SageOfSpice

By whom? We have no idea the scale or actual effect of these brownouts. Yes, theoretically if we're talking a few microseconds of power loss, some PSUs will be able to handle that. However, without actually measuring what is occurring during these brownouts, it's pretty hard to recommend anything but a UPS, or trading in your desktop for a laptop. Changing PSUs is only going to buy you a few miliseconds either way, and if this is a consistent issue in your building to the point where the lights flicker regularly, then it's only a matter of time until it then crosses that threshold, and you're no further along. A UPS would provide you protection for MINUTES. Tens of thousands of times longer than any PSU swap. You don't need to get a particularly built up unit for this, as you aren't planning on running it exclusively off the battery. Just something that'll give you even 10 minutes would prevent this.

My headphones have some, but they're kind of cheap headphones. My assumption would be that they'd use that sort of system in order to balance the loading of the weight of the headset across the head to prevent hotspots. I don't think mine do anything, though. The bars above it just rest on top of the band anyways.

I blame global warming. CPU-Z said my cpu was 36297c the other day. So, sorry if we all explode in a firey death as my processor terraforms the earth into a star.

I mean, I think that's a bit of an understatement. I just paid about that for an SSD, and this dude just got a mouse, keyboard, case, an i5, z97 motherboard, 4 sticks of ram, a 970, AND an HDD. The i5 alone would go for $150, at least, nevermind the rest of it.

You should hear a click when it seats correctly, as the retention clip snaps into place. If you hear a crack, then you've done something wrong and made the graphics card angry.

You've got one stick of ram. What have you messed with so far? Anyways, if your goal is messing with audio, then you'd best familiarize yourself with DPC Latency. Ensuring that your system and drivers are operating smoothly will be more significant to you than increasing your numbers, though, a smooth system will perform better as well.

Hello all. So I've acquired this laptop from a family member that wasn't quite sure what to do with it. It's got some physical issues, so it's not really fit for sale, but otherwise functions perfectly. I've recently swapped out it's failing HDD for a 240Gb SSD, and it's running pretty well. The goal for this laptop was to have a little throw-away portable light gaming rig. Something I can take with me when traveling, and not really have to worry about. For those that don't want to look up the specs, the important bits are: -AMD Phenom II N970 Clocked at 2.2Ghz -6Gb Memory (Different brands, and capacities, yet running in dual channel amazingly enough) -HD 4250M, and HD 6550M dual graphics. The question today is whether or not you guys think it'd be worth it to upgrade the ram from it's 2+4 to a 4+4 config. Unfortunately, the CPU can't be overclocked as far as I can tell, so it's stuck at it's base 2.2Ghz. The GPU didn't seem to mind a near 30% overclock, and the thermals actually seem adequate to support it. The processor and GPU are a pretty good match, but I am concerned that with the GPU sharing memory, I'm going to be running into ram problems. I don't believe that buying a single stick is going to be a reliable option, as the manufacturer of the ram isn't so common, so I'm stuck getting a 2x4 kit. The cheapest I've been able to find them in Canadian pesos is about $40. There is a Hynix kit, and a Samsung kit. At the current used ram prices, I'd probably get about $20 for the ram if I sold it, though I doubt the 2Gb stick would sell given how common they are. So $15 If I toss the 2Gb stick in the parts bin, or donate it to somebody. So I ask you, what would you do?

It's got mixed reception because it's mostly a benign feature that saves a decent amount of power in most cases, sort of like the core parking tweak. It's fine to leave something like that enabled for normal tasks, and it does well enough. The problem I find is that when I get into situations where games won't load the core optimally enough to keep the core speed up, so you end up with cores dropping down to half their speed right before they're about to be loaded again which I find causes a bit of micro-stutter. The usage of the feature just really depends on what you're trying to get from your computer. If you're more concerned about performance than power usage, then it's perfectly fine to play around with, as a lot of times it can help with system stability in overclocking since you don't have to worry about LLC surging enough power to the processor when it does kick back up.

How long have you had the card? You could try to reflash it, but honestly if it's brand new, just RMA the thing instead of potentially digging yourself in a hole.

Ah. Well, then you could play around with Cool'n'Quiet if you haven't already disabled that. Same thing, opposite direction.

Honestly, not something I've ever had issues with. I've built and rebuilt my computer so many times just on the sheet on my bed, and there's been zero issues. I usually just wash my hands before hand to dissipate any static, wear latex gloves to prevent oils from getting on the components, and avoid touching anything I don't need to. If you were super worried about it, I'd use one of the solid side-panels of your case, and rest your components on the inside of it. Just touch the panel first any time you go to grab something, and it'll be fine.

Yeah, disabling core parking can help. I find that it mostly fixes a small latency issue, where you'll get a bit of microstutter with a consistent FPS. It increases power consumption globally all the time, though. Do the Ryzens have turbo or boost their clock at all? I'm a bit out of touch with all the newest gear, but I've found in a lot of cases that games really dislike the clock hopping around so much. I use a program for this: ThrottleStop. Simple little program, but let's you set up different profiles, and doesn't require any restarts. Helps a lot on this i7-7700, as it tends to stutter in games it has no business stuttering in otherwise. For now, I'd try that.

Either or would work, honestly. If your router has removable antenna, I'd probably do that one first, as it's going to probably help the most for full house coverage for all devices. Have you done a scan to check for other local signals that may be conflicting on similar channels? A lower channel can help range, but they're usually the default for that reason. Automatic does work for some routers, but I've found it can result in intermittent disconnection and a weak connection on others.

Which band are you attempting to connect on, the 2.4Ghz, or the 5Ghz? Higher frequencies will have less penetration through solid objects. With that said, if the distance is really so short as 10ft, I would be surprised that it'd be having issues. Before buying a relay, I'd see if you can't upgrade those stock antenna. You can get some decent antenna for pretty cheap.

Uh... So was I the only one that read that they're only adding the rods once they've got it to the place? And that they're going to be mooring it on land?