TomSerious

For what it's worth, you don't need to install any nonsense if you simply use them as a normal headset. I have both a HyperX Cloud Stinger Core Wireless and Logitech G533, neither of which require any special software to work.

It fixed it 😅! it was G-Syncing every application and for the new (ugly) Outlook and FreeCAD it "crashed" the screen so it went black for a couple seconds.
I tried 3 cables already!
 
Now I have it on 120Hz instead of 138 Hz (it actually says that G-Sync only works to 120Hz in some 'hidden' manual), and no more problems!
Already canceled the Alienware monitor since I also really love the PG42UQ 👍

It fixed it 😅! it was G-Syncing every application and for the new (ugly) Outlook and FreeCAD it "crashed" the screen so it went black for a couple seconds.
I tried 3 cables already!
 
Now I have it on 120Hz instead of 138 Hz (it actually says that G-Sync only works to 120Hz in some 'hidden' manual), and no more problems!
Already canceled the Alienware monitor since I also really love the PG42UQ 👍

That most certainly doesn't make any sense. Sounds more like a bad cable. I have the same panel in my LG C2 42" and absolutely adore the thing, wouldn't trade it for the world. 
 
You could also try HDMI 2.1 assuming you have a GPU capable of that (I'd hope so owning a 4K display). 4K 120hz HDR 10-bit works great via HDMI 2.1 on my C2. 

The alienware OLED 34 is not the best. TBH, OLED is freakin awesome but the shortcomings of it and the software voodoo you gotta do to make it run well for a year or two before you are in RMA hell is intolerable too me. If someone can improve it to make it competitive with other LCD/LED types then im all in, but i refuse to spend a good chunk of loot on something that is def going into rma within 2 years most likely 3 if youre real lucky and dont use it much.
  With that said, I use a Alienware 3821dw which is a IPS LED 1ms gtg unit so it will be stable and you will get some longeviity out of it. You get G-Sync ultimate with the upgraded chip and its freesync compatible. Its got the 2300 curve to it which is perfect, its curved but not so much that it introduces distortion etc.. the HDR is terrible and i dont use it, but im not a big fan of HDR anyway so im not missing it. Its 144hz, has a under screen light which i love and the OSD controls are well done. The only other thing i can think of now is that it comes from Dell and it has a advanced exchange service and the premium panel guarantee replacement policy if anything happens with it or you get even one dead pixel for 3 years.
  All monitors will make some compromises here and there but this is one of the few,imo, where they tried to ding all the bells and came damn close. It performs as it should and i really love it so far. Thats my best pick for ya. Oh, and the base panel is a LG panel.😉

Thank you all so much for your replies!
 
I just found a 'maybe fix' for the Asus PG42UQ, it's flickering with some applications and I thought it's a defective DisplayPort port...
 
Now that I read more and more, it sounds like I have the monitor in OC mode (138Hz) and G-Sync only works up to 120Hz, which could explain the flickering for certain applications...
 
I will test it when I get home from work, but I also ordered the Alienware 34 inch (AW3423DWF) to see if I like it more 😅
Thanks again!

Best is defo OLED like Alienware 34 
Burn in is still a discussion topic rather than a real problem, I didn't see yet any burn in report on OLED monitors

PG279AQN ... if you can actually drive games at 360FPS 1440p

I am highly against the g9 as you often need to sens it back multiple times to not get a shit version of it that has all the common issues.
 
The main issue for you is that you are in a niche of a niche of a niche. Basically the only other alternatives are tvs and the phillips tv that became a monitor but is still really just a tv.
 
Other than the asus there isnt much in the 42 inch bracket for monitors

https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/WQvqqs/samsung-odyssey-g9-490-5120x1440-240-hz-monitor-lc49g95tssnxza
 
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/product/2srYcf/lg-ultragear-38gn950-b-380-3840x1600-160-hz-monitor-38gn950-b
 
The 2nd one is a weird resolution tbh. If you can do an even higher screen, then definitely recommend the Samsung monitor.

Thanks for all your help, guys! Indeed, I had VBS/HVCI activated in my BIOS settings so surely turned those off (Intel VMX and VT-d).
 
But that was actually not the cause! I had the memory ECC function enabled in the NVIDIA control panel and from what I read, it kinda limits the memory bandwidth which resulted in lower FPS and final score.
 
Disabled it, rebooted, ran Speed Way again and boom, got roughly 100-110 FPS which gave me a final score of 10070 points. So I guess this problem is solved. 😁
 
What I don't understand is why every time any 3DMark test finishes, I get an application error entry in the event viewer saying it crashed and creates a DMP file in the appdata folder. I don't get any black screens etc. and if I didn't look into the event viewer, I wouldn't have even known that it crashes somehow in the background... 🧐 Played a bit of MW2 and started the campaign of NFS Unbound for a couple of hours and didn't experience any crashes or similar issues.

Hey, thank you for your suggestions! 
 
I finally found an app that works with my personal outlook / Hotmail account! 
 
It's called "OneCalendar" and it does everything I want from a calendar app ?
 

NVM I destroyed the flash drive (to remove the data) and it's going back to amazon ?

Did you read the above, they want raid 1, so any drive can fail and you can keep going.
 
 
For windows, you need hardware/firmware raid to have bootable raid. SO setup raid in the bios and your good.
 
But id personally not do this as the chance of a ssd failure is lower, and backups are they in that case. And using raid for boot often disables some features like trim. Just get a single good ssd(like a 860 evo).

Good thing you have the Pro version. Go to the start menu/search bar and type gpedit.msc
 
I'm not sure EXACTLY where it's configured, but in group policy (local policy, assuming you're not connected to a domain), find the power option configuration and set it to whatever you want. The policy will take precedence over any other settings.
 
Once set, open up command prompt as admin, type "gpupdate /force" and then let it do its thing and restart your computer afterwards. Now your computer has a policy letting it know exactly what settings it should be for your power plan.
 
 
-----------path-----------
Local Computer Policies > Computer Configuration > Administrative Templates > System > Power Management
 
From there you can change settings as you see fit. You can't do this with W10 Home, but Pro you can. @Fraser Cow
 

Yes, you'll get severe lung cancer and you will slowly rot from the inside. /s
 
The main risk is the quality of the air that's around you. The fact that it went through the PC doesn't make it any better or worse.

nope DMI 3.0 (x4 from CPU to PCH)
 
so it takes the x4 and allows it to be used by up to 24 lanes
 
bearing in mind that most devices don't saturate their lanes

I understand. So you are in search of a program that does this?
 
I would try Veeam: https://www.veeam.com/windows-endpoint-server-backup-free.html
 
In this scenario, you'd be backing up your entire Steam directory.

If the overclock is unstable it could cause problems. Perhaps you should dial it back a bit to see if it fixes the problem. 

well, you have ssds so its not the drive speed. could be a corrupted OS. If it is truly windows xp level slow you might want to format the c drive and reinstall windows after pulling off all important files. If its only a little slow than I would just chalk it up to windows programs adjusting to the windows update. 

Run a malware scan and update all your drivers. 

Just got my second 1080 Ti, thanks all ^^

The 1080Ti's are pretty good in SLI if you do some high resolution gaming, such as 4k or triple monitor. It's not uncommon for them to hit a CPU bottleneck. If you're considering SLI, I strongly recommend that you enable DSR to get the most out of the two cards.
 
It's not a direct reference, but to give you a rough idea of SLI scaling, here's a decent summary of SLI scaling on 2x vanilla 1080's https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/GeForce_GTX_1080_SLI/20.html

Then sorry for the misunderstanding and thank you!

i'm in the same boat as you are lol.
have 564 games but unable to decide which to play. 
Bored since 2 weeks, tried playing h1z1, CSGO n player'sUnknown BattleGround but i felt Meh, dun know whats going on with my mood with games