Spakes

Exactly how flawed are their methods? I'm not sure you captured every detail of their methodology while translating to your language.

Well, there are constant changes in frequency most likely. Plus all the background stuff, as Chen said. 10 degrees is a fine margin, nothing to worry about. Plus your temps can stabilise under load, which is a sign of a nice contact of CPU with cooler.

Duration-wise - yes, multiplier-wise - no. Well done, that's quite a decent bump in score.

Usually there is, but only to related part. Also, make sure you don't mix metals within one loop, otherwise it's gonna get gross... Depends on complexity of the build and your experience. Sure, just don't forget to carefully plug fans back on (as well as all LED stuff if present, and maybe fan controller like on RTX reference line-up), reapply some good thermal paste, and save or put new thermal pads at the same places they were when you disassembled your GPU. Something like MX-4 and Arctic Cooling Pads are gonna be nice things to use as a replacements for stock thermal paste and pads.

They die all of a sudden (which is way too unexpecting for an SSD from a reputable brand), and their Blue line up with 3D NAND? Doesn't even reach its stated resource before dying. WD greens are ain't that bad, but they die suddently, too... Can't say anything about blacks, though... Source: https://3dnews.ru/938764/page-3.html#Western%20Digital%20Blue%20SSD

It is, but it's basically like walking on thin ice, if it's too old.

Whatever you do, stay away from WD SSDs... Unlike their HDDs, those are terrible af... Better go for 860 evo. It does impact loading times and how much free RAM you have (since DRAM-less SSDs use PC RAM for cache purposes).

Did you install your CPU cooler correctly? Sounds like there's no contact between CPU and MoBo, which leads to no pressure on CPU from cooler. Just a guess.

Load in save mode and delete Intel XTU.

You should do it in small steps, start with more reasonable -50 mV (for example), then go a step lower after AIDA64 stability test run.

Every electronic device is a computer of some sort, with its own CPU, RAM and EEPROM. Smart glasses like "Google Glass" aren't exception. Question is what kind of hardware is there: arduino-like or something like Raspberry Pi Zero? That determines most of functionality of glasses. Again, depends on model of aformentioned glasses. Mostly those can carry only messages. Though, there are rare exceptions like Google glass. We are not considering Windows Mixed Reality Headsets, that's worth mentioning, those are another level of wearable tech. You can test it with your phone. See, how small of a text you can read without any problem while having your phone close to your eyes. Add to that result 1-2 points and you'll most probably get something that you can read effortlessly. Which brings us to pdf files... Even if system could read those (like e-readers), you'll have hard time reading those unless you have a big enough screen with decent resolution. So, if you want something like that in smart glasses, fb2 to the rescue. Depends on what you want to have on different sides of your screen. If video from something like youtube and, say, maps, I'd say it's doable, but pointless since you'll have hard time getting info from any of those windows. Depends on whether your device supports BT 5.0, which, if I'm not mistaken, is a requirement for multiconnectivity support. May be wrong, though. It all depends on what types of devices you're trying to connect. Maybe simultaneous keyboard + mouse connection over BT might work. If by "budget" you mean something like 400+ $US, then Raspberry Pi Zero or something similar, special lenses and projectors that are going to be bulky af, most probably. Though, don't quote me on bulky side of things. Well, unless you can add SD card expansion support to your SoC and drivers (if it isn't present, which would require rewriting firmware and drivers), codec support on OS level, there is almost no way you can modify current SoCs to have those. But that's rare, usually those little PCs like Raspberry Pi already have MicroSD slot, so that you could use your SD card as both storage for files AND boot drive with OS on it.

Well, for starters, what is your budget? Also, BX500 has nice NAND chips, but it's cacheless, which is not good...

Seriously? What steps did you make during trying to find an offset?

But the main question is: Are you satisfied with speeds your current rig allows you to do your job with? Are you making money of it? If answers are "Yes and No", then no need for upgrade. Same with "No and No".

Actually, you could go for Ryzen 3700 build for around 2k, I guess.

Did you connect your display to GPU or MoBo? If MoBo, then reconnect to your GPU.

You can undervolt your CPU with ThrottleStop or Intel XTU. Here's a good guide on undervoltiong:

Actually, any modern GPU supports triple monitor setup, as fas as I can say. Even this GT720M. Which means that there's no need for upgrade. Plus he can connect some displays to MoBo.

Just tell him to get GTX 750/950/GT 1030.

Did you connect that part of front IO to your MoBo correctly?

Well, you definetely don't have to have such big cells... They are way too big even for 4K display. I'd say, photos are optional, they don't help much, really.

Well, for one, you can definetely lower some settings from Ultra High to just High. Won't be that much of a difference. Notable examples: shadows, textures, MSAA (from 4x to 2x) and reflections. What you shouldn't touch is AF (x16 is necessary for sharp image and it doesn't eat little to no perfomance), Geometry and Resolution. You can also turn off most of post-processing like DoF, Bloom, Blur, grain, Vignetting, Chromatic Abberation, FXAA.

https://3dnews.ru/938764/page-3.html Those mad lads over 3DNews (russian tech news site) are doing a really nice work of finding out how much data can certain models of SSDs write. Most of info should be understandable with basic Google Translation, but if you'll experience any problems, feel free to PM me, I'll answer as soon as possible. Also if possible, I would love to do russian translation of this spreadsheet, I can give you my GMail in PM, if needed.

Ok, thanks. BTW, did you hear about driver4vr? I plan to get a VR headset because of Beat Saber (mostly, the only game except some sandboxes and archery that makes me want to buy it), but if there are cheaper alternatives that work good enough, I would be glad to learn about them.

Wait, but can Windows MR headsets play VR titles from Steam or it's restricted by stupid DRMs?