ASWprime

Tried taking the mic apart and seemingly made the problem worse. Pulled the trigger and got a new AT2020 and fixed the problem immediately. Guess this was all to justify not spending $85. Thanks for all the help!

Oh I'm sorry i misunderstood. Just tried it and no, there is no static through direct monitoring without the mic plugged in. Mic went bad you think? I have had it for a few years and it was bought second hand even then. And to answer your question from your previous post, I don't have an adapter to test a different audio source.

Yeah the problem persists after reseating all connections. The XLR cables to the mic and the interface, the USB cable to my PC, everything has been unplugged and replugged with no improvement.

No nothing changed. It just sounded fine and then it didn't. Now every time I reboot it sounds fine for about a minute and then goes back to static.

I have had some audio issues that I am at my wits end with. For reference, my audio setup is an Audio Technica AT2020 connected to Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 2nd Gen originally and now a 3rd Gen audio interface. I’m on Windows 11 and my PC specs are on my profile. It all started when out of nowhere my Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 2nd Gen was having issues with static. In audacity, in Discord, when listening to the mic through Windows, and through monitoring on the audio interface I could hear a strong static that would eventually drown out my voice. At this point I tried the following in order: Uninstalled and reinstalled drivers for the audio interface - Reinstalled motherboard audio drivers - Reseated cables (USB and XLR from both sides) - Tried different USB ports on my motherboard, case front panel, and PCIe USB card - Switched out cables (Both uSB and XLR, with the new XLR being a balanced cable) - Played with different sample rates and buffer sizes in the Focusrite drivers - Applied ferrite chokes to the all of the cables connected to the interface - Updated Windows - Cried tears of mental frustration - Plugged PC into multiple different outlets in the wall and on power strips - Unplugged other devices that are on the same circuit - Tried the interface on my laptop and had the same issue At this point I figured I had tried everything so I reached out to Focusrite support as my interface was still under warranty and they replaced it with their newer 3rd Gen model because the 2nd Gen was no longer in stock. All I had to change in my setup was switch out the USB type A to B for a USB type A to C, install new drivers and boom, new interface installed. Unfortunately, the problem persisted, still the same static, now with no idea how to fix it. Considering it was still happening and after doing a bit more research I figured it was still electrical interference that was the issue (even though it happened on my laptop, who knows) so I got an iFi iDefender that should provide clean power to the device and take the power supplied by the USB port out of the equation. After integrating that into my setup, it seemed to be fixed… for a few minutes. Clean, unobstructed audio, but only for a bit and then the static crept back in. At this point I have no idea what to do. The only things that I believe it can be are things that I cannot easily troubleshoot: - Bad mic - Outside interference - Windows 11 (could possibly troubleshoot but would be annoying, don't know if it is even plausible that is the issue) - Still somehow bad power delivery even though I tested on a laptop that was not connected to the mains Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I’ll even take an “I’m also having this issue” because then I won’t feel so alone.

Oh, alright nice, I'll do that instead, and as far as your previous comment I upped the DRAM voltage to 1.4V and I did successfully get into windows. I then restarted to make sure and now it again will not boot at 3000MHz even at 1.4V.

No I'm just using the two that I was using before, the Viper kit specifically and alright I'll give a clear CMOS a try later, have to remove my GPU to get at the battery.

I'm having this very strange issue with my memory. I bought two new sticks, these ones in fact, and paired them with my current memory. I KNOW, I know, don't mix brands, but I did it because the two sets have the same rated frequency and similar timings though not identical. Regardless, I installed the new memory and my PC did not boot, so I took out the new memory and re-seated the old only to be met with a boot failure and being kicked to the bios. No matter what I did I could not get my PC to boot with even just the old RAM, UNTIL I set the frequency to 2133MHz. The highest speed I can get out of the kit as of now is 2800MHz, so basically the memory will not run at its rated speed now after installing an uninstalling that new memory. Any ideas? Things I have tried: - Updating to newest BIOS/resetting BIOS to defaults and then changing the frequency - Setting memory speed via XMP and manually And some other system specs just in case it helps: CPU: 8700k @ 4.6GHz Mobo: Gigabyte Z370P-D3 PSU: Raidmax Cobra 1000W 80+ Gold

It does actually, good idea on that. From what I have seen on other platforms that I posted this question on there have been some instances of what I have experienced. Yeah I run the client on my PCs rather than my router. I'm gonna replace it at this point, I've wanted to do a mesh setup for a long time anyways. Thanks for the reply!

Any fix other than strapping a fan to it?

I have tried and tried and I cannot find the source of my router crashing anywhere from 1 to 4 times a day. I have a Netgear Nighthawk r6700(v3) that is about a year and a half old, I have a Verizon gigabit fiber connection, and I use Private Internet Access. When it crashes three or four lights in the middle of the router turn solid white with all the other lights off for about a second and then seemingly shuts off completely. It then boots back up and sometimes seemingly goes through many power cycles over several minutes. This happens in a few scenarios and is not consistent at all, sometimes one of these things will trigger the router to crash, other times it will not. Turning on PIA and attempt to connect Powering on any one of the three PCs that I have connected via ethernet to a switch that runs to the router or directly to the router itself Switching PIA to another region While LEGALLY torrenting Randomly for seemingly no reason I've been troubleshooting this for months and have tried all of the following: Giving the router its own outlet (it was previously plugged into a very busy power strip) Moved its position for fear it was overheating Keep firmware up to date (I do this manually, I do not have my router set to auto-update) Factory reset the router Changed the default DNS twice Power cycled it more times than I can count Got rid of high bandwidth use start up programs Also the router logs have been no help as they just seem to treat the disconnect as a power-cycle and start over when I look at them afterwards. I'm at my wit's end with this shit but I think I have it narrowed down to it being the VPN due to how much it seems to crash in situations surrounding it, or it may be a hardware issue. In either case, is it possible that PIA is the cause? Is there a background service on startup that is causing it? Is it something else entirely? Please if you have any idea, let me know and thank you so much in advance.

Yeah max fps performance is my major concern. I'd gladly bump down graphics settings to the minimum in any competitive game to achieve a steady 144. In terms of games MW is definitely on the stream list and some CPU bound games like Civ and Cities Skylines are as well so that was why I was tossing around the idea of a second system. I think I'll try a few more streams using just my rig before I invest any further as was advised but I appreciate the second opinion. And thanks, everyone should give Carpenter Brut a listen.

Alright fair enough, the experience isn't bad on my PC now using just OBS so I'll probably just stick with that. Thanks!

I, like everyone else in the world, want to get into streaming. I don't want to do it professionally but it has always seemed like a fun thing to passively do. As of right now I have an 8700k in my main system (OC'ed to 5GHz) and I've streamed off of just that with a slight hit to performance. I have a side-system that is an old dell optiplex I use to host the odd minecraft server when my friends and I feel like playing which has an i7-3770 (4 cores, 8 threads.) Would would it be worth converting that PC into a stream PC? Is an aging quad-core enough for 1080p streaming? Thanks in advance.

Sorry for being unclear. I went into the bios to see if there was an option that was restricting the laptop to using integrated graphics and there was not.

I'm having this issue with my laptop. Its a Lenovo Thinkpad E480, within it there is a discrete Radeon RX550 that I cannot use at all, every program (be they a game or otherwise) uses the integrated graphics on the I7-8550U. Here is a list of troubleshooting steps that I have taken: - Reinstalled Radeon graphics drivers - Set custom profiles for programs in the Radeon control panel - Switched laptop to high-performance mode - Disabled Intel graphics from device manager - Went into the bios to see if there was some sort of graphics option but there was not - Scoured the the Intel control panel for a solution only to find nothing If anyone has any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it and thank you in advance.

This may be a dumb question but I just got a 1080 ti for my friend extremely cheap ($200) but it has a blower-style cooler. I have a broken Gigabyte Windforce OC 1070 ti that has a functioning three fan cooler but the actually card is dead. Could I move that cooler over to the 1080 ti? Sorry if this is a stupid question for one reason or another I just cant find a straight answer online. Thanks in advance!

Alright, so, 3/4 times I have turned on my PC for the past few weeks the internet completely shuts off. The router (which sits on top of my PC in my office) the connection status lights either turn off or go orange. I obviously have no internet when this happens and cannot access the router control panel, its as if I just reset it. I have 3 devices connected to it via ethernet (my PC, SO's PC, and a Phillips Hue Bridge) and several others on wifi at any given time. I have a gigabit plan through Verizon and I use a Netgear R6700v3 Nighthawk. I would appreciate any help and I've tried a few things so far: - Restarted the router multiple times - Got rid of high bandwidth use start up programs - Updating the router firmware - Making sure that my router's auto-update feature is off Thank you in advance!

I did install drivers initially, but then I ran into the issue that I had. However, reinstalling the drivers DID seem to fix it. So thank you!

I just got a new mic and an audiobox USB audio interface. I have my microphone plugged in via XLR to the front mic-in, the interface is plugged in via USB to a USB 2.0 port (I have tried both 3.0 and 2.0 and still have this issue.) and my headphones are plugged in via 1/4 inch jack. Once i plugged it in it seemed fine, it showed up in my sound options and I set it as the default recording and playback device. It seemed to play back audio correctly, I could hear myself through the mic and a youtube video played fine until when I tried to record something as a test there is a deafening crackling noise. It actually distorts the audio to be this white noise. I haven't messed with drivers or anything because I wanted to come here for possible answers first. Thank you in advance for any help.

I have this Gigabyte z270 board that has the ssd first in its boot order but it will not boot because its listed in the boot override list. I cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove it from this list. From my understanding boot override is temporary and meant to go away after first boot.

Yeah, it was stupid of me. Oh well, thanks for all the help, I appreciate the time and effort.

Well, I did buy this motherboard from a chinese retailer on ebay. They had good legit-looking reviews and some saying that specifically 3770s worked. But that's what I get, its looking more and more like a mobo problem.

Alright, that almost worked. The screen did display with a memory changed message but then the system shut off, powered back on tge screen flashed a few times and looked like it had a signal but the system shut off again and now its back to nothing.