whoisjaya

Not an expert on this but I think you may get some like creature comforts with newer iterations/generations, like better hot-plugability or whatever but I think from a pure bandwidth standpoint the difference should be negligible if anything since I don't think a keyboard/mouse would usually put out anywhere near enough data to saturate even a usb 1.1 connector. Could be wrong tho.

I think it could be because the app offers you 128 levels of volume (2^7), and 127 would be the maximum because 0 would also count as its own level, therefore 128-1 = 127

Sounds like an issue within the app, where there's 128 (2^7) levels of volume instead of 101 (0-100), which I guess (neither a developer nor a musician) may have to do with the fact that a lot of MIDI stuff (I believe) uses multiples of 2 (as do a lot of (digital) things) for certain variable ranges. My MIDI controller for instance has pressure-sensitive pads that have 128 levels of pressure (0-127).

Thank you for you response! Of course I'm aware you have to re-calibrate your monitor every now and then, and she obviously owns a calibration device, the 32UN650-W actually looks quite good for the price, thanks a lot!

Hey, so I've been looking at monitors to buy for my mum (she's a professional photographer and mainly does portraits and weddings), and she's willing to spend about €500 (also willing to go over budget a bit if she ends up having to). She'd like for the monitor to: have good skin tone reproduction have at least 100% sRGB coverage be at least 250 nits preferably be a 34 ish inch ultrawide TYIA :)

Seems like you were right. He's got it working now, the CPU wasn't seated properly and somehow, one of the pins in the socket was bent. (idk how that couldve happened tbh lmao)

I was thinking that, too, and no, he has yet to try that. ('he' as in 'we're troubleshooting remotely' lmao)

Just double checked with him, there was no spillage, he's just afraid he might've squeezed some alcohol out of the cotton swab. But I honestly doubt that really happened.

Although I guess it depends on your CPU, too.

According to, https://www.asus.com/Motherboards-Components/Motherboards/PRIME/PRIME-A320M-K/techspec/, it seems so.

Hey, so a friend upgraded his rig with a new CPU cooler and NVME SSD today, and his pc just won't turn on, and I've been trying to help him. Whenever he tries to power on his machine, the fans spin and everything lights up, and other than that, nothing happens. (It doesn't seem to be rebooting, it just doesn't do anything.) Made him take out the SSD, nothing changed. Tried just one of the RAM sticks, in different slots, no success there either. Tried to reseat the power cables, didn't change anything. Plugged his display into the iGPU, still no output. I'm thinking it may be a CPU issue, but I'm not sure since I have dealt with any actual troubleshooting in a hot minute. Anything I'm missing here? Thanks in advance EDIT: Also he did say he might've spilled some isopropyl alcohol on the CPU wiping off the old thermal paste, but I doubt that really could've done anything with how fast it evaporates and considering that would've been several minutes before he first tried to power on the machine.

Yeah, it's just that RAM can be a lil funky sometimes...

Also keep in mind that your pc might not necessarily run stably with new RAM at a higher speed, because it may not "like" the different timings or something like that, and new RAM doesn't necessarily mean better performance, although that really depends on what you do, how well the software you use is optimised, and so on and so forth.

You basically only really need to make sure everything fits, which shouldn't be all too hard since that's why most components have standardised dimensions. I'd say you're wanna make sure your prebuilt uses a standard-size power supply and try to figure out if the wires will be long enough to reach all your components once transferred to the new case. Also see if you can find out what size your motherboard is; according to the website you linked, up to ATX should be fine. Other than that, I guess the only thing left to check is whether you have enough space for all your drives, fans, etc., and anything else you might potentially want to upgrade later down the road.

Yeah, seems like that also goes for this PSU, and it was what I was initially gonna go off but I also didn't exactly wanna fry my computer, since I didn't know for sure. Thanks again

Thanks! Just realised they split, turns out they're just really tight so I thought they didn't...

Hey, I hope this isn't too dumb a question but, although I'd consider myself a somewhat experienced PC builder, I've never had a modular power supply. I just got my Gigabyte P750GM, and I'm not sure which 8 pin wires to use for what. (No, it doesn't say in the manual, and they're not labelled) A lot of my confusion stems from the two eight pin to eight pin cables, where each has one end with only 7 populated contacts, although all of the PSU's ones are. What do I do? Also, is it normal they don't include 6 pin pcie cables? Thanks in advance :)

Also depends on your budget and the actual games themselves, or their hardware requirements and what settings you would like to run them at I suppose, as well...

No offence, but do you need a 144Hz monitor as your secondary one if it's just going to have apps like Spotify and Discord on it? You could save a lot of money there tbh... Also, what kind of games are you going to play? I'd go higher res for sightseeing/adventure/story games and higher refresh rate for (competitive/)fps games.

I agree. Unless it's electrically conductive. Then you're fucked if it gets in the wrong places. lol Don't quote me on this, but I think very few are(so pls dont hold me responsible if you break your pc by shortening it out with thermal paste lol)

Not even sure myself lmao

I think the "contacts around the chipset" are resistors

Which kind of interface are you using?

Not sure if you really *have* to spend that much... Guess if you wanna get a not-as-fancy monitor, you could just buy an AOC V24G1. Its colours seem pretty ok if not decent to *me*(don't quote me on that one) and I really like it in general... Thing is, it's curved, 144Hz, 1080p, looks pretty good(to me that is, not guaranteeing for anything lol), has a height-adjustable stand, all for just about $200, although for that price I really wouldn't expect HDR. Please pardon my laziness, but here's something I said about it last decade(sorry, I'm aware that was cringe but I couldn't resist) when I'd just got it:

Just checked, it's build 10240. How exactly would I upgrade tho?