CaseyMazur

I recently got a Leviton Decora Wi-Fi light switch and tried to install it today. I am trying to install it to replace the light portion of my ceiling fan, since the fan and light have seperate switches. I came to a roadblock though-- it needs the neutral wire to function at all. When I put it in, I could still control the fan from its switch but the light wouldn't do anything even though the switch was on and connected to my phone. The neutral wires in the switch box are all capped together. I read that this isn't unusual, but I don't know how to proceed from here. Is there no way around this limitation? Any help is appreciated, thanks guys!

I realize that its due to my bank/PayPal, but why would the fee suddenly go up so much?

For the past few months, I have been getting charged $2.99 for FP and a $0.02 foreign transaction fee. I understand that there is a fee and that it's perfectly normal since money is going over the border to LMG/FPM. This last month though, I was charged a $0.06 fee. Are there some new rates that I am unaware of? I want an explanation as to why the fee would've tripled within a month.

I recently deployed a Nas4Free box on my network for use as a home NAS. I want to know how I would be able to set up a VPN to allow access to the NAS from anywhere (hotel, coffee shop, work, etc.). I have an extra PC collecting dust that could be used if necessary. Thanks in advance.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but can't you just RAID 0 all three drives?

The title pretty much explains it all: should I get a used WD Black 1TB drive from eBay for $27.94 or go to Micro Center to get a new OEM P300 for $31? WD Black: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Western-Digital-Caviar-Black-1TB-Internal-7200RPM-3-5-WD1001FAES-HDD/202230933650?epid=109429822&hash=item2f15e72892:g:P4gAAOSwTEVah0cr P300: http://www.microcenter.com/product/488570/P300_1TB_7200RPM_SATA_III_6Gb-s_35_OEM_Internal_Hard_Drive

So, I'm building a new system and want to know if I should pick up a WD or Hitachi 1TB hard drive. The Hitachi costs ~$2 more than the WD, and I want to hear the community's opinion. Which drive should I get? Hitachi: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hitachi-1TB-3-5-SATA-3-0-Gbps-7200-RPM-Hard-Drives-0F12627-Tested/162876155355?epid=1165056823&hash=item25ec2ce5db:g:0wIAAOSwSrNaTkYN WD: https://www.ebay.com/itm/WD10EADS-11P8B1-Western-Digital-Green-1TB-SATA-3-5-HDD-32MB-WD10EADS/232665772563?epid=72373243&hash=item362bf5f213:g:ztcAAOSwjytahKXQ Preferably 1-2TB, 7200RPM drives is what I want for this system, but for cheap.

My friend is trying to decide whether he should get a PS4 or a PC for Christmas. I've been trying to show him the ways that PCMR is better, but I need some help. The main reason that he wants the PS4 is to play with a bunch of people he knows that also have PS4s. What is the community's opinion?

I found a BIOS on the Gateway website, but for some reason, it only includes the flashing software and not the ROM needed to flash it. I haven't been able to find one that actually does have the ROM.

I currently have a system with the following specs: Intel i7-920 6GB DDR3 1066MHz Gateway TBGM01 Motherboard Crucial 240GB SSD WD Green 1TB HDD Insignia 450w PSU PNY GT 710 2GB GPU I recently bought a used Intel Xeon X5660 off of eBay with the intent to replace my i7-920. I installed the new processor into my mobo, and when I try to turn the system on, all I get is a single long beep for as long as you leave the machine running. Steps I have already tried: 1. Tested with old, but known good, LiteON 450w PSU - same thing. 2. Installing 12GB DDR3 ECC RAM to see if that would change anything even though it is a non-ECC compatible board - nothing different. I have no idea why this CPU wouldn't work on this board; it's the same socket on the same platform, on the supported list - with a higher compatibility score than the 920! I don't have any other systems to test the chip in, but I know its getting power because it starts to warm up when turned on. Does anyone have anything for me to try, or know if anyone has had a similar issue before?

Okay, so will non-ECC RAM work with a CPU that supports ECC?

Since you said you have a GTX 1080, you should be able to connect 4 displays to that at once, no? If not, you should be able to install the GTX 1050ti and the drivers and be able to connect it right to that.

I bought ECC RAM without knowing that my motherboard wasn’t compatible and now I want to know if there is a way to force it to work. Is this possible?

Do you know if there’s any possible way to make the ECC memory work?

Yeah, I thought it might be the memory. Why would the cpu not work though...? Hmm.