DailyProcrastinator

Leather cover also for cabinet mounting cylinders.
 

Laser-worked  floral-themed radiator grilles.
 

Antec Striker wood series !
 

Cabinet Antec Striker covered with mahogany wood.
 

Here are also the custom cables made by Solid Strands. The care and precision of realization is maniacal with an addition of particularity in the power cord with real black braided nappa leather.
 

Here comes the material from Antec !
 

I am pleased to present the LUXURY project based on the Antec Striker cabinet where the main feature is the aesthetic charm and luxury given by different raw materials and manufacturing processes.
 It will be decorated with mahogany wood, first choice calfskin and alphabetic murrine of Murano.
The combination of chrome products such as the RAM Trident Z Royal of G.Skill and the fittings of the Bitspower will be an optical contrast highlighting the beauty.
The structure is all covered in mahogany wood with sides and front of the cabinet with padded leather and hand-sewn.
A salient feature is to cover the liquid cooling pipes with sewn-on skin.
The idea is to create something compact and beautiful to see that looks good on a desk or rather in the living room.
 
Thanks the sponsors :
 

Reviewing the mini monitor and some graphics tests
 
I have now received the monitor. I've already used it several times just to test it out and see how to navigate on Windows and Linux on such a small screen.
 
https://imgur.com/a/fGbGMFt
 

 
The monitor really is quite thin at 9mm. It's still not a touch screen panel but adding one should not add more than 1 or 2mm to the profile.
 

 
The casing is all metal. Two pieces, one solid piece that is milled out with screw holes and openings, and a metal sheet screwed onto the back. There's one good reason it's not plastic and you'll see why.
 

 
This just needs 4 Philips screws to remove the back. Control board is on the right, with a nice, slim profile, and the monitor buttons are on the left. There is a thermal pad (top right of the speakers) that sits above the main IC of the board when closed. This IC uses the back metal side as a heatsink.
 
If I were to completely remove the monitor from its casing I will need to use a different heatsink to stick on the IC, because the monitor does get warm to the touch when in use.
 
The picture is very clear, great viewing angles given that it's an IPS panel. 1024 x 600 pixels look really crisp in a 7" screen. Just don't expect a smartphone quality panel here, it's still a LCD not a AMOLED. It was hard to take good pictures as it's so bright it just washes everything else out. While the monitor options let you change the brightness, contrast, and color balance, there doesn't seem to be a way to adjust the brightness of the backlight. It's always this intense.
 

 

 
I have gotten two Samsung 4GB RAM sticks now, so the benchmark score is with dual-channel RAM.
 
Samsung 2133 MHz DDR4 SODIMM 4GB x2 - $22
Total - $239
 
The speakers were pretty disappointing, however. When plugged into the wall, the monitor speakers didn't sound that loud even at maximum volume. Still hard to hear some things in media players where you can push its maximum past 100%. I also have plugged in the monitor's USB power to one of the USB ports of the computer. The manual doesn't suggest it, but it does power the monitor fine (I have measured 5W powering it at the wall).
 
When it's powered by USB, the speakers begin to buzz and crackle in a matter of minutes. Could be from ground loop interference. I guess this is why the manual doesn't mention plugging it to one of the USB ports of the computer.
 
I may have to unplug the speakers for this build and figure out what I'll have to do for sound. There are better speakers for small DIY projects but they can also draw more power, and I'll have to be mindful of that in a battery-powered setup.

After 8 long faithful years I finally swapped out my very first motherboard, an MSI Z87-G45. It was the last remaining part surviving the purge of beginner parts for big boy components from RAM, CPU, PSU, drives, you name it, this mobo outlasted it all. For a solid 5 years it ran in tandem with an overclocked Intel i5 4690k @ 4.3 mHz, Kingston HyperX Fury 2x8 DDR3 2400 mHz, and GTX 770 SLI. (Janky I know, but it worked flawlessly.) I would have waited out the rest of the boards days and populated more DIMM slots, but the Cooler Master 212 Evo w/ dual fans makes a clearance issue forcing you to not use it or use low profile RAM on ATX boards, which the HyperX is not by any means. Nor can you get more DDR3 HyperX at those speeds without scouring the internet with a fine tooth comb. 
 
This machine is my personal daily driver that I use frequently to play video games and use for school work which involves a lot of playing around in GIS software. So I saved up my nickels and dimes over the pandemic and last month bought a new mobo to replace the old one, switched from team blue to red with a 3700x and decided to cool it with a Corsair H150i, obligatory upgrade from 2x8GB to 2x16GB, and revamped my cooling situation by picking up some Noctua case fans. 
First picture is the complete new build working as intended. Below is a complete PCPartPicker list including peripherals, and excluding a 7 port USB 3.0 PCI hub made by the small Chinese firm Orico. 
 
Temperatures are acceptable, 1% lows idle are about 27C, 1% highs under full load are 63C, average idle is about 32C, while average full load is approximately 55C.  Although Corsair iCue in my opinion is worse than any plague in history and I think this software frequently malfunctioning is directly responsible for increasing my average and 1% full-load CPU temps by 25-50%. During testing and breaking in the new components, about a week ago I had to force-restart my system after Civ 6 crashed. iCue was very much not a fan of that, and failed to recognize the pump in the software forcing it in "safe mode" which blinks the LED's red, and fans operate at 100%. A few restarts and forced firmware updates it fixed, but since then my data has been skewed towards running hotter and fluctuating throughout the range a lot more often. I unfortunately somewhat need the software since my RAM, AIO, and keyboard lights are all configured through it. 
 
The second picture is NZXT CAM software, responsible for managing 4 LED strips off an NZXT Hue 2 and changing colour according to CPU temperatures. Temperatures broadcasted from this software are as accurate as resource monitor, and a program called Core Temp, validating it's accuracy. Picture 3 is CPUZ software showing the maximum stable frequency achieved through AMD Ryzen Master auto-overclock. Keeping CPU temps chilly while under full load hours at a time is obviously a must if I am to keep these parts for at least 10 years. Upgrading from a 4690k @ 4.3 gHz, 45C 1% highs after 4 hours of Witcher 3 gainz. Instead liquid cooling  with the Corsair H150i, the CPU cooler I used had 2x120mm fans attached to the heatsink in push/pull. Replacing the triple radiator was a top 2x120mm exhaust and a Blu-ray drive. (RIP In Peace, it won't fit now w/ new cooler) Noctua p14's replaced the stock 6 year old dying 140mm fans that came with the case (Corsair 750D) set up as 2 intake and 1 exhaust. Combined the old setup worked as a low pressure system because of the sheer volume of air circulating through the system, but now operates as an ambient air cooler and provides the radiator with cold air. 
 
Pictures 3 and 4 are of my battlestation which was finished right before the pandemic. The monitor is an Asus VG32VQ 31.5" curved 16:9 VA panel @ 144 hz and 4ms gtg response time. I would go all out on a banging ultrawide or IPS panel but I'm limited by physical space in the hutch of my desk. Keyboard is a Corsair K70 Cherry MX Brown, Mouse is a Logitech g502 Proteus Spectrum, then for audio / comms I typically use a Logitech g935. Personalized goodies are a bunch of Bionicles, a rubber chicken, Lego ISS, and a bunch of different types of rocks then minerals including fools gold and raw asbestos. Oh yes and I drilled small holes in my wooden desk to properly cable manage a 1080p webcam, and an xbox one with zero airflow that runs like a furnace. No clue why.  
Type Item Price CPU AMD Ryzen 7 3700X 3.6 GHz 8-Core Processor $319.99 @ Newegg CPU Cooler Corsair iCUE H150i ELITE CAPELLIX 75 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler $189.99 @ Amazon Motherboard Gigabyte X570 AORUS ELITE WIFI ATX AM4 Motherboard $219.99 @ Amazon Memory Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 CL16 Memory $326.70 @ Amazon Storage HP S600 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive   Storage Seagate FireCuda Compute 2 TB 2.5" 5400RPM Hybrid Internal Hard Drive $207.00 @ Amazon Video Card MSI GeForce RTX 2070 8 GB TRI FROZR Video Card   Case Corsair 750D ATX Full Tower Case $109.99 @ Newegg Power Supply EVGA G2 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply   Operating System Microsoft Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit $139.88 @ Other World Computing Case Fan Noctua P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan $14.95 @ Amazon Case Fan Noctua P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan $14.95 @ Amazon Case Fan Noctua P14s redux-1500 PWM 78.69 CFM 140 mm Fan $14.95 @ Amazon Case Accessory NZXT HUE 2 RGB Lighting Kit LED Controller   Monitor Asus TUF GAMING VG32VQ 31.5" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor $427.99 @ Amazon Keyboard Corsair K70 RGB MK.2 Wired Standard Keyboard $159.99 @ Amazon Mouse Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum Wired Optical Mouse $74.98 @ Amazon Headphones Logitech G935 7.1 Channel Headset $119.99 @ Newegg Speakers Logitech Z150 0 nW 2.0 Channel Speakers $19.99 @ Adorama   Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts     Total $2361.33   Generated by PCPartPicker 2021-03-03 20:49 EST-0500    

Hi all, so after like a few years of playing around with the idea of building this pc, I finally managed to do it and upgrade from my pre-built, I went for the a clean look with the mix of affordability and performance, since parts here are quite expensive for computers. I was surprised on how easy this was, however I did take about one and a half hours of cable management, since I was trying my best to make it clean, overall from the front I feel like it looks fine, while the other side isn't messy but could be better. The W10 install also had some issues, however I manage to fix it with some help from LTT Forums . Anyways let me know what you all think! I'm quite happy of the build.
 
Specs:
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600
Motherboard: Gigabyte Aorus B550m Elite
Ram: G.Skill Sniper X 16GB 3600MHz
GPU: Asus TUF GTX 1660 Super 6GB
Storage: 256GB Klevv C700 M.2 + 1TB Crucial MX500
PSU: Corsair RM650 Gold
Case: Tecware M3+
CPU Cooler: Stock
 
 

Sun Microsystems UltraSPARC 1 CPU die mounted in a keyring fob. 
 
64 bit, 143MHz, 2x16KiB cache, 3.8M transistors, 500nm, circa 1995.
 
I wrote my first 64-bit code in C on the first systems built using this chip, one quarter of a century ago.
 
UltraSPARC Wikipedia article

Weirdo time, ION x ai03 Equinox, built with very old Cherry MX Blacks:

I type with a variation of the Colemak layout, hence the weird position of the '?/' key. Also, Caps Lock is my Backspace. Keys to reflect the actual layout are still on their way.
 

Without any info to back that up there is no value to that information. Unless someone can provide concrete evidence, than that is a different story, but in this case, it is not. Sounds like this person is just conveying their own personal bias and opinion, not actually providing sound advice or info. 
 
Corsair and Seasonic have both made Good PSU's and Bad PSU's, I personally would not rate one better than the other, it comes down to the specific units you are comparing. And in this instance the Corsair TXm is better. 

A Tier A PSU is better than Tier B. Thus making the decision pretty straight forward. The TXm it is a well made PSU with good warranty.
 
Seems like an unfound bias, what have you heard that makes SeaSonic better? 

Looks like a pretty standard fan cable length. Because motherboards have a wide variety of fan header locations the cable isn't always long enough.
 
You need to either use an extension cable to reach an open header, or use a splitter to attach two fans to a closer header.

So here's my two. The bottom one is a G Pro with Romer-G tactiles that ended up getting some pretty good blue LED failure after about 6 months. Currently use it for my XP rig whenever I use it with the backlight set to red and saved to memory.
 
The top one is my current daily driver which is a G Pro X with tactiles (the RMA replacement for the first board), and now it's slowly starting to develop blue LED failure as well (currently just a slight red tinge on the S key, just like how it started on the first one). Kinda hoping by running this hot pink (which uses the blue as fully as possible) I can coax some more LEDs to fail to get yet another replacement.

Found my original GeForce 256 DDR. This was ungodly expensive for the teenage me at the time. Walked thru snow to buy it at a local shop for I think 399CAD.

Uniting a classic with it's new boxed home, and goodies.

Found something nice today

After a couple years of service my K70 LUX is officially retired from active duty. Not that I was really using it at all the past few months, but it remained on my desk if I needed a numpad, but no more!
 
Hmmmm what will take it's rightful place? 🤔

 
Also thinking of doing a giveaway for my K70? Not sure how that would work yet. Gotta spend some time figuring out how. 

Seems within reason, if you clip, lube, and use the included stab foam stickers that would help for sure. 

the dopest sound card of 2007, because stock audio on my laptop is awful and expresscard is the greatest slot ever made
 

Here is the forerunner to the smart watch.

A gps watch with no maps just location data and a cool nav watch.
Launched in 2009

Seems within reason, if you clip, lube, and use the included stab foam stickers that would help for sure. 

For the price, and rating. These are great value, and decent enough units:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/Rxprxr/seasonic-s12iii-650-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-ssr-650gb3
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/R2mxFT/corsair-power-supply-cp9020103na
 
Although the outright best option for the money would be:
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/2HbwrH/corsair-rmx-2018-650w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020178-na
However if $110 is a stretch the other 2 options will suffice. That said it could be seen as an investment if you have upgrade plans in the future. The RMx series is a high quality Tier A unit, with 10-year warranty.