I Hendrycks I

Thanks for your help! I can only get 3200MHz working without instability but I'm getting better TimeSpy scores than my better timed 3200 2x8 kit before so it's enough for me for now. I'm not sure if 10300 is considered 'good' with a 2070 Super and 3800x but ya! Thanks again.

Thanks for the reply, I found almost all the settings but it still won't boot, but I just tried 1.4v for DRAM Voltage and XMP High Frequency Report on Level 3 and it booted. The only thing is it did this earlier where the whole comp runs very slow at loading programs until it blue screens. I tried running membench when it happened earlier and it popped up a ton of errors saying it can't write to my RAM so I think that it can't handle 1.4v maybe? EDIT: So I tried 1.38v on a whim and it booted and I ran TimeSpy and I got a better score than I've ever gotten across the board. Should I now try fixing up my timings? It's at the rated CL18 atm.

EDIT: So it booted just fine for once! Btw I'm still not 100% on if changing settings in Aorus' menus is better vs AMDs countless menus? Just in case that makes a difference. The AMD menus also don't seem to ever reset when Optimizing Defaults which is odd. Edit 2: 3600MHz with the same settings didn't work. Should I try adding in the safe settings and raising ProcODT?

I'm not 100% sure where the ECC setting is in my BIOS but just to try I input the Safe preset if I set my RAM at 3200MHz and even it won't work. Did I just get a crap kit or is it not working at 3200MHz not a good indicator?

Hey, I had 2x8GB 3200MHz RAM overclocked before in my PC with an Aorus X570 Elite Wifi but just picked up a 4x8GB kit of Vengeance RGB Pro listed @3600MHz but just setting the XMP profile causes my BIOS recovery to kick in and boots me back. On my 3200 kit, I was able to just input DRAM Calcs safe settings and was good to go and saw a bit of an increase in performance but it's very frustrating to have bought more expensive 3600MHz RAM and it can't even hit it easily. I tried inputting the safe settings with my Thaiphoon export but I didn't have any luck. I also raised my DRAM voltage to 1.4v as well. I'm new to this and I have no clue what #s to change, I followed a few things like only inputting the main numbers and raising voltage too but the rest is beyond me. I know it's not the best RAM but I got Samsung B-die and was hoping I could at least get 3600MHz running stable. Any advice is appreciated, thanks!

Some graphics cards have 2 8 pin connectors, or 1 6 pin or whatever else. The 8 pin is the top-left connector or if you combine the bottom-left connector's little thingie with the 6 pin at the bottom-left, it makes an 8 pin. So the top-right connector that says Type 3 goes into your power supply and depending on your graphics cards power needs, you connect either the 1 six pin at the bottom left or the 8 pin or use the 8pin, and combine the 6 pin with the little 3 pin guy to make 2 8 pins. Hopefully that makes sense, lmk if you need any more help!

Personally with my 2070 Super, on DX12 I had a bunch of weird issues I dealt with for about a week where changing volume made me get black screen flashes, audio de-syncing issues, etc. but I finally tried Vulkan out and all my issues went away and my framerate was a little better. I would just try DX12 first and if you have issues, switch over to Vulkan.

So I got bought the 3700X and it's on the way but I have fairly new 2x8GB 3200MHz CL16 Vengeance Pro RGB RAM kit (I know but I like how they look). I noticed after the fact that the motherboard I got, X570 AORUS Elite Wifi doesn't have any of the Corsair Vengeance Pro on it's QVL list. At the same time I can give my existing 2x8GB kit to my girlfriend and grab a faster/lower latency kit if it would yield a decent gain in performance. I'm wondering if anyone has the same RAM with my mobo and has no issues or if anyone thinks an upgrade from 3200MHz CL16 to say 3600MHz would be worth it? I also want to avoid a potential headache with my RAM not working with XMP and would rather order it sooner rather than later. Thanks!

Ah I thought Noctua did, I must be crazy. Would 3 side exhaust not show the ugly cross bracing of the fans as opposed to the clean side? I'm thinking of doing the AIO on the side as intake and exhaust at the bottom? I know heat rises but I heard that the fan airflow practically negates that. Are the ML's that much better than the LL's? Like are we talking vastly better airflow to the effect of 10C cooler or is it negligible at best? The LL120 3-pack is $120 CAD while the ML's are $150 I'd also like to replace the NZXT fans with LL's or something else but again find it hard to quantify the difference in performance of various fans on a Rad in particular. I'm wondering how much of a cooling improvement I'd see overall with 6 fans and the new case? For 6 LL fans and the non-XL case it's around $410 CAD before tax.

Thanks for the reply! I thought it was the Lightning Node Pro that came with the 3 pack that only controls a few LED strips each? And if I got 6 fans would I need to connect 2 of them to my motherboard instead of just 1 Commander Pro? Which fans would you recommend? With a fish tank of a case I'd like to have sweet RGB fans if possible and I'm looking to move away from needing as much software running. I read that the ML's are better but the RGB is lackluster. I know Noctua is supposed to be awesome but would that need different software that wouldn't sync all my RGB together? Thanks!

Hey, I've had a Corsair 600C (the inverted case) for a while but I've been looking at the Lian Li O11 for a few years now. I've been looking at various videos and I find it hard to gauge how much better thermal performance I'll get out of it over my current case as my case is fairly old (2015) so testing methodology has changed at GamersNexus for instance. Atm I have a 2070 Super that hits 80C at full load while OC'ed and a delidded 7700K @ 4.8GHz that hits 77C on a Kraken X62. I'm looking at grabbing either 3 LL 120's at first and another 3 later or possibly buying 6 all at once. I'm confused on how you're meant to connect them all up as well, I guess the easiest is to just get a Corsair Commander Pro to go along with the fans? I might also grab a Corsair AIO as I'd like everything to be synced in iCue but it seems like performance on even a 360mm rad isn't that much better or the same as my X62? I'm also wondering if anyone has any tips on how to 'best' setup the O11 Dynamic and if the XL is worth it? I keep looking at various setups and videos on it but there doesn't seem to be a definite answer on a good fan setup over others. I'm also looking at grabbing a vertical GPU mount, I've seen that CoolerMaster's seems to be my best bet but I'm planning on upgrading to Nvidia's 3000 Series GPUs when they come out so I'm wary that they might be more than double slot cards? I want this to be my main case for a good 5-10 years from now so a bump in price is negligible in years to come but I don't want to get a more expensive case just to have a huge area empty as I'm not doing a custom loop. I'm hoping that getting non-stock fans for the first time in a case will give a bit better thermal performance over what I'm used to. Thanks in advance!

Hey, I've read through a bunch of various forums and posts, especially the pinned one here and I'm still left wondering if my AKG K7XX's will benefit from a DAC/AMP? I was going to just grab a FiiO E10K for $100 CAD but wanted to know if it would really help before shelling out the money. As of now I use my AKG's off of my onboard audio on my ASUS Strix 270F. The onboard audio has different levels for the various Ohms of headphones, from below..54 I believe, then somewhere in the 100's and then finally 160+ or so. The headphones get plenty loud, I'm usually running at 40-50 volume and that's at the peak of what I would be able to handle without hurting my ears. I read all over that people say that adding a dac/amp isn't about loudness but giving the headphones the amount of current needed to give a wider soundstage, better (less muddy) bass, etc. Is that true if my headphones already get plenty loud without any noticeable EMI coming through? Even on very low volumes, I don't hear any humming or anything. I just don't want to buy something like an E10K or a GSX 1000, or a Schiit Stack if it wouldn't really do me any good. Thanks in advance!

I just delidded a few hours ago and was waiting for the glue to dry. The kit took till today cause DHL is incompetent and decided to just say they attempted delivery on Friday when they didn't aha Annnyway - my temps today were 44C at idle pre-delid, jumping to 60C from just simple stuff like Youtube. When gaming, as usual - I was hitting upwards of 85C playing Civ VI. Now I'm getting 22C at idle..not kidding, and with 4K Youtube it's up to 30C...I haven't tried fully benchmarking it yet but with the quick Intel Xtreme Tuning Utility benchmark I was only hitting ~55C - a massive improvement as I was hitting into the 80s before. The most noticeable improvement is that the temps are no longer jumping up and down like a trampoline. At stock with the chip it was going like..30, 60!, 35, 70! over and over and making my liquid cooler freak out (the Kraken X62 defaults to warn you every time it hits over 80C). I'm incredibly agitated at Intel that I had to go through this stress to just have a reasonable CPU.

Thanks for the help, I went with the Rockit 88 kit and it looks like the shipping's by air. It's already set to be delivered tomorrow somehow aha - it only left Houston, Texas today at 1PM EST!

I was about to buy the Rockit 88 from their store but the shipping to Canada is $22 USD. Is there a good delidding kit available in Canada that you've used?