Chiru

Anyway he is quite adamant trying the MSR7 he also wants to use them in the gym and outdoors. Also he is very picky about the looks and its the only headphone he doesnt find terribly ugly. He will send em back if he doesnt like them. Seems everything is settled but it was also nice for me to dig back in to the headphone world, after i bought my Fostex THX-00x purplehearts i didnt really look at headphones anymore. Thx everyone.

I just realized i completly mispelled. What i actually wanted to ask was if in your opinion and general consensous the DT 880 250 and 600 ohm variant is better than the Audio Technica ATH-AD700X, i have no idea why i wrote AD600x. He decided to go for the Audio Technica ATH-MSR7 but now he is having second thoughts, his concern is that the headphones won't have enough bass and are too bright sounding. What do you think? I'd also like to know if a headphone is brighter sounding, does it mean that it's less bassy and more trebly? What about the AKG K712 pro? for 230 bucks.

Yes i know but the problem his most of his budget is on amazon as coupon. So needs to be from Amazon I found the Philips Audio Fidelio X2HR/00 fit perfectly into his budget. Any opinions?

do the DT880 in 250ohm and 600ohm version sound better than the AT600x in your opinion/general consensous?

and DT880 250ohm version?

Sorry, i just noticed now that there was one 0 too many in the title, so 220 usd not 2200 He doesn't have DAC+AMP, he plugs them into his gaming PC. I am not sure if a modern motherboard has enough power for 600ohm. WHat do you think?

Sorry, i just noticed now that there was one 0 too many in the title, so 220 usd not 2200

Yo A gamer friend of mine is looking for a pair of headphones budget max 280usd available one amazon (EU). Any suggestions? Audio Technica ATH-AD700X comes to mind Fostex T50rp He is leaning towards the Beyerdynamic DT880 which in the Z Reviews sounded crap to me.

They are PWM, they could even run at 10%

Hey recently for whatever reason, whenever i start my PC one of the two CPU fans spins at 100%, i have a fan profile in Asus Ai suite 3, all my fans are set to run at 40% speed until cpu reaches 75 degrees (which never happens). All my fans run as they are supposed to, except that one fan. If i just move one node in the grap by a tiny bit and click apply, then move it back to 40% the fan stays that way. But as soon as i restart my PC, he keeps spinning at 100% again until i adjust it again manually. What to do?

Hey i just contacted Khadas about your suggestion, the verified it with their engineers and said it would work! Thanks a lot!

Hey Have you considered a lavalier microphone? You can just clamp it on to your t shirt when you needed it or even better keep it clamped to your headphone cable. these are the most popular ones in your price range: PowerDewise adapter and 200cm extension cable included £25.77 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Professional-Microphone-Omnidirectional-Recording-Conference/dp/B01AG56HYQ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=1WXHWI7TI3GLY&keywords=powerdewise&qid=1563895980&s=gateway&sprefix=powerde%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExSEVETjFDVjU4SFRDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTAyOTQ1MTJUREpFTDk1VE9KOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwMzAxMTE3VDFaQ0VFSlM1NFFRJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfYXRmJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ== Purple Panda adapter and 300cm extension cable included £25.99 has a slightly smaller clip that PowerDevise https://www.purplepandastore.com/products/purple-panda-lavalier-microphone-kit https://www.amazon.co.uk/Purple-Panda-Lavalier-Lapel-Microphone/dp/B07D6SD2NK/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=purple+panda&qid=1563896255&s=gateway&sr=8-3 Røde SmartLav+ that's the one i have, it has a smaller clamp made out of steel, for me that was worth the extra money but the cable is very short (115 cm), no extension icable included, i just plugged it iin to the front jack of my PC case £56.99 https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rode-Smartlav-Lavalier-Microphone-Adaptor/dp/B01BVTMVMI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=smart+lav+%2B&qid=1563896340&s=gateway&sr=8-5 Shure motiv MVL/A, also short cable (130cm) 48 pounds https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shure-MVL-Microphone-high-quality-microphone/dp/B010W6WESM Note that for the Shure you will need an adapter from TRRS to TRS https://www.amazon.co.uk/RØDE-SC3-iPhone-Accessory-Black/dp/B00L6C8PNU/ref=sr_1_16?crid=2UC0XFJFSA5TS&keywords=rode+smart+lav%2B&qid=1563895063&s=gateway&sprefix=rode+smar%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-16 My 2cents if you have no preference in how they sound and dont care about clip size, get the purple panda Here is how they sound

Oh nice, thanks. It will be hard to solder the cable that it only touches the correct pins, so that it only touches the pins in the back and not in the front. Maybe i could even solder the USB-B connector there

I showed it to my step-father, he said it's impossible to do. The pins are so small, it's practically impossible to solder by hand, even the solder pencil is larger than the pins. It looks big on the pictures, but in reality it's super small, impossible to do by hand. So either adapter or USB-C cable.

But if yeah i will keep it in mind, i am grateful for the advice. another thing my cable is USB 2.0, would my DAC run fine anyway?

but a usb 3.0 cable doesnt have 9 wires inside

But a USB 3.0 cable has 4 or 5 conductors?

i was wondering, if USB type-C has 24 pins and USB type-A has 4 and a cable has on one side USB type-A and on the other end USB type-C connector. That would mean that 20 pins are not connected to any conductors, just like placeholders, right? That means if you would solder the 4 USB-A conductors directly on the PCB of the device with a USB-C connector, the device would work anyway and therefore the other 20 pins are basically inactive/useless? Am i correct?

So the best mod would be simply to solder the cable on the PCB? That would be even better than using an USB-C cable that would of the same quality than my USB tybe-B cable, or am i wrong?

Increased number of metal interfaces (negation/less benefit from hypotehtical benefits of the cable, correct?) if i use an adapter or even if i solder the type-B connector running the jumpers down directly to the C pads ergo? No i never soldered and i would be a fool to try it on this. However, my "stepfather" is an electrical engineer and worked for Philips, that was a long time ago when most things were still done by hand. So he is an excellent solderer and generally very gifted in doing this type of work which require precision and finesse. He also built custom electrical devices including amplifiers for people. Only drawback is technology is a bit different than back then, SMD and what not, and he doesn't know USB-C obviously, he doesn't even own a computer. I didn't have the chance yet of showing it to him, wanted to gather information myself first

Look i will put it down in a very simple way. The internet is split in to 5 main opinions regarding digital cables: 1. All cables are snake oil (including analog), the only thing that matters is the construction quality (last a long time) and are practical to use. 2. Analog cables make a difference, but power and digital don't. 3. Analog and power cables make a difference, but digital don't. 4. All cables matter 5. I don't know and/or don't care You are part of the third category, i am part of of the 4th with exception that i cannot say for sure if digital matters until i have tried and if there won't be a difference it won't be a loss because i can resell it for same or higher price very easily. My point is, some agree with you, some don't, doesn't mean that you are right hoiwever. For instance, i talked to a couple of amp builders and other people who work in the audio field, they belonged to the 5th category (i don't know) category, because they have never tried. So i don't think you should jump and make fun at someone because he is willing to give it a try.

You are using Chord clearway XLR cables which cost 190USD, that is as much as my USB cable and my better RCA cables put together. Then you are using NRGY-3 power cables which cost 109, that's how much i payed for my muuuuch better PS Audio cable which retails for 700+USD. Not to mention your power conditioner, you don't believe in electrical noise/interferance and you buy a power conditioner Also you spent wooping 2300 dollars for a freaking DAC and not even a good one, you spent 2300+ USD on a dac which doesn't even sound better than a Khadas Tone Board which costs 23 times less and sounds pretty much the same. Stop judging other people when you overpayed for everything. Not micro B, normal "B" That means to desolder the USB-C connector first right? Is that harder to do with solidcore conductors?

It's used for power and digital signal

Bro, my question wasn't if USB cables matters or not besides that your statement is wrong, but like i said that's not the point of the discussion. I am just interested if it's possible to do what i have in mind.

Hello would this be possible? I know many people here don't believe in fancy USB cables, so no need to open that debate, i prefer not to use an adapter because they might decrease sound quality, most of them are very cheaply made, besides that i can't find any.