flibberdipper

And that would lead us to it being from a ProLiant ML350 Gen4.

Grabbed these out of an Alienware that got recycled. Asus P6T Deluxe V2, i7 950, 3x1GB (the original stuff) and 2x4GB (upgraded at some point), and an absolutely fucking PRISTINE GTS250 512MB. There is not a scratch on this card anywhere and I love it.
 

G102/203 pretty much wins by default if you cant find Razer Viper Mini. Honorable mention goes to MM710 and MM711 by Cooler Master but click latency of them varies by firmware. 

Dust is always going to build up in a computer that has moving air, and an air purifier is not going to stop this. Aside from using zero fans at all in the computer you'll have to deal with at least some dust over time. 
 
Edit: and to elaborate on the "zero fans" idea, you'd also have to completely seal up the case. No ventilation holes, no openings, nothing. This is not practical or necessary for basically any home computer, and it's not something you'll see in most business environments either. Just dust the computer occasionally and it'll be fine. 

Grabbed these out of an Alienware that got recycled. Asus P6T Deluxe V2, i7 950, 3x1GB (the original stuff) and 2x4GB (upgraded at some point), and an absolutely fucking PRISTINE GTS250 512MB. There is not a scratch on this card anywhere and I love it.
 

Finally got fed up with my bi-fold $100 bill wallet being big, annoying, catching all of the shit in my pocket, and looking very middle school-esque (which makes sense because that's when it was given to me) and I got a Ridge wallet. So far only complaint is that the way the AirTag clip works, it's always squeezing down on it so the button part of the AirTag no longer functions... Which also means if you lose it you get like 10 seconds before you have to send the sound alert thing again.
 
I also got my second G203 (which isn't pictured) since I'm too lazy to figure out what parts I need to get to repair my G Pro Wireless as the back button is almost completely shot and that's kind of important to have for FPS games. Up until now I've just been plugging in the first one I got for my totally-legal movie ripping PC, however that was annoying to do and I had a $10 off coupon at work which when paired up with being on sale for $27.99 and my 10% discount... Yeah, it's a bargain. Usually I hate wired mice but between the G203 being a nice light mouse like the GPW and the fact that the cable is small/lightweight and not braided, I actually don't mind it.
 

Grabbed these out of an Alienware that got recycled. Asus P6T Deluxe V2, i7 950, 3x1GB (the original stuff) and 2x4GB (upgraded at some point), and an absolutely fucking PRISTINE GTS250 512MB. There is not a scratch on this card anywhere and I love it.
 

That certainly doesn't seem right to me. I've got a Z690I Aorus Ultra and after playing Insurgency for about an hour and a half? and now sitting around doing not a lot, the PCH is at a comparatively frosty 47C with both of the M.2's in the sandwich occupied. Granted I do have some airflow over the stack, but by the time it gets down to the bottom M.2 slot and the PCH the radiator fans above it don't do a whole hell of a lot of good since they're sucking air over it.
 
Time to bitch at ASUS and see if you can get something figured out.

That certainly doesn't seem right to me. I've got a Z690I Aorus Ultra and after playing Insurgency for about an hour and a half? and now sitting around doing not a lot, the PCH is at a comparatively frosty 47C with both of the M.2's in the sandwich occupied. Granted I do have some airflow over the stack, but by the time it gets down to the bottom M.2 slot and the PCH the radiator fans above it don't do a whole hell of a lot of good since they're sucking air over it.
 
Time to bitch at ASUS and see if you can get something figured out.

Thankfully the P3TDDE has one of the more reasonable VIA chipsets, it's always been amusingly stable all things considered. Probably the only VIA based board I've used and really liked.

A pc is a pc. It can do more than one thing no problem BUT you have to get the correct hardware for that.
 
I built mine focus first on 3d work and play later. Since I overbuilt it for 3d work I ended up with a overkill gaming pc too 😛
 
Basically the same as elsewhere. If you are going to be hauling a ton of materials all the time in your car you shouldn't get a sports car but a van.
 
What are the specs of the system?

My 24780XP doesn't look nearly that cool, it looks like the kind of snow you're not supposed to eat. 😞

Smells good tho

My 24780XP doesn't look nearly that cool, it looks like the kind of snow you're not supposed to eat. 😞

Smells good tho

They probably haven't finalized a script for it because they're waiting on more info, or he's just gonna talk about it on the WAN show. It'd be stupid for a channel the size of LTT to just immediately jump onto the "fuck ASUS" bandwagon without making sure they get their facts at least mostly straight. No point in burning bridges that they don't have to.

Realistically as long as you're not constantly writing large amounts of data you'll probably barely even notice the difference between an SSD with DRAM and one without. The initial data transfer will probably suck, and large game updates might not be the best, but it'll still likely be notably better than what the poor hard drive can muster up.

They may not be 7200RPM, but I've been more than happy with my 6TB WD Red Plus drives. They're in a parity storage space which is anything but speed oriented, and they'll still happily crank out 200MB/s sequentals IIRC which is plenty enough. One of the highlights for them IMO is the fact that they're CMR and not SMR so you don't have to worry about the speeds eventually shitting themselves and the drives becoming borderline unusable.

My 24780XP doesn't look nearly that cool, it looks like the kind of snow you're not supposed to eat. 😞

Smells good tho

My 24780XP doesn't look nearly that cool, it looks like the kind of snow you're not supposed to eat. 😞

Smells good tho

Air filter
its red, like flesh
but it’s not flesh, it’s filter
 

If anything just pop it open, give it a good cleaning, and apply some decent thermal paste. Other than that just play games on the thing.

Can confirm, my server has a lowly i5 11400 that is neutered as much as reasonably possible (65w PL2, 45w PL1) and the power succ is amusingly bad compared to my moderately overclocked and undervolted 12600KF. Idle the 11400 usually drinks 16-20w, and my 12600KF (which also downclocks as low as 800MHz because I did a boost-table OC and not a straight OC) idles somewhere in the 10-15w range. Sure it's just a few watts idle, but they add up when left on 24/7.
 
Where 11th gen REALLY falls apart is under any amount of load. Before I reined it in so hard, I had allowed it to suck down 95w for PL1, which was good for 4GHZ and got it an R15 score of 1436. My 12600KF usually draws around 150-155w in R15, and it was able to pull a score of 2866 at something like 4.9GHz all-core. So for literally twice the performance the 12600KF would draw 81% of the power, relatively speaking.
 
Granted, the draw of the CPU is nothing in the grand scheme of things, seeing as my entire server idles around 90-100 watts thanks to the 9 hard drives it has, however wherever you can save power in these dumb things is good.

As someone with a 4TB MP34, a 256GB MP33, and a 128GB MP33 they are fantastic little drives, especially for the money, and I will simp for them at any available chance.

Ah one of the funny colored Latitudes. God I forgot how I wanted one of those dinguses.

Just get a 2TB Team Group MP34 for ~$103 and call it a day. Or two 1TBs for ~$50 each if you want your games on a separate drive for organization's sake. PCIe 3.0 drive, about as fast as those kingstons are or slightly faster, great TBW endurance rating and 5 year warranty. 

This is exactly what I suspected. The "crappy" drive is simply an older version. It looks like that one was made in 2017 while your good drive was made in 2019. There's nothing wrong with WD updating the product over time by incorporating a better part (in this case the drive itself). 
 
At the end of the day you bought a drive that was sold as an entire product, not a bare drive, so the specific model of drive inside doesn't really matter as long as it meets the specifications listed on the packaging it was sold in. I don't see an issue here. It's just two different versions of a product, and the newer one is the better one. 
 
If performance is a concern I'm not sure why you'd choose drives like these for backups, and I don't understand why you'd buy an old one from eBay. This is especially true for reliability.