Rovillalob

This program is just what I was looking for as I can't control my fans via BIOS. Still I have a problem with my CPU fan. I'm using a MSI h110m gaming motherboard with an AIO water cooling. The pump is conected to Sys Fan1, the CPU fan to CPU Fan1 (there is no CPU Fan2) and my additional case fan to Sys Fan2. I can control whatever fan is conected to Sys Fan2 (Case fan) but not when conected to CPU Fan1. It doesnt matter the value I set it's allways running at or near 1630 RPM. In case this helps to set something up: The case fan is a 4 wire fan and the CPU fan is a 3 wire fan. Both are the same size so I should be able to plug the 4 wire one to the CPU radiator and use the 3 wire one as case fan.

Kinda but no, I decided to change my keyboard for a wireless one to have more free space on my desk when needed. So I'm not dealing with keyboard lights because I dont have them anymore. Next time we should check if the keyboard comes with software to change those things.

All of a sudden the display won't turn off when I lock the screen nor when I wait more than 30 seconds (it will turn off for less than a second and then back on again), except when it's charging (USB charger or connected to PC). Also, there are two notifications that cycle constantly: USB Connector Disconnected and USB Connector Connected. Both problems started at the same time. I haven't installed new apps nor changed the settings. Things that I tried: Going through settings checking stuff (including the ones hidden under developer, I'm no android expert so I might have skipped a helping option) Using third party tools (Wakelock detector or something like that) to see if there is an app forcing this but it detects nothing. Starting in safe mode Uninstalling third party apps (Whatsapp, spotify and so on) Cleaning the usb port with rubbing alcohol Hard reboot (twice) After the first hard reboot I had no issues for a few moments, then the problem came back. I belived that some program was doing that and in that time (between no problem and the problem starting again) it got installed or updated (I have a list of what got updated/installed). Then I did a second hard reboot witout logging into Google nor installing samsung apps and had the same issue again. I have the feeling that it's not an app, but something about that Connected/Disconneted cycle. I really hope thats it's not a hardware problem, getting tech support in the middle of a quarantine won't be easy.

Tried using Blue Monitor but it's not user friendly (or I'm too dim to understand it) so I had no luck. Any recomended apps for that?

I have a Samsung A20s and it's acting kinda weird, mostly when it comes to conectivity. I started noticing that my wifi signal wasn't as strong as it should be (I loose signal where other phones and devices can just breeze through internet). And it became really noticeable when I tried to connect to bluetooth devices, but depending on the device is the problem I have. For example, I have no problem connecting to my speakers, but if I pair my cellphone to the cars bluetooth and then unpair it, I have to restart the phone, otherwise I get a "Connection Error" message. With "unpair" I mean manually deactivating bluetooth or turning the car off. Also, if I try to pair with my notebook I get the "Connection Error" message every single time. I also have the feeling that my 4G signal goes up and down in some places but that usually happens when I'm alone so I cannt compare with another phone. Bluetooth is my biggest problem right now as I use it quite a lot for work. Another funny thing that it does is that it restarts itself when I charge it (using the original charger and cable). It only does it once per charge cycle. I havn't experimented to pinpoint what the problem is, its not really a problem (for now). I really hope to find a solution without having to set the phone to factory settings. TL;DR: Big problem: Wireless connections are funky. Little problem: Phone restarts while charging (but only once per charge cycle).

Afterburner shows 50-65°C for CPU and 45-60 for GPU under load and 50°C CPU and 40°C GPU when idle.

I live in Chile and Noctua fans are pretty rare and right now the stores that have them are out of stock. Guess I'll go cooler master for the 4-pin i5-6500 at stock speed, Zotac GTX 1660 Ti, MSI H110M Gaming, 16 GB DDR4 @3300 mhz. Temps are good, Speccy shows 30ºC while ildle and 60 under load for both CPU and GPU. Probably the fan is not necesary for temps but it usefull to force air intake through the dust filter.

I want to replace my 120mm case fan because it's pretty loud. The fan came with the case (some cheap ass case I found) and the only connector it has is molex so its always on full power (i think). Anyway my only options are COOLER MASTER MASTERFAN SF120R RGB and CASE FAN THERMALTAKE RIING 120MM. I dont care about the RGB, all I want is a somewhat silent and reliable fan. My MOBO (MSI H110M Gaming) has 2 4-pin SYSFAN connectos so I guess power is not a problem. My major concern is that the Thermaltake one comes with a 3 Pin + LNC (Low-Noise Cable) and I have no idea what that cable is (google is not helping). Which would you recommend?

As far as I can tell, there is no software. I better just get used to it.

My keyboards (Cooler Master Devastator 2) default key to switch on and off the back light is the scroll lock key. The problem is that I use excel and that key changes what the arrow keys do. Is there a way to change the default key? Running Win 10 Pro.

But that is only for the start up, it won't protect my files once the phone started. What im looking for is some program that encrypts files/folders and allows me to decrypt them when I need them.

Hello there, I'm looking for a safe way to store files in my Samsung J7, I used AppLock until I realized that all it did was to hide the files and not encrypt them. I only know of EDS but have no idea if it is really good/reliable/safe (I would use the free version). I use VeraCrypt on PC and was looking for something like that on android (v8.1). Do you know any app that does that?

My Samsung J7 is acting weird and I want to back up the things I have before I reset it to factory. My only problem is that there are some files that I cant find, and the program that I used to create such files crashes the moment I try to open it (I have been trobleshooting it for a long time, I gave up). I cant find the files with androids device manager, third party programs or good old plug to PC and search manually. Best thing I could think about was using WinDirStat as it works really well on PC drives to find files based on size. So my next problem started: WinDirStat wont show the phone on its list. I guess that it's because windows wont assign a drive letter (such as E:) to a cellphone as it would do to any other USB drive. The attached image shows what I mean. Is there a way to force WinDirStat to look for it? Or a way to assign a letter to the cellphone? Maybe another program build to do that?

Thank you for the answers! I bought the crucial MX500. I dont have a M.2 slot, my MOBO is pretty basic.

So I need a new SSD, the problem is which one to buy. Until now I have always preferred WD (Blue) over others, but I found a Seagate barracuda (both 500gb) that is ~10% cheaper. Should I go with Seagate? Crucial is the cheapest but speed/quality might not be the same. The contenders are: Western Digital Blue 3D NAND 500 GB at at U$91.30 Seagate Barracuda 500 GB (STGS500401) at U$84.00 Kingston UV500 480 GB (SUV500/480G) at U$80.00 Crucial MX500 500 GB (CT500MX500SSD1) at U$74.30 Any advise?

The 256 gb NVMe WD SSD costs the same as the SATA mx500 500 gb SSD. The intel 660p 512 gb is 30% more expensive and kinda over my budget. So I will go for the mx500 as the extra storage will eventually be usefull and the speed difference isn't that big for my use. I will look into this, thanks.

These are the dual configurations according to the manual: 256 GB PCIe NVMe TLC M.2 SSD + 1 TB (7200 rpm) 9.5 mm 128 GB SATA Value SSD + 1 TB (7200 rpm) 9.5 mm 128 GB SATA Value SSD + 2 TB (5400 rpm) 9.5 mm/7.2 mm 128 GB PCIe NVMe TLC M.2 SSD + 1 TB (7200 rpm) 9.5 mm 128 GB PCIe NVMe TLC M.2 SSD + 2 TB (5400 rpm) 9.5 mm/7.2 mm As you can see, the highest SATA drive I should use is 128 gb. And 128 is not near the minimum I need (that would be 256, and that is still a small drive) The supported models are not even available in my country so I need to import them and that is expensive. I might not work because HP decided that there is a list of drives that are compatible. I don't know if a fresh install is possible with an OEM OS given that it will be in another drive.

So I want to upgrade my notebook by adding a m.2 NVMe ssd drive, the notebook is a Pavilion Power Laptop 15-cb0xx (no idea the last two digits, but I belive thats irrelevant). The thing is that there is a list of 3 "trusted" drives (256 GB PCIe - 847109-020; 128 GB PCIe - 912322-007 and 128 GB M.2 2280 SATA-3 - 827560-052) in the notebooks manual. I want to buy the Western Digital Black 250 GB (WDS250G2X0C) NVMe SSD and move OS and files to this drive (this is my secondary machine, so there is not a lot on it). My questions are: Is that WD SSD compatible with my notebook? Will I be able to boot from it? I asked in the HP forum but they wont tell me given that the drive is not in their trusted list.

What do you mean with normal font? I haven't changed that, isnt the default font the normal one? System: Intel i5-6500 MOBO: MSI h110m gaming PSU: EVGA 430W 80Plus OS: Win 7 Pro x64

Is coil whine permanent once it starts? Sometimes it starts when the frames drop but once they get stable it continuous

Some weeks ago I moved to a new place, while moving I dropped the cpu (the whole computer is IN a desk so I had to dismantle it completely) but it looks fine (maybe a little bent, but i'm not sure if that's new). Now in the new place I get some random reboots while using the PC, especially while gaming. I noticed that just before it happens everything freezes for a short period (1 or 2 seconds). Its not a windows reboot, it just looks like a voltage dip strong enough to shutdown the pc. The thing is that I have a ps4 on the same house circuit and I have no problems with the console. How do I proceed? I will monitor the temps but until now they look fine. I also have static noise problems and it might be related, this is the link

While playing games I get a static sound that adds to the normal game sounds, its not always there but once it starts all I can do to stop it is to close the game and open it again. I experienced it while playing Path of Exile and Deus Ex Mankind Divided and its not just sound, I get some unstable frame times and sometimes frame drops (both measured with the in-game measures from PoE).I also get some random pc shutdowns. I noticed that just before it happens everything freezes for a short period (1 or 2 seconds). This is the link, System: Win 7 pro x64 I5-6500 Gtx 950 (MSI) Drivers are updated

I was wondering why are CPUs always working even if it looks like its doing nothing. Lets say I start the pc in safe mode with no internet conection, what is the cpu doing if I dont do anything with it? Right now my video card is under low load (no games or other heavy programs runing) and the fans are still but the fans on the CPU are always spinning. I guess my real question is: why can the GPU do that but not the CPU?

It worked, thanks

I used to have my windows default dowload folder (the one thats usually in C:\User\MyUsername) on my secondary drive (E:). Today I installed a new drive (D:) and decided to move everything there (the old one was a HDD and it got updated to a SSD). As I moved stuff I had to move the dowload folder by right clicking on it, then properties, location and changing it. The problem is that I didnt select a folder but the whole drive (the path is D:\ instead of D:\Downloads). Now under C:\User\MyUsername there is a shortcut to D: and I cant change that, if I go to properties the normal drive properties open. The big question is, how do I change the path of the default dowload folder without the folder?