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About JokerProduction

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  1. Couple new pets to live with me for the next 20 years
  2. The person I bought the tank from ended up calling me back and asked if I wanted to take some of the fish that where in the tank previously. They where getting picked on too much by his other fish so I ended up rescuing them. Ended up with a gold nugget pleco, 2 border loaches, 2 gouramis, and an albino bristlenose pleco. There was a 3rd much smaller loach that we couldn't catch so we gave up on him. As for other fish I'm trying to track down some more loaches to try and get a bigger group of them. Next fish will be a pictus catfish and then a probably a couple of senegal birchir (dinosaur eel). Probably wont stock any more that that in this tank.
  3. Filled up my 90g tank time to move onto to the new 150g.
  4. Considering I had the suspension before I had the car I can finally say I got it installed. Hoping it will settle another little bit but I'm happy with it. Koni Yellows, Eibach Sportlines, GT500 strut mounts, GT500 allum Rear control arms, Aluminum Adjustable Pan Hard Bar /cry
  5. Those are crazy the prices you americans are paying for JDM cars. I imported a bunch 6-10 years ago when all the cars where hitting the canadian 15 year old import rule. My First JDM i picked up was a ST185 A-spec and paid 7500cad. Then I bought two ST205s. A bone stock white 95 with 70k KM and my modified 94 black WRC with 61k(which i have now wracked up to 141k). Stock one was 6800 and the black was 7500. Picked up a bone stock 74k 92 mr2 t-top for 3400. Got another MR2 that only had 25k on it for 5500. 95 Evo III (rip) was 5800. 95 STI RA for 6300. Although I did import these all myself so that cuts down any middle man and mark up. Some I got cheaper because I was shipping multiples at a time which made shipping cheaper than using a RORO shipping method for a single car. I guess most of the LOW km ones would of gone 10 years ago to us because 95k MILES is a shit ton for JDM vehicles. That one you linked probably would of went for 7-9kcad here max at the time. I love me the WRC riser blocks the car looks so odd without them.
  6. Finally got around to re-fiberglassing the lip I shattered into at least 4 separate pieces being a snowplow through the winter. Just did the final coat of primer and planning on painting it tomorrow.
  7. Busy Day. I wrapped the spoiler riser blocks and mirrors in carbon vinyl. Re-painted the wing and still managed to get done claying and waxing most of the car. Also installed some LED shop lights in the garage to replace the slowly dieing fluorescent that where in there.
  8. Did you find out if it will affect your rates? Insurance varies greatly by area but where I live the wildlife would be a no fault incident but the truck dumping sand on you would be an at fault claim if you didn't go after his company/insurance. (which you should of done since he had an unsecured load and wasn't a peril of the road). An at fault claim here jacks your rates up for the next 5 years and guaranteed they would make there 787 back over that time. Better question is why do you have full coverage on a 3000$ car? Here its cost prohibited and really anything under 12-15k only gets basic liability coverage.
  9. Ya it's pretty well setup but a decent price. Not perfect but will easily be loud enough to cause hearing damage. Biggest issue is that your a bit short on airspace. Subs say they need 1ft, box is only .96 and you have to deduct the displacement of the subs since you cant mount them inverted. Not a huge deal with a sealed box. Amps put out 1200w@2ohms, subs need 1000w. I think there is a typo on the page as one spot says 4ohm DvC but the other spots say 2ohm dvc for the subs. You Absolutely need the 2ohm or your gonna be seriously short on power. That 1/0 cable probably won't fit in the amps terminal so I would order a reducing terminal for it. I assume you have an aftermarket deck or are using a loc since that amp doesn't accept high level inputs.
  10. Lol. Thought I shared this video on here but I guess not. Been so long since I drove this car I forgot how obnoxious it was. and anyone good with photoshop wanna chop these wheels gold and/or bronze since I'm not digging the blue as much as I thought I would.
  11. Its sooo common with Automotive LED's that they just spew off giant numbers. They just look at the max wattage of the chip from the spec sheet and completely disregard what the driver is actually sending to them. I bought some 224W lightbars for my truck but when actually measured they pulled 72W regardless of what voltage I threw at them because they have CC drivers. That being said I bought some LED bulbs for the GT4 that showed up today. Had one burnt out foglight and both parking lights were done. Fog lights are kinda neat they are both white and amber and switch everytime you cycle power to them. It works out good since its an older car and gives you full manual control of lighting. Not any brighter than stock. Parking lights are RGB and have tons of modes. Needed to replace them because there the only lights on the front that flash when you lock/unlock otherwise there pretty pointless. Still rocking the 55w HID till they need replacing. https://i.imgur.com/KcApwqN.mp4
  12. I don't know about the GM world but on my manual 2012 mustang it had skip shift "feature". Pretty much never enabled with my driving style. The only time it engaged was shifting out of 1st at light throttle and under 3k rpms. A message would pop up on the dash and you would be physically locked out of going into anything but 4th gear. It never effected me enough to disable it but for the mustangs all it took was pulling the shifter console up and unplugging harness to the little actuator. Lots on the forums did this and it didn't throw any codes or have any negative effects.