Ahoy Hoy

I'm after a small monitor to have under my main display preferably smaller than a 16 inch as that's too big. The only problem I'm finding is that everything is trash quality. Horrid colours terrible resolutions etc. with the millions of tablets with decent screens does someone make something around 10inchs with a decent quality display?

Hi I have a 4tb Samsung Sata SSD and there about a terabyte of important photos on it and 3TB of games. I've just finished building a new PC and Im transferring it from a old computer to the new one. How do I add it to the system without having to format it and wiping the data.

I didnt change the USB install that was the same. used the same m.2 port did multiple install attempts on the WD750 and formatted the drive every time. Tried so many different settings in bios with the WD750 CSM on CSM off, secure boot. I wont sell the WD750 not worth the effort there like 50 quid new on clearance at the moment. Probably buy a M.2 external enclosure and use it for storage of video files. It worked fine in the laptop as my second SSD

Both installs the only drive in the system was the drive I wanted it to boot off. I changed nothing but aa used but formated drive with a brand new one

@leclod I fixed it and got it to work. I went down to Sainsbury's bought a Samsung 980 pro 1tb and installed that first try. In other news I have a 1tb Western digital SSD for sale.

no, id prefer not to as its a mitx and the other m.2 slot is very difficult to get to. Probably have to remove the GPU, half my fans and unplug a good amount of the cables. Preferably not either as currently it has nearly 3tb of games installed on it and that would take a while to redownload.

yep first thing i did

I did anyway even without seeing the drive as bootable and it still didn't boot. just went into blank screen with text saying insert a bootable drive and restart

Followed that process and got to step 8 when I got back into the BIOS it didn't list my NVME drive as an option in the boot list.

In the BIOS is seeing the WDBlack 1TB m.2 drive as the only storage connecting to the computer. I've downloaded Windows 11 and gone through the install process, it restarts after successfully installing. I've unplugged my USB with the Windows install on and the system says there are no bootable drives. System: CPU: Intel Core i5-12400F 2.5 GHz 6-Core Processor CPU Cooler: ARCTIC Liquid Freezer III A-RGB 48.82 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler Motherboard: Asus ROG STRIX B660-I GAMING WIFI Mini ITX LGA1700 Motherboard Memory: Corsair Dominator Platinum RGB 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-5200 CL40 Memory Storage: Western Digital Black SN750 SE 1 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive Storage: Samsung 870 QVO 4 TB 2.5" Solid State Drive (not plugged in currently) Video Card: Zotac GAMING Trinity GeForce RTX 3080 Ti 12 GB Video Card Power Supply: Corsair SF850L 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply Case: Corsair 2000D

It's so annoying that Apple thinks people don't need PCI slots. Have you ever tried to run an SDI input card to an Apple device through a USB adapter? it goes terribly, if it's a MacBook and you close the lid you also get the fun that all your routing changes. I still have the intel version and it's great. I wouldn't mind using an Apple silicon version but I don't want to spend three grand for PCI slots. If they made a desktop size mac studio with PCI cards and charge a extra grand for it, I would buy it and know multiple industries which would use it. But they don't so they currently use mac studios with a stupid amount of USB to HDMI adapters and things will eventually go wrong. also my nokia 950L was great, windows phones were great.

This is the most real comment ever. there was a guy on this forum a couple of years back, clearly very wealthy and he spent 5k+ on his headphone set up amps dacs the whole whack. He got his wife/girlfriend to blind A B test him. He couldn't tell the difference he got it wrong multiple times he couldn't figure out what was what. IMO if you are buying those stupidly expensive headphones with multiple 0s in the price tag spending extra money on amps and dacs, sure you passed the price to performance many thousands ago. But if you are buying mainstream headphones from the likes of Sennheiser, Beyer etc. They design their headphones to be used with modern (last ten years) electronics. Why you may ask, because they don't want to have to get a phone call every day to customer support saying my new headphones don't work with my iPhone I want a refund. If you are getting mainstream headphones and have a modern electronic device which isn't the cheapest rubbish on Temu, you don't need to waste money on a DAC and amp. Or at the bare minimum. Get the headphones first try it and if you are having background noise, interference etc get a DAC. If they don't go loud enough get an amp.

In the politest way possible. That's stupid and a waste of money. getting a mixer to mix multiple sources to different outputs. Perfectly acceptable. Spending a chunk of money on a headphone amp even though MacBooks have great built in audio and if your computer is not the cheapest rubbish you can find probably also has a perfectly acceptable and capable audio system. Both will probably run the HD650 with no problems because they are not one of these one off specialist headphones with stupid impedance and low sensitivity. Obviously, a shop advises you to spend money on things they sell. My recommendation on headphone amplification for 99.99% of headphones is to test it first on the device you want to use and if it's loud enough without interference/background noise etc. Then it's good enough and an extra piece of equipment will change nothing. The obvious downfall is you have a decent audio sauce in the MacBook and computer going through what is a cheap crappy mixer and most likely the cheapest cables you found on Amazon (before you say cables don't matter, they do, cheap crap is cheap crap, expensive snake oil is expensive bollcocks, but decent quality at the correct price is what you should buy) going to an expensive amp. Since I'm two weeks late to the party and you've probably bought this. Test it. Listen to the headphones in your system as said, then plug them directly into the MacBook and computer (adjust the volume to about the same). Can you tell a difference?

Sounds like general background hiss. Your gain structure is probably set up badly. Try turning up the audio interface gain and windows volume down, and vice versa.

I built my parent's security system with blue iris. Its a one time purchase like others said but you get a year's worth of updates and then have to pay for more updates. So Ive bought it once then about five years later paid for the upgrade. Works on any windows computer and can be a little confusing but the online guides and youtube videos are exceptional and you'll easily have any networked camera system up and running. You can also just used a simple 3g USB dongle to provide internet to the computer to allow you to view the footage yourself. You can also set up text and email notifications when blue iris spots something ie car license plate or a person, don't do it on a camera near a footpath or road otherwise enjoy the spam.

Cat cables with a switch in the middle to extend the range. So if you have a shed with power halfway or something. Depending on distance a basic WIFI extender.

@LinusTech I would love to know if you have binned this cable yet before someone kills themselves

Does anyone know if the flashstore is coming to the UK?

Get the sennhiesier ie300. Sound amazing, really good low end really thumpy for a IEM which is not a normal thing

Just contact beyer they have a decent repair program and most countries have a third party repair guy who they will recommend if your out of their influence. They also charge reasonable prices for repair. https://europe.beyerdynamic.com/service/repairs

@JordB Just like to point out that the power connection on that computer is wrong. the connection is a neutrik powercon, but it’s white which is the male connector and should be used for power out of a product not in. You have a male to male cable. the computer should have a blue connection on it which would be the input. very dangerous shouldn’t be used, if you have other products like your lights with power con and plug that in you’ll have live power on the pins of the Chinese plug.

Depends on what the microphone is and what you already have and what you want to spend. If you got some USB mic do it with voicemeeter or some other digital way got a XLR mic, depends what equipment you got. Maybe a active splitter, maybe just taking a line out of a interface. got nothing, depends what you want to spend.

You wont blow your headphones. To blow your headphones they will be producing a volume of just under 112dB, which at a inch from your ear drum is insanely loud and would cause hearing damage if you regularly do it for less then a minuet. obviously you turn it up all the way and rock out, but in the grand schemes headphones are cheap and replaceable your ear isnt.

For the best sound the box will be infinite big. https://www.diyaudioandvideo.com/Calculator/SpeakerBoxVolume/

Have a look at the rode podmic. about £100 decent mic. Easier to run compared to the shure stuff, the GoXLR doesnt have the strongest amplification so probably struggle but the rode should handle fine.