Rollergold

Is this for you or someone else? Is its for someone else are they are new to photography with a dedicated camera? If so Canon's M series lineup like the M100 would be great as their menu layout and generally excellent touch interface help keep frustrations to a minimum for beginners. If they are willing to put up with any UI on a camera however I would go with the Fuji as Fuji is the only 1st party company that actually cares about making a wide range of good lenses for APS-C sensors. If you want good glass from likes of Canon, Nikon or Sony for the most part you need to buy their lenses for full frame sensors which are heavier, bulkier, and more expensive. And unless you shoot sports/action, a better lens will give you generally better results then a fancier body.

Based on that I would go with the one of the Canon Camera's with their Dual Pixel AF like the Rebel SL2/200D or M50, combined with the flippy touch screen and Canon's generally easy to use menu and interface you can tap on your face on the touch screen and it will follow you around the frame without any further interaction, and the flip screen will allow you to see what is being recorded while you are recording.

What kind of lenses do you have ? EF-S (Crop Lenses) or mostly EF (Full Frame) glass? If you have mostly EF-S glass then the 6D MKll is pretty much a no go as Canon's FF DSLR's are not compatible with their EF-S lenses.
 
Also what kind of Photography do you do right now? A lot portraits and landscapes or do you like to take advantage of the 80D's 7FPS and pretty good tracking for action and wildlife? If you don't do action/wildlife then save up for the EOS-R w/ its 30 MP sensor as its one of the 3 Canon Bodies that has an actually noticeable increase in resolution over the 80D and the cheapest @ 2300 USD + with the EF-RF adapter + you can still use EF-S glass something Canon's FF DSLR's can't do.
 

No idea but CES would be a logical time for Acer to give more details

My Ticket out of the 1080p/60hz stone age has arrived in the form of the ROG Swift PG279Q

 
Also got a ModMic 5 for Christmas so I can now use my HD6xx as a headset and retire My Astro A40's

Out of those my vote goes for the Primo The P630 and 750D are also good choices. Also theres Case Labs if you want to crazy with your loop

EK's Ekoolant, any of the mayham coolants are good choises. For best temps DI Water and a biocide of your choise is the way to go. If you go mayhams avoid the aroura line as it wasn't made for long term use.

I would go with the Kraken X60 as it has the software fan control and controllable LED on the CPU Block/Pump Top

I would go with the Kraken X60 as it has the software fan control and controllable LED on the CPU Block/Pump Top

I would go with the Kraken X60 as it has the software fan control and controllable LED on the CPU Block/Pump Top

Built a watercooling loop and crossed half of the tubing runs and used tubing that leached plasticizer  

Built a watercooling loop and crossed half of the tubing runs and used tubing that leached plasticizer  

I was looking into the crossfade line but no one seems to sell them locally here in Calgary Alberta. For somthing like headphones I'm more inclined to buy local since if I have return or exchange somthing its much less painful and the wait to get them is less too :P  I'll keep the LP2's in mind but I'm kinda leaning towards the Momentums since they press my ears in much less when I tried them on with my glasses, can get them locally and most likey get Future Shop to price match them down from 400 to 315 since the local Apple store sells them for 350. But I'll mull it over for a little more. 

Around 300 won't spend that much if I don't have too.

A year before I built my custom loop I went out a bought an H100 from memory express.
 
How easy was it to mount?. Compared to my Hyper 212+ a breeze, the nuts with my 212+ had some imperfections in the threading so when I was screwing it down I scratched a few of the PCB traces on the back of my board causing some of the ram to go haywire, had to replace the board. With the H100,everything clicked and fit in with no fuss or muss, mounting the fans was a pain but only Swiftech's H220 has short screws for mounting fans to the rad. Were you impressed? Very impressed, went from 3.5ghz on my 920 @ 80+c to 4.01ghz @ 76c. Without a big old block of metal hanging off my board. The fan's are retardo loud but I knew that before I bought it and also bought some GT 1850's.  There is a lot of talk of overclocking with AIOs. Did you do it? Was it easy? Yep I did some overclocking, was no harder than with the 212+, got more out of the H100 but my 920 is not a really good overclocking chip (it needs to run at 1.415 volts to stay stable @ 4ghz   <_<) How did you decide which AIO unit you bought? I bought corsair because of the kick butt warranty, the looks and the fact no one else at the time had a 240mm AiO  Any small issues that you wouldn't usually mention with your AIO cooler? Besides the retardo loud fans, I wasn't a fan the fact you had to screw right into the fins on the rad by a little bit to mount the fans  Would you recommend it for the price to other people? If you can find it at a discount go for it, its still a great cooler. Any tips for people buying your model of AIO cooler? Don't use the stock fans and don't use the corsair link software both are failures. The fans are way too loud and the corsair link software doesn't play nice with enough fan models to be really useful, it couldn't even control corsair's own AF and SP fan series properly. Get some proper fans and run them at a constant speed if you ask me. I think AiO's is custom loop's gateway drug, after you see how good a AiO can cool your cpu you will want to put other parts under water too and your wallet will hate you for it too :P
 
 

I would go for either the NF-F12's or the Gentle Typhoon AP 15's. Also personally I wouldn't do push pull. Your not getting the extra cooling proportionate to the amount of extra noise those extra fans are making. Run in Pull, you will still great cooling and be able to easily clean out the rad.