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Apologies for such a late response, been caught up with my last semester of college. Totally agree that an actual electric radiator fan from a car would be a bit much for something that sits in the room with you. As for passive cooling, it does pretty well for the most part, but I do notice temps creep up when gaming without the fan on. Saw it get up to around 60c awhile back playing Sniper Elite v3, which isn't bad by any means, but was a bit hot for keeping the overclock on the 1080ti stable. Pascal cards can get a little finnicky with temperatures when overclocking (I was running the card somewhere around 2112mhz for gaming, got it up to 2240mhz awhile back doing some GPUPi benching: https://hwbot.org/submission/5126530_tomoko_gpupi_v3.3___32b_geforce_gtx_1080_ti_8min_8sec_286ms). Totally fine on stock clocks, though. For piping, I have it set so the pump sends water into the top of the rad, then goes to the GPU from the bottom, and finally comes out of the GPU into the reservoir with the pump. Order isn't super important in PC loops, as Jayz2Cents showed awhile back, but with this setup, I have the coolest water getting sent directly to the GPU. The water in the reservoir hasn't gotten nearly hot enough to pose an issue to the pump, so I reckon this set up is pretty much ideal for what I'm working with. With all that being said though, I am happy to report that the setup is still running strong. Unfortunately, with winter gone, I'm not able to bank on low outside temps, but it is still performing well with the window closed. I'll likely have to find a new solution for everyday use after I move out of my dorm since my dad isn't too keen on me keeping a car radiator in my room, but I figure I'll be pulling it out into the garage when winter comes around to do some more high-clock benchmarking Even with winter being over, I have enjoyed having separate loops for the CPU and GPU, so I may end up building an enclosure for extra rads and an extra pump to sit under my tower, pretty much like the basement from a 900D or a CaseLabs SMA8. Overall though, I would call this little project successful, and its been a ton of fun, even with using it on "older" hardware. I believe that I still hold the record on HWBot for an ambient watercooled 1080ti in GPUPi v3.3 32B (link to the run is a few paragraphs up), scoring above some chilled setups, and getting pretty dang close to a card that was hooked up to a phase change system. Very reliant on weather, of course, but definitely shows that the radiator is doing its job!

Gone from the original owner, but I'd bet the motor is still out there somewhere. Hard to kill a SBC!

Unfortunately the guy I got it from didn't have the original fan or shroud, the rad had been sitting in his garage for about 25 years apparently, sold both of his Camaros awhile ago. Has a pretty sweet '67 GTO now though! As for times, I'd say it runs a modest mid 11 second 1/4 mile in the right weather

I know I'm definitely not the first person to run a setup like this, but I figured I'd share anyways, since most of the threads I found on this kinda thing from other forums were a little lacking in detail, and I had to go through a bit of trial and error with the adapters. Since I got into watercooling about 5 years ago, I'd always wanted to try hooking up a car rad to a loop, since working on cars is my biggest hobby apart from PC stuff. After watching the disaster that was LTT's car rad video a few times, I figured I'd finally give it a shot, since my parents aren't here in my dorm to stop me from bringing car parts inside Ended up with an original 1970 Camaro 3 core radiator, which uses a full copper core with brass end tanks; $50 from Facebook marketplace! Some new tubing, $20 worth of PVC schedule 40 adapters, a $25 Harbor Freight pond pump (264GPH, 5.5ft head pressure; submersible, comes with a 1/2in barb adapter for the outlet, and has a removable/ washable filter for the inlet), and a few gallons of distilled water/ Primochill's included additive later, here it is! Got it propped up next to my window with a box fan blowing cold air from outside through into the room. ADAPTERS For the adapters, on this specific rad, I ended up using a rubber 1-1/4in to 1-1/2in adapter on the inlet and outlet. The outlet measures 1-1/2in, but the adapters turned out to be a bit oversized, so had to try a few before I got ones that fit snugly. From there, used 1-1/2in Schedule 40 PVC to 1/2in NPT threaded adapters, then put 1/2in x 1/2in MNPT barbs into those using T Plus 2 PTFE pipe sealant on the threads. From my research, found that it's best practice to use a non-setting thread sealer for this kind of connection, as opposed to the usual PVC cement. The sealant is rated for potable water systems as well, so I felt alright about having it in the loop, and it doesn't appear to have mixed with the coolant anyways, so I'd say it's working properly. The first time I tried to get this loop done, I used brass barbs in the adapters, but as it turns out, brass won't seal properly in PVC threads, so keep that in mind if you try this. RADIATOR CAP Finally, I ended up getting one of the pressure release style radiator caps, which actually turned out to be a huge help. The spring in the cap seals the neck of the rad, but if you lift the lever, it'll bleed all the air out of the loop through the overflow tank stem; very handy feature, and the cap was only $8 on Amazon. Keeps the system sealed with the lever down as well, so I didn't have to plug the overflow tank stem like I thought I would. A regular style cap would be a PITA to bleed, since it won't open unless your coolant pressure gets above 15psi, which isn't going to happen in a PC loop, so I'd recommend getting this kind of cap if you wanna build one of these rigs. TUBING/ COOLANT I used 7/16in ID x 5/8in OD Primochill Advanced LRT tubing, which fits snugly over the 1/2in barbs (may have to stretch it and fiddle around to get em started though), and just used standard PC G 1/4 compression fittings for the PC side of the loop. The Primochill tubing also comes with an additive that makes a gallon of coolant with growth and corrosion inhibitors, which I've been running with no issues in my regular loop for 5 years now, so I trust that it'll keep the loop clean (enough). Took somewhere around 4 gallons to fill the loop, including the 2 gallon bucket the pump is sitting in; the other 3 gallons are just plain distilled water, but when I move out of my dorm, I'll probably spend the extra money for more of the Primochill additive just to be safe. It's about $13/ gallon, which is actually cheaper than antifreeze where I am! Speaking of, I do have antifreeze on hand for when the temps start tanking here in Virginia as we get closer to winter, so we'll see if that ends up being necessary. Could always just close the window, but I'm a sucker for low temps on my components, so I'll keep it open unless I start seeing condensation. Oh, and back on the topic of the Primochill tubing, I'd also like to note that they say the tubing IS compatible with antifreeze, so that I shouldn't have to worry about adding it if/ when the time comes. JayzTwoCents did a couple videos a few years back with antifreeze in a loop, and it worked perfectly fine for a few months; only replaced it in his follow up vid because his DDC pump got shorted on the heatsink and he had to drain the loop. Antifreeze (at least the regular green kind, do some research on the different kinds to know the difference; If I recall correctly, the red Toyota coolant is only used in full aluminum systems, and I haven't looked into the orange or yellow types, but they all have different additives for the systems they were designed for; green was made for older cars with iron block engines, copper or rads, aluminum heads, copper heater cores, etc. Lots of different metals, so do your due diligence if you wanna try this to make sure you use a coolant that'll be compatible with your specific rad/ blocks)... er, got a bit rambly there, so I'll digress Anyways, antifreeze is designed to be in systems which use rubber, so you shouldn't have to worry about the seals in your loop degrading. ANYWAYS, that was all a lengthy roundabout way of saying that the Primochill tubing will work with antifreeze, and I'd imagine other soft tubings for PC cooling will as well, but just make sure that your tubing of choice is compatible if you want antifreeze. I believe most hardline tubing won't work, specifically PETG. I also wouldn't recommend doing hardline for this kind of thing unless you're quite certain that you're gonna keep the radiator and PC exactly where they are. Always preferred soft tubing for ease of maintenance personally, since I'm more concerned with performance than looks. Bet you could make a setup like this look pretty slick with copper tubing though; industrial chic! TL;DR: Make sure you do your research on coolant compatibility!! And don't do what Linus did in whole room watercooling, since antifreeze doesn't contain growth inhibitors! (car cooling systems don't need growth inhibitors since the heat from the engine will kill anything in the loop. Your PC will NOT get the coolant into the 220f+ range like an engine will) PERFORMANCE/ RESULTS Only have it hooked up to the GPU block for now, but it's been working for a bit over a week now with no issues. Really wish they'd properly hooked up the rad in the video, because it really does work quite well, and the adapters were only about $20 total. Even better though, if you poke around on secondhand marketplaces, you can find a good amount of full copper rads from older cars for quite cheap, since a lot of people with those cars like to move up to new 4 core aluminum rads and the like. All in, I paid about $135 for the full setup, not counting the GPU block. Hope they revisit this concept on LTT and actually do it right. As for performance, obviously it's quite good. Pump actually has pretty good flow through the whole loop, and the GPU idles at about the temps of the weather, maybe 1c higher. Got down to 12c at idle the other night when it was in the low 50f range, and running Cyberpunk with the 1080ti overclocked to 2075mhz/ 6107mhz mem, it peaked at 23c, and managed to stay at 2075mhz the entire time! When it was hooked into the CPU loop (780mm total rad area, sharing the loop with an i7 6950x @ 4.2GHz/ 1.24v), it would sit closer to 34c in the same conditions with the windows opened, and clocked down closer to 2012mhz. Really no actual impact on performance, but hey, its nice to see the clocks staying up. Got it to keep a stable 2113mhz in Time Spy as well, hoping to see it go higher once winter kicks in. CHANGES I'D LIKE TO MAKE Eventually, I do want to move to a traditional style D5 pump with a reservoir, but I went with the bucket/ Harbor Freight pump for now because budget. At the very least, I'd like to drill some holes in the lid of the bucket so the tubing can pass through and I can keep the bucket sealed. Would also like an actual way to mount the rad in one place as well, since it's just leaning against the window frame, but its been stable on the shelf, so it'll do. One last thing I considered trying, and may end up doing eventually, is to get some brass caps in the size of the inlet/ outlet for the rad, then drill/ tap them for G 1/4 thread, and braze them to the radiator. If that's done properly, it should theoretically hook up to a PC the same as any standard PC radiator, but I'm using the adapters for now since I don't have access to any of the tools for that here in my dorm room. Plus, that adds a bit of cost, and it means you'd be permanently modifying the radiator, so it'd never really work in a car again. Probably not a concern for most people, but I would like to own a 2nd gen f-body one day, so I may end up putting the rad back into the car it was designed for. Probably not, but you never know! Would definitely make the setup a bit more "proper" though, assuming it was done right. I'm also not sure if I'm going to make use of the transmission cooler lines. The lines lead into a cylindrical reservoir inside of the passenger side end tank, and it's designed to actually heat the trans fluid and keep it at operating temp. I'm sure if you wanted to get wacky and wild, you could do some kinda system with a condenser or a chiller through the trans loop, but it'd be pointless to add it into the loop with the main rad, since the coolant would be at the same temps. I'M FINALLY (almost) DONE TALKING! Apologies for the long post, but hopefully I remembered to put in all the little details for how to actually set the loop up, in case anyone was looking into doing something similar. If anyone has any questions or wants some clarification on anything I may have accidentally left out, let me know! Would love to hear back on any advice some of y'all may have on this kinda setup as well, since I'm new to the whole janky watercooling world; this whole project is just me experimenting, and I'm definitely no expert.

Right on, thank you so much!! I had to map the network drive/ sign in using the credentials of my Ubuntu machine, and now we're in! Appreciate your patience, stoked that its up and running! Can now successfully transfer files between each PC. Thanks a ton!

Gotcha. Here's the ipv4 settings I have now, as well as the sambashare folder I made. It isn't allowing me access to the folder, even though I'm the sole user/ admin on the Ubuntu machine. Also, I'm guessing these IP settings are wrong, as it still isn't showing that either PC is connected, though the Ubuntu settings says that I'm connected to a wired network.

At the moment, both are set to Auto DHCP. I'll try that IP manually and see what happens. Not 100% sure how to find my Samba config (first time using Linux), but I'll go look that up real quick. I installed it via Terminal though, and don't recall changing any options. Did set a folder to shared after installing to test though, and was able to transfer files from Linux to Windows, but not from Windows to Linux

I've tried setting the ipv4 settings on both ends, and reset the network on each machine a few times. I'm very new to networking, not sure what settings to go with; found a lot of different sources all saying different things. I've tried all the different settings on the Ubuntu side, and I have filesharing and all enabled on the windows side. I do believe I've at least installed Samba on the Ubuntu machine, had to use the wifi card out of my main rig for that though Here's how it's showing up on the windows side at the moment; I'm currently unable to access the files of the Ubuntu computer through the windows machine as well. The ethernet port on the far left is the actual physical connection

TL;DR: Unable to get direct attached file transfer working between two PCs via the built in gigabit ports on each machine. Any suggestions on OS for file transferring to and from a Windows 10 main PC in that config? I've also attached a picture of my jank Z420 "bench" to give some idea of the kind of setup I'm working with (I won't have a case until I'm home over the next break) Hey guys, sorry if I'm about to ask some questions that have come up in previous threads, but I was unable to find answers across multiple forums which I searched. Anyways, what I'm attempting to do right now is turn an old workstation into a direct attached storage device; pretty much a big external hard drive type deal, via RJ45 cable between the built in gigabit ports on each PC. Going this route because I had some spare hardware and decided to get a board that would hopefully allow me to make a useful second PC. I would go NAS, but I'm living in a college dorm for right now, and proper network attached storage isn't really possible through the school network. The setup I have going right now on the proposed server setup is an HP Z420 motherboard, a Xeon E5-1620v2, 64gb registered ECC DDR3, either a Radeon HD5870 or a GTX 645 (will get more into that later), and a solid 750W Corsair PSU. The issues I'm having are that I've been unable to connect it to my main PC successfully in the way I want. I've tried multiple OSs on the Z420 PC, including Windows 10 (unregistered), Ubuntu Server, TrueNAS, Ubuntu Desktop, and CentOS (which I couldn't actually install since I had no network access). Booting Windows 10 allowed me to connect the two PCs and even allowed me internet access from the Z420 for awhile, and allowed me to see both filesystems on the network, I was unable to actually access any of the files between PCs (wouldn't allow me access, and I couldn't find a solution to it online). That being said, after a reboot of the Z420, I could no longer see the Z420 through my main PC network, and couldn't access the internet on the Z420 anymore. I figure I must have putzed up a network setting somehow, as I'm not too experienced in such things. After a few hours of wrestling with Windows 10, I found that because it was unregistered, I couldn't change workgroups, so I gave up. Thats when I tried Ubuntu Server, and when I started having more issues. The HD5780 wasn't outputting any sort of display whenever I'd try to get into Ubuntu, except for on the 12th or so attempt, when it inexplicably finally stopped cutting to a black screen after I chose to start installation. However, unbeknownst to me, Ubuntu Server didnt have a GUI, so I gave up on that and went to TrueNAS. That quickly ruled itself out, as it had no wifi support, and therefore would be useless to me in my dorm (I should have figured from the name to be fair). This section is moreso about my issues with video output, but I figured I'd leave it in to keep this all in one thread, as even though it isn't really the main issue, it did play into the struggle. After that, I moved onto Ubuntu Desktop, which, same as the server variant, wasn't outputting via the HD5870. I swapped it out with an old GTX 645 I had laying around, and THAT card worked with Ubuntu, though only via HDMI. The DVI connector wouldn't output once I left the MOBO BIOS and got into Ubuntu, had to switch to HDMI. That being said, the HD5870 was also hooked up to DVI, as the only other outputs on my card were mini DP, and I didnt want to go through the hassle of unplugging the main monitor of my system to try out the only mini DP to DP cable I have on hand, so I stuck with the GTX 645. Though, Ubuntu would not let me install the proper nVidia drivers, so I was stuck in 600x800 on a 2560x1080 monitor (which was not an issue on Windows 10) BACK TO NETWORK ISSUES! Video irregularities aside, through all these attempted OS changes, I have been unable to figure out a configuration that would allow me to share files between my main PC and the Z420. The only time I was able to even see both entire filesystems of each machine FROM each machine was when I had Windows 10 on the Z420 initially. Through Ubuntu Desktop, I was able to get files FROM the Z420 onto my main PC, at least until I rebooted the Z420 and it all stopped working again. Very frustrated right now, especially with my lack of experience with both networking and Ubuntu. I will also note that the cable I'm using to connect the two is a CAT6 patch cable, which after some reading, may pose an issue? It's very unclear to me on what sort of ethernet cable I should be using in this setup. I have an ETL verified to ANSI/TIA-568-C.2 CAT6 cable as well, though I haven't tried it because its a 50 foot cable, and these PCs are only about 15 feet from eachother. Additionally, the early success I had with even seeing the two PCs communicate on the network in the Windows 10 to Windows 10 attempt leads me to believe (hope) that the current cable is fine. Sorry for the great wall of text, I'm just frustrated after 12 or so hours banging my head against a proverbial wall trying to get something I thought would be simple to work. Also apologize if any of this is fragmented, I was jumping between sections as I wrote this.

Thank you so much! I reset the disk via UniqueID, now it's saying it can indeed be pooled! Appreciate it, thanks a ton for the help!

Alright, I'll start moving the games off the pool real quick so I don't have to reinstall them later, then go ahead and try that

Right on, thanks! It's telling me insufficient capacity, which seems strange considering I have no files on it at the moment. Maybe there really is just some kind of issue with the drive that HW Info wasn't able to pick up?

TL;DR: SAS attached SATA SSDs won't allow one of the drives into a storage pool, but said drive is 100% functional as its own partition Hey guys. I got hold of an LSI SAS 9211-8i and am currently using it to power 4 identical SATA SSDs in my rig. It's working perfectly, but while setting up RAID 0 via Windows Storage Spaces, one of the SSDs refused to be added into the pool. I tried a different identical SSD in place of that one with the same result. Moving drives around to different cables also didn't change anything. That being said, the drive that didn't cooperate in being added to the storage pool is functioning perfectly as its own partition, and HW Info shows that all 4 drives are healthy. I also tried a different SAS - SATA cable, and the 2nd output from the SAS card, with no changes. Its not a huge deal really, and it'd be a bit fiddly to try to reconfigure the pool again since I've already gone and installed games onto the array, but if anyone can think of any reason that it wouldn't allow the 4th drive to be added to the pool, I'll probably try going about fixing it. If it matters, the drives are all Micron 256gb C400 SSDs (mtfddak256mam-1k1), all on the same firmware revision. I attached pics of disk manager and the initial storage pool setup screen, in case any of the other drives would possibly be screwing with it/ in case something looks off in the storage pool setup. Those 4 SSDs are the only thing attached VIA the SAS card, the rest are all using the motherboard's SATA headers, plus an M.2. One thing I HAVE considered is that it's because I didn't have above 4G decoding enabled at the time, but I am hesitant to go uninstall all the games from the array and try it again now that I've enabled it, unless someone thinks that may fix it. Anyways, sorry for the long message, just wanted to try to cover everything I could say about what I know so far. This is my first time messing around with SAS (or RAID, for that matter), so hopefully it'll just be something minor I overlooked. Thanks!

I managed to fix it by updating my motherboard's BIOS! They had an update that patched the microcode iasues, we're back up and running now!

Nevermind, I have fixed it with a BIOS update!