crazyfrog

I got a bit further and I want to be able to just print everything and it take 10 minutes with all my materials in a small area. When I’m searching for sticker cutters I’m finding the silhouette, cricut and loklik they’re all fairly similar with different softwares. The motors and blades don’t seem to be as good as the commercial stuff though and graphtec seem to be the premium brand. I’ve looked for other vinyl cutters as the graphtec seems expensive and 14” vinyl cutters from aliexpress look great built with basic arm chips like gdm32 or atmegs but they don’t have an optical eye/scanner to align printed a4 sheets which is something I’d really like to be able to do.

Is it standardised like STLs in prusaslicer, windows printing? Cups print server from my raspberry pi any good? is it worth me learning adobe Illustrator? Annoyingly I can use photoshop, 3Ds max for modelling but no experience with vector based 2d graphics and I blame my U.K. schools teaching office like typeaway software in primary school and Microsoft office in high school, every once in a while getting out a roamer robot so they could say they taught us programming

A better question would what computer wont run better with a SSD

So I've wanted to learn how to use a vinyl cutter for a while and I was really impressed with PC for grant, apparently maddison did the artwork using the vinyl cutter. I dont want to replicate that but what hardware, software and tools would I need to do something similar? Linus is smurf no filter K

I've tried them. Just gone onto spraying IPA into the ram slots and inserting and removing a ram stick, heating dry with a hair dryer. Also done a really good visual inspection and no issues. The crack sound on boot has to be a symptom of a hardware failure, tempted to try reading bios but I dont have the correct adaptors for my CH341a. I'm tempted to remove the chip and resolder to a small adaptor board but the PCIE slot is right next to it and too much bother. IMG_0515.HEIC IMG_0513.HEIC IMG_0514.HEIC

As in post I've tested known working ryzen 1200. Agreed tried removing power, hdmi cable, cmos and shorting power headers for 30 secs and no change. Havent pried off cover to inspect but looks okay, tried a known working ryzen 1200. No change. Its just a big heatsink resting on the cpu and random fan, for boot testing its fine. I'm sure latest bios doesnt remove 1000 series support.

Any Ideas? I've been presented with a b450m-pro vdh max with a ryzen 1600 all unknown conditon but the combo wont post. I've added known working ddr4, rx 480 and also tried a 9400m and ryzen 1200. After powering I get a short white light on cpu debug led then all off and fan spin. Theres a short crack on the motherboard speaker. Img 0492.mp4

I deally get something like this and split the 4 pin fan header connection from your motherboard. If you connect directly to a molex power connector it will run at full 12v speed all the time, you dont need that much airflow and all it will do is attract more dust.

Thats brilliant. I researched the waterblock already and found that EK discontinued it and failed to list the size hence I tried to measure it. I'd prefer not to buy from EK I'd like to source from generic suppliers in the UK. https://www.ekwb.com/shop/replacement-o-ring-fc980-fc1080 EK supremacy I'll probably buy an o ring and resell as I dont see myself buyimg an intel rig for a while when AM4 cpus go for nothing. I've got a chinese waterblock that should work well enough for me.

Does anyone have experience replacing seals or aware of standard sizing? I bought a GTX 1080 founders edition with EK water block fitted, EK supremacy intel water block, 240mm and 120mm copper rads, reservoir and d5 pump and the seals I can see are quite work where they seem to just sit flush with the surface they meant to be sealing. I’d like to replace what seals I can on the fittings and gpu water block. For the water lock a 2mmx143mm seems to be the right size as I estimated the old o-ring at something like 450mm long. For the fittings the old seals seem to be shaped rather than o rings but I think o rings should still work. I measured 11.2mm internal diameter, 16.2mm external diameter and a height of 1.2mm so thinking 2mmx11mm o rings will work. for the tubing I think the sizing is 3/8”x5/8”

Yeah the i226 chip doesnt like being connected in a x1 configuration at 2.0 speeds.

confirmed I had a 3600mhz set spare for another build and got to 4066mhz before it wouldnt boot paired in a asus x370-pro board and 5800x. I'm currently running 2666mhz crucial ballisitix overclocked to 3200mhz. z

Megabytes in windows copy window. Its about right for pcie 2.0 x1. 2080 ti is not my gpu and its well known reducing PCIE gives unstable frametimes having little to no effect on framerate. When AMD were insisting they couldnt get 5000 series working on 300 series boards, I didnt believe AMD and thought they were straight up LYING. At the time I had an aging chinese mutant cou, so bought this Asus X370-Pro assuming they would release a bios or community would step in. As you can tell from all that this iteration of my PC was not a well thought out purchase. Final config is NVMe slot 2tb intel 670p PCIE x16_1 slot RTX 3060 ti working at 3.0 x16 speeds PCIE x16_3 slot 2tb samsung 970 evo working at 2.0 x4 USB 3.0 port RTL8156b instead of PCIE based intel i226 chipset. From whats been pointed out here I could get a b450 board that would double my samsung ssd speeds or a b550 board with 2.5g built in. My rtl8156b is the correct solution for me here. PS the rtl8156b is an aliexpress bit I've been using it with a truenas system, qnap modded with arcloader.

I tested the 2.5Gbe port after reading the replies here and although the connection speed is negotiated 2500mbps it only transfers at 106mbps. I don’t have pcie 4.0 only 3.0 so those results aren’t relevant to me.

3060 ti faster than the rtx 2000 series and I'm only running on PCIE 3.0 so awful awful idea telling me to give up half my gpu bandwidth. I'll replace the pc before that.