GanstaKingofSA

Temps in load are like mid 70 C. I remember that being a troubleshooting measure and could try though weird how HDMI gets worn like that if its the case

So I currently was playing Red Dead Redemption 2 on my PC with a 9900K and 2080 Ti and well I started to notice that the game's shadows we're glitching out and was causing my main display to black out (not my 2nd one) and come back to RDR2. I did notice the launch icon on my 2nd screen pop out and pop back in when it does this and I even went as far to go back to stock and change the mV of my undervolt for the game and it still happens out of nowhere. I feel either the NVIDIA drivers are borked by GeForce Experience, or the game got corrupted or that my card is finally giving up the ghost. What's weird is that with my undervolt and normal use, it behaves well in GTA, Minecraft, and a few other titles but RDR2 it never has happened till now. Any troubleshooting tips?

Might ask in the university chat though the reason I am getting one is cause my Computer Teacher recommends to get one and use the University one as a last case scenario probably cause of the print lines at school

Since I am entering college, I know some of the colleges require students to pay per print using their printers. IDK if mine does it so I went ahead and decided to browse for a printer to avoid it. I wanted to know what Printer Manufacturers you all recommended for general printing of text files (very few image prints) and scanning. I'm mainly looking used like in FBMK and not new but wanted to know what manufacturers most recommend or get since I see Epson then Canon apart from HP and Dell at times. I'm mainly looking at a guy selling a HP OfficeJet Pro 8600 Printer for 60 which the ink I could get for 20 via a few aftermarket places since I only know HP well for their prints compared to Canon and such. I did use a Canon printer but there isnt scan function and for some reason i feel the touch interface is needed.

I meant the glass panel on the screen not the lcd itself unless that also applies

So when I was fixing a broken left key, on my laptop, i poured on accident a bit of super glue to my display which left a smear on my display. Anyone knows how to remove super glue from a LCD?

Here's a thought since you did that compensator build and the old but expensive at the time computer part videos. Why not make a Mini (inefficient and why the hell would you buy this) compensator. It would go like this 1. Buy the most expensive APU CPU processor that is out that is unlocked either Intel with their HD or AMD with Ryzen and Vega (Latest Gen though and your pick whether Vega or Intel UHD) such as R5 3400G or similar for Intel 2. Buy the best motherboard on the market that supports said APU and allows OC of the CPU and maybe even GPU in BIOS (unless using Intel XTU or AMD Ryzen Master or if it works with MSI Afterburner) [X570 or Z390?] and can max out the RAM slots and RAM capacity of it (max I read is 64 GB so won't be 256 GB like Compensator 3 or 128 like the original 2 but should still be it 3. Get the fastest compatible DDR4 on the market that you can attempt to RAM OC or not and leave it on XMP. DDR4-2933 from what I read in Dual-Channel Mode but y'all the techies. 4. No GPU. You are only running the APU but throw a Titan Xp if people go "But Linus, what about Mini compensator with a Titan or 2080 Ti Linus" 5. Water. Cooling. Water-cool that son of a APU. We want as much OC we can get or as low temps we can go (hell throw in the Chiller) 6. Make it look fancy and RGB like similar to Compensator or something LTT themed or showcasing why the hell not to buy a APU and water cool gear and OC the crap of the CPU and APU chip and get a GPU and real CPU 7. All else the same, NVME, same title testing as always or like Compensator 3 8. Noctua fans pls. jk 9. Explain why this is not a good build to do but it was just to experiment if you had a burning pocket to do so, (what would you get and at what equal match performance to actual hardware?) Hope this idea gets considered in the writer room.

oop. well rip me.

Welp. This thread is now dead by me

I just wiped it with Gnome-Disk in Manjaro and made it Fat32 and it shows up in the BIOS if its ina clean state. Unetbootin isn't available on Arch for some odd reason and SUSE is the one that comes with Manjaro. Weird is that the Windows USB that I used to install Windows works if the image is Windows but FreeNAS goes nope on it. Same with the other usb and all are 32 GB USBs. Difference being one is USB2 and other USB3. I even re-downloaded the FreeNAS image to make sure it ain't corrupted, flash it to my Windows USB, plug it in and same boot lockup with my keyboard not lighting up but does when it's disconnected

I tried other USBs now and still to no success. Did the same in Rufus and dd in Manjaro and Windows but any time I try to plug in the USB, the BIOS hangs like if it doesn't like booting FreeBSD or FreeNAS at all but can do like Ubuntu Server and all that. I don't get it how this system does not like FreeNAS at all. My last resort is PXE but I yet dunno how to make a PXE server run the FreeNAS installer just fine. I could maybe use a USB as a boot USB onto my system but that doesn't seem like it might work still. Any clues still?

I wanted to repurpose an old system to install a NAS system on it. Anytime I plug in my FreeNAS USB to the PC, when it boots, it hangs the entire system up no matter what and doesn't when the system normally boots into Windows. It has the latest BIOS, and any other Linux USB that I use except for FreeNAS boots (even a EFI only Windows USB where it says I need to use a BIOS only USB) but FreeNAS won't. I don't know if I should try PXE LAN, or whatnot. This USB I used to install Manjaro on my main system and FreeNAS actually boots in my main rig but not the other way around. Any ideas as to how to get it installed? And no, I don't have a CD to sacrifice to write a FreeNAS image on it.

So I been searching online for a while to learn how to make a VM appear to be real with like CPU, BIOS, and such to look like my system however this one software I need is very picky over running in VM. I don't want a lot of my data to be sent to Microsoft so I am on Manjaro, and now since we need to do online tests, my Advanced Placement (AP) test is now using Respondus' Lockdown Browser but unknown if it's monitoring the webcam and mic which is a no-no for me for this. Of course I can cancel it for free and get my money back but I want to see if I can still take it but have it be encased in a non-personal identifiable data machine that appears like my own. This is so far of my QEMU list that I have: https://pastebin.com/tpwUHjnw As you can see I already replicated my BIOS settings to be like my real PC for this VM and done the Error 43 Patch. However my CPU still registers as Intel Core Skylake than Core i9-9900K and such. Don't know if VirtIO has to do with this too so I am asking any KVM people who do this for like malware or picky software to see if they can help replicate my main PC as I can to get it working on other software and this maybe. Thanks!

I been enjoying folding and gaming at the same time. Had to turn off Turbo for my 9900K (till my D14 arrives) and undervolt/power restrain my 2080 Ti but I think this is a very worthwhile experience. I just wished colleges would see this as community service or volunteer hours :p. Also for all the time folding top 4k on the team so far whoop whoop! Go go Turing and Coffee. More produce.

Folding around low-mid-70s with all off. Enabling Turbo for some reason on my board makes the CPU do MCE even when it's off to a higher frequency at the same temps as MCE on and Enhanced Turbo.

When the GPU is not folding is 40 C idle. But that 80 C of the GPU really radiates it to 80. I am thinking of changing paste too but should decide front or rear first. I do have clearance for push only at the front and by Bitwit and GamersNexus on case rad placement, may go front for benefit.

While I wait to get a deal for a NH-D14, I wanted to see where I can mount my rad for best cooled temps. It is a Asetek generic 120mm rad that my prebuilt gave me from my dad's purchase for a 9900K but I really don't like high temps from the rear at turbo (70 C idle when GPU folding by the heat in the case). I watched Bitwit's radiator mounting video and it appears front gives better cooling and not much difference on GPU so I want to mount it there but on the LTT Discird they keep telling me to put back on the rear. Here are before and after of it. I don't want to OC it but have cooler temps when Idle doing folding and such.

Yep, exactly that one. It's a off brand so dunno but looked H60 to me

MSI normally keeps it all core turbo for some reason in BIOS where all goes to 5 GHz but with folding it's a concern hitting 80 C with the GPU running only and higher out of 90C. Was thinking of like a D15 but since my case is NZXT S340 it would be a very tight fit referring to this forum post on fitting one to the case with some fan pushing and installing the fan at the back than front cause Geil EVO X is a bigger heatspreader.

So I been folding and gaming for a while but I thin I want to plan out a upgrade for my prebuilt machine. A family member got it with the parts I wanted except the cooling though he said he got the upgrades for free when configuring it. It looks like a 120mm like a NZXT Kraken or Corsair H60 (iBuyPower so I know they use some NZXT parts) cooling a i9-9900K on a S340. While gaming, I can see the CPU spike up to 80's when at Turbo and idles around high 30s-low to mid 40s and while CPU folding all the way to 90 and even 100 C where I have to turn off MCE and Turbo Boost (MSI I guess swets Turbo Boost as MCE on all cores, again he doesn't know computers) and fold at mid-high 70s when loaded up all 16 cores or high 60s with half cores folding. Since I feel not comfortable at 90 when folding or 80 C I want to see what budget CPU Air Coolers I can get since Air I can see if the fan dies than a pump by software easily unless it has a flow meter, and that 120mm AIOs are beaten by beefy air coolers. I been only looking at Noctua and beQuiet for the search since LTT and others cover their coolers a lot and do a lot of good performance but IDK if I am missing other possible brands that are as good as Noctua/beQuiet. Thanks!

So far from what I been testing is that Microsoft either changed where the dll for bootres is when loading Windows or that they blocked it out after Version 1607. Been still seeing in my free time what to do but the old method of my post only goes up to 1607 i.e Windows 10 Anniversary.

Other USBs work fine and this is a new install of the software. Im just confused how the chip in the USB thinks its read only and no there is no USB lock. Malware I already scanned it with Defender and says nothing on the system

So anytime I try to plug in a USB to my VM and try to work on it, sometimes the VM does something weird. I dunno what but so far it has managed to kill 2 new drives and a old one I bought off Amazon or make it think that it hit a error/end of life and lock into read only. I tried destroying MBR, formatting with Diskpart, Hirens, Linux, other PCs and stuff to no avail. Any way I can get them revived? VM: Windows 10 CPU: i9-9900K GPU: RTX 2080 Ti RAM: 16 GB DDR4 Mobo: MSI Z370 A-PRO USBs Affected: Centron DataStickPro USB 2 and a Generic one off BestBuy I don't remember + a gifted new generic USB VM Software: VMware Workstation Player

So I have been facing a issue where anytime I try to pass through a GPU to my VM despite isolating the card and HD Audio, when I start the VM up it will not boot or display on my 2nd screen and will instead lock up libvirtd and virt-manager. I tried this following Anthony's MacOS Guide, making my own Windows 10 VM for testing weird stuff I am unsure but may need, and the updated MacOS guide by Passthrough Post that replaces the old one Anthony covered in the MacOS on any PC Video to no luck. Same freeze of both stuff and shutting the system down requires after hitting a black screen to hold power to turn it off CPU: Intel Core i9-9900K GPU1: RTX 2080 Ti GPU2: GT 730 <- This one I want passthrough for the generic stuff I will be doing on Mac and Windows, not gaming or anything high RAM: 16 GB DDR4 Mobo: MSI Z370-A-PRO (Pre-Built and dad bought it like so. Didn't know till christmas) BIOS: Latest Available One OS: Ubuntu 19.10 VM: QEMU w/ Virt-Manager OS Issues: Windows/Mac OS KVM VMs

Hi, I noticed in raspi-config under Boot Options a section called Splash Screen. I tried to enabled it on there but can't as it won't install. I looked a bit on the internet but most of the tutorials applies to like Jessie or Desktop Versions of Raspbian. My version that I run is Raspbian Buster Lite or the plain command line version of Raspbian. I'm mainly planning this for Pi-Hole and wanted to also customize it a bit so is there a way to add a splash screen to the Lite versions of Raspbian and if so one that will transition from the logo to the command line if I need to go physically into the Pi in case something happens where SSH is down or broken?