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TheDailyProcrastinator

Member
  • Content Count

    4,355
  • Joined

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About TheDailyProcrastinator

  • Title
    Veteran

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    The Great White North, AB, Canada
  • Occupation
    Web Development and Software Implementation

System

  • CPU
    AMD Ryzen 7 3800X
  • Motherboard
    ASUS X470 ROG Crosshair VII Hero Wi-Fi AC
  • RAM
    Corsair Vengeance RGB Pro DDR4 32GB (2x16GB) CL16 - 3200MHz OC'd to 3466MHz
  • GPU
    EVGA GTX 1080Ti SC Black Edition 11GB
  • Case
    Fractal Design Meshify C TG - ATX Mid Tower
  • Storage
    1x HP EX920 1 TB NVME M.2 SSD (Boot Drive), 2x WD Blue 500GB 2.5" SSD's (Raid 0), 2x Seagate Barracuda 1TB 7200RPM 3.5" HDD's (Raid 0), 1x Seagate FireCuda 2TB Hybrid 2.5" HDD (Games Storage Library), ORICO Aluminium 4-Bay 3.5 inch USB3.0 SATA HDD External Hard Drive Enclosure w/ 4x Seagate IronWolf NAS 8TB 7200RPM 3.5" HDD's (Raid 10)
  • PSU
    EVGA SuperNOVA 850W P2 w/ EVGA Individually Sleeved Blue Cables, CyberPower 1500 VA 900W UPS
  • Display(s)
    Asus ROG SWIFT PG348Q 34" Curved Ultrawide 100Hz IPS Monitor - 3440x1440, Dell Ultrasharp 34" U3417W Curved Ultrawide 60Hz IPS Monitor - 3440x1440
  • Cooling
    CRYORIG R1 Universal w/ Blue Customod Cover & ML Pro Fans, 4x Corsair ML120 Pro Blue LED Fans, 3x Corsair ML140 Pro Blue LED Fans
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 LUX Cherry MX Brown RGB Keyboard
  • Mouse
    Corsair SCIMITAR PRO RGB MMO Gaming Mouse
  • Sound
    Bose Companion 20 Multimedia Speaker System, Audio-Technica ATH-M50xMG Limited Edition Headphones - Matte Gray
  • Operating System
    Microsoft Windows 10 Pro (64-Bit)
  • Laptop
    Dell XPS13 (2017), i7-7550U, 16GB DDR3 1866Mhz RAM, 1TB NVME M.2, QHD+ (4K) InfinityEdge Touch Display, Dell D6000 USB-C Dock
  • PCPartPicker URL

Recent Profile Visitors

2,871 profile views
  1. In short, no. I mean in theory you could load up a 3.5" enclosure with a ton of controller, DRAM cache, and NAND chips, but it would be excessive and unnecessary.
  2. Remove the old drive and install a fresh copy of windows on the new SSD, you can do so by creating a USB installation media found HERE. Once done re-install the old HDD and change boot priority to the new SSD, this will keep everything on the old drive but your OS would be on the SSD, move files if needed or use the old HDD as legacy storage.
  3. That's how a blower card vents air... out the back, that is why they sometimes are recommended for SFF builds as they do not vent the hot air inside the case, but instead directly out the vented cutouts on the back.
  4. I mean no manufacturer would accidentally make cutouts, that is for ventilation.
  5. Yeah but the physical GPU comes from Nvida so other than different cooler designs and better VRM limits (IF you were to OC), there is not much difference between these cards. The Asus dual is fine, getting a better 2080Ti is going to yield virtually no distinguishable performance boost. Well at this point all this info is not yet concrete, so I won't ad to speculation. We need to wait a few more months to get more info from AMD themselves. Manually overclocking memory is actually pretty easy. Go into Bios and disable XMP, (excuse the Asus terminology, it is the only bios I know well), then go to advanced settings, then AI tweaker. From there you are going to want to adjust your memory frequency, I generally recommend single incremental jumps, starting at 3000MHz you would go to 3066Mhz, then go down to DRAM Voltage and set it to 1.3500V. Save and exit Bios. As mentioned earlier if you get caught it a boot loop and the settings reset to default you know the memory OC was not stable. If stable enough to post into Windows then run a quick stress test, I recommend Cinebench R15 (runs faster than R20) and if stable restart and post boot into Bios. Also, keep in mind stable in a quick stress test is not the same as stable during a gaming session. Windows stop codes related to memory will let you know that your memory OC is not stable. If you hit instability along the way start upping the DRAM voltage by increments of 0.010V (so 1.360V, 1.370V, 1.380V... etc) until stable, I would not recommend exceeding 1.450V though. So once stable at 3066MHz you can push further, 3133MHz, 3200MHz, 3266MHz, 3333MHz, and so forth, each time testing stability, possibly adjusting voltage and this is how you OC your memory, eventually you will hit a wall. For me this 'wall' was 3466MHz at 1.3750V, but at 3533MHz even at 1.450V I was not stable. As said before mileage may vary. Even at 3033MHz you may not be stable at all. But it is fun to try! Tightening memory timings is a little more involved, you can spend more time researching this. Here are some good sources: Monitors are a preference thing for sure, get what you like, but I think this is the best addition to your gaming rig, a high refresh rate 1440p monitor will go a long way. No problem!
  6. User-benchmark is not a good piece of software to use, there is literally memes about it. That and there is not that much of a performance squeeze with overclocking the 3800x, it pretty well comes OC'd out of the box. Something like 3Dmark or using real reviews from trusted sources is recommended. I would wait one more generation, single generational leaps do not yield amazing results. Wait for Ryzen 4000 series.
  7. Welcome to the forum! There is no GPU to upgrade to from a 2080Ti. Going NVME will make ZERO difference. Waste of money. I'd wait for next gen Ryzen 4000, much better investment, single generational upgrades are not worth it in my opinion. While a CL16 kit would be "better" it does not warrant an upgrade if running with XMP mode on at 3600MHz that is good enough. And if you want to spend the time you can manually clock your memory and tighten up your timings to make up for this. If you are running with XMP mode on though there is no stability issues here so nothing to worry about. This is the only thing you should upgrade, a 2080 Ti is going to 'bottleneck' your CPU at 1080p gaming nor do you fully utilize your GPU. Get a high refresh rate 1440p G-sync display. I would go 27" or 34" ultrawide. I recommend: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ttnG3C/acer-monitor-xb271hubmiprz https://pcpartpicker.com/product/XvfmP6/asus-monitor-pg279q OR: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/gwzFf7/asus-rog-swift-pg349q-340-3440x1440-120-hz-monitor-pg349q
  8. Get the dual channel CL16 kit. Yes, this is an overspend, maybe consider just going for the Corsair RGB Pro kit but otherwise a dual channel kit with lower latency is going to be best.
  9. Well more spent does not ad much more performance, the best high response option is: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/ZmgzK8/asus-rog-strix-xg258q-245-1920x1080-monitor-xg258q But I would get: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JgCFf7/asus-tuf-gaming-vg279qm-270-1920x1080-280-hz-monitor-vg279qm
  10. I know what you mean, but between input lag and response time they are going to be pretty well identical:
  11. Get the https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/fTmFf7/asus-tuf-gaming-vg259q-245-1920x1080-144-hz-monitor-vg259q it is IPS. I mean you only have like 3 options within budget and those specs anyways: https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/products/monitor/#r=192001080&D=144000,280000&A=3,2&sort=price&P=2
  12. Not really it would be pretty well indistinguishable. At higher refresh rate panel often does not get any lower than 1ms regardless. Well that is not the best deal, the best 'deal' would be: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/yH7p99/msi-optix-mag272crx-270-1920x1080-240-hz-monitor-optix-mag272crx
  13. You could go external for storage, makes more sense IMO. Spending $200 on an old laptop is not worth it.
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