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Grx

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  1. Like
    Grx got a reaction from da na in Experiences with non-techies   
    I played GtaV on i5 3rd gen and a Gtx660 lol
  2. Like
    Grx got a reaction from da na in Experiences with non-techies   
    I tried to install GtaV on my Pc 2 years before it got ported
  3. Agree
    Grx got a reaction from Kiani in The keyboard backlight bleed of my xps 15 is driving me crazy. How can I fix it?   
    So I use my xps 15 (9550) mostly at night and I have to type on it fairly frequently.
    The problem is, the keyboard has the worst backlight bleed I've ever seen, even at 50%, to the point where I prefer turn it off and click on keys at random until I hit the correct one...
     
    So, do you have any ideas how to make it dimmer? Maybe some keycaps or something?
    Thanks!

  4. Like
    Grx reacted to vanished in [Guide] What is sleep?   
    This will be a short post as there isn't much to this topic unless you want to get into really technical details, which is why I've avoided doing it all these years, but I decided finally it is probably worth having.  Speaking of those technical details, if you feel like adding them below, go ahead
     
    Sleep
    This is also sometimes called "Standby", "Suspend to RAM" or just "Suspend".  In this state, your computer basically "pauses" all execution, and then cuts or significantly reduces power to most of the hardware (drives, CPU, etc.).  RAM continues to receive power because without it, the data would slowly fade, become corrupt, and be lost.  Because of this, on battery, you will still draw power until the battery eventually dies and power is lost, but power draw is very small so this could take days or even weeks.  Because everything is still stored in RAM, resuming or "waking up" from this state is very quick, taking usually only a few seconds at most, but if power is lost completely while sleeping, it's no different than if power had been lost while running normally - ie, it counts as an improper shutdown.  In sleep mode, the computer is capable of "listening" for things that can wake it up (laptop lid being opened, keyboard press, etc.) but, as mentioned, no execution happens.  You cannot download files or host a shared folder while sleeping for example.
     
    If you are going to be away from your system for long enough that it doesn't make sense to keep it on, but short enough that it doesn't make sense to shut down (say, between 10 minutes and an hour, but this is subjective), sleep is the recommended state to put your system into.
     
    Hibernation
    This is sometimes called "suspend to disk".  In this state, your computer takes everything in RAM and writes it to the hiberfil.sys (in windows) or the swap partition (in Linux), then physically turns off, no different than if you had shut down.  When turning your computer back on, you will go through POST, have access to the BIOS, and (if you dual boot) have access to GRUB or your bootloader of choice.  Once an operating system is selected though, rather than booting normally, it will simply reload everything from that file to RAM, and then continue running as if nothing had happened.  In this way (from the software's perspective) it is the same as sleep, but from the hardware's perspective, it's the same as being shut down.
     
    There are several reasons why you should or should not use hibernation.  If you dual boot and need to switch OSes routinely without stopping what you were in the middle of, it's a fantastic option.  If you still have a HDD as a boot drive (please don't do this), hibernating whenever possible instead of shutting down will likely improve your off-to-ready times considerably.  Not only do you skip the login phase, but booting itself is faster too in my experience.  I theorize this is because loading one large sequential file is faster than many small files, even if the total amount of data is actually larger, but that's just a guess.  If you have an SSD, you're probably better off shutting down and booting normally though.  In my experience it's faster, and it'll put less wear on your drive.  If you need to pause what you're doing for an extended period of time, or through a period where you will likely lose power, hibernation should be used.
     
    As I mentioned earlier, in Windows, the file used for hibernation is not the page file, and so if you don't intend to ever hibernate, you can disable it with the command powercfg.exe /hibernate off.  Doing so may save you several GB on your C drive, as it seems to hold data even when not in use for some reason... perhaps to make sure there's room when needed?  I actually don't know.
     
    Hybrid Sleep
    This is a feature added in Windows Vista that basically combines the two methods mentioned above.  If my understanding is correct it's also available in MacOS under the name "safe sleep".  If you have this enabled, putting your computer to sleep will cause it to write the hiberfil as if you were going into hibernation, but it will then sleep normally.  If you are able to, you can then resume quickly from sleep as if you'd just slept normally, but if power was lost, the hiberfil is there to resume from as if you had just hibernated normally.  Personally I am not a fan since I am capable of choosing the appropriate method to use manually and this combines both the good, and the bad of both, but to each their own.  It's worth noting that this might be enabled by default, so if you've always found going to sleep takes a long time and has a lot of disk activity associated with it (something that in pure sleep will not happen), you might want to check that in Power Options.
     
    Fast Startup
    Unlike everything else in this list, this isn't a method of suspending execution, but it uses some of the same mechanisms so I thought I'd explain it here.  Basically, if you shut down when this is enabled, parts of the system are saved using a technique similar to hibernation, but the "user stuff" is not, so you effectively get a clean boot*, but perhaps a little faster than it would otherwise be doing it in the traditional way.  I have not experimented with this myself enough to know when if ever it should be used, or the various up and down sides, but it's something you should be aware of.
     
    * It will not save what you were doing but it's possible that things which would be fixed by a traditional reboot would not be fixed when doing this, so keep that in mind.
     
     
    As usual, I hope this has been useful, and if you have any corrections you'd like to suggest please let me know below!
  5. Like
    Grx got a reaction from kelvinhall05 in Nuke Google Maps Timeline (AutoHotKey Script)   
    If you don't know already, Google keeps a record of when and where you've been if you have Google Maps open or if you use an Android phone (I don't think this is an issue on Iphones, I don't have one to test).
    Good thing is, you can delete it, bad thing is, you can only do so one date at a time (and each date takes 3 clicks to delete) so it takes ages to delete all of it by hand.
     
    I got a bit annoyed by this today and (after I couldn't find any good auto-clickers online that also move the mouse) I decided to make my own with AutoHotKey (btw, this was the first time I used AutoHotKey, so I'm sorry if the script is messy)
     
    Few things to do/note before you open the script:
    Once the script is started, you can not use the mouse. To stop the script hold down P (it is a little un-responsive, but it shouldn't take more than a second) If for some reason you can not stop the script, signing out of windows (with Ctrl + Alt + Del) also stops the script. The position of the buttons is hard-coded because I could not figure out how to use variables. If the script is clicking in the wrong places, you can either a) set your monitor resolution to 1080p and see if it works, or b) change the values inside the script. (check out the last section of this topic) Go to the Timeline and click on the newest date that has some location history (highlighted in blue) Hit Ctrl + G to start the script (it will delete that day and then move to the previous day) Sometimes the script will get out of sinc or Google will not delete a date (as far as I could figure out this would happen at random, with or without the script running). If this happens, hold down P, go back to the date that was missed and hit Ctrl + G again. (it might need to be deleted a few times) You can not recover the location data after it is deleted. After you are done, reload the page, click on the selected month, select "Month - all" and scroll through the timeline to check if you've deleted all of it. How to run the script:
    Install AutoHotKey Right click on the desktop, select New - AutoHotkey Script Right click on it and select Edit Paste the text in the 'spoiler' inside of it, save and then right click - Run (You may need to run it as administrator) As you can see, the script is very basic. I would've liked to add variables for the button positions and possibly even a color/image check to find the exact position of the buttons, but I didn't have a lot of time and this script works well enough, so whatever
     
    How it works:
    It checks if the key combination Ctrl + G is pressed and triggers the loop In the loop, it checks if the key P is pressed and if it is, it stops the loop It then moves the mouse towards the bin icon's position, clicks once, then moves slightly to the left and clicks again. This is because dates with more location data have a scrollbar and it moves the bin button to the left.  (It also jitters the mouse before clicking because Google has an algorithm that checks the movement of the mouse before it presses that button, but it seems that adding two 'fake' movements in the vague direction of the button (even if their position values are hard-coded) is enough to trick it. (great work Google ;p)) It then waits a little bit and does the same for the confirmation dialogue, then clicks on the previous day button and loops back to the top.  
     
    If the script is clicking in the wrong places here's what you need to do:
    Go to the Timeline and hover your cursor over the bin button. Hit Ctrl + F and take note of the values inside the dialogue box. Find the section of code that says ";Click on Bin Icon" Find "Click, 579, 352" (the first click command) and replace the first number with the X value from the dialogue box and the second number with the Y value. Do the same for the second click command, but this time subtract ~20 from the X value Now find the two MouseMove commands above the click commands and set their values to the first click's position, but this time add and subtract from both the X and the Y values a random number between 50 and -50 (eg. If your X value is 10 and your Y is 40, you would set the first move command to something like "MouseMove, 60, -10). Be pretty random, these values should not break the script. Go back to the Timeline and now click on the bin icon, and once the confirmation dialogue has appeared, hover your cursor over the "Delete Day" button, press Ctrl + F and paste those values inside ";Click on Confirm" just like you did at step 4 (note, this time there is only one click command and you don't need to subtract 20 from X.) Find the MouseMove commands of the ";Click on Confirm" section, hit Ctr + F and change them as in step 6 Go back to the Timeline and hover over the Previous Day button (to the left of the bin), hit Ctrl + F, and follow steps 4 & 6 (or 7 & 8), but inside the  ";Click on Previous Day". Your script should now work  
  6. Like
    Grx got a reaction from RAM555789 in Nuke Google Maps Timeline (AutoHotKey Script)   
    If you don't know already, Google keeps a record of when and where you've been if you have Google Maps open or if you use an Android phone (I don't think this is an issue on Iphones, I don't have one to test).
    Good thing is, you can delete it, bad thing is, you can only do so one date at a time (and each date takes 3 clicks to delete) so it takes ages to delete all of it by hand.
     
    I got a bit annoyed by this today and (after I couldn't find any good auto-clickers online that also move the mouse) I decided to make my own with AutoHotKey (btw, this was the first time I used AutoHotKey, so I'm sorry if the script is messy)
     
    Few things to do/note before you open the script:
    Once the script is started, you can not use the mouse. To stop the script hold down P (it is a little un-responsive, but it shouldn't take more than a second) If for some reason you can not stop the script, signing out of windows (with Ctrl + Alt + Del) also stops the script. The position of the buttons is hard-coded because I could not figure out how to use variables. If the script is clicking in the wrong places, you can either a) set your monitor resolution to 1080p and see if it works, or b) change the values inside the script. (check out the last section of this topic) Go to the Timeline and click on the newest date that has some location history (highlighted in blue) Hit Ctrl + G to start the script (it will delete that day and then move to the previous day) Sometimes the script will get out of sinc or Google will not delete a date (as far as I could figure out this would happen at random, with or without the script running). If this happens, hold down P, go back to the date that was missed and hit Ctrl + G again. (it might need to be deleted a few times) You can not recover the location data after it is deleted. After you are done, reload the page, click on the selected month, select "Month - all" and scroll through the timeline to check if you've deleted all of it. How to run the script:
    Install AutoHotKey Right click on the desktop, select New - AutoHotkey Script Right click on it and select Edit Paste the text in the 'spoiler' inside of it, save and then right click - Run (You may need to run it as administrator) As you can see, the script is very basic. I would've liked to add variables for the button positions and possibly even a color/image check to find the exact position of the buttons, but I didn't have a lot of time and this script works well enough, so whatever
     
    How it works:
    It checks if the key combination Ctrl + G is pressed and triggers the loop In the loop, it checks if the key P is pressed and if it is, it stops the loop It then moves the mouse towards the bin icon's position, clicks once, then moves slightly to the left and clicks again. This is because dates with more location data have a scrollbar and it moves the bin button to the left.  (It also jitters the mouse before clicking because Google has an algorithm that checks the movement of the mouse before it presses that button, but it seems that adding two 'fake' movements in the vague direction of the button (even if their position values are hard-coded) is enough to trick it. (great work Google ;p)) It then waits a little bit and does the same for the confirmation dialogue, then clicks on the previous day button and loops back to the top.  
     
    If the script is clicking in the wrong places here's what you need to do:
    Go to the Timeline and hover your cursor over the bin button. Hit Ctrl + F and take note of the values inside the dialogue box. Find the section of code that says ";Click on Bin Icon" Find "Click, 579, 352" (the first click command) and replace the first number with the X value from the dialogue box and the second number with the Y value. Do the same for the second click command, but this time subtract ~20 from the X value Now find the two MouseMove commands above the click commands and set their values to the first click's position, but this time add and subtract from both the X and the Y values a random number between 50 and -50 (eg. If your X value is 10 and your Y is 40, you would set the first move command to something like "MouseMove, 60, -10). Be pretty random, these values should not break the script. Go back to the Timeline and now click on the bin icon, and once the confirmation dialogue has appeared, hover your cursor over the "Delete Day" button, press Ctrl + F and paste those values inside ";Click on Confirm" just like you did at step 4 (note, this time there is only one click command and you don't need to subtract 20 from X.) Find the MouseMove commands of the ";Click on Confirm" section, hit Ctr + F and change them as in step 6 Go back to the Timeline and hover over the Previous Day button (to the left of the bin), hit Ctrl + F, and follow steps 4 & 6 (or 7 & 8), but inside the  ";Click on Previous Day". Your script should now work  
  7. Like
    Grx got a reaction from Docretier in Nuke Google Maps Timeline (AutoHotKey Script)   
    If you don't know already, Google keeps a record of when and where you've been if you have Google Maps open or if you use an Android phone (I don't think this is an issue on Iphones, I don't have one to test).
    Good thing is, you can delete it, bad thing is, you can only do so one date at a time (and each date takes 3 clicks to delete) so it takes ages to delete all of it by hand.
     
    I got a bit annoyed by this today and (after I couldn't find any good auto-clickers online that also move the mouse) I decided to make my own with AutoHotKey (btw, this was the first time I used AutoHotKey, so I'm sorry if the script is messy)
     
    Few things to do/note before you open the script:
    Once the script is started, you can not use the mouse. To stop the script hold down P (it is a little un-responsive, but it shouldn't take more than a second) If for some reason you can not stop the script, signing out of windows (with Ctrl + Alt + Del) also stops the script. The position of the buttons is hard-coded because I could not figure out how to use variables. If the script is clicking in the wrong places, you can either a) set your monitor resolution to 1080p and see if it works, or b) change the values inside the script. (check out the last section of this topic) Go to the Timeline and click on the newest date that has some location history (highlighted in blue) Hit Ctrl + G to start the script (it will delete that day and then move to the previous day) Sometimes the script will get out of sinc or Google will not delete a date (as far as I could figure out this would happen at random, with or without the script running). If this happens, hold down P, go back to the date that was missed and hit Ctrl + G again. (it might need to be deleted a few times) You can not recover the location data after it is deleted. After you are done, reload the page, click on the selected month, select "Month - all" and scroll through the timeline to check if you've deleted all of it. How to run the script:
    Install AutoHotKey Right click on the desktop, select New - AutoHotkey Script Right click on it and select Edit Paste the text in the 'spoiler' inside of it, save and then right click - Run (You may need to run it as administrator) As you can see, the script is very basic. I would've liked to add variables for the button positions and possibly even a color/image check to find the exact position of the buttons, but I didn't have a lot of time and this script works well enough, so whatever
     
    How it works:
    It checks if the key combination Ctrl + G is pressed and triggers the loop In the loop, it checks if the key P is pressed and if it is, it stops the loop It then moves the mouse towards the bin icon's position, clicks once, then moves slightly to the left and clicks again. This is because dates with more location data have a scrollbar and it moves the bin button to the left.  (It also jitters the mouse before clicking because Google has an algorithm that checks the movement of the mouse before it presses that button, but it seems that adding two 'fake' movements in the vague direction of the button (even if their position values are hard-coded) is enough to trick it. (great work Google ;p)) It then waits a little bit and does the same for the confirmation dialogue, then clicks on the previous day button and loops back to the top.  
     
    If the script is clicking in the wrong places here's what you need to do:
    Go to the Timeline and hover your cursor over the bin button. Hit Ctrl + F and take note of the values inside the dialogue box. Find the section of code that says ";Click on Bin Icon" Find "Click, 579, 352" (the first click command) and replace the first number with the X value from the dialogue box and the second number with the Y value. Do the same for the second click command, but this time subtract ~20 from the X value Now find the two MouseMove commands above the click commands and set their values to the first click's position, but this time add and subtract from both the X and the Y values a random number between 50 and -50 (eg. If your X value is 10 and your Y is 40, you would set the first move command to something like "MouseMove, 60, -10). Be pretty random, these values should not break the script. Go back to the Timeline and now click on the bin icon, and once the confirmation dialogue has appeared, hover your cursor over the "Delete Day" button, press Ctrl + F and paste those values inside ";Click on Confirm" just like you did at step 4 (note, this time there is only one click command and you don't need to subtract 20 from X.) Find the MouseMove commands of the ";Click on Confirm" section, hit Ctr + F and change them as in step 6 Go back to the Timeline and hover over the Previous Day button (to the left of the bin), hit Ctrl + F, and follow steps 4 & 6 (or 7 & 8), but inside the  ";Click on Previous Day". Your script should now work  
  8. Informative
    Grx reacted to LAwLz in OS encryption results in 1/4th the speed of my HDD   
    Full disk encryption is generally a bad idea on hard drives. Your CPU can handle it very well, as you can see in the sequential read tests (and also the fact that it supports AES-NI), but once you start doing random read and writes your hard drive will have to seek much more with an encrypted drive than with an encrypted one, and as you can see that really affects performance.
     
     
    Several reasons why Veracrypt is better than Bitlocker. The big one is that Bitlocker is closed source and you can therefore not validate that it doesn't have backdoors. In fact, having recovery keys is one of the selling points of Bitlocker to big corporations. 
    His computer might not have a TPM chip either.
  9. Informative
    Grx reacted to porina in How are things with Meltdown And Spectre nowadays?   
    Meltdown: Intel only, patched via Windows Updates. If you're up to date on them, you're fine.
     
    Spectre: Requires microcode update on both Intel and AMD. On Intel side, first version had stability problems, they updated it again and that seems to have done the trick. Look for March or newer bios for the good one (not sure of exact date of availability). Check mobo manufacturer for updated bios availability. Skylake and newer is generally ok, limited support before that, more towards higher end mobos of the time like some X99 or Z97. Alternatively I believe MS have a manual Windows Update that installs microcode in software, which might be the only option for older CPUs who will never get mobo bios. AMD have said they will provide AGESA update but I'm not aware of this being available yet.
     
    Android: believe patches have been made available but not sure on exact timescale or deployment.
  10. Informative
    Grx reacted to Mira Yurizaki in How are things with Meltdown And Spectre nowadays?   
    Hardware that's vulnerable to Meltdown and Spectre can be patched through software, but it reduces their performance. How much depends on what you're doing, but most accounts point that the patching, at least the latest and greatest, don't really impact performance as much as feared and it has very little impact on consumer use cases.
     
    Otherwise, obviously a new architecture is needed to be not-vulnerable without a patch.
    The impact on that particular combination is minimal, in that you're likely running a consumer based use case in this scenario. Even in a workstation use case the impact may not be appreciable. It's only server use cases where patching starts to show it's issues.
     
    AMD is vulnerable to Spectre variants GPZ 1 and 2. ARM said that some architectures/processors were affected, but not all.
     
    However, as a side note, take a first party's report of whether or not they're secure or not with a grain of salt. AMD first claimed that they were not vulnerable to variant GPZ 2 because nobody demonstrated it was vulnerable. But a while later they said that GPZ 2 is applicable to them. Any security vulnerability auditing must be done by a third party. If it is done by a first party, they better have a damned intricately detailed report and a method that anyone can use to verify their claims.
  11. Agree
    Grx reacted to Valkyrie Lenneth in Can't copy a 32Gb zip file to a 58Gb Usb (formated NTFS)   
    ah so it was just a allocation issue there next time make sure to adjust this to the files used hehe
    so ur stick is all fine
     
    theres always 2 options > split the files or change allocation size
  12. Agree
    Grx reacted to Nardella in Corridor Calls Out LTT on RED Video   
    And I am looking forward to WAN show this week!
  13. Agree
    Grx reacted to AlexTheGreatish in We Built the CHEAPEST PC on Newegg   
    Yup, I was just rearing to get things done early this morning, it'll go public around noon but figured you guys wouldn't mind seeing it a bit early.
  14. Informative
    Grx reacted to Lord Nicoll in We Built the CHEAPEST PC on Newegg   
    Where's the PC, all I see is a pile of potatoes. 
  15. Funny
    Grx reacted to AlexTheGreatish in We Built the CHEAPEST PC on Newegg   
    A good budget PC build makes sacrifices where it can, but what about a build that is only sacrifices?
     
    Buy Cheap PC Components on Amazon: http://geni.us/aLQ1
     
    Buy Cheap CPUs on Newegg: http://geni.us/c8fQl
    Buy Cheap RAM on Newegg: http://geni.us/AvNeA
    Buy a Cheap Motherboard on Newegg: http://geni.us/qFAN
    Buy a Cheap Power Supply on Newegg: http://geni.us/gpCmig
    Buy a Cheap Case on Newegg: http://geni.us/0ceF
    Buy a Cheap HDD on Newegg: http://geni.us/0Q8uMht
    Buy probably the best GPU on Newegg: http://geni.us/GHyx8O
     
     
  16. Informative
    Grx reacted to WkdPaul in CRTC (Canada) bans cellhpones unlocking fees   
    The CRTC (Canadian Radio-television and Telecommunications Commission) just issued a ruling stating that service providers can't charge for phone unlocking and that from December 1st, all new phones sold have to be unlocked.
     
     
    It's about time IMO, here in Canada we keep being screwed over by "the big 3" (Bell, Telus & Rogers). I would be happy to buy new big brand phones if they weren't so locked down, though in the end they might simply offset that cost into the phones or plans, we'll see I guess!
     
    Source;
    http://www.cbc.ca/news/business/crtc-wireless-code-cellphone-1.4161711
  17. Like
    Grx got a reaction from Ordinarily_Greater in Really comfortable headphones for around 100$   
    &
    I'd prefer an open-back pair of headphones... I don't really like how closed-back headphones isolate the sound and the closed-back headphones I had in the past became uncomfortable if I wore them for long at a time, tough I haven't tested any other headphones...
    Unfortunately not, that's only for 558's and up.
    Will try, thanks!
  18. Agree
    Grx reacted to revl8er in Really comfortable headphones for around 100$   
    Ah, ok that explains it then.  Not sure on the difference in price between the US and Romania.  You could try the Hyper x clouds, but the sound quality might be a bit lower than the 518s.  
  19. Agree
    Grx reacted to Railgun in Really comfortable headphones for around 100$   
    I have the HyperX Cloud II's and they are on the high end of the comfort scale for $100 headphones
  20. Like
    Grx got a reaction from Bouzoo in Laptop cooler/ cooling pad for use on lap/ in bed   
    Alright then, thank you very much for the recommendation!
  21. Funny
    Grx reacted to Froody129 in Hackers Leak Orange is the new black Season 5 with more to come.   
    I feel like all these hacker group's names were chosen by 5 year olds...
  22. Informative
    Grx reacted to Chiders in Hackers Leak Orange is the new black Season 5 with more to come.   
    The hacking group 'thedarkoverlord' (-Twitter) Has hacked into a LA ADR company and released the new season of OITNB (Orange Is The New Black).
    They have spoken to torrent freak about this and claim to have large amounts of unreleased content from both film and television.
     
    thedarkoverlord was in talks with Larson Studios in an attempt to hold the content they had stolen ransom for the price of 50 Bitcoins (~£51,819.00) 
    Larson Studios signed the contract agreeing to this however failed to pay the requested 50 Bitcoins 
     
     
    It looks like thedarkoverloard means serious business about the content they are holding as leverage and it is possible we may see more leaks in the near future....
     
    From thedarkoverlords twitter;
     
    The stolen content is not complete to broadcast quality and will contain audio errors, missing ADR and audio levels before they are properly mixed. The Video quality will also be missing its final touches such as colour grade.
     
    Original article;
    https://torrentfreak.com/hackers-leak-netflixs-orange-is-the-new-black-season-5-premiere-170429/
     
  23. Like
    Grx got a reaction from kirashi in What free disk imaging software do you use?   
    I'd like to do it myself.
     
    And I do have a 64gb usb that I bought for backuping my important files on it, but after I saw the techquickie video on Drive Images, I thought I'd keep one on it too.
    &
    Thank you, I'll give them a try
     
     
  24. Informative
    Grx reacted to kirashi in What free disk imaging software do you use?   
    The best backup system is one that is platform agnostic, redundant, open-source, non-obfuscated, and of course, one you actually test doing a restore with once you've backed up. That rules out Time Machine on MacOS, Windows 7 Backup (this is still an option in Win 10) and WIM images, Crashplan, Backblaze, and many other solutions on the market, because they all either obfuscate the data, or are closed-source and rely on specific operating systems to restore the data.
     
    Personally, I'm a big fan of RAW file duplication, which I achieve using StableBit Drive Pool with my dual SSDs and dual HDDs. To be clear, this is NOT a backup, since it's still inside my active system, but it ensures redundancy without using the atrocity that is hardware RAID. For actual backups, personally I'm a big fan of TAR archives for files that don't change much, such as my RAW photo imports (before editing), and rclone for more complicated stuff.
     
    I don't use rclone yet because I have no real NAS to backup to, but it's on my roadmap. For smaller more critical files, like documents, taxes, and other frequently accessed files I like DropBox Pro because it's simple and works better than any other file sync client I've tried. Plus, you can restore any revisions of files changed or deleted within 30 days, or longer if you pay for the extension period. And it's the ONLY cloud based file sync client that reliably works on Linux without fiddling about with 3rd party workarounds. To me, these features outweigh the proprietary nature of Dropbox in every way, at least until something better comes along.
     
    Now, to answer your disk imaging question: DriveImageXML is a great option, although not exactly open-source, along with my tried and true favorite, CloneZilla.
  25. Funny
    Grx reacted to tt2468 in Can I install a cracked version of win10 on a laptop that already came with it?   
    mods are asleep, post nintendo roms!
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