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Frankenburger

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About Frankenburger

  • Title
    Veteran
  • Birthday 1986-09-18

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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

System

  • CPU
    i7 6850k @ 4.2GHz
  • Motherboard
    ASRock X99 Extreme 4
  • RAM
    16GB DDR4 3200MHz PNY Anarchy
  • GPU
    SLI GTX 1080 Ti
  • Case
    Corsair 760T
  • Storage
    Lots
  • PSU
    750W EVGA SuperNOVA
  • Display(s)
    Asus RoG Swift PG278Q
  • Cooling
    Enermax ETS-T50 AXE
  • Keyboard
    Corsair K70 RapidFire
  • Mouse
    Corsair M65 Pro
  • Sound
    Sound Blaster Z
  • Operating System
    Windows 10

Recent Profile Visitors

2,161 profile views
  1. The way it's currently set up is the modem is wired into the router, and the mesh is wired into the nighthawk. It's really not a big enough deal to go out and buy new equipment. Just looking to see if there's a way to configure the router/mesh settings. The Nighthawk is 192.168.1.1 and the mesh is 192.168.86.1. I've tried manually changing the mesh to match the nighthawk, but that didn't work.
  2. They're both right next to the modem. Bridge mode is not available, only mesh mode.
  3. So there's no way to configure the DNS or DHCP between the two for their connected devices to communicate? Unfortunately, eliminating either one is not an option. Both the Nighthawk and the Google Mesh are necessary for different reasons. Getting rid of either would be more of an inconvenience than just manually switching networks when necessary.
  4. Even so, Mesh has a much slower wireless speed than the Nighthawk. I'd rather deal with the inconveniences of having to switch networks as opposed to lowering the network speed.
  5. That's not possible. We have 3 systems that require hard wire.
  6. I tried a factory reset of the mesh earlier, it didn't give me the option to select bridge. It automatically locked me into mesh mode. Also, using just one network isn't an option. The reason why we got the mesh is because we have dead zones.
  7. I have a Google Mesh network plugged into my Nighthawk router. The Mesh is used for low priority devices, and devices that otherwise would not reach my Nighthawk. Because of this, the devices connected to the Nighthawk doesn't see the devices connected to the Mesh, and vice versa. For example, my PC (wired to the Nighthawk) can't see the printers on the Mesh, and the livingroom TV (connected to the mesh) can't see my media server on the Nighthawk. Unfortunately, when setting up the Mesh, it's defaulting to mesh mode instead of bridge mode, and it won't let me configure it to bridge from the Nighthawk. Hence why I technically have 2 networks.
  8. Honestly, as long as you're not benchmarking, I wouldn't worry about the 1% and 0.1% lows. Keeping an eye on the frametime graph is going to be a lot more helpful, since it shows you the real time variance.
  9. Possibly, but if you can pass a RAM stability test, then it shouldn't be a problem.
  10. Stutter can be caused by a number of things. Poor graphics settings, background processes, hardware, power, drivers, and even frame times. For me, the most common cause of stutter comes from Vsync, so I usually disable that and see if it goes away. Here's an example https://i.imgur.com/G5p0Sb9.jpg - Vsync on, poor frametimes https://i.imgur.com/TSvGPPA.jpg - Vsync off, great frametimes I would configure MSI Afterburner to display your frametimes. From there, disable any unnecessary background process, including gaming and peripheral related software, and set the game's graphics down to low. If you're still getting stuttering, then that should narrow it down to something driver, hardware, or OS related.
  11. Monster Hunter World (Custom ReShade @ 5120x2880)
  12. Guild Wars 1 by a long shot. I've spent over 2000 hours in that easily. It's a shame nobody plays it anymore, and GW2 isn't what I wanted as a sequel. Diablo 2 was a close second, and I used to play Counter Strike Source religiously, but those two are hard for me to put a number on since time tracking wasn't a thing back then.
  13. Definitely use NVENC to avoid a hit to your CPU's performance. Make sure you use the advanced option and set the bframes to either 3 or 4. Also, you could run 1080p/60fps if your bandwidth allows for it, but I'd personally go for 1600x900/60. Most people won't be watching your stream in full 1920x1080 anyway, so might as well size the resolution down a little, which should help retain good image quality.
  14. I've been running SLI since 2014, currently on SLI 1080Ti. Stability really isn't an issue. Either SLI works, or it doesn't. If SLI doesn't work, then you can often get it working by changing the compatibility bits. In the rare occasion SLI causes negative scaling, and changing the bits doesn't help, you can simply disable SLI for the game's process. My only recommendation would be to run games with DSR, SSAA, or with graphics mods. Of course, you don't have to, but SLI is easy to bottleneck at 1080p. Most games simply don't stress modern high end GPUs for SLI to really show its stuff until you start rendering above 1440p.
  15. Really depends on the games you play and how much effort you're willing to put into tinkering with SLI settings. For average users, SLI really isn't worth it. For people who aren't bothered with spending time on system tweaks, and can accept SLI won't always work, no reason not to go with it. This is because many games either aren't SLI compatible from the get-go, or don't require SLI to run effectively. SLI compatibility can easily be expanded with driver tweaks, and older games can benefit from SLI if you super sample and/or use performance heavy ReShade mods, but this isn't the case for most users.
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