beanhubbleday

Thanks for the guidance, I'll take your suggestions into account when I revise the build list. As I say, been out of the gaming hardware market for a while so genuinely not sure what is/isn't good anymore

Thanks for the help, I'll take a look. We basically just need one really good PC to run the flight simulator software on so we can progress their training.

Networks VID10 - Production - 10.10.100.254/24 - DHCP VID20 - Homelab - 10.10.20.254/24 - DHCP - Not currently in use, yet... VID30 - Private WiFi - 10.10.30.254/24 - DHCP VID50 - [NEIGHBOURS NETWORK] - 10.10.50.254/24 - DHCP VID40 - IoT - 10.10.40.254/24 - DHCP VID70 - Public WiFi - 10.10.70.254/24 - DHCP Switches Netgear JGS516PE Gateways/Firewalls WatchGuard T35 DHCP Runs off of the WatchGuard DNS Runs on 3TKDC01 Access points 2 * UniFi UAP-AC Lite's Servers: 1 Physical Dell PowerEdge T610, running Windows Svr 22 with Hyper-V role for following VM's: 3TKUNIFI01 - Ubuntu, UniFi software controller for my AP's at home, one at my workshop and one in my neighbours house. 3TKFS02 - Windows Svr 22, Basic file server, 01 no longer exists as Windows died and it wasn't worth my time/effort to repair so I just rebuilt it. 3TK3CX01 - Ubuntu, hosts 3CX for use within the family. 3TKMEDIA01 - Windows Svr 22, Hosts Emby, Radarr, Sonarr and "some other stuff" 3TKDC01 - Windows Svr 22, Domain Controller, DNS, AD, GPO, etc 3TKGAME01 - Windows Svr 22, Hosts some minecraft servers For any wondering, my neighbour is my best mate and instead of having two internet connections in two houses, we have 1 good one in mine and a Cat6 run between the houses which serves his side, all VLAN'ed off as above. Any questions, shoot.

Budget (including currency): £1000 (GBP) Country: United Kingdom Games, programs or workloads that it will be used for: Microsoft Flight Simulator 2020 Other details (existing parts lists, whether any peripherals are needed, what you're upgrading from, when you're going to buy, what resolution and refresh rate you want to play at, etc): OS, peripherals, etc not needed Background: I've been in IT for years and have only ever designed my own system from scratch once and that was in 2016, since then I've added bits and pieces and upgraded but I'm kinda out of touch with the "gaming" scene now and what's "good" and what is not. This machine is for a charity here in the UK where I volunteer my time. Do you reckon the below parts list should suffice with a bit of future proofing?

So if you configure a LAG on both sides with your two 10GB ports you’re good to go

My bad, I hit reply in the wrong post.

So, what’s the issue/question/problem you have?

Can confirm, mine works the same. Somewhat annoyingly as I can’t charge my phone without it booting me off the network

Realistically, it’ll be fine as above bottleneck is your gateway to the web. Chuck a small switch on it and plumb it in from there, should be fine!

What are you trying to achieve here?

Before rolling back/reinstalling try a network stack reset https://www.intel.co.uk/content/www/uk/en/support/articles/000058982/wireless/intel-killer-wi-fi-products.html

If it makes you feel any better, the Omada hardware controllers are a pain in the rear end to get working too…. They “dynamically” assign themselves an IP on the 192.168.1.X range…. I’ve not got any experience with the software controller but assuming there’s no VLAN’s in place which it looks like there isn’t as you can PING the individual AP’s, I’d reset the AP’s and see if when they come online you can then see and adopt them

Easiest way to achieve this is to set internal and external ports to the ones you need, set the host to your machines IP address (ensure you’ve set a static one/reserved it) & then test. the only time you’d need differing internal and external ports is when your trying to mask ports but in this case it’s almost certainly not going to be the case.

AFAIK, Wired is the priority, there will be some form of registry change you can make to stop it doing so.

As above, assuming your cameras won’t go over the power draw, connecting the switch straight into the router will work for what you’re trying to do. I’ve previously configured this exact setup (CNC Mill, FTP Server) in corporate land so if you’ve got any questions feel free to pm me. good luck.

Setup a link agg (LAG) on both sides’ 10GB ports. If you don’t have 10GB ports on the switch I think you’ll be out of luck.

I’d say drivers… give them an update

rip

The router will do all the hard work, the modem just connects your router to the internet.

Does your ISP not provide one? If so, use that.

Sounds like a bit of a tricky/messy setup including double NAT and a whole host of other confusion. Can you not connect your PC direct to router? then forward ports X Y Z to PC's IP address on router.

Depending on the router, yes. DrayTek routers can do it, I have it enabled for a port that goes to my Neighbour's house and my house, we half the bill so we half the bandwidth, I know WatchGuard's can do it too - not so sure about "home" grade routers, ISP provided ones, but I would assume so.

What you are trying to do will work and is used in home and business setups. Use your one drop into a 1G switch and feed your PC and AP from there

Open cmd and run ipconfig /release and then run ipconfig /renew - If it gives you an IPv4 address you should be good to go, check it is giving you DNS entries by doing ipconfig /all if it is not giving you an IPv4 address or DNS entries, there is your issue.

Configure a VPN and RDP into said server