Jump to content

Lord Nicoll

Member
  • Posts

    4,396
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Lord Nicoll

  1. What you're likely feeling is 1/2 mains voltage through from the class X (and possibly class Y, those go between live and earth) capacitor that ties the 0v DC ground to live mains to reduce back EMF and EMI and other issues. That suggests the earth on your PC chassis is not sufficient to bleed the roughly 60-120v AC ripple to ground. I'd suggest you double check the earthing/grounding of the case, and if needed run a dedicated wire to a earthing rod in the ground if it's that much of a concern.
  2. I've had graphics card make those noises before, usually only under extreme loads, consider trying to take a video or recording the sound so you could show us, it might be normal but I wouldn't think so.
  3. You can get aftermarket GPU heatsink arrays yes, something like this https://www.raijintek.com/en/products_detail.php?ProductID=46 would dramatically slash GPU core temps but installing it is a pain, and you'd need to check compatibility first, might even need a case upgrade to fit if there is room issues. An AIO is also an option with the right mounting bracket and AIO.
  4. Slightly positive pressure is my perfered config so it shouldn't be too bad, just be sure to use fan filters on the bottom though, it can suck up dust, specially if it's on a carpet or an area that's easy for dust to build up, like a corner
  5. Did you try the voice tab in the xbox game bar, I had a similar issue and it was because the app had automatically selected the wrong input device
  6. oops sorry for not replying sooner. That's a somewhat older CPU and board, but I haven't heard of sandybridge just dying like that so it'd be odd, but possibly, however I'd be more thinking RAM, can you get a new DIMM cheaply? Probably be the better option, cheapest DIMM you can find to see if those two DIMMs but it is a little odd for two DIMMs to die together without something else killing them, which is why I thought maybe it was the CPU. I would suggest also looking for the lowest end LGA 1155 CPU you can find, a celeron or something like that, to test if it's the CPU. If new memory and a new CPU still don't post then it's probably the board. I would also suggest seeing if your board has BIOS flashback, it'll let you update/rewrite the BIOS of the board without the computer needing to be on or posting.
  7. That shouldn't stop the board from posting, but if neither RAM stick worked, you'll need to try them in another PC. What are the other specs of the PC, CPU, RAM and motherboard. It's possible but unlikely the CPU died, but, it's not a stretch.
  8. As unlikely as it sounds, might be a DRAM failure during use, odd it happened out of nowhere. Did you try clearing the CMOS too? Might be worth pulling the memory modules out and testing them one at a time assuming you have more than one.
  9. It's very dependant on the sticks, what topograpgy the motherboard is, if you're manually overclocking, how many ranks are being interleaved, and the timings and speeds. If everything is the same, same timings, ranks, channels, speeds, you will only see differences in the margin of error. It's when you start to get into different memory configs that this question becomes harder to answer, so I'll use one example in the real world I had a couple months ago. My friend upgraded his 4x8GB 2400MHz JEDEC DDR4 with 2x16GB 3200MHz not great XMP kit, and in doing so we went from 4 dual ranked DIMMs to 2 single ranked DIMMs, and despite the increase from 2400MHz to 3200MHz, the bandwidth was basically the same. He saw no performance increase and he was on a 3900X. Higher levels of ranks perform better for the same speed, but usually can't go as fast. If you're manually overclocking 2 DIMMs with single rank would overclock further. However you'd need to push them pretty far, probably more than a normal person overclocks. The sad part is, it's not as easy to see from the DIMM itself what config the kit is without all the codes and model numbers so before you upgrade, take some benchmarks of the performance, upgrade and see if it got any faster. Alternatively you could look for a kit that maintains the same amount of ranks and in theory should therefore be the same, while outperforming due to speed. I'm a fairly good overclocker and can manually tune memory timings and speeds so I usually go for 2 single rank DIMMs, but a normal person not wanting to spend loads on a super high end kit of XMP memory might get better value out of 4 dual ranked DIMMs with normal speeds and timings vs 2 single ranked DIMMs. Thats 8 ranks vs 2, not hard to see how it outperforms it. As for motherboard, if it's a T-Top board, not too common now adays, 4 DIMMs overclocks better, if it's a daisy chain board, which most are now adays, 2 DIMMs in the outer slots of both channels will overclock better.
  10. Seems purely cosmetic, probably not worth the hassle, won't it be covered up by the fan anyways, there is almost always a fan in the middle of dual tower coolers. Did you see if it wipes off or not? You could try the store you bought it from but it doesn't seem the functionality of the item is effected but maybe they'll give you a new one if you still have the packaging, when returning items the store has to send everything back to get a refund.
  11. Hello everyone! Thought I'd share a little project I've been working on. As we all know phase change units can be expensive so it's usually cheaper to make your own, but obviously that requires a lot of expertise, however I turned on my extra thrifty mode and tried pretty hard to build a little unit for RAM and NB's, things like FX890 and X48. This whole unit was less than €150 and was aiming for around 100 watts at -40°C. When charging you can see the evap temp hit -55 at like 4000 mbarA, however it'd not hold any load and would probably damage the compressor over time, not much use really. The compressor was pulled from a fridge for free, I was actually surprised it could run R1270, propene, as it was meant for R600a, iso-butane. I'm excited to see how long it lasts with the much higher pressure R1270 charged, the pressures are a good bit higher. The unit is tuned to a superheat of about 8K and an evap pressure of 1100 mbarA - 900mbarA at idle, I'm expecting load pressures to be a bit higher but with such a small compressor it won't handle all that much load. I didn't really wanna make it look pretty as this build was a disaster, a lot of stuff went wrong and I had to redo some of it, and change the design half way through and it shows in the slightly unoptimised layout.
  12. Looks pretty close, maybe if you had a right angle extender it might fit but as it stands now I'd say it'd probably foul on the cable, could you afford a full ATX motherboard instead of the m-ATX one? Those have more PCIe slots.
  13. Unfortunatly there isn't too much more you could get out of a GPU like this, not on ambient at least, as overvolting is only something you do now with such small lithographies on more extreme levels of cooling, from chilled liquid to liquid nitrogen, but if you'd like I can walk you though the process for volt modding the card, first though I'd want to know your level of soldering capability and what equipment you have, and that you understand you could completely fry not only the card but also the the CPU, possible the RAM and motherboard too if something truely catastrophic happens (like shorting 12v to the PCIe bus, to the CPU, which would fry the SOC on the CPU and probably send 12v to the RAM and chipset)
  14. GTX 1050's aren't overly powerful cards, specially not at 75 watts from a slot, but that cooler is pretty small so I wouldn't be surprused with 60's to 70's, maybe try a custom fan profile or undervolt as someone suggested, or repaste it, it's not that hard, but the cooler isn't amazing so your results may vary.
  15. Sounds normal, 11th gen ran a fair bit warmer than 10th gen really under idle even, it was a 10nm process produced on 14nm. It sounds normal to me.
  16. If it's the wireless controller no, the cable only provides power for it, I know that sounds dumb as the xbox one controller allows control over USB but not the 360 one.
  17. You're not gonna get 4.8GHz all core without a binned chip in the sub 1.25v range with reasonable temps man, and you have a single slim rad, that's no where near enough. I have an XE 360 and CE 360 cooling just a 7700K and 980 Ti, when overclocked even that gets the loop warm, a 3090 and heavily OC'd 10980XE are gonna need probably separate loops with D5's and 2 rads each if you want decent temps, or one very large loop with 3 rads. That or extreme cooling, chillers, SS units. As someone who makes chillers and SS units I wouldn't recommend them for daily. You're options are lower the voltage and clock speed get more radiators and see if it's coolable then delid the chip (not recommended) use vapour phase change (not recommended but an aquarium pump that won't go under the dew point might work)
  18. Lord Nicoll

    Does anyone have experience with Sun X3-2 Oracl…

    fun to play with but performance is meh if the application isn't suited to the arch
  19. Fancy meeting you here, pretty sure that's a reference GTX 580
  20. Does it come up with a BIOS splash screen? If there is no drives the PC should boot into the UEFI options menu.
  21. That would be shorted yes on the mains input alright. Is it the breaker thats tripping (over current) or a GFCI/RCD tripping (short to earth), either case would imply it's dead, but the former could also imply it went nuclear and took the board and possibly everything with it. CPU might be gone, GPU probably too, depends what voltages got zapped is mains came through. SSD's might be gone too. If I had to list the parts most likely dead it would be as follows. I wouldn't be surprised if 2-5 weere dead but the VRM shouldn't have let 12v though but might have let mains through as it'd break down all the internal resisances inside the MOSFETs and things. Motherboard GPU CPU SSD RAM
  22. Er, don't think shorted is the right word there, what part shorted, inside the PSU or on the motherboard? If the PSU is outputting the required voltages and the board is not turning on probably means something killed it, sorry.
  23. Yes a high quality paste should do enough to reduce the temps, along with a lotta rad space. 2100MHz is a tall ask for any RTX 3090 unless it can already do good clocks, you might need to bin cards to get one that can do 2100MHz on even water if it does 1800-1900 currently. Whats the max stable clock you get right now at what temperature.
  24. If LM spills out from the thermal interface it will in most liklihood kill it so I wouldn't write that risk off entirely. Actual temp improvments were not spectacular, it was somewhere in the region of 5°C but the reason I did it was because this kinda crappy Bykski block has a die contact area smaller than the die itself, I think they took the regular 980 matrix card and used that as the basis but forgot the GM102 die is bigger than GM104. Now this being a matrix it has full voltage control, it runs in the low to mid 40's at 320-350 watts total board board with 1.25-1.28v on the core, 1520-1530MHz range, 1.7v on the memory around 2097MHz. The loop has two 360mm radiators, D5 pump, the rads are a CE and XE from EK, so a medium and thick rad. The GPU is the last thing in the loop before the rads so it'll be the hottest. Given it's last and still never hits 50°C even overvolted and overclock, yes it works, but again idk if it'll have the same gains on your case. As for applying it, yes cover any exposed solder joins around the die, seal under the die package so blobs of LM can't get to the BGA array (if there is no underfill) and apply it to both sides to be mated, not a lot is needed, you need need the surfaces covered with a couple of blobs, it doesn't take much. Capillary action will cause the two sides to join together.
  25. I can speak directly from experience in using LM on my watercooled Matrix Platinum GTX 980 ti (note an older card but still a hard to find card, I look forward to putting in on LN2 one day) and also using graphite pads on the memory. Yes the temps are pretty great, but quite frankly, don't, it's easy to mess up, note all the shiny areas around the package on the PCB, thats clear coat to stop shorts, and the pink nail polish on the passives around the die, it's a lotta risk for a slightly largish gain but it's not earth shattering. Look on those temps and decide for yourself. (that's idle in case it wasn't obvious, load temps are low 40's)
×