VioletGiraffe

Worth trying a disk swap initially. Best case it works (after updating any drivers). Worst case you need that reinstall. If like me you have a lot of software and settings configured, setting up a new install can be a major pain.

Considering B760 motherboards don't allow overclocking I don't think that you would be able to set a max current.

I see, that blows. Appreciate your reply.

http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/06/17/ek-supremacy-mx-review/3/
 
I would not make that upgrade for performnance, aesthetics though is reasonable.  I've been thinking about upgrading my mx to an evo top (pretty sure you can just change the top, just so I can see my Aurora in one more spot.  The stuff looks great in cpu blocks because of their high turbulance
 

Neither, both bad for their price
and have no place in a build like that

Interesting, for my Swiftech MCP350, which pretty much seems to be a clone of the original DDC-1T, it's 2000 rpm. Can't hear it at all at that speed from 30 cm away.
And that is sound advice. I don't think you can go wrong with dual pumps, you don't need to match RPMs or GPM.

They have to test 9 different versions for it, yes 9. In a Covid world where they work from home. The delay is only 3 weeks and I'd rather another delay than ending up with ...another Anthem lol.
 
 they could easily sell more RTX 30 if they made more cards.  ++++

Although not impossible, it seems very difficult to keep objective. 
Ranking by performance with loud fans at the top isn't useful for the general user. Picking an arbitrary noise 'sweet spot' seems necessary for a performance / noise list and dBA isn't everything when the frequency of noise can greatly affect perceived noise. Tests are performed in a variety of environments such as on radiators, case meshes, filters, heatsinks and with louder or quieter noise floors. Lumping them all together doesn't seem very accurate. When separating categories, what's considered high, low, or average restriction is also arbitrary. 
 
There are many individual reviews of popular case fans and not nearly as many large roundup reviews of fans. Most in-depth fan reviews are of models that potentially compete with other quiet of well-performing fans as opposed to LED fans which are generally worse. The chances of finding a large round-up that includes a fan that isn't already very popular is pretty low. 140mm's are also less popular than 120mm's. 
When it comes to looking for comparisons of LED fans, I recommend looking up specific models and reviews comparing it to a well-known fan and doesn't just talk about its lighting. 
 
Here are some roundups:
https://www.comptoir-hardware.com/articles/refroidissement/40052-nous-avons-essaye-les-thermaltake-pure-14-argb-sync.html?start=3
http://www.coolingtechnique.com/recensioni/air-cooling/ventole.html
https://youtu.be/PUdsTiRmuuU?t=803
https://youtu.be/rv1S9RhABa8?t=470
https://www.thelab.gr/reviews/heatsinks-coolers-watercooling-reviews/corsair-ll-140-rgb-pwm-fans-review-r693/
http://thermalbench.com/2017/10/12/corsair-ll140-rgb-140mm-fan/4/
https://www.overclockers.com/15-case-fans-tested-ultimate-140-mm-roundup/
 
There are sites like DVTests that also have multiple fans reviewed but don't lump them into a comparison.
http://www.dvtests.com/category/tests-and-reviews/fans-and-fan-controllers/

Depends on the fan. Different models have different 'sweet spots' and comparing them with rpm is a bit arbitrary when performance is what should ultimately matter. Testing often normalizes for noise or temps.
Have you tried running lower rpm? I personally find NF-A14's very quiet around 550-600rpm. Are you using NF-A14's in push or pull? In pull, the fan blades can be too close to a dust filter or fins which can cause noise that wouldn't be present when fans are in push. 
 
If you wanted to look at fan roundups, there are some results here: https://linustechtips.com/main/topic/1261692-case-fan-review-sites/?do=findComment&comment=14150730
Make sure to quote a post or tag a member when replying or else they won't get a notification that you replied to them.

The PST version means there's some built in splitter to chain the fans and to share the PWM signal. It's (to my knowledge) just a fancy expression for that. The CO version is meant for 24/7 usage. The P14 are pressure optimized, the F14 are not. P14 are all black, the F14 are black frame + white blades

I have one of the two radiators in my case on the intake (that is, air is blown through the rad and into the case), and I don't like it. It gets too hot inside. I suppose you could alleviate the problem by having enough case fans blowing the air through fast, but that's extra noise and extra cost (the fans) just to fix the problem you created in the first place. I don't recommend inward-blowing radiators.

Arctic P14. Cheap as hell,very good performers (among the best if not the best at low revs). The Noctua NF-A14 (Industrial PPC) are good but noisier and you just don't need anything above 1500 rpm obviously. Thin rads benefit less from higher rpms than thicker rads so the 500-1000rpm range is what you want. For the price of 2-3 Arctic P14 you can get 1 Noctua NF-A14.

I'd get one of the two depending on what you want to pay:
 
Scythe Kaze Flex 140. Noiseblocker NB-eLoop B14-2.  

Credit to: @LukeSavenije
 
The following list is based on facts, ranked on power delivery and known problems. The list will include boards that support CPU overclocking available at retail from different brands.
 
There are still differences in performance among boards of the same tier. As a result, those that barely made it into that tier will be in orange while those that are better than others in the same tier are in blue. Unless specified, boards sharing the same name and chipset in different form factors are ranked the same.
 
For advanced users: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1Smj5dh97n32wJqm5dkdDcQt8ID7vH52-lKzaaXUUQx8/edit?usp=sharing
 
AMD
 
All current draw figures are based on Prime95 small FFT with AVX unless otherwise specified, in other words the worst case scenario.
 
Only often recommended sku of CPUs in the same generation and core/thread count configuration is named, others share the same rating.
 
Zen scales down frequency and voltage according to EDC (current limit) and TDC (thermal limit) settings of the motherboard so in theory you won’t cook the VRM of any board at stock, you just lose frequency.
 
For tier A and above, due to lack of feasible CPUs that allow testing of the boards at higher current ratings, there are some level on guessing in terms of how much more power the VRM can take.
 
AM4 (Athlon, Ryzen 3, Ryzen 5, Ryzen 7, Ryzen 9)
 
B550 and X570S Speculation: If you cant find the board above, then it should be here. If it's already up there, then ignore what it's placed here
 
TR4 (Ryzen Threadripper 1xxx and 2xxx) X399
 
sTRX4 (Ryzen Threadripper 3xxx) TRX40 (largely guessing since there's little data)
 
Sources:
 
Legacy list thread: Those looking to dive into Intel's outdated process node and recycled (for many times) architecture please refer to the old list
 

The Samsung UDIMM with manufacturer reference M378A2K43CB1-CRC is a unbuffered DIMM non-ECC DDR4 2400MHz 288Pin
It's an unbuffered non-ecc, so probably work with Ryzen 1700.
At 2400 base clock you'll be lucky if it reach 3000.
 
F4-3200C16D-32GTZSK is Gskill modules, it's a popular brand.

Hello Linus media group ,
 
 
my name is James , I am a certified Apple Technician in Spain.First of all to clarify , I don´t believe this is fair for you , regardless of the origin of the damage. For the components that you mentioned that are damaged ( LCD , MLB and PSU) you would have to get replacement parts , but with a catch , the screen if it´s only shattered would be at a standard cost , but if the logic board and power supply have been tampered by non authorized party , the price of the part is increased. This is known as STOCK price. 
 
 
I would suggest speaking with any authorized service provider / Apple premium service to get this sorted and make sure to speak with a technician and mention the stock price for the parts. Another option is to call AppleCare and mention the full story and try to make an exception (Known  as a CS Code)
 
As I mentioned , I am in Spain and hard to do anything from that distance , but if you provide your iMac serial number I will check all that I can do for you guys.
 
 
For any information or questions please contact me at james_ibz@hotmail.com 
 
 
 
 
Kind regards , 
 
 
 
 
 
James Brooks 
 
 
 

Travel to Shengen and have it repaired while you wait for $100 plus parts.

I literally registered just to tell everyone here to stay the fuck away from Apple. 
You're welcome.

Definitely a disappointment on #teamApple. That being said, I don't think this would really wreck their standing with their user-base which is also kind of sad but hey, that's the power of branding. 
 
 

I would show this to wall street and their shareholders 
 
I'm pretty sure that would get you a helpful and positive reply in the end

I am part of an AASP company, and certified in all Apple Devices for repairs, and I want to start by saying that it is quite a nightmare to go through Repairs and get parts needed for repairs. 
 
To start, just going through the process to get parts ordered takes forever. It doesn't matter if you know for certain which part is needed, you have to go through their troubleshooting guides which are both a nightmare in their wording, and send you in circles when it comes to testing. 
 
Second, I have done a repair for the iMac pro recently (within the past 3 weeks) and was able to get a Logic Board, Screen and Power Supply without issue. Granted I am in NYC so it is possible they had a supplier close by. The repair process was a pain (as are most Apple Repairs) and the turn around time you have to do the repair is only 10 days. That means from the moment you receive the part, you have 10 days to install it, serialize it in the system and send the old part back for shipping. 10 days doesn't seem like a short amount of time, but when the part you ordered requires other parts that are broken to test, 10 days flies by. 
 
Third, in my 5 years of doing Apple Repairs, I have never had them turn around and tell me they weren't able to receive the part and thus the repair would be decline. What most likely happened, and what I have seen in the past, is that the store had no certified employees for iMac Pro repairs, so none of them were able to order the needed parts. If that isn't the case, then you were straight up lied to. From the day the product is available for shipping, items are available for order (I have had this happen on multiple ocassions, including the day 1 release of the Mac Pro Trash Can video card recall). 
 
Lastly, the parts you need to replace are a complete pain. With Apple's new Security in-place, and with High Sierra, getting everything to function properly blows. There are issues with screen brightness, drives not running at proper speeds, etc.. I wouldn't be surprised if you do get this thing repaired, that you won't have issues at a later date. 
 
Hopefully you guys can find an AASP within a short drive of you to have the part(s) ordered and repaired. Granted, the repair cost for a screen, logic board and PSU are going to be pretty insane. 

Jesus, talk about putting the crap in crApple.

IPS or VA is a selling point.  If it doesn't mention the panel type, then it's a TN panel.

Maybe spend 10 seconds next time and search for the right drives?

I'm also using those RAMs
Version 5.39 ... so Hynix sadly.
 
It doesn't go above 2933MHz. I can run it at 2933 and CL14, but it won't post if I use 3066/3200/3400 even if I use timings between 14 and 20. Even tried 1,45V and still wouldn't wok.
 
So 2933MHz CL14 at 1,36V seems to be a wall for me.
Guess I will have to live with it untill Zen2 comes around ... or if Intel decided to start soldering i9 CPUs lol