MentalBlank

After running the test for 2 hours it never crashed at 1.265v. As soon i played overwatch it crashed and lost the game Going to try 1.270 this time.

I just done it manually for the first time in my life, Intel i5 6600k 4.5Ghz, 1.265v. I was running IBT for the stress test (50 cycles) and no crashes, seem stable now. I tried to go to 1.260 but it failed. Do it manually start from 1.300v then if it stable go down to 1.295v and keep going down until it crashes or fail.

Cooler: Corsair H115i, fans running at max 1000RPM Test 1 1.280v, 4.5Ghz, 10 cycles max temp 78C = no crashes Test 2 1.270v, 4.5Ghz, 20 cycles max temp 78C = no crashes Test 3 1.250v, 4,5Ghz, 20 cycles max temp 74C = failed (warning message: Your system was found to be unstable, check your cooling system and/or lower your overclock.) Test 4 1.260v, 4,5Ghz, 20 cycles max temp 74C = failed (warning message: Your system was found to be unstable, check your cooling system and/or lower your overclock.) Should i stick with 1.270v and run the test again for few hours?

If it was stable, should i lower the voltage a little bit until it crashes then increase it by a bit?

I just overclocked my i5 6600k and it's my first time. Did i do anything wrong? How can i tell if the OC is stable or not? Asus z170-a motherboard 4.5Ghz Vcore voltage set at 1.28V (first try)

Isn't 95/100 C too hot? It should be under 85C..

My Asus PG279Q ROG LED wont turn off when the screen goes in sleep mode unless i turn them off manually from the control panel. Is there anything can be done so it turns off once the screen in sleep mode?

I wouldn't mind backlight bleeding that much but i'm not getting the ''premium'' that i payed for. So far i found more issues with this monitor and it's my second day using it... The screen panel feel cheap and loose (the whole thing want to come out), to top that off i found a dead pixel down to the left and something dirty/blurry top to the right. The ROG LED wont turn off once the monitor goes in sleep mode until i turn them off manually which is stupid in my opinion. I have to admit that Asus just sucks at making premium monitors, i had few 200$ Asus TN monitors before and never had a problem with them. Even tho the monitors were cheap but i can confirm they felt way more premium than shitty 1000 $ Swift. Never buying asus ever again. My only positive about this monitor is the full black design other wise i would have picked the acer from the beginning but it has that red toy legs. Anyway thank you for taking your time explaining it to me. I appreciate that.

Hmm i think i will send it back and get pg278.

I got my Swift PG279Q and may swap it with PG278Q and get some of my money back. Is it worth it? Will i have the same problem with TN panel? Also which one would you get if you had the money? This how it looks like when brightness 100% (In reality the bleeding is less)

I said ''if cheaper''

Get the 970 (if cheaper) Here in sweden MSI/Asus Strix 970 cost 58$ less than RX 480.

I think a singel RX480 (8GB) for 229 dollar will handle 1080p gaming with no problem. Wait for reviews, i would recommened watching this guy: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCI8iQa1hv7oV_Z8D35vVuSg

I already ordered it as you can see in the picture, i will try my luck tomorrow and if i had this issue then will return it and go for the TN version or xb271hu.

I just ordered this monitor after having a tough time choosing between IPS and TN. Later i went deep and read more feedback and found out that some people if not 50% having dead pixel and backlight bleed with this monitor. Should i return it if i had the same issues? How about the TN version of this monitor, do TN monitors have backlight issues as well? I'm upgrading from triple 1080p 60Hz TN monitors because i'm getting my 1080 soon and really love this PG278/9Q.

I have H115i with 2x Corsair AF140 (i wouldn't recommened AF for radiator) Anyway my i5 6600k 3.5GHz temp is min: 30C and max 50-65C (depends on my room temp and these are the only 2 fans running in my H440 Chassi) Go with SP version, the only problem with Corsair SP 140mm it has LED and the blades color are blank.

I went for a singel 1080 instead of 2x 1070, not all game support SLI the fact sometimes you get lower FPS in SLI than a singel card. If i had the patience i would've gone with a singel 1070 to save some money, since even the 1070 will be more than enough for me to run games like League of legends, Overwatch, Rise of the tomb raider, GTA V in 1440p.

Asus z170-a Corsair Hydro H115i Intel i5 6600k 3.5Ghz 16GB Corsair Ram NZXT H440W Corsair RM850W GPU: MSI GTX 1080 Sea Hawk X (getting it next week)

I run 2x AF140 (bought them by mistake) and i don't mind that it has no PWM since 1080RPM is quite anyway. Go for the SP version.

Try following this steps and hope it will work. https://www.drivereasy.com/knowledge/fix-issue-after-upgrade-system-to-windows-10-usb-ports-dont-work/

Yes, 61C is nothing to worry about. I have 54C with my i5 6600k (Not OC) I wish i could OC my CPU Corsair Hydro H115i costum fans running at 1080RPM.

If it is USB 3, then install the drivers that comes with your motherboard. I will recommended to download the latest drivers instead of using the disc.

nevaaaa

I got same cooler and chassi and my max temp is Max 70-72C (While running Prime95) and min 28-33 C , liqued 30-31C (Running 2x corsair AF140 full speed 1080RPM). This is Intel i5 6600k non overclocked. I guess your temp is normal also it depend on your room temp too. What speed are your fans running? Set them to 100% and let me know if the temp drops.

Jay2Cents has the same issue with this card.