Legeis

I have a C6 I love it. I would say its worth it if you like to watch movies at home but not a huge deal if your are just watching normal TV. The image quality is frickiing amazing compared to a normal LED blacks are blacker whites are whiter reds are redder ect.... in a dark room the blacks are so black it basically fades into the background! Watching Aquaman or Planet Earth will blow your mind.... however the 6 O'Clock news will still be boring not much your TV can do about that. On the issue of burn in it's not so much an issue these days with things like pixel shift however if you plan on leaving CNN on all day or something you will probably end up with a red bar across the bottom of your screen at some point. Same with Fox and blue bar or any program that has a bright primary color plastered across the same spot on your screen for an extended period of time. However if you are not just leaving your TV on all day tuned to some news program and really enjoy movies I would 100% recommend it! Also content content that brings out its potential is more common these days then it was when I bought mine. It basically used to not be worth it if you weren't buying movies on 4K HDR Bluerays (UHD Disk) but now services like apple TV are offering much more 4K HDR content for streaming and are actually doing a good job with it. Netflix is also expanding their options but unless you get the premium Plan they will only let you stream in HD. But content is king in deciding if its worth it for you. For me it is because I like movies and most if not all new releases are now available in HDR, but if you just want to watch the news I'd advise against it.

Basically dose the LG magic remote work with the Intel compute stick or other small PC's? Long story short I have a C6 with the magic remote and the built in web browser in LG Web OS sucks. Apple TV doesn't have a web browser. I don't want to cast from a device. I just want a web browser on my TV I can control with my remote. The Intel compute stick seems like an affordable option. Can I use My LG Smart Remote to control it?

I maintain that it's still annoying from the consumers point of view. You download a game, you turn on automatic updates, you have plenty of capacity, the game has plenty of time to download updates, then you launch the game and oh no you gotta wait to play because updates are needed. All because they decided to use their own launcher. even if the absolute newest patches needed to go through their launcher because they have to get approval from valve to push updates through steam, they could still push most of the updates through steam in the background and then download whatever is missing when you launch the game... then maybe it be like 0.5 GB when I launch instead of 10 GB

Like this is a thing that really annoys me where games like War Thunder and Warframe and others choose to use their own launcher to download updates even when you get the game through steam. So instead of staying up to date by pushing updates through steam they wait for you to launch the game then are like hey you have half an hour of updates waiting even though you have steam auto updates turned on! It's like they intentionally want to mess with you! Is there an actual reason they do this or are they just being stubborn and annoying!

Oh is that all? I mean I wasn't super worried about the AIO I was more worried about my CPU. Replacing an AIO isn't exactly a major issue. What I was more worried about was shorting the life of my CPU. I want to hold off on upgrading my CPU + MOBO until PCIe 4.0 and DDR5 are common on the market and get all the bugs worked out. Because I feel that's something I'm gonna want to upgrade too anyways at some point and don't wanna upgrade to soon only to regret not waiting. I'ts like when I built this PC I was ordering my parts 1 day before Nvidia announced the 10 series cards I was gonna get a 980 but luckily my buddy called me up that day and told me to stop because Nvidia had a "big announcement tomorrow" so I was able to get a 1080 instead.

Lol I used to have a 750D yeah thats a big case even as far as full towers go. Most cases will be significantly tighter than that.

So yesterday when I went to bed I just put my computer to sleep instead of shutting it down. Today it woke its self up and the fans were a little louder than normal. I wasn't right by it so I didn't realize anything was wrong and ignored it for a couple hours. I finally sat down in front of my computer and went to play some bannerlord cause I was board. That's when I notices my fans were actually running at full speed and It said my CPU was at 100% usage (at idle). After some looking at task manager I decided to try restarting the computer (still thinking huh this is weird). On start up computer starts power cycling (thinking oh this is bad). I turn it off and unplug the power supply from the wall to do a more in-depth diagnosis. Make sure everything is seated properly (it was). check to see if any thing seems off noticed the waterblock/pump on my AIO feels a little... warm. Continue around to the other side of my case to check wires and connections. Problem quickly found. The power for the pump on my AIO had come unplugged. Fixed the issue and now the computer is working again. What are the odds this caused any real damage to my CPU? Quick background and notes: Originally built the computer in 2016, have done some upgrades over the years. Still the original CPU (6700k), AIO is an H110i, I'm guessing the connection probably got knocked loose about a month ago when I had the room painted and had to move a bunch of stuff out then back in, I doubt the connection came completely disconnected until last nigh or this morning as I was using the computer yesterday with no issues.

UPDATE: It Sort of worked.... I used a tool called AOMEI So start menu shortcuts all broke. Steam realized it was a different drive but after I updated the "Steam Library Folders" it worked. Epic Store did not realize it was a different drive Blizzard seems to work maybe I haven't logged in in so long it needs to update Origin has been so long since I logged in I don't know my password (Ill update this later) but it dose start to the launcher loginscreen just fine.... Programs like pain.net that are installed on D drive seem to be fine as far as i can tell so far. Windows default app install location seemed to revert to C but I changed it back to D.... So I don't know not exactly what I wanted the computer dose seem to realize its a different drive, but I haven't had a ton of problems result from it.... Oh and it caused a weird partitioning issue where I ended up with about 1.5TB un-allocated and cant expand the volume to use it.

The Samsung data migration tool can apparently only clone the system drive. "The Source Disk (HDD or SSD) must contain the operating system installation" (Source: https://s3.ap-northeast-2.amazonaws.com/global.semi.static/Samsung_SSD_Data_Migration_User_Manual_ENG_v.3.1.pdf ) This is what I was worried about. I have a hardware drive cloning kit but I believe it has the same limitation... As stated the the drive I'm replacing isn't the system drive...

I still say a small storage server over a simple NAS drive will server your purposes better. Just make sure whatever software you run on it has the ability to backup to your cloud service of choice.

well good thing onedrive is made by microsoft then...

I think you are misunderstanding the OP. It sounds like they are using a shared drive at the office that they are trying to backup to the cloud. Also he is not using a free cloud backup solution from what he said it sounds like he is using either OneDrive for business or OneDrive enterprise which is very much a professional solution. (since personal onedrive subscriptions are not very expensive and are typically only 1TB and he states they are paying a lot and its more than 1TB he probably has a business or enterprise plan.)The company I used to work for used one drive enterprise and it was a 30 billion dollar business with around 125,000 employees so yeah I would say that qualifies as a professional solution for a business, if its good enough for them its probably good enough for most.

Forgive me for asking a stupid question but after years of working in the customer service field I find often its the stupid question and stupid answers people don't even consider. Are you clicking the safely remove hardware button and ejecting/dismounting the drive before physically unplugging the USB?

I thought WD had a tool for backing up mycloud devices directly to 3rd party cloud services like onedrive or google drive. But since this is a shared company solution and not a home use solution I would recommend putting together a small storage server running something like FreeNAS or whatever works for your particular needs. I may cost more than a mycloud drive but not a lot more and will provide you a lot more flexibility in the long term because you will eventually run out of space and when you do you can simply expand it by adding more drives.

So this is less of a I don't know and more of a I'm fairly certain I do know but have never done this specific scenario and want to be sure before I do anything. So I currently have my games (and some other programs) installed on a 1TB 850 EVO and I am running out of space, I just bought a 4TB 860 EVO to replace it with. In the past whenever I have upgraded my PC's hardware I usually do a fresh windows install and backup everything, reinstall all my drivers to make sure its all up to date and yada yada yada. However I'm at a point where I've been running this current configuration for a while and over the past 2-3 years (I think) I have changed settings and default install locations, and I believe have also done some windows registry edits I don't honestly remember all the stuff I've done over the years and I have my PC set up just the way I like it and don't really want to mess with all the settings until I'm ready to do a major hardware upgrade. (oh also I'm currently running a 3 drive set up C=OS and some programs, D=most games and programs, E=mostly pictures and other files. D is the one I'm replacing) So what I want to do is move everything from drive D to the new drive and then replace drive D with the new drive and have the dive letter stay D and have windows for the purposes of settings and windows registry and such just simply treat it as if it was the same drive and have everything work and have life be easy. Now I suspect If I clone the drive and then remove the old drive and plug the new cloned drive into same sata connector as the old drive it might work. But i have never tired to clone a drive to a drive of a different volume before and I have never tried to clone a drive that wasn't the system drive before.... so I am... not 100% on this. any advice? or better yet has anyone tried this before, or know if it will work or not?

Here this image sort of shows why even though there are other ways to do this it would be cleaner and easier if something like this existed, and why im looking for it.

Like what? Link? as for what I'm doing with it....well that's a bit of a bit long to explain, there are other ways to do what I want but if i could find a product like this it would make life a lot simpler and severely reduce the amount of cords I needed.

is there a small audio mixer that can take 2 inputs (one 3.5mm + one 3.5mm or SPDIF optical) and has at least one (preferably two) 3.5mm outputs for the mixed sound, but also has a 3.5mm output as a direct passthrough for at least 1 of the original sources? If anyone has ever seen anything like this or has used anything like this it would be helpful. Thanks! ?

Honestly I use Bose QC35 with my pc for this very reason. I have also thought about getting a pair of Bowers and Wilkins P9s for my pc but I can't justify the cost....but the P9s and P7s are maybe the only headsets ive ever tried that are comfier than my bose

So I have thought about this... and its a possibility but I was just trying to eliminate as many pieces as possible to make the setup as clean as possible while still achieving what I want functionally. To be honest my 100% ideal solution would take 2 sources in and 2 outputs with 1 output outputting both sources mixed and the second output only putting out 1 of the sources. + the bluetooth functionality i described b4. but I figured that may be a little too specific to really expect to find. Essentially I have a computer and a microphone. Also I have bookshelf style speakers and noise canceling headphones. the headphones can connect with either a 3.5mm or bluetooth the speakers only use wired. the computer can output 3.5mm or SPDIF optical and the mic has 2 outputs 1 usb to attach to the computer for recording sound and 1 3.5mm output for low latency monitoring so you can hear yourself as you talk without it sounding like an echo. So what I'm trying to archive is this. I want to hear both the computer sound and the live feed from the mic through the headphones, but only hear the computer sound out of the bookshelf speakers to prevent feedback if i have the volume turned up. and preferably since my headphones have bluetooth id like to minimize the # of wires.

Hi thanks in advance for your time. I am looking to get a device that I can connect at least 2 audio sources to (at least 1 3.5mm and the 2nd either 3.5mm or SPDIF optical) and out put at least 1 3.5mm (preferably 2) and also connect to a pair of bluetooth headphones. Any suggestions?

Corsair Void Wireless (Value Option) https://www.bestbuy.com/site/corsair-void-pro-rgb-se-wireless-dolby-7-1-channel-surround-sound-gaming-headset-for-pc-yellow/6006502.p?skuId=6006502 Logitech G933 Wireless (Logitech Makes Astros, and this is their equivalent? slightly better model. and cheaper because branding...) https://www.bestbuy.com/site/logitech-g933-artemis-spectrum-snow-wireless-7-1-gaming-headset-for-pc-ps4-xbox-one-white/5592427.p?skuId=5592427 Or just get a Mod MIC and a decent pair of Headphones (this option isn't Wireless) https://antlionaudio.com/products/modmic-5 Also Comparison Chart for the Wireless headsets I mentioned and the Astros, (mod mic not included on chart) https://www.bestbuy.com/site/compare?skus=5592427,5368400,6006502&productString=**&url=%2Fsite%2Fsearchpage.jsp%3Fcp%3D1%26searchType%3Dsearch%26st%3D7.1%20channel%20headset%26_dyncharset%3DUTF-8%26id%3Dpcat17071%26type%3Dpage%26sc%3DGlobal%26nrp%3D%26sp%3D%26list%3Dn%26af%3Dtrue%26iht%3Dy%26usc%3DAll%20Categories%26ks%3D960%26keys%3Dkeys

Its fine. What is "expensive" is all relative. I'm always surprised when people complain that they have to spend $100 for the case to protect their $1000 phone. Im like well if your really that accident prone and you cant afford a $100 case you probably cant afford to replace your $1000 phone! But yeah $1500 in monitors ($1800 full price, I got them on sale) on a $160 stand sitting on a few $100 bucks of ikea desk pieces. powered by a $3000ish PC (I don't know exactly it was originally about $1500, but then I got a 1080FE when it came out, and ive upgraded some drives and stuff since). $30 in tape is not a deal breaker.

Well that's a tough question. I'm always a fan of building it yourself. I think it feels.....more special. But with the market the way it is now it might be a tiny bit cheaper to buy a pre-built if your going for value. But prices have stabilized a bit so you should be able to be fairly close either way. If you do decide to build it yourself a few suggestions. #1 if your running short on cash you can always add the cablemod cables in later. no need to do it right away its an ascetic upgrade that can always be added. and #2 just skip the astros they are overrated. you can get a way better headset for the same price or one of similar quality for cheaper.

they are plump (for the most part) and there isn't much of a gap the problem is my goal is 0 gap...... I'm picky like that.... so Gaffers tape huh. Doesn't leave residue behind even if left on for long periods of time, including temperature fluctuations hot summers cold winters ect...?