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FliP0x

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    Ryzen 7 5900X
  • Motherboard
    B550 AORUS PRO V2
  • RAM
    G. SKILL Trident Z RGB Series 16GB (2 x 8GB)
  • GPU
    KFA2 GTX 1070 EX
  • Case
    NZXT S340
  • Cooling
    ARCTIC LIQUID FREEZER II 280
  • Mouse
    Logitech G604 LIGHTSPEED
  • Operating System
    Windows 11

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  1. I have a GXT 242 Lance microphone that I run through Voicemeeter Potato. In Discord 'VoiceMeeter Output' is set as the Input Device and I have Krisp Noise Suppression enabled, but I have the issue that sometimes the background noise from the PC goes through the suppression and noise gate, which obviously annoys everyone I am on Discord with. Through some research I found that most people filter out the background noise with IL Minihost Modular and Reaper Plugins. The issue I have is that I can't get the noise filter to work because I am not getting any Mic Input in IL Minihost Modular when Audio Device Type is set to ASIO. In Device I have several options, but the only that allows to be selected is 'Voicemeeter Insert Virtual ASIO'. Any other option gives me a "Error when connecting audio device! Can't set sample rate: 44100". After hours of tinkering I still haven't managed to get it to work. I've been looking for other solutions, but everyone seems to be using IL Minihost Modular.
  2. I can potentially see a LTT Themed PC Case as a partnership with another company, but I don't think they will ever make custom prebuilt PCs, except for certain customers as they are already doing.
  3. Well, I just ordered it. Hoping for the best. Worst case I'll open the sidepanel and get a riser for the GPU. The radiator barely fit as is, had to squeeze it in.
  4. That is most likely how tight my fit will be But as I said, as long as it runs without crashing for a couple of months before I get a bigger case, it's fine for me as long as it fits.
  5. I see now what you mean. I was more focused on the actual clearance between the GPU and the radiator. Trying to fit it into the S340 wouldn't be a permanent solution. I intend to get a new case at latest by October, while I turn my spare parts of my previous PC, including the GTX1070, into a Media PC to connect to my TV. It will use the S340 case. I suppose it will be fine for a couple of months? At this point an upgrade would be a stable rig that doesn't crash due to the GPU overheating.
  6. Size isn't a concern for me (as long as it fits). That clearance looks similar to mine Note that the GTX1070 EX is a 296mm (with bracket) card, so there still is a bit of room left to hopefully fit a 336mm (with bracket) card.
  7. Looks like the 4070 EX has a pass-through. Is this it?
  8. As the summer keeps getting hotter and hotter, so does my old 1070. Dusted it off, gave it a quick clean, but it still overheats (which causes a driver stack bsod). Changing the thermal paste would do the trick, but an upgrade is long overdo. Debated whether to get 4060ti or a 4070, but as I always get XX70-series GPUs, I decided to get a 4070. My choice is between the KFA2 RTX 4070 (dual fan) or a KFA2 RTX 4070 EX (triple fan). I like KFA2 as a brand because the price is right, they perform well and are durable. My KFA2 1070 EX has been running strong for almost 7 years with an (on average) daily use of about 8 hours. It's still going, just needs some service. My case is a NZXT S340 (non Elite) has an advertised GPU clearance of 364mm. I have an Arctic Liquid Freezer II radiator in the front, with 2 fans mounted to it from the inside of the case. I measured something in between 335-340mm of clearance from the bracket mount to the radiator case (it's hard to measure it exactly due to angles). The 4070 EX has an advertised (with bracket) length of 336mm. I probably get about 1mm to 3mm extra, as the radiator find a few mm inwards from the beginning of the radiator case. Either way, it will be a tight fit, but it should fit. Even though the 40-series GPUs are much more efficient, I'd still prefer to get more thermal headroom as I understand that those GPUs like to boost as high as thermals will allow them. Obviously, the easiest 'fix' would be to get a bigger case, which I will with time, but I've been focusing on getting a GPU for the past year and want to take my time in choosing a proper case. A proper case is not in the budget right now. Now to the actual question: Is it worth getting a triple fan over a dual fan 4070? Price is not the issue, the EX costs 20 € more, but should I save myself the headache of potentially not being able to fit the GPU due to 1mm of clearance or is it essentially the same to get a dual fan or triple fan, performance-wise?
  9. Using it in Client Mode. That's the first thing I tried and it worked great right out of the box, so I did not try any other methods. The only thing I need to keep track of is the channel, which get scrambled every time the device reboots for whatever reason, but other than that I am very pleased. I currently have no intention to have multiple devices talk to each other through LAN. I am considering a media server, but then, I might just plug in an external hard drive directly to my TV instead of streaming through my local network.
  10. Just to update in case someone stumbles on this thread with a similar question. I 'solved the problem' in a different way. As I did not want to make any modifications to the walls, and it wouldn't have been possible without at least some cables being visible, I ended up using a Wireless Access Point as a WiFi Router for my PC. The connection is perfect, and at least according to my testing, there is marginally no difference between a wired connection or using the access point, in terms of ping, speed and reliability. Of course, there could be slight drops in speed depending on how many devices are connected, but I am not that concerned about dropping a few mbps here and then, but rather the reliable connection and low ping. Logically thinking, it cannot be the same as a wired connection, but I haven't noticed any measurable difference. The AP is set up to connect to the wireless network and connected to the PC via Ethernet, so it shows up as a wired connection. As it is connected via Ethernet, I have the flexibility to move the AP whereever I want, within cable reach, so I mounted mine all the way to the room entrance so there is virtually almost no distance between the router and the AP and no walls (other than the door, if closed) between the router and AP.
  11. I own the space and I'm preparing it for living. I was there yesterday and I checked out the floor slats and running through them won't be possible. I thought they were somewhat hollow, but they aren't. Also, the distance I had in memory was much greater than it actually is, so even if I use Port 1, I could potentially get away with 5ghz or at least a very good 2ghz WiFi connection. I do in fact have a pantry, with is the room behind Port 2, which could serve as a pantry/server room. Is there a way to test if the ports are separate or connected to each other? I made a mistake though: the ports are not RJ-45 but regular phone plugs. I had 2 phone plugs in my previous home too and they were splitted (same connection, split into 2 ports). If that is the case, would I be able to use the second run, run it through the wall into the pantry, have a switch there and then run Cat6 cables from the pantry to the office? I'm not sure if that would work since the model hold your credentials for the connection with your ISP, so would it work if I had 2 modems connected at the same time? I have plenty of spare modems lying around and I'd just need them as a interface between my home and the ISP and as a switch to connect ethernet to.
  12. I'll definitely need a switch once I get ethernet into the second room. The question is how to achieve it as estetically pleasing as possible without drilling through walls. I remembered that the flat has floor slats which, based on my memory, seemed to be quite hollow, so maybe I could route a cat6 wire through them into the other room. The only issue being the door, I'd have to check next time I'm there if a cat6 wire would fit through the edge gap of the door. If it does, that could be a great solution as the cables would be virtually invisible except on the points in which it enters and leaves the slats.
  13. I put my Paint skills to the test and made a quick diagram of my flat layout. For some reason, it has 2 ethernet ports: Port1 in the living room and port2 at the entrance. I'm still renovating and not living there yet, so I haven't had a chance to try it, but I am thinking about how to utilize the 2 ethernet ports. I'd use Port1 for the living room to connect the router directly to the TV because I'll have TV channels provided as a package through my ISP, so that is one thing that definitely has to be wired directly because it wouldn't work otherwise. I've drawn where my Office/Game Room would be. Obviously, I'd love to somehow get ethernet to the PCs without having too many cables visible. I could technically drill through 2 walls and get ethernet into my office, but that's not something I'd like to do. I could use WiFi, but I'm not a huge fan of it. I will have wifi for the home, but I'm not a fan of Wifi on Computers. In my experience, it was unreliable for me. I'm still debating which port I should use to connect the router on. Port1 would be the best option for the TV set and the rest would be Wi-Fi, while Port2 would be closer and easier to route into the office. Edit: Forgot to mention that Powerline could be an option, but I've never used it and I don't know how reliable it is, especially for gaming.
  14. It really is. I compared many different manufacturers and models and the TCL beats most of the name brands. Eg. there are equivalent Samsung or LG TVs, but they cheaped out so their either don't have Dolby Vision or Dolby Atmos, come with a 120hz panel or just a 60hz panel etc., have barely noticable dual 10w speakers, are just QLED without mini LED etc. TCL has it all: Dolby Atmos, Dolby Vision, 144hz, dual 15w speakers + 20w subwoofer, Mini LED and more. I even found a deal that offers the current gen 65C935 at last gen 65C835 prices for about 1159€ with shipping so I am very close on ordering that. I'll sleep on it, maybe look for some other deals or TVs, but I'm 90% sure I'll get the 65C935 deal. It's too good to miss out on (and before people wonder, no, it's not a "too good to be true" kind of deal, it's from a fairly reputable retailer that has a 20% discount spring offer going at the moment).
  15. I couldn't find anything on that site, but did some more research about TCL and they seem to be a very good mid-range brand. They strip out most gimmicks the average consumer doesn't want or need and focus on the important stuff. I've looked at the 65C735 or the newer gen 65C835 which are both great, with the 835 being better overall with better brightness and better speakers (dolby vision and atmos) and they are on sale right now for about 1200 €. The current gen 935 is even better, but at 1500 € I might find comparable or better offers from other brands.
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