iFreilicht

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About iFreilicht

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  1. I have, but this will be my first time drag soldering something this small. I've already watched a few tutorials on that, and I think I'll manage. It also helps that the connector has bosses that fit into holes in the PCB, so there's no risk of soldering it on crooked. Thanks for the advice though, I appreciate it
  2. If you check back every month or so, you're bound to find something you like. What custom keys are you talking about? As far as I can tell, they are all standard sizes.
  3. Well then, get over onto geekhack or massdrop and find a group buy for stuff to modify yours with
  4. That's a pretty good board and a good colour for the caps as well Too bad WASD caps are so thin, I'd definitely recommend getting a decent set of thick caps at some point.
  5. For now I am. But when time for production comes I'll do a crowdfunding campaign or group buy of sorts. Maybe I'll be able to break even, who knows? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  6. Super-mini update: Today I lay-outed, plotted and submitted for production a breakout PCB for the Iris 16 LED ring. I also ordered the necessary parts and some soldering equipment. To save money and time, I'll try to solder this one myself. Should be fun with a 20pin connector with 0.5mm pin pitch If everything goes well, the first functional prototype will be done in two weeks! Then I check whether the LEDs will be bright enough with the multiplexing method I'm using. That is the final go/no go hurdle to pass. If it works out, everything else "just needs to be done", but can pretty much be guaranteed to succeed.
  7. Great to hear! I'll do my best to make this happen as quickly as possible
  8. Update! LED rings arrived! This is what I got, plus leftover parts from the assembly line. Quite a few failed attempts it seems. That first break was so satisfying. I only broke out the unpopulated ones until I have the necessary equipment to test the others. Sides come of first. Then the top is removed and the individual PCBs are broken out. I had to use strong pliers for the little bridges between the two rows. Something I wanted to avoid: Leftover material outside the perimeter of the PCB. This means manual sanding is required before the whole unit can be assembled. I'll see whether I can fix this. Just so you get an idea of the scale. The things are fucking tiny. And this is what's left after breaking out one panel. The crossed out ones I'll keep for now, maybe I can troubleshoot the issue that caused manufacturing mishaps myself.
  9. Update! Version 0.2! Hardware is happening! Hardware: I received a notification from my manufacturer that they sent out the LED ring PCBs on Tuesday! So if all goes well I'll have something to show by the end of the weekend. Software: Version 0.2 is ready, click here to try it out! (I really wanted to make this image a gif, but I didn't manage to record it properly) Changelog: Added ability to create, edit and save Schedules, Periods and Delays Added options to modify a Cues name and Channels Revised UI a little First off, if you still remember previous updates, Cue Lists are now called Schedules, and Cue List Items are Periods. Delays are a new mechanism and the name is subject to change. To illustrate what these words mean, I marked all of them in the UI below. So as you can see, a Schedule consists of Periods, which are described by a chain of Delays. A Schedule can display very complex animations, and uses multiple Cues to do that. One Period always corresponds to one Cue, which is toggled on or off when the black line passes a Delay. If a Period has zero Delays, the Cue will always be on. This is a very effective way to describe all sorts of effects. Take a look at the example Schedules at the link above. You can make mirror gradients, bouncing dots, or turn on multiple LEDs at a time. It took a long time to implement this, but now that it's done, it seems to be a very powerful way of characterising animations and I'm quite happy with how it works. If you try the visualizer out and find any bugs, please let me know!
  10. PCB, but I'll be receiving it in a few days. This is what the whole project hinges on, as I don't know whether the LEDs will actually be bright enough the way I'm trying to multiplex them. If not, it's back to the drawing board. I'm not sure what you're referring to by "it", but you could get an adafruit vandal button like this one: https://www.adafruit.com/product/3350 It has three LEDs inside. Unfortunately, it is not compatible with the RGB LED strip headers some mainboards have today, as the button uses a common anode as opposed to the common cathode of LED strips. That's cool, go for it! Putting projects in the backlog is never fun, make it happen! If you want to keep the option of getting my button in the future, make sure to use a 16mm vandal switch now. I plan to make bigger versions as well but those will take even longer to develop, if they ever come out at all.
  11. The world of mechanical keyboards. This thread is the mechanical keyboard club, so the word "clicky" is used in the context of mechanical keyboards. Outside of this context "clicky" can indeed be interpreted as "makes a click", but in this context, "clicky" is the property of a mechanical switch. Your keyboard is not mechanical, and nobody that is involved with mechanical keyboards would consider it clicky. While criticising this attitude as elitist is justified, you have to see that we need to adhere to some definition of the word mechanical, otherwise this would just be the keyboard club. DSA Night Sky looks sweet. But I don't think I'll ever buy one of those sets unless it offers mono legends for special characters like Granite does. If I can't perfectly fit the set to my layout, I might just as well go with blanks of the same colour. EDIT: Oh shit, I just noticed that with the Alternate Kit, this would actually fit my upcoming BananaSplit buy. Goddamnit. Also, ABS caps aren't born equal. These caps are high quality and very thick. If it's worth the price is another question. Meh, it might look nice, but personally, I absolutely despise the shine on SA in terms of feel, I'd rather use the more coarsely finished Maxkey SA caps than SPs offering. The sleek surface of SA isn't really a property of ABS either, but of the mold. Unless you're talking about the additional shine that the caps get after being used for a while.
  12. Well the initial idea was to have the first prototype ready by the end of May, but I haven't even received my first prototype part yet. At this point I'd want to say by the end of the year, but that does seem a little optimistic.
  13. That doesn't count, that would mean linear switches "click" as well when you bottom out. In a mechanical keyboard, actuation occurs before bottoming out, and the switch has to click precisely when actuating. I guess the latter is fulfilled for most keyboards, but the first criterion is what's widely used to differentiate mechs from non-mechs.
  14. Cool, looks like you've found your board then Gateron Green. Much better than Cherry Greens in my opinion, but I didn't get to try Cherry Switches after they redid their tooling last year. Supposedly they are much smoother now.
  15. Do you mean 75% like the Nopoo Choc Mini? 70% would be without the column on the right, and I don't think any readily available board has that layout. But 75% is quite obtainable. The Nopoo Choc Mini from above costs a little under 100 bucks. Does that count as cheap-ish?