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About iFreilicht

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  1. Yeah maxkey SA seems tempting, they have much coarser texture than SP SA, which was my main gripe with those. But I think I'm converging more to lower profile boards, so SA is a little counter-productive in that regard
  2. Update! Visualizer 0.1 release and lookout on online configurator! Today, I proudly present version 0.1 of the Freilite Iris Visualizer, an online tool to try out potential configurations. This version is by no means final, but it's a good framework for testing what's possible and what isn't with the data format I'm planning to use. (Big thanks to XeaLouS for his ideas on this!) As usual, feedback of any kind is very welcome! In the future, this will be extended into an online configurator tool, so you won't have to install any software to modify the animations. More on that below. Basic functionality: TL;DR: Just try it out, it's fun! On the left, you can see the live preview, on the right is the configuration UI, where you can modify Cues. Cues consist of multiple parameters that define how the LEDs change colour and are the basic building blocks of animations. In the future, you'll be able to chain multiple Cues together into Cue Lists. Right now, only a single cue can be displayed at any given time. The parameters of each Cue are as follows (more will follow in the future): Start Color: Colour each LED will start its transition at. End Color: Colour each LED will end its transition at.The hue of this colour is capped at 359° in the visualiser to make it easier to achieve the rainbow animation you can see above. Duration: Time one full cycle of the animation will take. When the Time Divisor is lowered, this value should be increased to keep the same velocity. Time Divisor: Describes the value the Duration is divided by to calculate the temporal offset between neighbouring LEDs. Basically, this means that each LED counterclockwise of its neighbour will reach the End Colour earlier by (Duration/Time Divisor). This means that if a single dot is displayed, you can just reduce the Time Divisor to 6 to see two dots, 4 to see three dots and so on. Ramp Type: Specifies how the transition between Start Color and End Color is calculated. Currently, there are only three options. They are explained below. Ramp Parameter: Changes the behaviour of the Ramp Type. The basic concept is that it changes which time the "peak" of the functions happens at, but the practical implications are different for each Ramp Type. Reverse: Self explanatory. The three Ramp Types are explained below. In the future, they will be illustrated in the Visualizer to make them easier to understand. Linear HSL: Moves on a linear path through the HSL colourspace, first from the Start Color to the End Color, and then back. I recommend this for most scenarios, especially when transitioning between two colours. The Ramp Parameter in this case specifies the position of the "peak" of the transition function. When it is 1, an LED will jump down to the Start Color immediately after reaching the End Color. When it is 0.5, it will take equal time to transition forth and back. Try it out to see if you can tell the difference! If you're coming from a music background, you can also think of it as the ratio between attack and release if decay and sustain are both 0. Linear RGB: Included for comparisons sake. In some cases this will also look better when transitioning between a regular colour and black or white. The Ramp Parameter has no effect in version 0.1, I just couldn't get it to work properly. Jump: Just jumps from Start Color to End Color and then back down. Very simple effect, I'm personally not really a fan of it, but it can look quite cool with a Ramp Parameter of 0.5 and lower Time Divisors. The Ramp Parameter works similarly as before, but it effectively changes the width of the spinning dot. Wow, that was quite a bit of information. So, where will this go in the future? Future Online configurator: In the future, you will be able to download an animation you've designed on the Visualizer as a .hex file. The Iris 16 will be acting as a Mass Storage device similar to an SD card or Flash drive. To load the animation onto it, you simply open it in your file manager and copy the .hex file directly onto it. This means that you will not need to install any additional software and that the Iris 16 will be usable on every OS on the planet, no matter how obscure. Additionally, none of this will be required after setting the button up once. All animations are stored on the Iris 16 itself, so even when putting it in a different machine, all the animations will be just where they were. It will also be possible to upload a previously stored animation to modify it again. This means that you need no online account and don't have to enable cookies to save animations. And, you can share them with others in any way imaginable. Via e-mail, Pastebin, Google drive, even morse code if you're so inclined. Makes you wonder why not more companies do it this way. Thanks for reading and have fun breaking my software! I'll implement downloading animations as soon as possible so you can start sharing your ideas.
  3. That I would imagine, at least compared to sculpted profiles like Cherry or DCS. I wonder how much difference there is between between these and DSA or XDA.
  4. Ah sorry I didn't see this question before. Others have mentioned blacks, but those are actually not as heavy as they are made out to be. Here's a complete list of all flavours of Cherry MX switches. You can see that the actuation force of the MX Black is only 60cN, which is a little less than MX Clear at 65cN. This is due to the linear action of the switch, there is no peak in force before actuation. My recommendation would be Green (80cN) or Clear if you're going for a consumer board, those are readily available for many boards. MX Whites (Clicky at 80cN, so quite similar to Green in terms of force) are not so easy to get but available in some places. In a work environment, I'd recommend going with the Clears if you can. If you want to go all out and build a board yourself, you could also try to get your hand on Linear or Tactile Greys, which are normally used for the spacebar on boards with blacks or browns/clears, respectively. Those switches are hard to come by, but they have 80cN activation force like Greens, so if you try out clears or blacks and feel they are not heavy enough, grey may be your best bet. As @lw88 said, to use those switches it's best to get a modular board if you don't want to build one yourself. However, if you do want to DIY, you could also get normal switches and do a spring swap to make them heavier. Oh right, the stem of Romers really helps with light leakage. As @Ridska asked for a minimal look, the G810 seems like the best option. What might also work is to paint the plate of a regular keyboard with some Black 2.0, which absorbs almost all light in the visible spectrum. Looks awesome, are those keys G20? How does typing feel with them?
  5. Something like that doesn't exist to my knowledge, because it is very hard to close the gaps between the caps. Maybe it would be possible to design a 3D-printable shield that goes over the switch and prevents light from leaking out. Or you could cut all the caps down and design a CNC-milled insert that converted an existing keyboard to something like a chiclet-style keyboard. In any case, quite hard things to do, which is probably why no board like this exists. If you want to go minimalist with LED lighting, you could also use thick, black, blank keycaps that don't allow any light to bleed through, or you could not light the top of the board at all and go for underglow instead.
  6. Even the advantage of switch top removal is only there in comparison to boards with plates that don't allow switch opening. Many DIY kits and universal plates (with support for MX and Alps) already allow switch removal, though that is not the case for any mass produced keyboard at this point, I believe. But, I wouldn't say there are a lot of disadvantages to PCB mount either. Some people prefer the feel of not having a stiff plate, though I believe that is a minority, and PCB mount saves on material and thus cost. But you're absolutely correct that most PCB mount keyboards are mostly DIY boards, not mass marketed consumer boards. If you can solder or have a friend who can, opening up the board and replacing that switch would be enough. You wouldn't even necessarily have to buy a new one, you could just swap it with one where you don't care about chatter, like PrintScreen or ScrollLock.
  7. I am fairly certain that those are plate mounted, that board has a low profile case. If they were PCB mount, you could easily open the switch top, but looking at the pictures now, that doesn't seems to be possible without desoldering. If you look long enough, that might be your best bet then. Yeah especially Apple Keyboards are known for their lack of a Windows key Well the linear XMIT boards were all at least 100$ as well and are said to be 150$ in the future, so you're not really saving money with that. They also had a few quality issues but that was sorted out quite well from what I've heard.
  8. Ideally, you should use caps similar to the ones you'll be using on your planned keyboard. Thicker keycaps will weigh more and thus the switch will feel lighter. But if you just want a general idea, cheap caps are absolutely fine. Does it have Cherry MX Browns or clones of some sort? You might want to look into either getting a board with Gateron Browns, which are much less scratchy than Cherries, or opening your switches to lube the stems. There are no currently available cheap boards with alps switches. The only manufacturer who still makes stock boards with Alps mount switches is Matias, and while their mechanical boards are affordable, they certainly aren't cheap to buy. Your only other options to get Alps are vintage boards like the AEK2 or getting a kit to build an alps keyboard yourself. But really, if it's just the scratchiness, try out lubing. Yeah I feel like Dell had particularly bad rubber domes. The ones on my Sidewinder X6 are still pretty good, even after using Gateron Browns for a long time.
  9. Never saw a build in a Moon Light Mods case before, this is looking awesome! How's your plan for the tubing and coolant? Hard, soft, transparent, opaque?
  10. Aytex' suggestions are good, but none of them are actually in the TKL form factor, more like 65% and 60%. Going from his suggestions, if you need arrow keys, I'd recommend going with a 65% like the Magicforce 68 (which is a very good keyboard in general) or building a 60% yourself to include arrows. If you do indeed want a real TKL board to get the full nav-cluster and arrows, you should take a look at the Masterkeys Pro S or see whether you can get a QuickFire Rapid (now discontinued). The cool thing about the QFR is that you can exchange the controller to make it programmable. Either of those boards are well built. They are a little bigger than Aytex' suggestions, however. There are of course other TKLs, but if you want a good board for the price, Cooler Master is a very solid choice. If you're on a budget, I'd go for the Lioncast LK20.
  11. You can design a set yourself and have it manufactured by maxkeyboards pretty cheaply: http://www.maxkeyboard.com/products/cherry-mx-keycap/custom-backlight-keycap/
  12. scartch build

    Looks awesome! I really like the acrylic I/O covers that you did, never seen those before.
  13. I wouldn't say that. Cherry were the inventor and sole provider of these switches for quite some time. Companies like Gateron only produce clone switches with MX stems since Cherry's patent ran out. So Cherry has a certain (deserved) reputation, but that has little to do with fanboys but more with the fact that companies that put Cherry switches in their boards actively advertise that while companies that have clones inside will just say "mechanical switches" in the advertisement material and only mention the actual brand in the specs. Sure, some people will argue that Cherry has higher quality in general, but that argument has little actual proof if any, and that group of people is very small. Some of the perceived fandom around Cherry switches also comes from vintage switches like vintage blacks or nixdorfs which have been actively used and are thus much smoother than factory-new switches. As cherry clones only started being made a few years ago, non-cherry vintage switches with MX stems simply don't exist. You do of course have vintage alps, but those are a separate beast. Also, many people actually prefer the feel of Cherry switches over other brands when blind-testing, so it just comes down to preference.
  14. Those aren't MX Browns, they're Kahil Browns. If you care about consistency, stay away from that brand.
  15. Well in that case you should consider a spring swap in the Silent Red. See whether you can find out what springs come close to the Nature Whites, and get those.