Vasllo

I think the first link below might be the software I was thinking of. The 2nd link I don't remember using but I've used their other software before in the distant past.
 
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/sysinternals/downloads/procmon
https://www.nirsoft.net/utils/registry_changes_view.html
 

I haven't. NV isn't really in the business of color accuracy AFAIK, they leave that up to specialty software companies
Honestly, if you're doing this professionally, you should get a monitor with support for color profiles, if you're not, then just live with the fractional inaccuracy. 

The setting must be saved somewhere. I vaguely recall there was some software that could log all system activity, such as changes to registry, but I don't recall what it was called. Something like that could help identify it.
 
Alternatively, colour calibration solutions exist, consisting of a hardware colour sensor and software to create profiles for your display. More used where colour accuracy is important like creative uses. It isn't going to be a low cost solution.

Have you poked through the nvidia-smi documentation?
https://developer.nvidia.com/nvidia-system-management-interface

If the headphone allows me to I usually run high gain just don't make it too loud don't wanna give yourself hearing damage.

You wont blow your headphones. To blow your headphones they will be producing a volume of just under 112dB, which at a inch from your ear drum is insanely loud and would cause hearing damage if you regularly do it for less then a minuet.

obviously you turn it up all the way and rock out, but in the grand schemes headphones are cheap and replaceable your ear isnt.

So yes your correct both impedance and sensitivity should be taken I to account as well as different frequencies being harder to power. With most headphones it's often mid bass. With beyers  especially what happens when they are not powered correctly is they either don't get very loud. Or they sound uncontrolled. This is the power you need given 80 ohms so to power 1khz a motherboard should be able to do but if you look at the chart I provided. In the mid bass region and treble it seems to peak at about 108 ohms.  https://www.headphonesty.com/headphone-power-calculator/?q=eyJpbXBlZGFuY2UiOiI4MCIsImxvdWRuZXNzIjoxMTAsInNlbnNpdGl2aXR5IjoiOTYuMyIsInNlbnNpdGl2aXR5TWVhc3VyZW1lbnQiOiJ3YXR0In0=
 
 
Which honestly doesn't make for a drastic difference 
https://www.headphonesty.com/headphone-power-calculator/?q=eyJpbXBlZGFuY2UiOiIxMDgiLCJsb3VkbmVzcyI6MTEwLCJzZW5zaXRpdml0eSI6Ijk2LjMiLCJzZW5zaXRpdml0eU1lYXN1cmVtZW50Ijoid2F0dCJ9
 
So considering it needs under 2 vrms at it's hardest to power frequencies and if you believe your motherboard really isn't cutting it, to answer your original question yes, the dx1 will be able to power your headphone.
 
Other alternatives 
Meizu hifi pro: like $15 on ali express better than apple dongle sits at 1.75 vrms. 
 
Hiby w3 sabre for $50 really good value features 2 vrms as well as a nice little akm dac.

Not sure on the 250ohm version but according to reviews, the highs are a bit sharper and fatiguing. I had the 250ohm version about almost 3 years ago and I didn't like it because it fatigues quickly. If you already love your DT770 80ohm, go for it. But what about replacing the worn-out parts like the earpads and headband? Beyerdynamic provides a wide range of service parts. You can use the Tygr headband for example, also Tygr earpads or DT880 headband for example. You can make your worn-out DT770 into a new DT770. 

I'd personally go for the DX1 because I don't really like the idea of small dongles that kind of hang off a computer or stuff that are so lightweight that they constantly move around. I like that the DX1 is an actual component that will sit stable on a desktop setup. Unless, of course, you're precisely looking for a dongle to bring with you everywhere.
 
I also like that DX1 has RCA Line Out because this means it can be used to send a clean audio feed to external speakers.

For the 80 Ohm, the bass should definitely improve with amplification. Again, don't go spending hundreds of dollars. Some cheap Topping or SMSL (these are newcomers), or FiiO or Schiit (these two have been in the scene for a long time) should do the trick.
 
The DT 770 Pro are definitely my favorite in my audiophile journey tbh. But that's only because of my huge head and ears. I cannot stand wearing like 99.99% of headphones.
 
You should definitely save up and look at something in the Dan Clark Audio products if you want the next-level upgrade in bass. I briefly owned their Ether C Flow headphones. It was bass heaven, and live recordings genuinely sounded like I was in the room with the band.

What model DT 770 Pro are you getting?
At 32 Ohm, you don't need an amp.
At 80 Ohn, you still don't need an amp, but you will notice that you might have to dial up the volume slightly louder than you would a regular pair of headphones/earbuds. It should still get painfully loud, though.
At 250 Ohm you definitely need an amp. Any amplifier will do.
 
Keep in mind at audiophile products are a massive money sink. As long as you can play music at a comfortable level, and you're capable of hearing the audio with zero electronic noise, there's no reason to spend a ton of money on equipment. Buying better headphones/speakers will always be the better investment for audio improvements.

It should be fine.
 
What I would recommend from  AliExpress is the thing I got... AKLiam PD4.
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/1005004667582728.html
 
As for the onboard Audio, the B460M-Plus from Asus uses the Realtek S1200A. It's one of the beter audio solutions integrated on motherboards.
Way better than the Realtek 897 or 892 or such. So don't expect way better audio, just expect it to be louder and maybe a bit fuller.

Well, another good thing of having an external AMP&DAC or a stack of an AMP and a DAC is - you cah use the same AMP&DAC with your PC-s and other devices - always the same sound.
 
That's also a reason I went with the Akliam PD4. It uses type-c USB and no additional power - so it's compatible with my phones, tablets, PC and laptop.
And it's compact, easy to carry.
 
Look at a Truthear Shio too.

It would just come down to what memory ICs are present on each of those sticks. You can get kits that will not do below CL16 no matter what, and you can get kits that will scale timings down very low. Realistically though the timing differences aren't gonna be enough to justify getting one over another, even if it was a bigger difference with something like B die it's not gonna be something you actually notice compared to just getting a new motherboard instead. 

if the extra pressure is excessive you could break something but the motherboard can take quite a beating, even flexing it a bit isn't much of an issue. this solution seems like it would work fine. I wouldn't want to have to remount this multiple times, the extra strain you put when you're pushing down to reach the threads would end up breaking something if you redo it 5 or 10 times.
but as long as you don't touch it again or waiting for another cooler that does fit i'd trust it.

Make sure you do not open the power supply, touching the wrong stuff inside could kill you.
 
Consider PSU RMA if within warranty.
 
 

They should be able to accept the RMA before you send it off, you could also ask for an advanced replacement.

Do you not have any molex to 6 pin adapters handy? No second PSU on hand to use connectors from it?
It'll boot, just not to your OS. You'll get a message during POST which will say "you must connect supplementary power" or something like that. No way around it that doesn't involve you plugging in the additional connector.

Not it does not it needs all cables to work

each PCI x16 slot on the MB has a max power draw of 75w everything else comes from the power plug on the card. If you're not using risers or anything and just throwing them into your MB in the PCI-E x16 slots then youre fine and good. If you are going to use PCI x1 riser cards then you will start getting into issues as sometimes the 75w draw is too intense for the 12v line on the molex and it melts down every couple months unless you build your own wire with heavier gauge wire.

The thermal pads are probably just shitty. Happened to a big range of MSI mobo's back in the 9xx series of chipsets. The issue was a junk thermal pad on the VRM's, which then leaked it's oils all down the side and back of the boards. Then the pad was useless and the boards would overheat. You can buy replacement pads from Thermal Grizzly, just make sure you buy the right thickness. They come in big squares and you just cut them down to size. Make sure you then clean off the oil really well. Card should work like a champ then, my MSI 990FXa Gaming works wonderfully after all that.

Apparently it's a type of oil that these thermal pads are soaked in:
 

Yeah some thermal pads leech fluid.
It happens.
https://forums.evga.com/Some-type-of-oil-like-substance-comming-out-from-under-the-backplate-GTX-1080ti-sc-gaming-m2732177.aspx

My rule-of-thumb (check my link) is 20% of raw flash or 15% of user-accessible, depending, but it varies widely depending on the drive's design and intended workload. I don't think the world will end with less than 10% free on a SSD but, yes, generally you do not want to exceed 90% drive usage, it will impact performance and endurance, although I think with consumer usage the latter is not a huge problem. Performance depends on the drive - e.g. a DRAM-less SATA SSD will suffer a lot when fuller.
 
Example with 500GB MX500: 512GiB of raw flash, 476.84GiB of user space. 1.20 = 512/x, x = 426.67GiB. 476.84 - 426.67 = 50.17. 50.17/476.84 = leave ~10.52% of the user space free. DRAM-less drives need more OP but usually get more static OP which is better than dynamic, e.g. the BX500 comes in at 480GB not 500GB. If however it came in at 500GB (which it does at larger capacities with QLC) you'd shift to 15% user space free, closer to 25% of raw flash: (476.84)(.85) = 405.31GiB, 512/405.31 = 1.26.

Check the link in my signature for more details.
 
OP space is reserved space outside OS/LBA/user space, that is not user-accessible. Most modern controllers can use any free space as "dynamic over-provisioning" thanks to aggressive TRIM/GC, although there are a lot of factors to consider/balance in these algorithms. In any case, it's not precisely correct to go by the raw amount of flash in a drive because you have spare area for ECC/RAID, buffers for dies/planes, bad blocks from manufacturing, spare blocks, etc. There's also SLC caching which is the base flash in single-bit mode taking up several times the capacity, and some of this will be in OP space. Ultimately there is a balance between OP and ECC with regards to write amplification (vs. TBW) but more OP definitely reduces WA and wear. This requires some explanation (read my link) but the flash is addressed logically or virtually and not physically so this OP space is shifting, it's guaranteed to be empty and thus available for writes which inherently reduces WA. To understand that you have to see how flash writes and erases (e.g. page vs. block, folding, GC) - for example combining multiple partial blocks into one replacement block. There's also a need to refresh data which includes various algorithms (I cover some in the link). So there's no real easy "tl;dr" but leaving free space on the drive absolutely reduces write amplification, and that's without even getting into the discussion of DRAM.
 
Also, for consumer drives, OP space is likely sufficient from a performance and endurance standpoint, however if you want the best user experience you want to leave some space free for best operation of the drive - OP space alone is not sufficient. (generally, 20% total OP of raw flash is suggested for consumer)