Mira Yurizaki

While I won't argue the high price (except in cases where people insist no card is being sold for the base MSRP), it's been a struggle trying to get out what I'd argue is basic graphics history to some people. No GPU that was the first to implement a brand new GPU feature was able to use said feature without a large performance hit. And it took years before said GPU feature was more or less mainstream. Or heck, it doesn't have to be a GPU feature, but some other feature. And yet people think the GeForce 20 series should be an exception.
 
They were in that position, but I was too naive (or smart?) back then to visit computer forums so I don't know the bickering that went on back then.

A case like that I feel is no more cramped than smaller microATX or regular ATX cases. If you were working with a sub 15L case, then I'd say you'd be in for a real challenge.
 
The Founder's Edition should fit. Most cards except the super top-tier ones are typically 12" long and a lot of cases account for this.

A case like that I feel is no more cramped than smaller microATX or regular ATX cases. If you were working with a sub 15L case, then I'd say you'd be in for a real challenge.
 
The Founder's Edition should fit. Most cards except the super top-tier ones are typically 12" long and a lot of cases account for this.

Your best bet would be with an active adapter between your xbox and monitor, but im not even sure if that will work.

Yeah it seams I need to experiment with it further. Thank you it'll help a lot.

I'm sure there are people that would do the same for Intel and Nvidia as well, but fans of Intel and Nvidia haven't had to so blindly defend anything that either company did, simply because Nvidia and Intel haven't ever been in AMD's position.

It depends. If the FPS is faster than the monitor's refresh rate, it'll still show image tearing but it's less noticeable. You can however, enable Fast Sync, which makes it so the monitor grabs the last rendered frame while still allowing the GPU to run as fast as possible, which helps minimize input lag.
 
It'll help the dips look less jarring, but that's about it.

Once bitten twice shy,  I know I am guilty of it every now and then.   
 
EDIT: I suppose the introduction of RTX and pronounced lack of competition from AMD brought a few out of the woodwork over the last year.  Trying to be reasonable about RTX was difficult when several members would argue for pages about it.  And there was one member that wouldn't let a single Intel TDP mention go without adding an entire argument about them lying, and how it's all marketing. It was very difficult to actual discuss real issues like the macbook throttling one with those guys clogging up the thread with what may as well have been outright trolling.
 
So it's something that may take a little while longer to die off.

The only requirement for the Switch itself is that the charger supports the USB PD spec and is of at least 15W. The reason why Switches were bricking was solely because of third party docks, which two pins on the USB-C connector have a tight tolerance. The problem with these two pins is one of them delivers 9V, the other is a 5V input into a chip on the Switch and the pins on third party docks sometimes would cross over, feeding the 9V into the input. Supplying 9V into an input meant for 5V will eventually fry it (https://arstechnica.com/gaming/2019/08/heres-why-nintendo-switch-consoles-keep-frying/)
 
If you use a USB charger that's out of spec, it will likely only damage the charger, not the Switch. The Switch is the one who's sucking up excess power, if the charger can't deliver, it'll only give less power.
 
In any case, if you want peace of mind, I suggest getting something from what https://switchchargers.com/chargers/ recommends.

Or at least the AIBs need to offer an "upgrade program"
 
People need to remember not everyone is on their level. If they can even install a new graphics card on their own, that's like a freakin life-time achievement to some people.

There's two major reasons why clock speeds tend to hit a wall:
Power budget. Clock speed is directly related to how much power a processor will dissipate, which in turn means how much heat it generates. Sure we can make processors run to 7-8GHz, but they're outputting so much heat that it requires basically running freezer unit directly on the processor to keep it from frying. Timing issues. Instructions are processed on the CPU in stages. Some stages may become a bottleneck, meaning it limits the actual performance in the end. For example if we had this setup:

And stage 3 was the bottleneck, then increasing the clock speed means that while the rest of the stages complete their work in a shorter amount of time, stage 3 will just hold up the line rendering all of that time savings moot:
There's probably other reasons other things, but those are the two primary ones.

Or at least the AIBs need to offer an "upgrade program"
 
People need to remember not everyone is on their level. If they can even install a new graphics card on their own, that's like a freakin life-time achievement to some people.

Practically all GPUs don't have a upper limit of frequency. They'll boost until one of the following is hit:
A soft cap on the voltage, which is what the GPU won't exceed by default A hard cap on the voltage, which is what the GPU won't exceed ever, because going beyond this will damage the GPU A cap on power dissipation AMD simply raised the power dissipation cap on the new vBIOS. However this means that the VRM may have to be re-validated and cooling profiles have to be tweaked to cover for this.
 
If we're talking base clock frequencies, I'd argue raising it is a moot point unless you're trying to keep the GPU at a set frequency.

Practically all GPUs don't have a upper limit of frequency. They'll boost until one of the following is hit:
A soft cap on the voltage, which is what the GPU won't exceed by default A hard cap on the voltage, which is what the GPU won't exceed ever, because going beyond this will damage the GPU A cap on power dissipation AMD simply raised the power dissipation cap on the new vBIOS. However this means that the VRM may have to be re-validated and cooling profiles have to be tweaked to cover for this.
 
If we're talking base clock frequencies, I'd argue raising it is a moot point unless you're trying to keep the GPU at a set frequency.

If the other software is performing fine, it's likely limited to Metro Exodus, and this post may be better suited to a bug/crash report to the developer. Especially something as generic as "NULL POINTER WRITE"
 
(it basically means the software was trying to store data somewhere that for all intents and purposes, the computer can't or won't resolve where to write the data because the location is gibberish)

You only update BIOS if:
You have a hardware compatibility problem (example, needing to get a B450 board to accept a Ryzen 3000 processor) There's a feature a newer version offers that you'll actually want There's a security issue with the current version that's fixed in a later one Otherwise it doesn't matter when you do it. But don't update BIOS just because.

Practically all GPUs don't have a upper limit of frequency. They'll boost until one of the following is hit:
A soft cap on the voltage, which is what the GPU won't exceed by default A hard cap on the voltage, which is what the GPU won't exceed ever, because going beyond this will damage the GPU A cap on power dissipation AMD simply raised the power dissipation cap on the new vBIOS. However this means that the VRM may have to be re-validated and cooling profiles have to be tweaked to cover for this.
 
If we're talking base clock frequencies, I'd argue raising it is a moot point unless you're trying to keep the GPU at a set frequency.

Hell I wouldn't subject myself to 90+ dB without hearing protection for longer than I have to.

I'd argue get something now and develop on it. Whatever you do is likely going to perform better anyway on later hardware.
 
Ultimately though, you should test on the lowest specification you're willing to support.

An LED monitor in current parlance means an LCD that uses LEDs as the backlight, instead of cold-cathode fluorescent lamps. This breaks down into two types: edge lit and array lit. Edge lit has a row of LEDs on the edge of the panel and a diffuse layer distributes the light. Array lit has an array of LEDs behind the LCD panel that lights up sections of the LCD. MiniLEDs from what I can gather are used to make array lit LED displays have more sections.
 
microLEDs seems to be looked at to specifically use the LED as the complete display element like OLED, rather than using it as another backlight source for LCDs, even though you can still do that. My gut feeling is the mainstream will be white microLEDs used as backlights for LCDs, because it's easier to make.

You only update BIOS if:
You have a hardware compatibility problem (example, needing to get a B450 board to accept a Ryzen 3000 processor) There's a feature a newer version offers that you'll actually want There's a security issue with the current version that's fixed in a later one Otherwise it doesn't matter when you do it. But don't update BIOS just because.

An LED monitor in current parlance means an LCD that uses LEDs as the backlight, instead of cold-cathode fluorescent lamps. This breaks down into two types: edge lit and array lit. Edge lit has a row of LEDs on the edge of the panel and a diffuse layer distributes the light. Array lit has an array of LEDs behind the LCD panel that lights up sections of the LCD. MiniLEDs from what I can gather are used to make array lit LED displays have more sections.
 
microLEDs seems to be looked at to specifically use the LED as the complete display element like OLED, rather than using it as another backlight source for LCDs, even though you can still do that. My gut feeling is the mainstream will be white microLEDs used as backlights for LCDs, because it's easier to make.

No, the second connector is if you're going to do hardcore overclocking.
 
Hopefully it won't care which one is plugged in as long as at least one is plugged in.

As far as I know all 120mm case fans are primarily 12V.

If you don't understand their situation, this is like telling a depressed person they can be cured of their depression by suggesting "have you tried not being sad?"