DXTN

Ooh, well there's no non-destructive way to get to those, as they're sandwiched between the chassis and the keyboard armature, and both things are riveted together, as explained in the op water has gotten it's way in between the circuit layers of the keyboard. I'm doing the alcohol thing today and will update the situation

Thanks for the suggestion. Won't the alcohol degrade the plastics? And for how long should I bathe it? Should I use other alcohol than isopropyl? The contacts on the ribbon cable are ok tho, and I traced the culprit of the power button misbehavior to the three keys at the right to the space bar.

So, about a week ago I accidentally spilled about a glass of water on to my account aspire 5 laptop keyboard, being the tech savvy guy I immediately turned off the laptop turned it around, disassembled it right away to disconnect the battery and dry everything up, that actually saved the display as the internal connector was already corroding. Now, I actually saved the machine, but it seems like some water sipped in between the membranes of the keyboard, rendering it completely useless (but not burnt or utterly damaged). I can confirm the laptop works as it turns on when I'm lucky enough that the power button decides to work properly (as the damn button is embedded in the keyboard) but holding the laptop at the wrong angle causes the button to be read as been pushed. Now I've tried to locate a diagram for the board so I can temporarily put an independent power button with no luck (it's a Wartortle_BS if someone has more luck than me). So, oh wise ltt forum, what can I do? I've tried resting only the keyboard in rice and sealing it with a bunch of silica gel in a bag for 2 days. Now I'm thinking on baking it at 100°C but I'm afraid it would ruin it for good in the process, or giving it a bath in 99% isopropyl alcohol. I'm also searching for replacements in the meantime but I didn't find the right language and the ones I found come separate from the chassis, and I'm not in the mood of removing the damn rivets and gluing the new keyboard. I'm attaching the picture of my keyboard's label if someone's interested. Sorry for the long post and thank you for your replies. UPDATE: So, after numerous tries with the alcohol and the hairdrier I just had to give up. For the record, If your power button is part of the keyboard, buy the cheapo silicon cover for the keyboard, the damn part is essential for the normal functioning of the laptop. if you spill anything on that you're SOL. Now, I had to commision a friend of mine to buy a replacement keyboard in the capital, since I wasn't able to get the part in the town I live... friggin embedded power buttons... UPDATE: So yeah, I found the replacement and got to the job of replacing the keyboard, that meant melting about 70 plastic rivets to remove it, carefully reshaping them to place the new keyboard and melting them back to hold the new part, the whole endeavour took me about 4 hours, including laptop dissassembly and reassembly. if someone reads this, please get those cheap silicon keyboard covers if you plan to have liquids anywhere near the laptop, cuz having to do this is a REAL pain in the butt

As stated, with the limited budget of 550$, that's the best value I could find in my area (Peru)

Light gaming (as i'm intenting to catch up with all the 2008's games I've been stocking on my steam library) and mostly CAD work. 2 weeks in with the machine it has been amazing for the games I've thrown at it (so far crysis 2 and cities Skylines, all at high) but it has been kind of sluggish for my Job with Civil3d, I'd say it has been about a 20% upgrade compared to my old I3-3110M. Now, I'm thinking of adding a 120 M.2 sata SSD to wrap up the thing, hopefully that improves my CAD situation

In my experience, Investing on a moderately fine I5 and relying on its IGPU for a while until he rises the money for a beast GPU would be the best option. Intel IGPUs are quite capable this times, I manage myself with an I3 7100 for fortnite at low settings, but it reaches 60 fps no sweat! but, as with the other responses, it depends, for CAD work is better to have beast IPCs so investing on a nicer CPU is better on that scenario.

So I managed to upgrade my 2013 Lenovo B590 to what I felt like a bargain Acer A515-41G-18GZ with an AMD A12-9720P + RX540 (2gbs GDDR5), 8 gbs of DDR4 and 2tbs of molasses slow (but adequate for my needs) Barracuda 5400rpm storage with 128 cache for the discount price of 530$. I wanna know your toughts on that oh wise LTT forum, is it adequate? or should I had spent my money on a better laptop?

The one I built for my best friend is the first one I picked the parts on my own, not the first I built tho, but the last one as well. I regret buying an APU for the promise of crossfireX or offloading some tasks to the IGPU, should've went for the FX part instead... but i think buying a worsktation class mobo paid itself for the sound and ports... but got stuck with 10 unused SATA ports LOL, it's fun to watch tho... Also the color scheme is nonexistant, the V8 cooler has red LEDs, the fans have blue ones and the damn mobo is golden, the case has arctic blue accents, it's the funkiest thing to watch. Here's the parts list: Asus A88x-pro MOBO AMD A10-7890k APU MSI Twinfrozr R9-270x GPU CoolerMaster V8 COOLER Various random RAM Modules, totaling 24 gbs

Right Now Im using an almost 17 YO compaq PS/2 kb that one of my pc repairers shove it to me... in a white pc... running w98 but I use my Laptop KB the most, and that one sucks, it rolls over with the trackpad buttons!, it's nearly impossible to play a game that requires a lot of keypresses simultaneously like a racing sim... goddamnit lenovo!