mhamrin

Yes, I think they are okay if you want to do a "quicky" until you can get a manual overclock dialed in, but I would not use it for too long at all.

Cool....Thanks!
 
I'm going to need some stress test plus other software....correct?

Yes Sir.
 
I'd look at grabbing OCCT, Asus RealBench 2.43, and AIDA64 as a good start.

Congrats.  I was literally just reading on a thread on overclock.net that it was available.  Yes. Get it while you can type deal. 
 
Don't use the auto overclock.  They tend to overuse voltage and are not a great means of overclocking.  Great for someone that doesn't have a clue or any friends that are proficient at overclocking, but you don't have that problem. 

Based off of previous conversations, it sounds like you may be doing more important stuff with your rig than I do with mine.  You may want to look into a UPS.  Surge protection is built in and they help maintain cleaner power to your system.  Then there's the whole thing about your computer still running for a few minutes after the power goes out. 

Absolutely best explanation! 
 
Thanks!

For use with x99, you're going to want to get a 4 x 8 or 8 x 8 set certified for quad channel.  
 
The binning process for dual and quad differ.  For example, the IMC on a 6700k (dual channel) is a more forgiving than the IMC on a Haswell-E or Broadwell-E chip, so you can expect that the quality of the dual channel 4 x 8 set to be lower.  The set binned for quad channel is generally of higher grade, which allows it to operate at the spec'd speed, timings, and voltage when combined with a quad channel CPU such as a Haswell-E or Broadwell-E chip.
 
This is not to necessarily say that the IMCs on Haswell-E or Broadwell-E CPUs are inferior to Skylake CPUs, but that handling quad channel especially at higher frequencies is a tough task.  Quad channel provides a great deal more bandwidth than dual channel so that is to be expected.  Buy purchasing a quality binned quad channel set, you're allowing you CPU's IMC and the memory a better chance of performing at or above their advertised speed, timings and voltage.
 
Of course, you can overcome the issues related to lower quality sets through manual adjustment of speed, timings and voltage, but I'm not sure you want to jump into that right off the bat.
 
Additionally, knowing that you have an Asus Deluxe II, another thing to look forward to with regards to performance is the motherboard's topology.  On boards like the x99 Deluxe, RVE, and the like, increasing DIMM slot population from 4 to 8 also effects memory bandwidth in a positive way.

I would have expected a difference between the two runs do the the 700 MHz cache difference.

Haswell-E is super unlikely to run 3400 (and you'd need to use a weird blck). 3200c14 better call.

The 14s are supposed to be in next week. I don't want to settle. If for some reason they're not in I may do the 15s. I just want the "cream" of the lot.
 
Thanks!

CL15 will do the trick, still better than corsair.

Good call  

I've got a compressor. I've been using it for years. never any moisture probs. I just wait a while...bout an hour after blowing. 
 
I'm careful and don't hold nozzle too close to circuitry. Works amazingly! 
 
 

if youre willing to invest in it, a datavac is basically an air compressor and is more powerful than canned air
https://www.amazon.com/Metro-Vacuum-ED500P-500-Watt-Electric/dp/B001U899HQ
otherwise, an electric leafblower could work, if you are really careful (standing a few feet away, keeping fans from spinning, running the lowest speed, and never focusing the air on one spot)

Didn't know that about asus support. 
 
Yeah the deluxe is expensive! I'm going with the plain x99-a II. It's a newly released mobo. It's got rgb on it.
 
Take care~

You are putting too much effort to pay a premium for something that won't be a problem.
 
This guy (using a 5820K) plopped down 128GB of GSkill Ripsaw V @ 3000MHz.  He overclocked the RAM up to 3200MHz and even tightened the timings to 14CAS.  Stop throwing money at a fear to make you feel safe.
 
http://www.techpowerup.com/forums/threads/128gb-ram-on-x99-platform-with-5820k-no-problem.222305/
 
Worst case scenario:  you grab the cheaper Ripsaw V 3000MHz-3200MHz kit and it initializes at 2133MHz.  You set X.M.P. and it fails.  You go back in and manually set the clock/timings/voltage until it stabilizes.
 
@mhamrin
 
I understand your desire to buy the premium stuff:  950 Pro; TridentZ with the tightest available timings; 5960X...
 
... but please... for the sake of all PC builders... when you are buying a menagerie of premium PC components...
 
...color coordinate them!
 
You have a black and white motherboard with blue and grey accenting.  Don't pay 30% more for a set of RAM sticks with red accents, unless you are willing to paint them.  Go plain black if you need to.

Yes
 
If you want decent board with a good vrm implementation,
for a good price then yes.
All Asus X99 boards are decent for that matter.
It mainly comes down to features vs pricing.
In your case you dont want too pay too much extra for feutures you might not need.
And there for the Asus X99-A II would be a perfect balances between price, quality and feutures.

Yeah, when i post my completed build don't want a rainbow assortment of colors. Quality and correct balance among components  is my 1st priority...but I really do want it to look good too.  

Completely overkill and nowhere near $3000.  SLI ready.  Silver, black and white theme with blue accenting.  The case already comes with three 140mm fans, more than enough to get started:
 
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
CPU: Intel Core i7-5820K 3.3GHz 6-Core Processor  ($369.99 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Phanteks PH-TC14PE_BL 78.1 CFM CPU Cooler  ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus X99-A II ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard  ($225.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (4 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory  ($164.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 250GB 2.5" Solid State Drive  ($89.89 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 950 PRO 512GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive  ($317.99 @ SuperBiiz)  <<iirc this kicks the crap out of Intel's 750
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive  ($65.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB FTW Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card  ($700.00)  <<Get a good GTX 1080, not that FE crap version
Case: Phanteks Enthoo Evolv ATX ATX Mid Tower Case  ($169.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic EVO Edition 850W 80+ Bronze Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply  ($103.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  ($119.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $2388.80
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-06-21 21:36 EDT-0400

There is always a way to stop certain things like auto updates.  Blocking meta data is a bit more tedious.

You'd definitely get some great deals on black Friday but there is no way of telling what will go on sale. Here's what I did. I researched the ever-livin-daylights out of the components to know exactly what i wanted. I have  some guru's here that are my go to for info. For instance I go to sinteza for mobo info and Harrynowl is the ram guru. etc....there are many others.
 
Next I use the pc part picker sheet with the graph that show best price history (up to 2 years). Then I set price alerts for what is acceptable to me. Some things have great deals that come in cycles. You can see best price last black Friday for instance. Some things just have a downward price trend- like ram. I'd buy this last.
 
Grab stuff little by little when it hits your price target. My price targets have been hitting faster than i thought. Also, if you have a Micro Center near you check the local store for prices. These don't always show up in pcpart picker. For instance. Best price on 5820K (btw this is the cpu i want) pcpart = $369.   Micro Center (brick & morter) store is $319. On top of that, bundle it with a mobo and get another $30 off. 
 
Let me know if you want more info on my components i've chosen. Remember i'm not a guru...I'm a friend of gurus! (That'd be a damn good signature line)

I would personally want the pro version, but I don't know the customer directly.  What is the point if they don't use the features?
 
@mhamrin  I did not even realize the price is $120.  NCIX usually has the best price ($90). 

The http://www.anandtech.com and the relaxed tech sites are awesome! that's the kind of benchmarks I'm looking for. I did not see any specifics on pump noise anywhere. I'm guessing reading end user reviews is best way to get this info. 
 
There have been some reported issues with pcie slot being inaccessible with some of the air coolers. The AIO's are so much cleaner looking as well as provide easier access to components. I wish there was a clear winner with this component. Such a balancing act between noise, cooling under heavy/light loads, looks, convenience...ugg. 

Overall thickness would be the con.  Think about it:
 
25mm thickness for each set of fans, 2x25mm = 50mm
 
Then the 38mm for the rad:  Total 88mm or 8.8cm or 3.5 inches thick.
 
Noise is the reason I recommend big air coolers for casual performance seekers.  They do a great job and are quiet.  AiO liquid coolers look better, but you have the extra point of failure (pump), and two points of noise production (pump/fans).
 
@mhamrin  I guess it would be smartest to research the pump on any unit.  Fans you can change if they are too loud, but the pump is there forever.
 
This is overall noise from 1 meter away at max fan speed:
 

 
http://www.anandtech.com/show/7738/closed-loop-aio-liquid-coolers/9
 
These below are from 50cm away:
 

 
http://www.relaxedtech.com/reviews/noctua/nh-d15-versus-closed-loop-liquid-coolers/2