TrantaLocked

I don't know about the outlets and am not interested in trying to re-create the freeze. The house was built in the 50s and renovated in the late 90s, but I'm not sure exactly what renovations were made. These errors also occur when I initiate a regular safe shutdown or when Windows update runs, according to the event history. It's possible that as I was force shutting down when the freeze happened, Windows was still able to report some things and that the drive errors were just associated with the shutdown and not the freeze. That type of freeze (where the audio locks into a repeating note and Windows is completely frozen) is something I've seen with faulty memory and unstable CPU overclocks. I am currently overclocking the CPU, but it is "stable" (as in stable in everything besides prolonged Prime95). Memory was checked with memtest86 only a few weeks ago and is fine. One unlikely possibility is the RAM though. I know that my RAM can error a bit if I set my tREFI value to max combined with high room humidity. tREFI is known for making RAM unstable when ambient temperatures are warm or humid. My room was humid because I was sweating from all the work I was doing, but the thing is that I already had my tREFI value set to a more safe value even though it's still in the "tuned" tier and not completely stock tREFI. Even still it's possible when I pushed the computer some kind of change in air pressure or temperature caused an error on the RAM. Thankfully the computer has been running fine for an hour since I restarted with no new errors in event viewer.

Hard wood flooring. It's an mATX case. The SSD is mounted vertically on a corsair metal mounting bracket which is mounted to the front face of the computer sort of where case fans would go on modern gaming cases. Power supply is EVGA SuperNova 550 G2, with an i7-5775c and DDR3 RAM.

It's a Samsung 850 EVO SSD, but I have new info from event viewer right before the freeze happened. Three total errors occurring at the same exact time: Error: The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Harddisk4\DR4. Error: The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Harddisk3\DR3. Error: The driver detected a controller error on \Device\Harddisk2\DR2. I did an sfc /scannow and no issues were detected. Must have been some momentary short in the SSD's controller, maybe from static buildup or the vibration, but it seems fine now. Also interesting is that I saw a few of the same errors in event viewer 30-45 minutes beforehand, implying that the first time I moved the computer there were errors that also occured but didn't cause a system lockup. I geuss it could be the placement of my SSD in the chassis as it's mounted vertically to a bracket inside instead of horizontally in the drive bay. Or maybe SSDs just don't like that kind of vibration? Not sure but good to know not to move it while it's on. In fact, in my event history most of any error messages I can find are usually disk controller warnings. They do usually occur right before a regular computer shutdown or a windows update. But the vibration could still be related, not sure.

I was doing cleaning behind my desk and had my computer (on floor) and desk scooched up a bit, with music playing from the computer to my speakers. After I finished cleaning, I pushed the computer back to where it usually is and while I was pushing it the music and Windows completely froze. I did a hard restart and everything is back to normal, but I do want to know exactly what caused this to happen. Maybe a temporary short somewhere due to the vibration?

I upgraded my laptop display and it works fine 99% of the time, but there's a problem where if the picture on display is too high a percentage of one shade of red or blue, or isn't "diverse" in color enough, it will flicker and black screen. So I can watch a pixel test video in regular screen but in full screen, the red and blue slides will just black screen my display. It seems the threshold is about 2/3 of the display. The more homogeneous the colors are on screen the more likely I will get flickering, so I even see occasional flickering in YouTube videos but very very rarely. Stock screen was 1366x768, new is 1080p but the eDP cable pinouts are the same and the cable wiring appeared to be 2-lane capable, voltages pretty much the same in datasheets but I need to go back and check.Any idea what is going on? Edit: my current solution here, but still don't understand fully what is going on

A display I'm looking at to upgrade a laptop to, model NV156FHM-N4B, has "H-sync" (H-Sync for active pen) at pin 24 according to the datasheet. I assume this is for G-Sync support but I'm not sure, but it would be nice to know what it is and if it's necessary. I'm choosing between display upgrades for a laptop and really want this specific one for its high contrast ratio and color gamut, but the one problem is that my stock display doesn't use pin 24 on the 30-pin EDP connector, and after examining the stock eDP cable there is indeed no wiring for that pin. Maybe my laptop's firmware supports H-sync on that pin but probably not. It's an HP-15bs234wm. So, if all other necessary data/power/ground pins are compatible, am I safe to at least try this display out and expect it to work?

I could maybe turn the main case fan around so it blows inward. What do you think about that? I'll also try out the tRFC values, but I'd need to wait for it to be humid enough again because I've already aired out my room enough that it probably won't give me worse case scenario tests at the moment.

It may seem obvious that a 2-lane EDP cable is backwards compatible with WXGA screens designed for 1-lane cables, but I want to make sure this is the case. I intend on testing a 2-lane cable coming in the mail with my existing 768p screen. I thought, well if the cable at least works with my existing screen then I can feel safer to order the new 1080p screen, but now I'm doubting even that. The stock cable in the laptop is a standard 30 to 30-pin, 1-lane EDP cable. I assume that because different cables exist in the first place that the pin-out on the cable is different, unless it's just a cable quality thing like with standard vs high speed HDMI cables?

It would be cool to get some advice on my situation. I had an OC on my CPU and memory that initially tested fine and was running well for over a year. But recently, after I encountered a Chrome bug that made me suspicious, I wanted to double check, and after some trial and error with memtes86 v8.2 I found that my tREFI value was the culprit for new memory errors that show up within the first few minutes of the hammer test (#13). I'm already so close to stable that I only get errors in the memtest86 hammer test (#13), but not the others. I'm even able to pass older versions of memtest86 that don't have that specific test, so I'm thankful I was able to figure that out a while ago. I used to have tREFI at max (65,535) for over a year but now suddenly I can only pass a clean hammer test if I set to 15,000 or lower. That seems like a giant leap, no? I suddenly have to power refresh four times as often for the same level of stability as before? The one culprit I am currently thinking is that it could be the humidity in my room when I hang up clothes that didn't dry completely in the dryer. My dryer is really old and I'd rather not waste power re-running cycles for hours, so I have to hang some of the heavier pieces in my room. I've read that higher levels of ambient temperature may require lower tREFI for stability. I also consider the possibility that every time it's too hot or humid in my room I'm unknowingly running an unstable system but because it's a rare corruption, I don't blue screen but might have occasional file corruption or other bugs in Windows, like the one I just posted a thread about with Chrome causing what seemed to be a major CPU hang. Obviously I don't test memtes86 every week so I wouldn't know this is going on.

It was strange that it would cause the browser to hang because I can do things like gaming at high CPU usages and chrome still works fine. I didn't see any windows updates ran. But yeah I've known Windows to be really bad with CPU usage for certain tasks that shouldn't warrant it. I'm actually afraid to run a full system Security scan because it's one of the rare things, among P95 and other stress tests, that will lock or BSOD this otherwise stable overclock. Not sure if the security scan CPU usage thing is a bug on my system or intended but it's really scary. I'm also thinking chrome bugged the system and the system was trying to handle it and the hang led to high CPU usage. I'll run memtest86 to make sure.

Can PDFs infect your system? I've been browsing laptop screen models and checked some part sheets. Otherwise my browsing is always quite kosher. I also had a good amount of tabs open but I do that all the time and this system handles everything like a champ. I'm sure I could run 100 tabs and as long as there isn't a memory leak or bug/hang it will feel as fast as it does with nothing open. Extensions have been the same for a while but I do run an adblocker. That 50%+ CPU usage on my i7-5775c (@4.2GHz) was happening for like 2-3 minutes and during the time tab switching was taking seconds and as I was editing one of my posts I was getting hard lag on character typing. Like I mentioned earlier, text editor lag is something I've seen unfortunately too often online, but it's still relatively rare. In Windows task manager I'd see brief moments of "System" running at high CPU usage but for most of the time it was happening I couldn't see the source of the usage, like the process was hidden but was still adding to the total. Chrome usage was higher than it should have been but it wasn't adding up. I mean, usage up to 50-60% on CPUs like this is not normal for non gaming/pro applications. Chrome didn't show a particular tab eating up resources but chromes task manager isn't reliable for troubleshooting tabs in my experience. ATM I think it was just a rare browser hang considering that it stopped. Unless..LTT does mining in chunks and then stops so users don't expect anything.

It's like when someone says "dude you're so hyped right now how many energy drinks did you have?" That question doesn't mean they believe the only reason their buddy is hyped is from energy drinks, it's just to spark the convo. It could have nothing to do with energy drinks and it's still ok to ask the question. I'm leaning more towards some sort of anomaly that won't repeat. I never see that kind of activity and I don't visit this forum often. I've used other forums where the text editor can cause hangs but not sure exactly what happened here.

"a slow website does not instantly mean it's bitcoin mining your system"" Yeah that's why i asked the question to see if anyone else ever had similar experiences. Doesn't mean I was dead set on any conclusion, it's just what I made the topic title. I could've made it anything. And i asked why is it so slow for the sake of the conversation to get answers not because I was defending it necessarily being mining. You're extremely annoying.

Then why is it so slow? The letters are lagging as I type them in. My browser hangs with it open.

I never EVER have CPU usage issues with websites. Even really bad ones. But using this forum, I'm getting up to 50% usage on a high end i7, and a loud fan! I never hear my fan just browsing the web.

This is an interesting situation for which I haven't understood completely yet. A while ago I was doing some troubleshooting on my USB 3.0 bay module and this required me to restart the computer and power off the PSU multiple times. I'm not sure if it was the 3rd front panel device or the port itself but I eventually gave up and completely disconnected the cable. After I failed with that (I hate USB 3.0 20-pin design) and got back to using my computer, I noticed I was getting BSODs too often. I didn't change any settings in Windows or BIOS that would have caused this. I used the Windows memory diagnostic and was getting a few errors, which was scary because I've passed that test before with the same BIOS settings. I had an older version of memtest86 at the time which wasn't giving me errors but I've now upgraded to the newest version with Hammer test that is very good at detecting issues. So I went into the BIOS and tried some things including changing RAM voltage, timings and speed, but eventually I realized I could no longer even POST with the settings I'd been using for nearly a year on this PC. I'm still trying to figure out if this is a connected USB device issue or something else but it doesn't make a lot of sense to me. So at this point, I can no longer use CAS 1 anymore or else I can't POST. I went through a lot of trial and error and eventually I came back to my original RAM timings but with CAS 2 instead of CAS 1. It was very strange because for a while these settings were were giving me errors in memtest86 Hammer test, but all of a sudden after a process of elimination coming to no verdict, those same settings are no longer giving me errors in both memtest86 and Windows memory diagnostic. I thought that maybe when I was doing the USB 3.0 front bay thing, my BIOS was trying different training timings thinking bad settings were the reason it was restarting and fucked my setup, and may still be fucked seeing that I can't even POST at CAS 1, but it must have semi-unfucked itself to allow me to pass error-free with most of my original settings. It all just seems wild and I don't know what really happened. I really don't think it's voltage related as I've tried voltages and it isn't helping and if anything going up or down just makes it worse. The kit is G.Skill TridentX 2x8 GB DDR3 2400 running at 2133, CAS 2, 9-11-11-31-220, 1.52v. It used to be able to run the same but at CAS 1. Edit: For anyone wondering I've been stable since I made this post.

Edit 4: The upgrade to the NV156FHM-N4B worked in my HP 15-bs234wm with stock eDP cable! Important info on compatibility issue with this display and laptop model: http://forum.notebookreview.com/threads/my-interesting-path-in-panel-upgrading-finding-the-the-boe-nv156fhm-n4b.827021/page-5#post-10988642 And it looks great, can't even tell the difference in response time (8ms vs 16ms). Contrast and colors are amazing. I just can't go too high of a brightness or I would get occasional black screen, probably because it pulls more wattage than the stock screen but it could be something like a voltage or timing issue. I expected this to be an issue though so I'm not disappointed. It will also occasionally give a black screen if too much of the screen has a saturated color as I described in my posts on notebookreview.com. You can fix the black screen issues by going to color management, and calibrating display and lower each color slider by about 25 notches, and use the ICC profile. It prevents the black screen issue when the screen is too populated by certain types of shades of color. It may be possible to fix the color bug black screen by using a different eDP cable or by modifying the stock cable so each power pin (26-29) gets its own individual wire I'm still not sure the root cause. After a couple weeks using the new display I'm fine with the occasional black screen bug. It only happens with the rare website that has a lot of solid red/blue/ etc or an occasional YouTube video with some frames with a high amount of saturated colors. I can go hours without it happening once so it's a pretty rare bug, but when it does happen be prepared to alt-tab to another window to see what you're doing. My adblocker allows me to block parts of websites permantently even after I reloaded them, so I can block the solid color banners on the problem websites. I would say about 1% of websites will have trouble so again it's extremely rare and can be fixed with the ICC profile if desired despite the luminance range being decreased. ------------------------------------------------------ Edit 3: I've examined the wiring in the stock cable thoroughly and can confirm it is wired for 2-lanes and should support a good amount of 1080p screens. The backlit keyboard and 8GB RAM upgrades worked. The NV156FHM-N4B display is coming soon and I'll update later. It's possible HP swaps the cable for assembly when upgrading. When I looked at models with that cable, they were all 1366x768. I looked at like 20 HP models. If I get a screen I will want to buy a cable with it that also has the antenna. Also I can't find a way to upgrade that model to a 1080p screen on HPs website. How do you know it uses that cable and how do you know it has been used with a 1080p screen? Edit: I'm in the process of buying parts for a full upgrade to this laptop. The attempted upgrades will be one stick of 8GB RAM, a backlit keyboard from ebay, and a 1080p 120Hz panel from AUO. I additionally needed to order a proper 2-lane EDP cable that was 30-pin to 30-pin, so before I get the screen in the mail I will test the new cable (6017B0975601) with my current screen. I expect the RAM upgrade to go smoothly. The keyboard upgrade should also work, but the replacement is difficult because it requires the breaking of about 20 plastic rivets that hold the keyboard shield in place. There's also a chance I'm firmware locked out of using the backlight functionality even though the motherboard does have the 4-pin port for the backlight cable. The screen has the most chance of going wrong: either the exact pinout HP used for signal output is unique and may not translate correctly to some screens, or I'm firmware locked out of either using a different screen or using a higher resolution screen. UHD Graphics 605 supports up to 4K 60Hz so it's up to HP to block compatibility. The screen will be the AUO B156HAN04.5, quite a good 120Hz 1080p panel that can be found for $70-$100 ignoring the fake "compatible" listings that go cheaper. Edit2: Image below of the stock cable, DC02002WZ00 rev 3.0. These are the pins that appear be connected to the terminal connector that goes into the motherboard eDP slot. Pinout for normal eDP connector is on page 9 of this document. Pins 3, 4, 6 and 7 are usually used for the data lanes in a 2-lane configuration for 1080p. The thing is that while the numbering 1-30 should be correct, I don't know if some of those wires are just there but not actually soldered to the connector, mainly because It's hard for me to believe it will be as easy as just using the stock cable XD! I guess this could happen if HP wanted to order the same cable but only solder some of the wires to prevent upgrades, doesn't seem very practical though. What could also be happening is maybe if HP did a custom pinout they are using those second lane data pins (pin 3 and 4) for the webcam (which needs the 6-pin cable) and not for the 2-pin pair for the second data lane to a monitor. I don't really know exactly which pins on the cable are allowed to be used as data to the webcam, but I assume an HP engineer would decide to use other pins for the webcam and not the ones usually used for the second monitor data lane. I'm not sure though, I really just have to try the cable and find out. But to be clear, if the pinout on the motherboard is "standard," and if those wires are indeed properly connected as expected, then it should mean this cable is 1080p capable as pins 3, 4, 6 and 7 are all connected. Any pin not connected with a black line is unused.

I can't find a single 1080p laptop using that cable.

Uhh...that's the most god level reply I've ever seen. I'm still confused with my luck in seeing this reply so quickly.

I almost went through with it with my previous cheap laptop but realized it wouldn't be worth it on an 11.6 inch screen. But now I have another cheap laptop with a 15.6 inch screen, 1366x768 resolution with what appears to be no better than 60% sRGB gamut. I will probably need to buy a 2-lane eDP cable as I'm guessing HP's stock cable is only 1-lane, but the display output (Pentium N5000 with UHD 605) uses at least DP 1.2 which allows for the screen types I want to look into, possibly even 1080p 144hz. The laptop model is an HP 15-bs234wm. I got it quite cheap used in great condition, did optimization in stripping down Windows to a minimum and put in my SSD from a long dead gaming laptop and now the thing zips as much as I need for web browsing. The screen is honestly pretty bad. I'd also like to light keyboard somehow. Do glow stickers make practical sense? I'm looking for tips from anyone who's done this before.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/4v52sm/rx_470_amd_benchmarks_from_endnotes/d5wiz32

Wat? AMD already showed benchmark FPS numbers. It easily beats the 380X in all games tested.

No no no no no no, the 470 is a bit short of midway between a 380X and a 390. It will absolutely destroy any 960.

Remember that the 380X overclocks relatively badly (100MHz OC according to anandtech). The 470 will likely be able to push at least 1400 (300+ MHz OC) assuming it isn't artificially power limited, putting it at least up to 480 perf. It has more wattage headroom than the 480 (110W vs 150W under the 150W max allowed with PCI-E+6-pin), meaning it could OC higher than a reference 480 too. In sum, the 470 is going to be a much better card than the 380X once you get to OC. If rumors hold it should be THE top perf/price card on the market. I so hope it releases sooner than later. EDIT: Just want to point out this graph from PCGamer's review: That's an RX 480 at 1340MHz. I and most gamers play at 1080p so looking at the 1080p figures, you see an average 5FPS, sometimes over 10 FPS increase, just with the 80MHz overclock. Just hammering down the 470 OC hype: from 1206MHz stock to 1400MHz+, we may see upwards of 10-20 FPS gains when max OC'ing the 470. Please AMD do not power limit the 470!