Vasllo

I see. It's not for professional use, I'm not even using a calibrator (considered buying one, but not worth it), I'm just calibrating bit by bit by eye. Although it's noticeable when side-by-side with another unit more dialed in, this 1% won't bother me that much. I'll look for other pieces of software whenever I get the time, thanks any ways. Just wanted to extract the most out of these whitelabel monitors, but I can't complain about them for just ~US$ 450 (converted) for both. Yeah, that's what I was hoping to find, the registry or file to which this is written and hope the scale it uses allow for in-between values. Professional color calibration wouldn't be viable or worth it for me, it's not for professional use and would cost half of what I paid for both monitors.

Searching for color or enhancement on that doc didn't get any relevant results, have you ever used it for that? It seems to be more inclined to performance and hardware than driver adjustments.

I'm trying to dial-in my two HDR monitors and OSD doesn't allow or apply color profiles in HDR mode, so it's all done through Nvidia Control Panel, the issue is, it seems to adjust color brightness every 2.5% (truncated to the lower integer), so I'm trying to dial-in the green brightness, but at 30% it's too low, at 32% it's too high, and I can't set it to 31%. Is there a way to do it through Nvidia Inspector or some config file?

I guess I did something wrong when I formatted and reinstalled it's OS, because it always shows a bootloader while powering on and automatically selects the MacOS partition (only one), but possibly because of this screen, I simply can't enter recovery mode with the Command + R shortcut. I also used Open Core Patcher to install Sonoma on it. All I wanted to do was to disable SIP to undervolt and power limit the CPU and GPU. Also, when it suggested me to force-shutoff and turn back on to reset password when I stayed too long on the login screen, once it entered recovery mode through this method, I got a "blocked/prohibited" symbol and a link to an Apple page for startup. Is it possible that I don't have a recovery environment? Also, when it automatically switched to recovery via internet, it didn't find any boot devices to select and reset the password. I'm hoping I don't need to reinstall the OS, because I'm not too savvy with Macs and I would hate the trouble, how can I fix this? Edit: I tried turning it on with Option pressed and it gave me two options, EFI boot, which takes me to the screen mentioned above and MacOS, which takes me to the "blocked/prohibited" screen and just gives me a link to: https://support.apple.com/mac/startup Edit 2: Found out the default method doesn't work if you have Open Core Legacy Patcher, you have to power on holding Option, select EFI boot (if you don't already get to the page to select OS) and press space to show the recovery mode option.

I'm building a PC that doesn't need a graphics card, but will use two monitors, and I'm not sure if this works because I never did it without a dGPU. It's a R5 8600G + Asus Prime A620M-E which has DP + HDMI + VGA. The AMD website states that it supports up to 4 monitors and the motherboard's website also states multi-monitor support depending on the CPU, but I found online someone showing the CPU lanes distribution schematics that mentions it outputs to either DP or HDMI, so I assumed it wouldn't work with both connections. I can't find the link to that now, but would it work?

So, I bought a Hiksemi FUTURE 1TB SSD to use alongside my XPG S70B 2TB and replace my SN550 500GB, but it's running only at PCIe 3.0 x2, while the SN550 runs at 3.0 x4 in the same slot, and the Hiksemi runs at 3.0 x4 in another PC. My motherboard is a B460M, which limits them to PCI-e 3.0, but it's alright for now and not the issue. I also tested in a H610 with an i3 13100F, which ran it at 3.0 x4. My B460M has the latest UEFI. Both S70B and SN550 are NVMe 1.4, while the Hiksemi is NVMe 2.0, that's the only difference I spotted. I have no idea why this is happening, I don't see anything I could do in UEFI to change this, it works as expected in another PC, my motherboard works as expected with another SSD, but they won't go together. Any ideas?

Update in case anyone is interested in this combo and finds this thread in the future: The difference between onboard audio (Asus B460M-Plus) and the Topping DX1 is absurd, my onboard literally cuts a frequency range and music lacks sub-bass completely, doesn't matter what I do to EQ. It's really worth it. And it does have enough power to overpower the headphone.

Of course, I avoid listening to anything too loud, I think I was just being overprotective with my headphones. But thanks for the advice anyways, guys. I try to keep my hearing the best I can, I even heard a friend of mine's CRT high-frequency buzz he couldn't. Listening to loud music fatigues my hearing, I don't often hype enough to turn really loud, and for short periods only. In the trip I just came back, I was being the old man who asks to lower the volume in my friend's car haha.

Thanks a lot, that's really in-depth. My DX1 arrived today, I've been testing it for a few minutes, and it seems to have changed bass indeed, it's great now. With some gain to bass (I'll try and make a better curve in the future), the pre-amp had to settle at -5dB for now, which made it pretty loud at the "low gain" setting, but not too different from my motherboard, I wanted a bit more. At "high gain", though, I'm scared to go over ~60% and blow my headphone, lol. So I think it's a win, I won't have to bother with onboard audio in my next upgrades, and I have better audio, although not a night and day difference. Not too bad for ~US$67.

To know if they're similar to drive, you should compare both impedance and sensitivity, no? I've already owned the headphone for ~7 years, so spending more on the headphone isn't an option. Each frequency range requires different amounts of power, which has been making me question if I'm not missing something in the ranges that use the most power. I like some more bass than it has by default, and my pre-amp gets increasingly quiet as I add gain to bass and sub.

Well, I'll stay with the 80Ohms then, they also have a peak at 10kHz and I wouldn't want it to be any higher lol. The issue with replacement parts is that I live in Brazil, so they're hard to get and pretty expensive. I've gone through a few headbands and earpads, I found a kit with both from Aliexpress for ~US$15 that is pretty good and comfortable, I'm using one right now. The issue is that mine has been used hard, almost daily for several hours a day for 7 years, so there's more damage than that, even with me being rather careful with it. For example, the cups somehow broke part of the flap that holds the earpads (I grinded them to avoid sharp angles), the clips that hold the headband broke as usual (I had a couple pairs 3D printed, one already broke, the screw wasn't deep enough) and the cable from the cups is a little damaged from friction with the headband clips, so I used some electrical tape to protect it.

Yeah, I just saw it'll go on sale for ~US$73, I'll get it. I considered the DX3+ Pro, but it's too much, and over twice the price on sale. Hypothetically, do you think the DX1 could also drive the 250Ohm version just fine? If my 770's ever go down in flames (it has some damages, 5 years of constant usage), I would probably replace for another pair, so I would like to know if I should just go for the 80Ohms again, or if it would be any beneficial/viable to go for the 250Ohm ones. Also, this is just for my PC, I use TWS for my mobile devices.

That's what I was expecting to have, better bass and maybe better detailing in complex audios, specially when using equalizer APO to add some gain to the (sub-)bass. I don't add as much as I would like now because my pre-amp just can't handle it. I first looked at the Topping DX3+ Pro as suggested by a YouTuber and audio company owner I follow, but I looked at the DX1, and it seems like more than enough. I think ~US$100 is the limit of what makes sense for my setup. Also, I live in Brazil, so the stuff from Dan Clark is absolutely not viable for me, but I appreciate the tip anyways. I only have this DT770 Pro because an uncle of mine brought it from UK for me. Also, any opinions about the AKLiam PD4 and Truthear Shio that were suggested? They're a bit cheaper than the DX1.

Sorry, forgot to mention, it's the 80Ohm version. It definitely doesn't get painfully loud. I've had it for ~5 years, but still not planning to upgrade yet. I feel like I'm missing something, specially with bass and sub-bass, but that's one of the reasons I haven't bought anything yet, I'm not sure if it'll be any better. My Asus P8P67 had great volume with it, this B460M Plus, not so much, but it's perfectly usable.

The codec/DAC might be pretty good, but the (pre-)amp is weak. I went from an Asus P8P67 to a Huananzhi X99-TF and now this B460M Plus, every single change had a weaker amp than the previous, and I'm a bit sick of having to care about onboard audio in my upgrades, it limits my options. I usually focus on value, but I feel like this might be worth it and save me some money with motherboards in the future. The DT770 doesn't have a lot of bass out of the box, and giving it a bit more punch makes my pre-amp clip until I lower it to about -5dB, which makes volume mediocre to good, depending on the situation. But even though volume is alright most of the time, I feel like it just can't power my headphone correctly when there's serious bass and sub-bass. I searched a bit and it looks like my headphone draws more than this onboard audio can supply in these peaks, which kills the audio a bit. I also will try out TIDAL at some point, because I hear some "artifacts" sometimes with Spotify at very high quality (320kbps). Buying a (DAC)/Amp has been in the back of my mind for a while, but price and uncertainty of the results has been making me hesitate to pull the trigger. Do you think it's worth buying just an amp and using the onboard DAC? I would kinda be stuck to good onboard audio-only motherboards, even though it's a part I don't usually like to skimp on. Also, the Amp I saw from Topping had L and R inputs, while my motherboard doesn't have those. My first consideration was the Topping DX3+ Plus, but I thought it was too much for my headphone and didn't justify being 2x the price of the DX1 for me.

I checked some specs and it all seems good, but I'm not completely sure if it's a good combo, because I don't understand a whole lot about audio. I feel like my B460M Plus leaves a lot on the table for my headphone, so I would like to get a better DAC and Amp (or maybe just Amp?) that wouldn't completely break the bank. Remember I live in Brazil, so the best bet is something from Aliexpress, if you're gonna suggest an alternative.

So, my motherboard only allows for 2666MT/s, so I tweak the timings. My current kit is 3200MT/s CL16 and I'm running at 2666MT/s CL13, with tweaked secondary timings as well. In this scenario, does it make a difference between the two specs in the title? Like one would be able to achieve CL12 and the other CL13 in my settings, or would it all be the same, since they both have the same real-time latency?

Actually, I just thought about a bit more, and googled this SPD page of CPU-Z and none of the images I saw had the Command Rate value, which leads me to think it's actually a timming controled only by the IMC, and the memory doesn't care about it, as it's not in the profile table. Looked for some more definitions of CR, and it does seem to align with this. I'll try to reset back the IMC voltage and see if it holds 2T, at least, if not, I'll probably try and get the E5 2666 V3 in a bit and hope it makes a difference, lol.

Well, seems like the issue might be exactly the memory's profile. I tried retraining and removing some DIMMs, but it went back to 3T.

I built an E5 2640 V3 with 3x8GB Netac DDR4 1600MHz (actual clock) in triple-channel on a Huananzhi X99-TF (best chinese X99 v3 option), and I often see people running this CPU with memory at CR 1T, but my CR is at 3T and there's no way to change it other than, maybe, a BIOS mod, which would brick it if a lower CR isn't stable. Now, is this because of a terrible IMC, or bad memory? Just in case, I'll post the CPU-Z of the CPU and memory. I noticed this when watching a review of the E5 2666 V3, because my memory bandwidth is WAY lower than what it should be, and the worst offender in the memory timings is the Command Rate. I'm considering going for an E5 2666 V3 for the couple more cores (since they aren't particularly fast ones), 100MHz higher clock and higher memory clock (933MHz vs 1066.5MHz, DDR3 speeds on DDR4, lol), and possibly solving the bad IMC issue, if it actually is the IMC's fault. Also, I didn't check what it was before modding the BIOS to unlock single thread clock boost for all cores, but I did undervolt both the CPU and IMC with -50mV. I just realised this might've caused this as I posted this, so I'll try and flash the BIOS without IMC undervolt in a couple days, because I can't do it rn.

Update: I tried to evaluate the pressure the best I could to determine if it would be dangerous, pressing the spring, checking other people's stories on mounting pressure, etc. Decided to go for it, and it's working fine, max temp was, impressively, 62°C on the package and under 60°C in the cores under Prime95 maximum power torture test. Just wished there was a way to remove the power limit, but oh well, it's doing great. Thanks for the advices, guys.

I'll see if I can find any other screw or rubber washers, but I don't think I'll have 4 of them. Yeah, that's what I was thinking, it probably can take the pressure, but I'm afraid to bend the socket pins or something, because I don't know how much pressure it is applying nor how far the mobo can take it. I usually don't take the cooler apart often, I only changed the thermal paste on my old kit once in almost 4 years. My plan was to get it to work and keep it, it would be ideal to avoid buying another cooler if I could.

So, I screwed up my parts choice and changed cooler without checking it's mounting bracket, thought any AM4 would be compatible, but it's not. I've found a way to mount it with some adaptation, but since these parts were not supposed to be used this way, the screw doesn't quite reach the socket and the spring is quite stiff, so just to get the screw to the socket, the mounting pressure is already quite high, I would say it's at least a normal mounting pressure with just 1 thread in. They do line up with the hole just fine. The motherboard is a Huananzhi X99-TF, Xeon 2640v3 CPU and Gamemmaxx 400 v2 cooler. Yes, the cooler isn't compatible, but some AM4 brackets are compatible with LGA2011-3, the issue is that this one isn't. Question is: Would it be fine with the extra pressure, or could it kill something? Added a couple pics showing my adaptation on the mounting system. I will try to find longer screws, but these would be the best ones to the job I have rn.

Well, considering I often see drives running with several times the usage on mine, I would, but I guess I'm not lucky with HDs. Well, I don't have many important files there, I'll see what I can do and keep an eye on it, and on a new drive to buy...

I have a Seagate Barracuda 2TB (ST2000DM006-2DM164) that I bought open box (brand new, zero use) about 3 years ago, it has been turned on 1987 times and has 15,448 hours of usage. Yesterday, while downloading a game, I received an error message from Argus Monitor that my HD had 8 pending sectors, which are also uncorrectable. No biggie, I thought, until I tried to download the remaining files that got corrupted only to receive the same message, now at 16 sectors. I gave up and deleted the game. Today, I ran chkdsk /r on the drive, and after about 3~4h running, I receive the same goddamn message again, now to find that the chkdsk did not reallocate any sectors, and it's now at 24 sectors. The drive has not fallen down or anything, and it has been about a month since I took the PC apart to clean it, and now out of the blue, my HD keeps increasing the bad sectors count nonstop, and failing to fix them. Maybe the reading head is bent or something and is screwing the plate every time it tries to read that area? What can this be, and what could be done? My HD is not old enough to be having these kinds of issues. It would be the second early death of an HD out of the four I've used, jeez...