William_D

Hardware Unboxed does the best monitor reviews. Take especial notice to the real response time's and the overshoot needed to reach that response. This will effect how clear movement looks, in the same way refresh rate makes it look smooth. Very few of the "1ms response time" monitors actually hit this metric without massive amounts of overshoot. (Makes a double image with trailing color shifts after moving objects.)
 
Link to Hardware Unboxed:
https://youtube.com/c/Hardwareunboxednow
 
 

One thing is a monitor can’t make your machine faster.  It can make it slower (sort of) by simply displaying stuff as fast as it can and if that’s not as fast as the hardware can push, oh well.    All it can do is display stuff.  So question#1 is how much pixel pushing power do you have in the first place?  This is a factor of your GPU and your CPU. There’s no point in putting a monitor capable of massive thoughput on a machine that doesn’t and never will have any.
 
27” (or smaller, sometimes much smaller) is generally considered the largest screen size that is useful for 1080p except in quite specific situations.  I’ve heard the term “Lego pixels” used for bigger stuff.  Likewise 4k starts to get kind of stupid for little screens too.  
 
Latency doesn’t matter for video, but it can matter a whole lot for retro platformers.  Whether that 1ms matters or not depends a lot on what you are doing. 
 
Port type can also matter a lot. Different systems can only transmit so much.  If you get a monitor that can handle twice as much as what you can put through the port it will still work, but it wont work any better than one that could handle twice as much. 
 
So things that need to be known:  
1. how much and what kind of horsepower do you have to run this thing.  Need computer specs for this one.
2. how physically large a monitor do you want? Bigger ones are more expensive, and what can’t fit in your space can’t fit in your space. 
3. What do you want to display ON the thing? Faster, brighter, or more color accurate stuff can handle things that don’t need speed, but if you don’t need speed you don’t need speed.  Also there’s other factors.  Color accuracy or HDR may or may not be a big deal.  It depends on use case. 
4. is there a budget?  There are $5000 monitors out there and there are $50 monitors out there.
 
It’s one of those wheel ratio things:  bigger vs. faster, vs. brighter vs. more color accuracy vs. more money. 

i've read a user report of that one, he said, the Trackpad is kinda on Macbook level.
Meaning, the biggest jump is beeing clickable everywhere, and not just the bottom half, making it an even experience.
I didn't try, but i'd be sceptical. MacOS does (some) Gestures much better than Windows, regardless of Sensel.
 
Why don't you tell us how you want to use it? What software will be used, what specific aspects are most important to you?
 
I might sound like an Apple Fanboy, but seeing it purely objectively:
I think, for basic tasks like "college laptop", without anything super specific, look it the M1 Macbooks do all you need, and if yes, take them. If not, THEN look for an alternative.
 
M1 Macbook Air for example, the M1 delivers a superb everyday-performance (even background updates won't make it flinch), it brings a superb battery life and battery efficiency (when you start doing stuff, battery doesn't suddenly drop exponentially), and it's silent because it has no Fan.
M1 Macbook Pro is silent too, beause only in 100% Load situations the Fan starts.
But this "holy trinity" is like unbeatable and such a HUGE deal in everyday usage. Performance, battery life, and zero noise.
 
But aside from that, it does most things right: Trackpad is best in class, keyboard is finally good (not best, but good), build quality is superb, it's small, thin and light, resale value is huge, MacOS does many things right and good, Speakers are at the Top in this class, Display is great (high res, good color calibration, 400 nits bright 16:9).
Only bummer beeing 256gb ssd and 8gb Ram, and upgrades are expensive. And not repairable.
 
Thinkpads do seem much more ruggid, i have a T480s from Work, and i believe it won't break as easily. But i like using the Macbook SO much more and would prefer it any time of the day. Still, i do see the benfits of beeing sturdy and reliable, and Thinkpads have a great Linux support, and if these Things are more important for you, the higher Thinkpad models are really great devices.
 
But take a look at this: 
 
 
Josh makes incredibly good reviews, and it's really surprising how much those similar Thinkpads differ from each other. Even Trackpads are different, Keyboards, Displays and even Build quality is different from each other.

I’m hearing good things about the surface4 and m1 MacBooks.  The conventional wisdom with a college computer is it’s going to be dragged around to a lot of places and spend a lot of time on battery and in a backpack, so things like case quality can matter a lot more.  Something flimsy can break easily and that can be life changing.  A computer that doesn’t fall apart can matter a lot.   Power isn’t usually that gigantic a deal because universities tend to have front line equipment available when truely rugged stuff gets done, and classwork is frequently managed by a professor to not be too horrifically processor intensive, and when it is there is the big iron around. Most of your time will be spent reading and typing stuff so screen quality and keyboard quality can matter quite a bit as well.  You want something that doesn’t get in your way too much because time is often at a premium. 

There are no downsides of going with external gear, especially at that price. Keep the volume on windows at 100%, and adjust the sound directly on the amp.
 
Agreed on that. The Asgard 3 will be a better match. Albeit I don't have the Asgard any longer, I used it with the 650 and a Bifrost 2 for quite a while, and it was a decent setup.

go into the BIOS and check that the 970 is at the top of the boot list?
 
Also, after files are copied, unplug the USB.  

Try forcing UEFI and Legacy mode INDIVIDUALLY, instead of the mixed Legacy/UEFI mode that some motherboards have.

The two pins used for the PWM connector on a PWM D5 pump are Signal & Tach (not Signal & Ground).

I asked ASUS about this on my B350-F Gaming.
They told me it was a "debug port, such as for reading the BIOS and checking system diagnostics".
 
You don't need to use it.

Those sorts of headers are typically used for:
- Diagnosis (reading out certain info from the board, like BIOS version)
- Programming a chip (ICSP/ISP header is the typical name. It being rather close to a chip under it could support that)
- Headers for jumpers (to turn on/off certain features of the board)
 
In any case, it's not a header a user/consumer would need/want to use, which is why it's unlabeled in the manual and probably has no info on the silkscreen about it

Thanks!
Yeah, I'll  never use it, but when you sitt there for hours working on your rig. It bugs me to look at something i have no idea what its for. Now i know, and can build in peace.

I would wager if its not labeled or documented anywhere, its probably a debugging port then for Asus for RMAs. 

They do have capacitors in so don't go around touching shit and give it a bit of time powered off to let the capacitors discharge but its not as bad as power supplies. Also don't do it while its plugged in.

It looks pretty simple to take apart. If your handy with a screw driver your probably manage it fine. Just take any components off and make sure the metal is dry before putting it back together.

Spec wise the magni modi is better but its like comparing you 110mph BMW to a 105mph Mercedes. It dont matter when your on the motorway limited to 60mph.

The hel puts out 200mW of power at 300ohms the magi modi thing puts out 410mW @300ohms

The Senhisier HD650s have a sensitivity of 100dB at 1mW. So which ever way the amps are drastically over kill. Puts the max volume of the Hel at around 122dB and the magi modi at around 125dB. So not massive difference in max volume but both way too loud that it doesnt matter since going over 90to100dB for long periods will result in hearing damage.

Magi and the Hel have the exact same signal to noise of 104dB or 115dB


Both devices drastically over kill to the point neither matter as you wont benefit over any statically difference one has over the other nor be able to tell the difference. The point its so meaningless I kept mixing up the tabs I think half the stats I got the wrong way around.


The Hel looks nice in my opinion and maybe in the future that mic input will be helpful. Also bit smaller then two things stacked ontop of one another and looks like a nice volume knob. Dont need RCA cables with the Hel. Like who the fuck uses RCA cables like its still the 80s. Wake up audio world we've technologically advanced and can make better connectors for cheaper dont have to keep using naff RCA.

Flip a coin?



Also unless you got sound problems or money to burn (and if the latter my I recommend strippers instead) I doubt you'll notice any major difference over built in computer audio if its got good enough volume and no interface. If you have volume problems I said youve got a super shitty computer or a problem as the HD650s are not hard to get a good volume.

tahts a super clean sounding stack built on great measurements. while personally Im a fan of the modious cause its a nice DAC that does Balanced for $200 and competers well with other offerings I dont quite like the magnius a little too linear sounding for a headphone like a 650  which likes a little warmth. Instead of the magnius I would switch out with the asgard 3 a great amp that isn't quite class A but sounds the part and to me is a better pairing with the 650 than the magnius. another good paring with the 650 specifically is the ifi zen DAC and zen Can . specifically the zen can signature which is an amp specifically designed to pair well with the 650. 

Im probably going to end up going custom as well. But wanted to see what you could get off the shelf. Thanks alot for the effort! 🙂

I found a few for the Original Evlox, but not much for Evolv X
https://www.kitguru.net/components/cooling/damien-cox/ces-alphacool-updates-is-watercooling-solutions-for-gpus-and-cpus/
 
Lots of people making their own (might be a little bit helpful)
 

Not in a big way, pump speed has not so much impact on thermals. I can't vouch for the accuracy of my flow meter, but when I once tried to aim for 1 gpm (an arbitrary gold standard), I needed something on the order of 60~75% pump speed. Nowadays I run my pump at 30% constant speed, iirc. 

One D5 will be plenty. I have 2 GPU water locks, 1 cpu water lock, gts240 and gts360 with plenty of bends and angled fittings.

Yes, but it's going to be significantly more difficult filling and draining. You're likely going to need a splitter, a valve, spare tubes, and a bunch of towels. Or you could get those "quick disconnect" tubes. Not entirely sure how those work though.
Yes, but only marginally less. If you're going to go this approach (without a res), you're probably better off buying an AIO. It'll be cheaper, performance only a couple degrees warmer, and you won't have to go through the process of assembling and maintaining the loop. 

Because a monoblock is also cooling the VRM and chipset? That would put more heat in to the block, but if the rest of the loop is adequate then it won't be an issue.
Even without a monoblock the power delivery and chipset are still generating heat, it's just being transferred to the air inside of the case instead of directly in to the water cooling loop. The benefit of the monoblock is those components are cooled by the water loop and whatever extra heat that puts in to the water cooling loop is heat that would have otherwise been left in the components (higher VRM/Chipset temperatures) or transferred to the air in the case.

Thanks!

Fans or pump? Either part should outlast your system. Even if they don't you'll make it to the 5 year mark easily enough. And you can transfer them to another system if you wish. Some have went on for longer though. My D5 is approaching 6 years old this year and is still going strong.

Between the VIII Hero? Then get the VII Hero.