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Adraen

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  1. Not very much worth it, it's a screenshot of the network settings ... Just modify the adapter you want to have priority with a low metric (for instance 10) and the other adapters with a metric above that (11, 12 ...).
  2. I edited the post above to explain, don't know why the screenshot isn't showing though ...
  3. The easiest way to do this in windows 10 that's reliable is to change the interface metric, the interface with the lowest metric will take precedence EDIT: You can do that on the Network Sharing Centre > Network Connections > Device properties > Internet Protocol V4 > Properties > Advanced
  4. Yes it is but that would be a very very huge pain to configure. First off, if you say the your laptop is much better at receiving the wifi than your desktop could simply be that your desktop's wifi card isn't great. Have a look at what it is, check in the settings of the card if you can increase the transmit power make sure that it's not obstructed (if you have a wifi usb dongle that's probably already the problem). I think you should do some experiments in your local network to see what's the problem excluding the internet connection from the loop. Take your laptop or whatever computer and plug it to your router with an ethernet cable. On your laptop run a bandwidth testing tool (iperf in server mode for instance) and on your desktop do a throughput measurement with the laptop, this will give you the speed your local network can achieve. You could also do a ping to see the jitter (to game you want your latency to be stable) You said before that you could get about ~25mbps so that's what you should see on your local network. Do the test over wifi and powerline you should get the values you mentioned before. Then you can start fixing what's wrong, move the powerline adapter between sockets in the room (not on the same multi plug ofc) and the other one close to the router to avoid as much interference as possible (for instance a power brick (transformer) inline with the adapter will kill the performance) and you can try the same with the WiFi, remove obstacles, change the antenna's direction ...
  5. Hi Thomas, What about a simple IP-in-IP tunnel ? It's supported in Linux and Windows for a while, it has very low overhead (just adding the header) and as long as you've got on which you can create the tunnels to you should be able to scale. What's the usecase for this though? (might be non of my business) I would think a simple openVPN with multiple servers would do the job, especially considering the relative low performance cost nowadays of encrypted tunnels.
  6. Hi @TheSpectre You should be able to group multiple connections together with NIC teaming that is available in recent versions of windows (IIRC server 2012 R2 and windows 10), but considering the networks you have it's not something I would very much recommend. (if you don't use windows you can do the same with OpenVSwitch for instance but if you have never done any networking before that might be a bit tough) NIC teaming is mostly useful when you have ~equivalent connections, as the different flows are load-balanced across the different links that are available (well there are multiple types of load balancing you can choose from with different rules) but considering that you have a not great (low throughput) powerline adapter and a not reliable (high latency, high jitter) wifi connection you will never really know what to expect per-flow so you might end up having a reasonable throughput but fairly bad and varying performance (which isn't great at all for gaming/VoIP for instance) How old are your powerline adapters? I'm wondering if the low performances you're getting is due to the adapters being from an older gen, or it's because the electrical in your house isn't great and therefore the signal degrades significantly. Might be worthwhile checking few things out if your adapters are good, such as which plug it's connected to (avoid multi plug it kills performance)
  7. What are you talking about, stop bashing people just for the sake of it ... Did I ever say the RCA was digital and optical analog? Did I say that optical was direct to the speakers, I don't see what you're going on about to be honest, of course a DAC is used when you have a digital signal that's common sense and of course the quality of the DAC matters. You will if your cables are long and thus you have a high impedance, or you have a lot of ambient electromagnetic noise, why do you think high grade HiFi have shielded cables and sometimes even twisted pairs? Read this article http://www.atlascables.com/right-connection.html In his case he would have the choice to get the analog audio out from the TV through RCA/Jack which means you use the DAC from the TV (which aren't famous for great audio quality ... and then the ADC in the line-in of the sound-card then the DAC out to the headphones) or to split the audio out from the input signal which is the DIGITAL audio signal from the PS4 hdmi and pass it directly to the optical input of the computer (and therefore no dodgy DAC from the TV in the process and no signal degradation in the carrier). RCA is good and will do the job most of time especially for the case that azurite2 is considering here, but again with optical you will have no noise in the carrier but you will have some in the DAC (depending on the resolution but again you will have a DAC anyway in any audio system). Anyway not interesting in a flame war, passed the age for this ...
  8. Me again, looks like there is little interest here but anyway it becomes a struggle-log Came across an image of the FAN for the system and the fan connector also has 10 pins which reassure me quite a bit about the fan housing not doing much (or anything at all) I also found a patent (https://www.google.com/patents/US20140211353) which describes the PRSNT_N pin and it uses the voltage drop across the diode to detect if the fan is present or not. I grounded PRSNT_N hoping to get something on the PWM line but still nothing just a straight 12V signal ...
  9. Adraen

    Python filenames

    Sounds like a fun project!, You are using the wrong syntax for the string form, change [] to {} as shown below >>> username = "hello" >>> "[].pem".format(username) '[].pem' >>> "{}.pem".format(username) 'hello.pem' >>>
  10. No worries, hope it helps. Before you buy anything, give it a shot almost every TV I've seen have the RCA out and finding the cable is very easy (you probably have a box of old cables no?) so you can try it out.
  11. The audio out with RCA can be very decent, until not so long ago it was used almost exclusively for consumer hifi, it's not lossless like optical but I doubt that will be very much a problem. You can probably find a cable (RCA to jack) quite easily to test things out before you decide which way to go
  12. No clue if the SPDIF cable would work sorry, someone else might know :). I would have used something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Audio-Cable-Splitter-1-Mini/dp/B00004Z5CP?ie=UTF8&keywords=rca to 3 5mm&qid=1465483373&ref_=sr_1_1&s=electronics&sr=1-1 (or if you have a speaker out using a 3.5mm jack on your tv a simple jack-jack cable) and plug it in line-in (the blue audio connector)
  13. (Why do you need to go through your computer to go to your headphones? are they USB?) What about using an RCA-to-jack cable to connect the audio out of your TV to the line-in input of your sound card and just feedback the line-in to your headphones.
  14. (I hope it's okay to post after one (two) of my posts? Did a bit more debugging today, looks like I got the tacho reading working, the 12V is fine (but I think I killed one of the fan because of the PWM level at 12V instead of 5 ...) The sensor reading from the BMC a bit lower than it should as the arctic F12 should be up to 1350 RPM but it's a detail. Regarding the Critical Status I would guess it's because of the present pin not being asserted (but I still don't know how to deal with this one). Later on I will try to plug a second fan on tach1 of the same port, might be because it needs both fans to be operation (1A and 1B) If anyone is interested here is the tacho reading: EDIT day after: Looks like it was simply requiring both FAN1A and FAN1B, I hooked a second fan and it works, at least for the sensor and fan status still need to look into the PWM
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