Xiauj

After several different attempts to fix these issues, I still haven't been able to boot past BIOS. 
Errors seem to change a lot now, sometimes I can reach Windows setup with a USB w/ Windows 10, but I can't delete/format some drives (Error 0x8007045d) or install Windows on any of them (Error 0x80300024).

Recently I also received a "GPT header corruption" error screen which I hadn't seen before. Attached. 

Sorry for the delay, 
I replaced the SSD with a Samsung 980 Pro SSD 1TB M.2 NVMe, and removed the original SSD from the system. 
 
Now upon starting the system, I receive "error code 0xc0000185". I cannot get past this screen. 
The system sometimes tries to repair itself, but this never goes further than the screen saying it is for seemingly forever. 
There are no sub-error codes on the top-left of the screen even though I have edited the registry prior to changing the SSD. 
 
The BIOS shows that the new SSD is connected and recognizes it. I was no longer able to replicate the WHEA error earlier while only using the HD. 
Also; not sure if this is important, I've replaced the SSD in the same place the original was, Socket 3. 
 
In order to try to fix this, I have been trying to boot on a USB with Windows 10, but after the BIOS, I am stuck on an infinite loading screen with ASUS's logo and a spinning wheel. I attempted to clear CMOS, but this has also done nothing. Might try some Medicat tools again, see if that does anything. 
I am effectively out of ideas for the time being, any help is appreciated again, thanks. 

Alright, I can edit the registry and get those sub-errors for you. Give me a few minutes, I'm almost done running a test of my SSD's integrity. 
I'm going to have to reformat my drives again before I edit the registry, shouldn't be more than 30 mins. I cannot make it past the  0xc0000185 and 0xc0000000f errors at the moment.
 
By the way; it should be noted I have extreme trouble getting a photo or a picture of what the error code is. I have roughly half a second to see the error code on the BSOD before my PC just resets. Not sure if that is relevant. 
 
Also: I considered the SSD was failing previously, but I am very unsure if this is the case at the moment due to multiple tests of the SSD coming back negative for any problems.
I also ran my secondary HD as a main drive for a while, thinking that this would allow for me to run the PC while I waited for a replacement SSD, however, the WHEA_UNCORRECTABLE_ERROR issue came up again and started causing issues.

We need to see the arguments of the BSOD crash (Think of them as sub-errors). If it already hangs on the BSOD screen (As you can't get dump files) then this step is not necessary, but if it reboots normally after a few seconds then go to this guide and on this screen remove the check for automatically restart. To restart manually, just use the power button.
 
To make the BSOD screen display the additional info on the BSOD screen we need to add a field to the registry. If you are not comfortable editing the registry then do not do this step. Navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\System\CurrentControlSet\Control\CrashControl, right click on the empty area on the right section and select New → DWORD value with the name "DisplayParameters". Right click on it, modify and set the value data to 1 (Does not matter if you use Hexadecimal or Decimal). It should look like this once done. Reboot to apply the registry change.
 
The next time you BSOD, you should have these extra numbers in the top left corner. I want a picture of this.
 
Note that this is only applicable to WHEA_Uncorrectable_Error BSODs. 
 
WHEA + No dump files is usually storage (NVMe), but there are other things that can cause issues with creating dump files. 

Man that is looking sweeeeet  Nice one! I want to find and buy some LEGO Sets now dang it 

Well...
I came clean to my mom. I let her know about how @pinksnowbirdie is my boyfriend and that we've been talking for over 3 years. 
It went a lot better than expected. Now I just have to see how my dad feels about it.

Use a pair of digital calipers to check.

If you bought from Novelkeys, they're guaranteed to be retooled and will fall within Cherry's tolerances. Mike does not sell pre-retooled Box switches anymore.

Sweet! ❤️ Thank Youuu!
Glad I found this one tbh for that price haha

Sweet! ❤️ Thank Youuu!
Glad I found this one tbh for that price haha

Normally brand new and latest model some of these switches can cost $1,000's or 10's of $1,000's of dollars but once they're a couple generations old and find their way on eBay some of them can be scooped up for stupid cheap. Like fully managed 48 port gigabit switches <$40.
 
And yep. Plug'n'play. As Lurick explained CISCO is huge in the networking enterprise space. They make some great (really expensive too) networking gear that you can scoop up for really cheap on eBay.

Ohhhh I see, interesting ? I never knew that lol, just the name and that's 'bout it haha
 
So it's definitely the same model, yeah? Ok sweet!
That's good to know! Thanks! ❤️

Cisco used to own Linksys back in the mid to late 2000's before selling it off when they found the consumer market to not be profitable. Cisco is the largest manufacturer of enterprise networking gear in the world, not to be confused with Sysco (pronounced the same way) the food delivery company
It's an unmanaged switch so it's just plug and play which is what you want

@Windows7ge @wkdpaul @SansVarnic, Ok so I've been looking around at some unmanaged switches and at the ones that SansVermic very kindly linked above (Thanks btw) and luckily, I found one sold by My local Amazon here in the UK (Amazon-UK), however, because I'm a complete noob as You can probably tell by now...  Lmao, I just wanna be 100% sure on a couple of things before I order this 24-Port Linksys switch and return the one I have atm:
 
 
I am able to put the cable as it is, coming from My router, into Port-#1 and have access/hook-up other devices like PCs/Consoles/etc..... in Ports #2-#24..?
Correct?
 
And that is a 19" compatible Rackmount..? I need it to be 19".
Correct?
 
Sorry for all the questions, I just wanna be 100% sure as mentioned :3 

Hey everyone,
I recently bought this rack-mountable patch panel / network switch from Amazon-UK and I'm a bit confused on how to wire it up because I thought it was going to be similar to My other Network switch that I have lying on My desk currently but it's completely different and like I said before, I'm confused. VERY Confused .
 
 
A) Do I need to provide power? Assuming Yes, lol, but I cannot see how You're meant to provide power because this patch panel had come with no plug/power-source when it arrived. There's a earth-wire with a circle-shaped metal hook (Sort of) which I assume You attach directly onto the rack-mount case, maybe? If so, how?
 
B) From what I can tell, the wire that comes from My router needs to be opened up and each of the colours needs to be "punched down" into the patch panel with a "LSA Insertion Tool" in Port #1 so I can then have access to Ports #2-#24? Is that how it works?
 
C) Ports #1-#8 are on one PCB and so are Ports #9-#16 and Ports #17-#24. Can I "bridge" the PCBs together for Ethernet-access and power? If so, how??
 
 
 
Really need some help and advice!
Thanks!

@Windows7ge @wkdpaul @SansVarnic, Ok so I've been looking around at some unmanaged switches and at the ones that SansVermic very kindly linked above (Thanks btw) and luckily, I found one sold by My local Amazon here in the UK (Amazon-UK), however, because I'm a complete noob as You can probably tell by now...  Lmao, I just wanna be 100% sure on a couple of things before I order this 24-Port Linksys switch and return the one I have atm:
 
 
I am able to put the cable as it is, coming from My router, into Port-#1 and have access/hook-up other devices like PCs/Consoles/etc..... in Ports #2-#24..?
Correct?
 
And that is a 19" compatible Rackmount..? I need it to be 19".
Correct?
 
Sorry for all the questions, I just wanna be 100% sure as mentioned :3 

yes, that type of switch is exactly what you need for that type of use (plug your router in one port and the rest of the devices in other ports).
 
Yes, it's rackmountable, 19 inches is the standard and the data sheet says it's a rack mount unit ;
https://downloads.linksys.com/downloads/datasheet/en/LGS116_LGS124_English.pdf

This isn't the first time Discord has had an incident regarding user data, and certainly won't be the last. I feel like this is more on Discord's security moreso than the actual scraping itself as I've been part of a scrape before, which is why I tend to not connect anything major to my Discord, not join any huge Discord servers, and certainly not connect any sensitive information excluding my phone number for two-factor authentication.

-Topic Locked-
 
Content like this is best suited as a Status update.

The big swing-hinges arrived!!!
 
Packaging was atrocious, but everything was there and [mostly] undamaged. Might need a fresh coat of paint to hide some scratches, but meh. 
The strength of the gas shocks are perfect for the weight of the side panels, so I think these will work great. They don't quite stay in the closed position, so I might have to use magnets or something to keep them closed.
 

 

 

VID_20200115_182422.mp4

While I never actually tried to clone from SATA to NVMe, I've read many threads where clones failed and the consensus was the clones failed due to being from SATA to NVMe.
 
I just did some more research and found the issue is actually due to a driver difference, going from MBR to GPT, or both. Most SATA drives under 2.2TB will be formatted MBR. NVMe drives have to be formatted GPT, no matter their size. You cannot clone directly from MBR to GPT without having to deal with boot loader differences. Also, native Windows NVMe drivers (Win 8,x and 10; Win 7 needed to have a driver installed anyway) aren't always compatible and Samsung's driver needs to be in stalled.
 
See this thread for more on this. I appolgize for the wrong answer.

Seen as I'm starting to work from home, I decided I needed a new DAW, so here it is. Thanks to @boggy77 for the help with the components
 
PCPartPicker Part List: https://uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/XtzcMc
CPU: AMD Ryzen 9 3950X 3.5 GHz 16-Core Processor  (£719.99 @ Amazon UK)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H150i PRO 47.3 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler  (£149.97 @ Amazon UK)
Thermal Compound: Noctua NT-H1 3.5 g Thermal Paste  (£6.74 @ Amazon UK)
Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X570-E Gaming ATX AM4 Motherboard  (£284.95 @ Amazon UK)
Memory: G.Skill Trident Z Neo 64 GB (4 x 16 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory  (£421.61 @ Amazon UK)
Storage: ADATA XPG SX8200 Pro 2 TB M.2-2280 NVME Solid State Drive  (£229.98 @ Amazon UK)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce RTX 2080 Ti 11 GB AORUS XTREME Video Card  (£1190.00 @ Amazon UK)
Case: be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 Rev. 2 ATX Full Tower Case  (£236.51 @ Amazon UK)
Power Supply: BitFenix Formula Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply  (£92.99 @ Amazon UK)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 10 Home OEM 64-bit  (£48.00 @ Amazon UK)
Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster AE-9 32-bit 384 kHz Sound Card
Monitor: Samsung C32HG70 31.5" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  (£459.99 @ Amazon UK)
Monitor: Samsung C32HG70 31.5" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  (£459.99 @ Amazon UK)
Monitor: Samsung C32HG70 31.5" 2560x1440 144 Hz Monitor  (£459.99 @ Amazon UK)
Keyboard: Logitech G213 PRODIGY Wired Gaming Keyboard  (£92.99 @ Amazon UK)
Mouse: Logitech MX MASTER 2S (Black) Wireless Laser Mouse  (£95.32 @ Amazon UK)
Total: £4949.02
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2020-01-10 16:39 GMT+0000
 
Yes, it has a sound card, Needed a Microphone input, and that was the easiest way.
 
Also, new network switch:
 

Ah Ok. I don't normally play that many highly intensive FPS games with high/ultra graphics tooooo often... so that should be alright.
 
The primary reason I want to obtain the 3000MHz was and still is because I tend to play some Heavily Modded-MC a lot and I thought maybe, just maybe the RAM-Speeds might(?) be affecting it because we all know MC is based on JAVA and we all know that JAVA loves to hog resources, kind of !
 
So yeah, I think I'm gonna leave the RAM as it is for now and get a new M.2 SSD which I'll be ordering in the next couple days! and then I'm gonna be moving everything from My 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Hard Drive (HDD) onto the M.2 SSD then see how MC performs and possibly consider upgrading the CPU too but I dunno about that yet.

If only I could restore back to an earlier point in life ?‍♀️

Send help...