flibberdipper

Got this 16GB iPhone 5S with a pristine display... but beat to hell body. Not sure what I'm gonna do with it, right now it just runs a clean wipe of 12.5.7. iPhone SE2 for scale.

3 minutes ago, Needfuldoer said:

I think the motherboard in that model might be close enough to MicroATX that you can fudge it into a standard case, but don't quote me on that.

If I'm not mistaken the R12 actually uses a standard mATX motherboard. Hell, I think it's even exempt from Dell's flavor of 12VO and 5-pin PWM autism.

I sense another opportunity to simp for the TeamGroup MP33/MP33 Pro and MP34. I've got the 128 and 256GB versions of the MP33 as well as a 4TB MP34 and I have nothing but praise for them. They're all dirt cheap for the capacity you get, and the endurance on all of them is usually a healthy bit higher than anything else for the same price (my 4TB drive as a rated endurance of 2.4 petabytes). They may not be the fastest things in the world, but realistically you don't need some meme SSD that gets 6,900MB/s.

I finally have to deal with the sizeable coolant leak my car has developed from a cracked radiator end tank. It loses anywhere from 200 to 400mL a day, depending on how warm it is outside and how much I've driven. And here I thought tax return season meant paying off some of the credit card.

2 hours ago, Eireagon said:

Ya power was only gone 15mins, supposedly they  had to turn it off over an acident. I plugged everything out once the power went, and plugged it back in after. Everything seems fine, and have everything in plugged into surge protectors. Only weird thing is monitor powered straight on without needing to press the power button, maybe that was becuase the power went when it was in standby mood. Switch was docked but in standby mode as well. Everything was off except for those two things being in standby mood. How will i know if anything got damaged?

Monitors and TVs usually just "resume" where they left off so that's normal behavior.

Also, if things behave normally then you're fine. There isn't just some magical "yo bro u ok" button that gives you a clear-cut answer on if things got damaged or not. But realistically if your provider cut it, it was probably a pretty clean power cut so the chance for damage is rather unlikely.

13 minutes ago, Average Nerd said:

Generally, when the power just cuts out (black out) the risk of damage isn't super high.

 

Generally, the most dangerous part is when the power comes back or the grid tries to restabilise itself, as far as I know.

Power outages really aren't not that black and white. In my experience it's very common for there to be harmful voltage fluctuations when the power "cuts" out: we just had a straight loss of service caused by a tree snapping a line last month, which caused a fairly significant voltage spike, and that in turn managed to cause an HDMI port on my TV to become highly flaky.

As for the second part of what I've quoted, I don't think that's inherently the biggest issue. In my experience with my provider, when they get things back up it's not unlike flipping a power switch in the sense that we just go from no power to normal power (which is how it should be). The most harmful parts of power loss originate from issues like what I just experienced; whether it be a tree falling on a line, some dumbass deciding their car looks better parked where the power line used to be, or a transformer deciding it wants to transform into a firework.

While I'm sure the power flicking on and off rapidly isn't exactly great for anything, it's realistically the super out of whack voltage spikes during power loss which cause things to let out the magic smoke.

1 hour ago, da na said:

I almost guarantee those came from a late 2000s MacBook - they tend to use smaller capacities and pitifully low clockspeeds from what I've seen

Can confirm, my mid-2009 MBP came with 2GB of 1066MHz DDR3. Not that the speed really matters here since 1066 is the fastest the C2D supports.

Yep, they're just regular NEMA 5-15P to IEC C13 cables. Realistically any gauge wire will work, since even 18AWG is theoretically capable of delivering a little over 1kW without issue.

14 minutes ago, emosun said:

did you want to tell us how you connected the 64 to the tv or is that a secret for us to figure out

Just like taxes we have to guess and get sentenced to death if we get it wrong.

Closing apps will do nothing for his battery unless there's one particular app that refuses to suspend and drinks battery for no reason, iOS has gotten really good at managing itself and all your junk. It's actually more likely that his battery life will get worse if you keep force-closing everything.

I'd suggest you download Snappy Driver Installer Origin. If you do the full-fuck package it's like 58GB, however that has drivers for everything you could possibly want. Being that your board is out of an HP, that makes it pretty damn hard to get drivers unless you have the model of the PC it came out of.

Can't go wrong with a good 'ol 4TB MX500.

8 minutes ago, Vecna said:

I would really like to know why that is the case. Please explain

Avast has essentially become what Norton, McAfee, an AVG all used to be: A bloated turd that barely works, and if I'm not mistaken they still sell your info like nobody's business.

28 minutes ago, DrMacintosh said:

Simply download Malwarebytes and run a scan. It's free.

Ditto on this. Using Avast is a death sentence in itself, you might as well run something worthwhile.

10 hours ago, sub68 said:

Right the 1L models (been a long day), I am thinking of the ancient Pentium thingy.

Which I just figured out is actually socketed. (optiplex SX270's)

Dear god I never knew they made the USFF with a Pentium 4... Now I want one of those AND a 780 USFF for both ends of the whacky USFF generation: Pentium 4 shitbox and a Q6600 shitbox.

8 hours ago, sub68 said:

Can you replace the CPU in those I thought the 1L were soldered cpu's

lol nah, they're normal socketed desktop chips in pretty much all of the 1L OptiPlex, EliteDesk, and ThinkCentre models.

1 hour ago, Bitter said:

Speaking from a little experience, while the 6700 might boot it would swamp the power delivery on the board and either hard trip it, throttle hard, or outright burn something.

I think my ultimate plan would be to limit the long-term turbo to 40-45w since that's about what the cooling in this thing can handle before encroaching on the 80s.

2 hours ago, soldier_ph said:

Do it. I just love Mini PCs who's Power Brick is basically the same size as the Chassis itself but the thing has a Socketed CPU.

Same, 1L Dells will forever have my heart. I reeeeeeeally want to get a newer model that's 12th or 13th gen but I'm not feeling that rich. Only problem (for me) is that the I/O on newer models is somehow worse. IMO the 7040 is perfect: 6x USB3, 1x DP, 1x HDMI... The newer ones are either 4x USB3, 2x USB2, 1x DP, 1x HDMI or 4x USB3, 1x Type C, and 3x DP... Like come on guys lol

Bought this (apparently) brand new 130w power brick for this PC I got for free: an OptiPlex 7040 Micro. Mine has an i5 6600T, 8GB of single-channel 2133MHz RAM, and a 128GB SanDisk X400. My inner dumbass really wants to give it an i7 6700, 32GB of RAM (anything higher than 2400 is overkill, but it'll probably get 2666), and a 512GB MP33. Just for the memes.

21 minutes ago, Bibin Sunny said:

 

 

I wish that i could test this somehow. Can the power consumption of RGB backlighting be compared between different laptop models, such as the ROG G16 and older laptops like the 2007 XPS?

Not directly, no. RGB vs plain white is completely different, and even just going between models manufactured by the same company can't always be reliable.

It's likely almost negligible. I remember seeing something somewhere and a full-size USB keyboard with backlighting only requested to draw something like 100mA at 5V... which is essentially nothing. And that's just how much it requested: not how much it actually uses.

It's probably a back burner project to begin with, but I also have to imagine that designing and sourcing cables isn't a super easy thing to begin with, much like the screwdriver.

This is how I store almost all of my motherboards, graphics cards, and other expansion cards in a metal filing cabinet. They all work fine. Not to mention I've built many things on carpet, including my friend's build with a 7700X and 4080.

2 hours ago, Brucifer said:

Noise comparison video (also, @flibberdipper is this your video? Same profile picture).

 

 

Good luck!

Nope, not me. Though I do have this one, amusingly.

6 hours ago, Adirna said:

can you link me a guide that u use for it that made is very simple for you please ? thanks

I didn't use a guide for anything, I just kinda winged it and ended up with something that works perfectly. Hopefully later tonight I can remember to take screenshots of what I have going so you can use it as a baseline and see what happens. Mine is less of an overclock and more of an optimization since I have it set so that if I need to I can swap to a low-profile air cooler and not have to change anything.