DailyProcrastinator

I recommend running it. Here are helpful sources on how to do so: https://www.tomshardware.com/how-to/how-to-test-ram

Worth mentioning that the SN550 is DRAM-less, for an OS drive having DRAM cache is worth consideration. Other cost friendly alternatives with DRAM cache are: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pxKcCJ/crucial-p1-1tb-m2-2280-solid-state-drive-ct1000p1ssd8 https://pcpartpicker.com/product/HmmFf7/sabrent-rocket-q-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-sb-rktq-1tb https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9vWBD3/kingston-a2000-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-sa2000m81000g

Have your run MemTest? Unfortunately you might not be able to go past 3066Mhz. Not entirely uncommon, just to bad since you have 3600Mhz memory. Also for reference this is down to a mem control issue with the chipset or CPU.

Monitor your temps with HWMonitor64 if GPU temps are high it could casue thermal throttling, in that case you likely need to re-paste the GPU, it could be 4+ years old at this point.

Welcome to the forum! Sorry to hear about your problems. Please provide full specs. Was this GPU an upgrade?

Increase voltage, as long as you are below 1.450V it is safe.

Sorry so used to AMD settings with new Mobos, disregard that and just adjust DRAM frequency and DRAM voltage. Yes no need for a Bios update then.

Welcome to the forum! Honestly mileage can vary with a Mem OC, this doesn't mean it can't OC though. XMP is basically just an auto OC mode for memory, clearly it cannot accept the XMP profile. Since you cannot enable XMP you can attempt to manually adjust DRAM speed and voltage. First make sure your memory is in the correct slots (check your manual). Then download and run MemTest86, make sure there are no issues with your memory kit, if you have the all clear do so as follows. Check for a Bios update, if there is an available update that pertains to memory stability etc then I would recommend doing so, if the update is not associated with memory then I would not bother at this time. Go into Bios and disable XMP, then go to advanced settings, then AI tweaker (sorry for Asus terminology, only Bios I know well). From there you are going to want to adjust your memory frequency, I generally recommend single incremental jumps, so beginning from 2666MHz you would go to 2700Mhz, then go down to DRAM Voltage and set it to 1.3500V, and lastly set SOC voltage to 1.100V. Save and exit Bios. If you get caught in a boot loop and the settings reset to default you know the memory OC was not stable. If stable enough to post into Windows then run a quick stress test, I recommend Cinebench R15 (runs faster than R20) and if stable restart and post boot into Bios. Also, keep in mind stable in a quick stress test is not the same as stable during a gaming session or heavy workloads. Windows stop codes related to memory will let you know that your memory OC is not stable. If you hit instability along the way start upping the DRAM voltage by increments of 0.010V (so 1.360V, 1.370V, 1.380V... etc) until stable, I would not recommend exceeding 1.450V though. So once stable at 3066MHz you can push further, 3133MHz, 3200MHz, 3266MHz, 3333MHz, and so forth, each time testing stability, possibly adjusting voltage and this is how you OC your memory, eventually you will hit a wall. Hopefully you can achieve 3600Mhz. Quick and dirty method: Set all Bios settings to default, boot into Windows, Run MemTest86, get the all clear, boot back into Bios, set DRAM Voltage to 1.400V, SOC to 1.100V, mem frequency to 3200MHz, and give it a go, if stable push to 3600MHz.

Welcome to the forum! I mean there already is on the shelf products. Or do these not meet your needs? https://www.pcmag.com/picks/the-best-portable-monitors

If you do not plan to OC you are likely fine with the 750W G3, also a Tier A- PSU.

The GX is the updated model that does not have these issues. If you do not plan to OC you are likely fine with the 750W G3, also a Tier A- PSU.

Solid choice!

I would test it out, if the PSU is not heavily tasked the fans may barely spin up, but if you are noticing fan noise coming from the PSU often I would recommend moding the case, drill a large hole, or several small ones and put a dust filter underneath, that would solve your issue should it arise. Also, keep in mind that to check for heat coming from the PSU you can place your hand near the back of it and it would be pretty noticeable if a lot of heat is coming from it.

650W will be enough, and the RM is a quality unit. If you want to go for an all out OC on the CPU and GPU consider a 750W unit.

Welcome to the forum! While you could get away with a 650W PSU the P650B is not great, to be clear it is also not terrible. Ranked as a Tier C PSU on the tier list, if it was me I would for a quality 750W Tier A PSU to play it safe. But you might be 'okay' using the PSU you have. You just have to ask yourself if you are fine with the potential risk. With sustained loads for longer periods of time it could damage other hardware in your system if you encounter voltage ripple issues etc. Considering the cost investment of your GPU it is not a terrible idea to upgrade the PSU.

There have been issues with the Seasonic Focus Plus units but the Prime and new GX units are good. 750W would be more than enough for a 3070. Refer to this list: I recommend a quality Tier A unit, something like a Corsair TXm, RM, RMX often are a good buy (depending on region). Where are you located?

Nvidia recommends a 750W PSU, so 850W should be fine. 1000W is playing safe especially if you are panning to OC and do a custom loop. Where are you located?

Totally missed the 'M' lol. The CXm is a Tier C unit, refer to this list: I mistakenly thought you were referring to the CX. I would recommend going for a Tier B (or better) PSU for a build like yours, 550W is enough though.

If you are referring to the grey label unit, then yes you are okay. If you do not already own the PSU I would recommend something like the Corsair TXm as it is a bit better quality, but the CX is not a bad PSU.

I meant what PSU model.

Unless the PSU shroud is perforated it literally will not do anything, and even if it is, unless OP already has the fans it is a huge waste of money, they will not make any noticeable difference in temps.

Pointless, even if the PSU shroud it slightly perforated, between that and the cables this will not aid airflow in any meaningful way. What case is this and how many front intake fans do you have?

550W is enough. But what is the exact model you are looking at?

Check task manager when this happens, see how hard the CPU is getting hit. I have the new XPS13 2-in-1 (i7) as well and from time to time the fan will become audible, my persistent issue was installed bloatware that was using a lot of recourses without my knowledge, I cannot remember what it was but I ended up uninstalling it and it helped. Fan still ramps up with certain tasks though, this is to be expected with a thin ultrabook.

You can't see it though so not necessary.