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flibberdipper

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Posts posted by flibberdipper


  1. 1 minute ago, just that pc guy said:

    and they wonder why they are so slow, there option is just to remove them, and either get new ones or switch to.... chromebooks

    Replacing the clients won't do a whole lot of good if they're not the problem. Quite frankly I find the chances of this district getting that sweet gubberment money to overhaul servers, networking, AND the labs to be extremely slim.


  2. Mini AC: Origins dump. Running it at 1080p very high (or high if that's the max) with a 30fps cap and no AA (since it's so vaseline-y) and it's perfect. Too bad the game is retarded and does that "white box on a black background" bullshit on launch unless I close Afterburner.

     

     

    2022704245_AssassinsCreedOriginsScreenshot2019_03.20-21_10_28_57.thumb.png.1adb4c00c75fed6d0dae93edc944dd9a.png830149238_AssassinsCreedOriginsScreenshot2019_03.20-20_40_12_93.thumb.png.d0b91acbde33ffbc3abcb7a6c34a2451.png688955279_AssassinsCreedOriginsScreenshot2019_03.20-18_15_29_94.thumb.png.ac09f03e727cf9d36fca223deb421693.png838799944_AssassinsCreedOriginsScreenshot2019_03_20-17_43_20_96.thumb.png.5aa29a4a10be3f11da4ac9b79821b9ac.png

     


  3. 41 minutes ago, sauronofmordor said:

    @flibberdipper In regards to question 6, what are the chances of the fans getting to high rpms with all 4 of them going in my fairly open mesh case (see below, 3 front, 1 back). Also would it be appropriate for me to repost this under general discussion to search for people who might know more about question 2, especially with the wiring situation for the fans (might just cut the cable and solder)? or at least to search for people who have the arctic 33?

     

    Their speed is entirely dependent on what the fan curve is that they have to follow. You can almost certainly tweak it how you want in the BIOS (most boards will have something like silent, normal, performance, and manual on a per-header basis).

     

    And no, I wouldn't do a repost. It'll just end up getting merged with this topic.


  4. 1. Looks solid enough to me. F12's are pretty killer cheapies.

    2. I believe they both need to be PWM, but I could be entirely wrong on that.

    3. If your airflow right now is complete trash, then sure. But I personally wouldn't expect a whole hell of a lot.

    4. I would imagine so, but even then your case should have come with enough screws to fill every spot.

    5. Keep them as spares or hack a few up to run off USB for summer gayming comfort.

    6. They do generally help (especially at higher RPMS), and a lot of the screws I've seen are probably long enough to make it past.


  5. 16 minutes ago, XR6 said:

    I doubt it. You'd probably need have some sort of custom CPU block made.. Even then you'd need a huge case to fit all the rads in.

    IMO it doesn't seem possible.

    ...What. Why would you need a custom block for two damn tubes to go into it? Like come on, don't just spew complete and utter bullshit.


  6. 3 minutes ago, handymanshandle said:

    Any more white and brown and this would be the official cooler of Regular Car Reviews.

    Like I understand the performance of Noctua coolers and fans, and I really don't mind its colors, but it just kills it for me for my rig, even though I barely look at the inside.

    The brown would just accentuate the poopy cable management


  7. 35 minutes ago, mach said:

    How about the Dr.Saber Sentry Linus just did a build in?

    It fits the same hardware the node can but even smaller. 7L vs 10.2L. 

    I think it's the best SFF slim case around. 

    1 April should be the day when purchase campaign starts?

     

    I would like to, don't get me wrong, but if I'm not mistaken the first gen of them were some obscene price and ya boi ain't aboutta spend fat stacks just on a case.


  8. 8 hours ago, reallylikeskeypad said:

    this, have the F14 (140mm version) and unless at max RPM theyre pretty quiet

    Even the 80 and 92's (which my grandma's PC has to replace the stock AVC ones) are incredibly quiet full tilt. In her case, even just normal operation with them pretty much just idling her temps managed to drop since the AVC's only really had top end power.


  9. 1 minute ago, Bitter said:

    What connector? The old flat 6 pin or the 4 pin "P4" ATX12V one? If you have a pin out of the connector and it's not proprietary should be easy to hack it onto a modern unit.

    The good 'ol annoying ass flat six. I suppose that while I could always hack up a few cables to get the right voltages and whatknot, it really would be more of a PITA than it's worth. Guess I just don't fully see the point in replacing something that isn't broken. Suppose we also can't forget that older PCs generally slam 5v more than 12v, and modern PSUs don't do so hot with that kind of load.


  10. 2 hours ago, Bitter said:

    Get a modern PSU, those old ones are really awful even the good old ones. My antique Antec 550W is 72% efficient at full load,that's just terrible by modern standards! Other parameters like hold up time and the quality of the voltage were also lack luster back then. 

    You have no idea how badly I'd want to do this for my XP rig (the ol RV350 is old enough and inefficient enough that the power draw of the system turned off makes the PSU warm) but none of the PSUs I have actually have the aux power connector which I need, and I'm not about to drop retardo amounts of money on one that does.

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