uplift, especially with faster kits like 6400 CL32, so I'd consider it worth going to, but if you've already got a very high end kit of DDR4 (Samsung B die) you might as well stick to DDR4. If you don't have a B die bin though, going to DDR5, especially if you wanted more capacity anyway is the better idea. 

it's unlikely you will be able to oc a 8700k past 4.9 without a delid, basically similar performance, though not all 3600 is guaranteed 4.6

It looks like a cool board, but there's no info on what power stages EVGA is using, and there's 'only' 10 of them. For example, the Z490 Unify which is around the same price or slightly less expensive has 16 90A smart power stages with substantial heatsinks, which is basically super overkill and will run cool even with a 10900K.
If it's also on 90A power stages, it'd be a good VRM, but if it's on 60A or less it's basically worse than a $200 Gaming Edge WIFI.
Also EVGA is advertising only 4400MHz for the memory which is quite low compared to competitors at the same price, so it might not be an ideal choice for memory overclocking.
 
In short, unfortunately there's no info yet on the VRM of the FTW. It could either be good or horrible (when factoring in the price of the board), so I can't personally recommend it yet.
 
The Master also has a chipset fan, only the Aorus Xtreme doesn't, and that's a $700 board..

I mean, the HDDs aren't going to use PCIe lanes. If the SSDs are SATA, neither are they.
Everything else you listed uses USB. Again, not really a PCIe lane issue.
 

GPU is ruled out. PSU has not been replaced yet. But I thought, per the issues with the memory (1 stick vs 2 sticks of two different sets) that the problem was related to a memory controller issue? And that would be either CPU, RAM or MOBO. Since RAM and CPU check out, I thought that leaves the mobo as the only remaining option.
 
I need to weigh my options now. I am going to plan as thought its the mobo while the RMA PSU unit is in the mail. As soon as I get the PSU, I'll slap it in and double check. I will let you know if what happens.
 
Thank you so much for the help. I owe you. 

But it doesn't work; that's the main issue.

Try putting them in the media PC and see if it comes back with any errors on MemTestx86.
 
If your HDD's were doing that that brings us back to PSU but problems on the data lines could also cause ramping up/down/disconnects/reconnects. This would bring your motherboard into question.

Bad CPU memory controller or a problem with the motherboard yes. What are the chances you have a spare CPU that fits your motherboard socket and is compatible with your BIOS version?
 
If it still doesn't POST. R.I.P. motherboard. Is it still in warranty period?

Well my CH7 has displayed different things.  It used to display 24 and that code would change if I opened Ryzen Master.  Then, after BIOS updates, it displayed AA.  After more BIOS updates -- what it displays now is . . . . still AA.  
 
I'd go check out:
 
https://www.overclock.net/forum/11-amd-motherboards/1624603-rog-crosshair-vi-overclocking-thread.html
 
and pose your question to them to see what their boards say.  
 
 

Holy crap, so does my Z77A-GD65. I never noticed that.

My MSI Gaming 7 z97a board shows my CPUtemp after the bios boot codes finish up.
I see them rise and fall and are in same values as my CPU package temp while sussing apps.
 
I never set this up, it just did it from the start.
 

Depends. Each manufacturer uses different debug codes. Check your manual. Also debug codes useful for no boot scenario, not that useful after boot sequence is complete. If you were to explain your stability issues maybe we could help.

Not to put more egg on your face, but we need to know which motherboard you have.

Im pretty sure its a and e keys, those are most common for wifi. B is normally sata + pcie x2 for storage.

Well you can change the task manager to per core. Then turn the report rate to slow and just check in mid game or something.  

Its certainly not intel fanboy propaganda, its just how the cookie crumbles. For most people, spending a few hundred extra dollars on the highest end intel chip for a few % higher FPS doesn't make any sense... spend the money on a better GPU since that will make a bigger difference in FPS by far. BUT, if you already have the best GPU, then get the highest end intel chip as it will net you the best performance in games.
 
Everything is a cost benefit analysis. If someone has a 1660 GPU, they WILL without a doubt see FPS gains with a 10900k vs a Ryzen 3600. Does it make any sense to do that though? No, because the couple hundred bucks extra for that "better gaming" CPU will only get you maybe 3-5% more FPS tops, heavily dependent on resolution. But if you took that few hundred bucks and moved up to a RTX 2070, now your talking serious FPS gains... Would that RTX 2070 get more FPS on a 10900k than the 3600, yes it would. But that doesn't make the 10900k "the right CPU to buy for that person". It just depends on their use case, and what makes sense to their wallet.
 
That said, no, a 3600x will do better. Zen 2 is a solid notch better than Zen 1/1.5 which is what the 2700x is. Is it worth upgrading too, I would say no. I would wait to see how the xt does when it comes out, or wait until the end of the year (or whenever it ends up being) for the next round of CPUs from AMD. The 2700x is still a capable chip, and going from that to a 3600x doesn't make much sense, its just not worth it. I would get a 1080ti if you can afford it now, enjoy that combo through the rest of the year or even into the next year a bit, then possibly look at a 4600x when that comes out. Its all cost benefit analysis..... 2700x to 3600x on a 1080ti, at 1080p resolution I bet you would see up to a 10% performance bump, at a higher resolution like 3440x1440 for example, I bet that margin drops to 5-6%. Hopefully a 4600x would be faster enough to make that maybe a 15% bump, which is now at the point where spending the money on that CPU makes some sense.
 
For more detail on how CPU's do make a difference, here is a good resource. A good example on that chart is the Devision 2 at 1440p. That is running into a GPU bottleneck, but you can see how Ryzen just can't keep up with Intel, and it is much more apparent in CPU bound games like F1, especially at 1080p where its extremely CPU bound. https://www.gamersnexus.net/hwreviews/3587-intel-core-i9-10900k-cpu-review-benchmarks

Forget about bottleneck calculators. Whether there is a bottleneck depends on the software you're using and how GPU and/or CPU intensive it is. Condensing that into a single number is pretty much pointless.
 
Find some benchmarks for the games you want to play with the hardware you want to buy and see whether the performance is acceptable to you.

100% means lots of bottleneck
0% means no bottleneck

https://pc-builds.com/calculator/Ryzen_7_2700/GeForce_GTX_1080_Ti/0Qg0XF8A/8/

What strange time? 
$200 is about right. You might be able to get a deal closer to $175. 

They are the normal scale of used price and has been for months. Wouldn’t pay more than $200 usd myself. 

according to what I'm seeing on ebay, around 200-225$ is the usual pricing on there

My honest opinion 
I would take the blower cooler
I don't care about noise and temps with these reference cooler are not that bad 
But I would take the better raw Power and I wouldn't care about the open air Design cooler 
And not all open air coolers are good it could be a crappy one 

THAT IS A STEEEEEAL