Adraen

Hi @TheSpectre
 
You should be able to group multiple connections together with NIC teaming that is available in recent versions of windows (IIRC server 2012 R2 and windows 10), but considering the networks you have it's not something I would very much recommend. (if you don't use windows you can do the same with OpenVSwitch for instance but if you have never done any networking before that might be a bit tough)
 
NIC teaming is mostly useful when you have ~equivalent connections, as the different flows are load-balanced across the different links that are available (well there are multiple types of load balancing you can choose from with different rules) but considering that you have a not great (low throughput) powerline adapter and a not reliable (high latency, high jitter) wifi connection you will never really know what to expect per-flow so you might end up having a reasonable throughput but fairly bad and varying performance (which isn't great at all for gaming/VoIP for instance)
 
How old are your powerline adapters? I'm wondering if the low performances you're getting is due to the adapters being from an older gen, or it's because the electrical in your house isn't great and therefore the signal degrades significantly. Might be worthwhile checking few things out if your adapters are good, such as which plug it's connected to (avoid multi plug it kills performance)

Not very much worth it, it's a screenshot of the network settings ... Just modify the adapter you want to have priority with a low metric (for instance 10) and the other adapters with a metric above that (11, 12 ...).

The easiest way to do this in windows 10 that's reliable is to change the interface metric, the interface with the lowest metric will take precedence
 
EDIT: You can do that on the Network Sharing Centre > Network Connections > Device properties > Internet Protocol V4 > Properties > Advanced
 

I edited the post above to explain, don't know why the screenshot isn't showing though ... 

(I hope it's okay to post after one (two) of my posts?
 
Did a bit more debugging today, looks like I got the tacho reading working, the 12V is fine (but I think I killed one of the fan because of the PWM level at 12V instead of 5 ...)
 

 
The sensor reading from the BMC a bit lower than it should as the arctic F12 should be up to 1350 RPM but it's a detail. Regarding the Critical Status I would guess it's because of the present pin not being asserted (but I still don't know how to deal with this one). Later on I will try to plug a second fan on tach1 of the same port, might be because it needs both fans to be operation (1A and 1B)
 
If anyone is interested here is the tacho reading:

 
EDIT day after: Looks like it was simply requiring both FAN1A and FAN1B, I hooked a second fan and it works, at least for the sensor and fan status  still need to look into the PWM
 

Hi everyone,
 
First off that's my first message on the LTT forum, I've been following the YouTube channel for a while and came here quite a few times to read about stuff but with the build I'm currently working on I think it was time to signup 
 
So the build is quite different from the other ones I've seen around here (I've seen some very great builds btw), for the sport I'm trying to build a relatively cheap very capable machine (not for gaming) out of components mostly from Ebay (hence the name). I made another one earlier in the year out of a proliant DL140 G3 that was cheap but the build is quite dodgy so I'm going to spare you with that one and directly go to the Ebayinator II
 
1. Components
Component Model Price Note Motherboard Intel S2600GL £81.00   Processors 2x Intel Xeon E5-2670 SR0KX £112.60   Memory 17x Samsung/Cisco 4GB DDR3 Reg ECC £69.60 only 13 sticks working, got refunded 4 PSU Intel 750W DPS-750XB £40.00 Very unusual PSU (only 12V output) Waterblock 2x Cheap noname copper waterblock from ebay £17.64 Pump SC600 Pump and Reservoir £21.58   Radiator Coolgate HD360 £35.00 Fans 3x Arctic F12 PWM rev2 £13.14 Fittings 6x XSPC G1/4" to 3/8" barb £12.00 Could have been cheaper from ebay but didn't want to wait another month ...  
(is there a proper way to create tables through the editor? I had to go through the chrome devtools ...)
 
2. Building the Loop
All the components for the loop, mostly no-name ones. I was quite a bit worried at this point if this would be a big fail with everything leaking water everywhere ... I went for the syscooling pump mostly because it was very cheap ... I tried to find some info online about it but couldn't find much at all and to my surprise it works very very well, it's very quiet and the build quality is very descent (the Ebayinator I has the SC300 which has a terrible build quality but works fine)

 
Assembled the loop, zip-tied the tubing at the fittings, plugged it in my bench power supply and gave it a test-run. For the fluid I was planning to use some Mayhem premix I had but then I went for some de-ionized iron water from waitrose (£1 a 1L bottle) which I think will be very good. After a quick check at the composition of the water (and a bit of google-fu) I noticed that there was some mild biocide AND anti corrosive in it already which makes it perfect. The only thing is the water was very oxygenated (you can see the tubes are white because of all the tiny bubbles) so I left the pump fill port open, and ran the loop for about an hour and after that everything was fine. Then I went to leak testing overnight and to my surprise everything was fine.
 

 
Okay now that the loop is working I got to mounting the fans on the rad, as I went for the el-cheapo arctic F12 there is no rubber grommet for the noise so I improvised using some spare tubing I had and slicing off some thin grommet out of it, work very well ...
 

 
3. Mounting the loop
 
 
The waterblocks included some bolts screws and springs for the mouting, however the backplate on the motherboard use a significantly larger screw diameter. I managed to get some M4 screws and grommets and reused the springs from the DL140 (ebayinator I). Luckily the hole diameter in the waterblock was just right for the screw (well almost but nothing that some elbow grease doesn't solve)
 

 
Now that everything is in place I mounted the loop on the motherboard. I don't have a case yet for it, so I zip-tied the pump on the lid of the motherboard cardboard box, it's a bit ghetto but it does the job until then. At the moment I'm using some cheap thermal paste so I won't put temp benchmarks just yet  I've got some proper one coming very soon.
 

 
Time for the first boot, I had to improvise for the fan for the time being (the motherboard use different fan connectors) so I rigged the bench PSU and breadboard with some molex 4 pin connectors that I had to modify (remove a bit of plastic on the back of the connector to work for both 3 and 4 pin fans).
 

 
4. Fan adapter
The breadboard and PSU technique is clearly not great :D, I would like to use the PWM control and the tacho readouts directly from the motherboard. I sourced from RS components some connectors and crimps for the fan connector on the motherboard (1 row 10 pins), crimped the cables to be able to experiment on a breadboard. Here is the cable for experimenting:
 

 
TODO: Add more details here (connector pinout, finished cables)
 
5. Case
TODO: I'm thinking about getting a metal drawer at a second hand shop ...
 
6. Front Panel IO
TODO
 
 
Cheers.
Let me know if there is anything you want more details on, and of course suggestions are more than welcome. I've got many more (bad) pictures so if there is anything I haven't added above or anything you want to see let me know.

Hi everyone,
 
First off that's my first message on the LTT forum, I've been following the YouTube channel for a while and came here quite a few times to read about stuff but with the build I'm currently working on I think it was time to signup 
 
So the build is quite different from the other ones I've seen around here (I've seen some very great builds btw), for the sport I'm trying to build a relatively cheap very capable machine (not for gaming) out of components mostly from Ebay (hence the name). I made another one earlier in the year out of a proliant DL140 G3 that was cheap but the build is quite dodgy so I'm going to spare you with that one and directly go to the Ebayinator II
 
1. Components
Component Model Price Note Motherboard Intel S2600GL £81.00   Processors 2x Intel Xeon E5-2670 SR0KX £112.60   Memory 17x Samsung/Cisco 4GB DDR3 Reg ECC £69.60 only 13 sticks working, got refunded 4 PSU Intel 750W DPS-750XB £40.00 Very unusual PSU (only 12V output) Waterblock 2x Cheap noname copper waterblock from ebay £17.64 Pump SC600 Pump and Reservoir £21.58   Radiator Coolgate HD360 £35.00 Fans 3x Arctic F12 PWM rev2 £13.14 Fittings 6x XSPC G1/4" to 3/8" barb £12.00 Could have been cheaper from ebay but didn't want to wait another month ...  
(is there a proper way to create tables through the editor? I had to go through the chrome devtools ...)
 
2. Building the Loop
All the components for the loop, mostly no-name ones. I was quite a bit worried at this point if this would be a big fail with everything leaking water everywhere ... I went for the syscooling pump mostly because it was very cheap ... I tried to find some info online about it but couldn't find much at all and to my surprise it works very very well, it's very quiet and the build quality is very descent (the Ebayinator I has the SC300 which has a terrible build quality but works fine)

 
Assembled the loop, zip-tied the tubing at the fittings, plugged it in my bench power supply and gave it a test-run. For the fluid I was planning to use some Mayhem premix I had but then I went for some de-ionized iron water from waitrose (£1 a 1L bottle) which I think will be very good. After a quick check at the composition of the water (and a bit of google-fu) I noticed that there was some mild biocide AND anti corrosive in it already which makes it perfect. The only thing is the water was very oxygenated (you can see the tubes are white because of all the tiny bubbles) so I left the pump fill port open, and ran the loop for about an hour and after that everything was fine. Then I went to leak testing overnight and to my surprise everything was fine.
 

 
Okay now that the loop is working I got to mounting the fans on the rad, as I went for the el-cheapo arctic F12 there is no rubber grommet for the noise so I improvised using some spare tubing I had and slicing off some thin grommet out of it, work very well ...
 

 
3. Mounting the loop
 
 
The waterblocks included some bolts screws and springs for the mouting, however the backplate on the motherboard use a significantly larger screw diameter. I managed to get some M4 screws and grommets and reused the springs from the DL140 (ebayinator I). Luckily the hole diameter in the waterblock was just right for the screw (well almost but nothing that some elbow grease doesn't solve)
 

 
Now that everything is in place I mounted the loop on the motherboard. I don't have a case yet for it, so I zip-tied the pump on the lid of the motherboard cardboard box, it's a bit ghetto but it does the job until then. At the moment I'm using some cheap thermal paste so I won't put temp benchmarks just yet  I've got some proper one coming very soon.
 

 
Time for the first boot, I had to improvise for the fan for the time being (the motherboard use different fan connectors) so I rigged the bench PSU and breadboard with some molex 4 pin connectors that I had to modify (remove a bit of plastic on the back of the connector to work for both 3 and 4 pin fans).
 

 
4. Fan adapter
The breadboard and PSU technique is clearly not great :D, I would like to use the PWM control and the tacho readouts directly from the motherboard. I sourced from RS components some connectors and crimps for the fan connector on the motherboard (1 row 10 pins), crimped the cables to be able to experiment on a breadboard. Here is the cable for experimenting:
 

 
TODO: Add more details here (connector pinout, finished cables)
 
5. Case
TODO: I'm thinking about getting a metal drawer at a second hand shop ...
 
6. Front Panel IO
TODO
 
 
Cheers.
Let me know if there is anything you want more details on, and of course suggestions are more than welcome. I've got many more (bad) pictures so if there is anything I haven't added above or anything you want to see let me know.

Hi everyone,
 
First off that's my first message on the LTT forum, I've been following the YouTube channel for a while and came here quite a few times to read about stuff but with the build I'm currently working on I think it was time to signup 
 
So the build is quite different from the other ones I've seen around here (I've seen some very great builds btw), for the sport I'm trying to build a relatively cheap very capable machine (not for gaming) out of components mostly from Ebay (hence the name). I made another one earlier in the year out of a proliant DL140 G3 that was cheap but the build is quite dodgy so I'm going to spare you with that one and directly go to the Ebayinator II
 
1. Components
Component Model Price Note Motherboard Intel S2600GL £81.00   Processors 2x Intel Xeon E5-2670 SR0KX £112.60   Memory 17x Samsung/Cisco 4GB DDR3 Reg ECC £69.60 only 13 sticks working, got refunded 4 PSU Intel 750W DPS-750XB £40.00 Very unusual PSU (only 12V output) Waterblock 2x Cheap noname copper waterblock from ebay £17.64 Pump SC600 Pump and Reservoir £21.58   Radiator Coolgate HD360 £35.00 Fans 3x Arctic F12 PWM rev2 £13.14 Fittings 6x XSPC G1/4" to 3/8" barb £12.00 Could have been cheaper from ebay but didn't want to wait another month ...  
(is there a proper way to create tables through the editor? I had to go through the chrome devtools ...)
 
2. Building the Loop
All the components for the loop, mostly no-name ones. I was quite a bit worried at this point if this would be a big fail with everything leaking water everywhere ... I went for the syscooling pump mostly because it was very cheap ... I tried to find some info online about it but couldn't find much at all and to my surprise it works very very well, it's very quiet and the build quality is very descent (the Ebayinator I has the SC300 which has a terrible build quality but works fine)

 
Assembled the loop, zip-tied the tubing at the fittings, plugged it in my bench power supply and gave it a test-run. For the fluid I was planning to use some Mayhem premix I had but then I went for some de-ionized iron water from waitrose (£1 a 1L bottle) which I think will be very good. After a quick check at the composition of the water (and a bit of google-fu) I noticed that there was some mild biocide AND anti corrosive in it already which makes it perfect. The only thing is the water was very oxygenated (you can see the tubes are white because of all the tiny bubbles) so I left the pump fill port open, and ran the loop for about an hour and after that everything was fine. Then I went to leak testing overnight and to my surprise everything was fine.
 

 
Okay now that the loop is working I got to mounting the fans on the rad, as I went for the el-cheapo arctic F12 there is no rubber grommet for the noise so I improvised using some spare tubing I had and slicing off some thin grommet out of it, work very well ...
 

 
3. Mounting the loop
 
 
The waterblocks included some bolts screws and springs for the mouting, however the backplate on the motherboard use a significantly larger screw diameter. I managed to get some M4 screws and grommets and reused the springs from the DL140 (ebayinator I). Luckily the hole diameter in the waterblock was just right for the screw (well almost but nothing that some elbow grease doesn't solve)
 

 
Now that everything is in place I mounted the loop on the motherboard. I don't have a case yet for it, so I zip-tied the pump on the lid of the motherboard cardboard box, it's a bit ghetto but it does the job until then. At the moment I'm using some cheap thermal paste so I won't put temp benchmarks just yet  I've got some proper one coming very soon.
 

 
Time for the first boot, I had to improvise for the fan for the time being (the motherboard use different fan connectors) so I rigged the bench PSU and breadboard with some molex 4 pin connectors that I had to modify (remove a bit of plastic on the back of the connector to work for both 3 and 4 pin fans).
 

 
4. Fan adapter
The breadboard and PSU technique is clearly not great :D, I would like to use the PWM control and the tacho readouts directly from the motherboard. I sourced from RS components some connectors and crimps for the fan connector on the motherboard (1 row 10 pins), crimped the cables to be able to experiment on a breadboard. Here is the cable for experimenting:
 

 
TODO: Add more details here (connector pinout, finished cables)
 
5. Case
TODO: I'm thinking about getting a metal drawer at a second hand shop ...
 
6. Front Panel IO
TODO
 
 
Cheers.
Let me know if there is anything you want more details on, and of course suggestions are more than welcome. I've got many more (bad) pictures so if there is anything I haven't added above or anything you want to see let me know.

Hi,
 
I don't think so, there are two rows not three
 
My guess it's an old school serial adapter. The blue plug is RS232 (DB-9) serial plug and the 3.5 mm jack is for connecting to a device that has a sound card but no serial port. (Using the audio for serial data is quite common, you can just modulate an audio signal to act as a serial data stream)

I do think so too, as for this board the fans are actually managed by the BMC (which means that you need to reflash the BMC to update the profile). I measured the present pin and got 3.3V when the machine is on, but from the manual it looks like it's active-low (the N at the end of the pin name). My assumption was that it was an input pin tied to ground by the fan to indicate a fan was plugged (so you can know if the fan is faulty if the fan is present but the tachometer isn't ticking).
 
I'm pretty sure you're right about the PWM pin being shared, AFAIK the fan on the R1000 are double bladed fan (to have very high static pressure) and each fan has it's own tachometer (from the datasheet) but a single PWM is used to control both fans. I will get an oscilloscope and check that out see if the PWM signal is just a standard carrier but at 12V instead of 5, if that's the case a simple voltage divider would do the job. Still have to figure out the tachometer
 
Thanks for the help!
 

I'll have a look at a couple of different generation HP servers at work and see if they also have the same 10 pin connector, if it does I'll see if I can have a look at where it goes etc.

Update: So I had a look at the servers I had around, all of them use traditional 4 pin connectors, so no luck.
 
I brought the oscilloscope and had a quick look around, at first glance it looks like PWM, TACHO1 and TACHO2 are pulled-up to 12V and the present pin is pulled up to 3.3V. Not much more, the PWM line doesn't oscillate (I guess because there is no tacho reading)
 
Anyway I will keep digging! Worst case I could just use the 12V line from the fan connector but what's the fun in that, having PWM and tacho reading would be much nicer.