Grx

Darn, I thought if they supported both gpu skus there may be a chance

Yeah, but a gpu enclosure adds another $300 on top of the new gpu's price and you also loose the portability of the laptop...

Hi, I was planning on buying the new xps 17 when it launches, but I'm not sure which gpu to pick: the 1650ti or the 2060. The 1650ti would probably be good enough for my use, but since I don't plan on upgrading for another 4-5 years, the extra power of the 2060 is pretty alluring. (I'm currently using an xps 15 9550 with a 960m) So I wanted to ask if you guys think I could purchase the 1650ti version and later (if I need the extra power) find somewhere to buy a replacement 2060 gpu to put in? Or would the motherboard be incompatible with different gpus? Thanks!

You can disable it, but Google still has the old data. Also Google was found a little while back ignoring that setting and collecting data anyway, so I don't fully trust them... (source: https://www.theverge.com/2017/11/21/16684818/google-location-tracking-cell-tower-data-android-os-firebase-privacy) I believe it's AutoHotKey's own language, but I could be wrong. (This was the first time I used it)

If you don't know already, Google keeps a record of when and where you've been if you have Google Maps open or if you use an Android phone (I don't think this is an issue on Iphones, I don't have one to test). Good thing is, you can delete it, bad thing is, you can only do so one date at a time (and each date takes 3 clicks to delete) so it takes ages to delete all of it by hand. I got a bit annoyed by this today and (after I couldn't find any good auto-clickers online that also move the mouse) I decided to make my own with AutoHotKey (btw, this was the first time I used AutoHotKey, so I'm sorry if the script is messy) Few things to do/note before you open the script: Once the script is started, you can not use the mouse. To stop the script hold down P (it is a little un-responsive, but it shouldn't take more than a second) If for some reason you can not stop the script, signing out of windows (with Ctrl + Alt + Del) also stops the script. The position of the buttons is hard-coded because I could not figure out how to use variables. If the script is clicking in the wrong places, you can either a) set your monitor resolution to 1080p and see if it works, or b) change the values inside the script. (check out the last section of this topic) Go to the Timeline and click on the newest date that has some location history (highlighted in blue) Hit Ctrl + G to start the script (it will delete that day and then move to the previous day) Sometimes the script will get out of sinc or Google will not delete a date (as far as I could figure out this would happen at random, with or without the script running). If this happens, hold down P, go back to the date that was missed and hit Ctrl + G again. (it might need to be deleted a few times) You can not recover the location data after it is deleted. After you are done, reload the page, click on the selected month, select "Month - all" and scroll through the timeline to check if you've deleted all of it. How to run the script: Install AutoHotKey Right click on the desktop, select New - AutoHotkey Script Right click on it and select Edit Paste the text in the 'spoiler' inside of it, save and then right click - Run (You may need to run it as administrator) As you can see, the script is very basic. I would've liked to add variables for the button positions and possibly even a color/image check to find the exact position of the buttons, but I didn't have a lot of time and this script works well enough, so whatever How it works: It checks if the key combination Ctrl + G is pressed and triggers the loop In the loop, it checks if the key P is pressed and if it is, it stops the loop It then moves the mouse towards the bin icon's position, clicks once, then moves slightly to the left and clicks again. This is because dates with more location data have a scrollbar and it moves the bin button to the left. (It also jitters the mouse before clicking because Google has an algorithm that checks the movement of the mouse before it presses that button, but it seems that adding two 'fake' movements in the vague direction of the button (even if their position values are hard-coded) is enough to trick it. (great work Google ;p)) It then waits a little bit and does the same for the confirmation dialogue, then clicks on the previous day button and loops back to the top. If the script is clicking in the wrong places here's what you need to do: Go to the Timeline and hover your cursor over the bin button. Hit Ctrl + F and take note of the values inside the dialogue box. Find the section of code that says ";Click on Bin Icon" Find "Click, 579, 352" (the first click command) and replace the first number with the X value from the dialogue box and the second number with the Y value. Do the same for the second click command, but this time subtract ~20 from the X value Now find the two MouseMove commands above the click commands and set their values to the first click's position, but this time add and subtract from both the X and the Y values a random number between 50 and -50 (eg. If your X value is 10 and your Y is 40, you would set the first move command to something like "MouseMove, 60, -10). Be pretty random, these values should not break the script. Go back to the Timeline and now click on the bin icon, and once the confirmation dialogue has appeared, hover your cursor over the "Delete Day" button, press Ctrl + F and paste those values inside ";Click on Confirm" just like you did at step 4 (note, this time there is only one click command and you don't need to subtract 20 from X.) Find the MouseMove commands of the ";Click on Confirm" section, hit Ctr + F and change them as in step 6 Go back to the Timeline and hover over the Previous Day button (to the left of the bin), hit Ctrl + F, and follow steps 4 & 6 (or 7 & 8), but inside the ";Click on Previous Day". Your script should now work

I had been using a Sony Z3 compact for about 3 years and I really liked it. The stock camera app is trash, but after I downloaded the "Open Camera" app, the photos looked way better. I also really liked the What's New app because it would give away a paid app/game for free each day. I know, I'm a cheapskate LTT has made multiple videos on Sony phones, so maybe check those out too.

Thank God the CPU isn’t the problem So would upgrading to an SSD solve the problem? If yes, would a sata III m.2 do the trick, or should I splurge for a NVMe m.2?

Bump

It's a pro only feature.

Hi there, I had encrypted my OS drive with VeraVrypt, but it took ~5 minutes to boot into windows 10 and be able to open something... I have re-installed windows on the drive to retry the encryption, thinking maybe that will fix the problem (it didn't), and I also ran a few CrystalDisk Mark tests before and after the encryption. (Something to note, I have also "shrunk" the C: drive from 1Tb to 470Gb so it wouldn't take as long to encrypt. Don't know if that affects performance or not.) As you can see, "Test 2" was done before encryption, I was getting 1.2 - 1.3 MB/s in the first two 4KiB tests and 0.4 MB/s Reads in the last, but after encryption, strangely the sequential speeds got a bit faster, the Writes dropped a litle bit, but the Reads are now in the 0.2 - 0.3 MB/s range... (I have a 5400Rpm laptop hdd that's around 3yrs old) I was looking into buying an ssd, but then I saw some posts saying that modern cpus can handle encryption just fine and the speed of the HDD shouldn't be affected to much, if at all... So is this a problem with my slow HDD or my CPU? The laptop I use is an XPS 15 9550 with a core i5 6300HQ (running at 2.3GHz) and 8Gb ram (with around 4Gb of it being used)

Hey, so I’ve been on a WAN Show binge for some time and I stumbled upon the one about Meltdown and Spectre. I got curious again about this and I tried googling if and how it’s been resolved, but all the posts I could find were right around that period where things were uncertain, so I thought to post here and ask you guys about it. Have these vulnerabilities been fixed with just some updates or are they impossible to patch and we need new CPUs to get rid of them? I’m mostly interested in how they affect Intel procesors and Windows 10, but I’m also interested in AMD, ARM & the other OS’

Yea, I guess it’s easier to just be carefull and hold a backup of the files. Thanks for the help!

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but for 1000$ wouldn’t you be better off buying a new pc? Or if you want Macos, building a Hackintosh?

Hey there, I’m looking for a way to run 2 versions of Windows 10 on one harddrive so that if one of them gets infected with a virus or malware, the other one is unaffected. I basically want to keep my important files on one of the os’ and put my games and random programs on the other. I’ve looked into VMs (but can’t use them since I also want to game on the guest os) and also sandboxing (but it’s a bit confusing as to what files are inside the sandbox and what aren’t, plus I’ve had some problems with installing games in it...) I’ve also thought of dual booting, but I couldn’t find an answer to wether a virus can infect the other os. Any ideas how I could do this? Thanks!

Bump...

Lol, I've been doing that and have just been using my tablet for internet The powershell script is for checking if it's as protected as possible, not for fixing it. I've been trying to get the Windows updates and the BIOS working to be on the safe side for when i do need to connect to the Internet with my laptop.

Hey there, I've been trying to protect my xps 15 9550 running Windows 10 from the recent Meltdown and Spectre vulnerabilities using this guide from how to geek: I've ran the powershell script, but even though I installed the latest BIOS update from Dell that claims to have resolved the issue (v1.6.1) and Windows says I have installed the latest updates (btw, I have seen the thing about antivirus software screwing with the updates, I have uninstalled them and even checked that the registry key was set correctly, and it was) it still says I'm vulnerable... Do you guys know what I am/could be doing wrong? Thanks!

@Valkyrie Lenneth @djdwosk97 The new format with 64k worked! I'll split the zip into multiple smaller ones so I can also store smaller files on the usb stick, but for now at least I have it on there. Thanks for helping me!

Yea, I see your point =D It's basically one huge archive with all of my important files. I'll split it into parts and see how it goes.

The error it gives me is that there is not enough space on the stick. It apparently needs 6Gb more... Also, as you can see in the picture below, within a couple of seconds it already filled to 26Gb (somehow), but when I refreshed the page it would go down by 0.1Gb until it would stop and then go back up...

Sorry, didn't see it... Yes, it's from Kingston (DTR 3.0 G2) and bought it from a good site from here.

Sure, give me a minute to get them. I see... I'll try to format it to use 64k and see if it works.

Hey, I'm trying to copy this 32Gb zip file to my 58Gb Usb (formated with NTFS), but it somehow doesn't fit, even if the drive is fully empty... I tried re-formatting the drive, but it still happens. Got any idea why this may be?

It's still quite recent. (Also changed the title)

"It does reflect on his personal opinion and on his credibility as source of information"