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Eastman51

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Everything posted by Eastman51

  1. Looks good to me. Depending on how old, and how much its been used, your old PSU could suffice.
  2. A Z270 board would probably have more expandability, but you'd be fine with what you have now. Just depends on whether or not you'd need the extra slots/features of a newer board
  3. That is a cheap build I keep saved. I like to use it as a foundation to fit into someone's budget. Like I said in my original post, you could up the CPU to a 2400G and try to fit in a 1050Ti. Ofc you could also put an SSD, or bigger HDD as well, and potentially bump the CPU to a Ryzen 3 1300x or something too. OP also said he has a 970 lying around, so he could allocate more of the budget to the CPU. But you must also factor in Windows 10 being ~$90 (you can get it for cheaper, yes, but for baseline price estimates we use MSRP).
  4. This is a $360 build (without OS). You could increase from the 220G to the 2400G, and you could try to fit a 1050Ti in the budget as well. PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant Type Item Price CPU AMD - Ryzen 3 2200G 3.5 GHz Quad-Core Processor $89.99 @ Newegg Business Motherboard MSI - B350 PC MATE ATX AM4 Motherboard $59.99 @ B&H Memory Team - Vulcan 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory $69.99 @ Newegg Storage Toshiba - 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive $47.76 @ OutletPC Case Corsair - 200R ATX Mid Tower Case $39.99 @ Newegg Power Supply EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply $59.99 @ Amazon Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts Total (before mail-in rebates) $387.71 Mail-in rebates -$20.00 Total $367.71 Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-11-26 18:47 EST-0500
  5. I would think you could at least get to 2666MHz, 3000MHz if you're lucky. You'd just have to play around in the BIOS and see what you can do without crashing
  6. That error message is from the laptop trying to do a network boot. You could see if you can disable the network boot in BIOS and that could help. I would also test the HDD and RAM in another system to make sure they work properly.
  7. A Ryzen 5 2600/x can OC pretty well, so a Ryzen 7 isn't really necessary unless you need the extra cores. The 2700 should be able to outperform the 8600k, so. Zen+ is less dependant on RAM speed than gen 1 Ryzen, so you'd be fine; but you could see if you can OC your RAM a little bit.
  8. The good RAM would be throttled by the system to perform equally to the cheap RAM (pretty sure that's how it works anyways), so you would be severely bottlenecked depending on how much worse the RAM is.
  9. Just format the new 2TB HDD and reinstall Windows onto the SSD. It will be easier than cloning and cleaning the 2TB (you will have to clean the drive so that the PC doesn't boot to a nonexistent installation).
  10. Samsung has a pretty nice cloning software that I've used on a number of laptops in the past. You would just have to use diskpart to clean the old drive (clears the boot partition so your PC doesn't try to boot to a nonexistent install). New installs don't hurt. When you're booted into the USB to install Windows, just make sure you clear all the old partitions to prevent any mix ups (easier than going into diskpart, and harder to screw up). Edit: You would need a Samsung SSD to use their software, I believe
  11. Eastman51

    Lazarus

    After having a small case, crammed to bursting, through multiple builds and having to look at the terrible cable management through all of them; I decided that an overhaul was long since overdue. Old case: Corsair 100R - medium sized mid-tower case. Cramped with an ATX board, no PSU shroud (spaghetti everywhere), and very little space behind the motherboard tray. New case: Fractal Design Define R6 (White TG) - Full size tower case. Lots of space for near any build. Integrated PSU shroud (hidden spaghetti), and tons of cable management space. The Define R6 is a fantastic case. Its very spacious and has plenty of cable management space (even for a cable management noob like me). I still have a spilled bowl of spaghetti under the PSU shroud, but its hidden now and really cleans up the aesthetic. My SATA cables are also managed poorly, but are much harder to notice because of the drive tray and rubber grommet placing. I may relocate my 2.5" Seagate drive into the other PSU shroud mounting position, right now it is behind the motherboard tray. If I got cablemod extensions, or a fully modular PSU, I could tidy up the back a bit; but the extra space means I'm at least not jamming the back panel on anymore. The door at the front also hides the DVD drive and really cleans up the presentation. I'm still thinking about how I'm going to do the RGB setup, I may relocate some of the strips, as well as change the breathe effect to a static purple. I also need to fix my peripheral RGB profile to have a ripple on keypress, but CUE (Corsiar's peripheral software) is a dick 90% of the time and likes to break things. The NH-D15 lowered my CPU temps by 20 at idle and 15 under load compared to the 120mm AIO I was using in the old case (the AIO was also used in previous builds, so it's also aging). My GPU temps went up a bit at idle and under load, but I suspect it's because of how close the GPU and CPU heatsink are; so there's not much I can do about it. The sound dampening on the R6 panels makes a noticeable difference over my last case, and the lack of pump noise from the NH-D15 makes my PC now whisper quiet, even under full load (except for the Asus NVMe expansion card's integrated fan. If I leave that on, my PC gets quite loud. Turning off increases the 970 EVO's temps by a few C. It's a good trade off because the card's heatsink keeps the 970 EVO cool enough without it). I did not take any pictures during disassembly and reassembly process, but I did take some before and after shots. (Sorry for the poor, extremely bad, lighting on the before shots. I messed up some settings on my camera, they're better in the after shots; but I'm not a photographer so they're still not that great). Before: After: All pictures were taken with my, antiquated, Sony DSC-R1 camera. Which, imo, still takes pretty good pictures (if you don't screw up the settings, lmao). I used the stock Win10 Photos app to lighten the before pics a bit (they were super dark originally, can't see anything).
  12. If you only play at 1080p and don't plan on going higher anytime soon, the 1070Ti will last you a while yet. And even if you did go up to 1440p, it should still get you 60fps for a year or two (with settings lowering each time ofc). EDIT: I'd go for the STRIX version (they generally run higher clocks and have overkill coolers), but it's up to you
  13. The sale must have been for Black Friday then. But $150 after shipping is still lower than MSRP for the window model (MSRP is supposedly $160 USD without shipping), so that's not horrible
  14. The 1070 Ti is cheaper, and will perform similarly to the 2070 at 1080p and 1440p. So just grab a 1070 Ti
  15. You would not be able to run SLI, as that system requires two identical cards. If you really wanted to use two separate GPUs at once, you could connect monitors to one and select the other in game settings as the render card. You could also do a dedicated PhysX card, even though PhysX is pretty much dead at this point. Otherwise you could just use the second one for that many extra monitors. Edit: @WereCat's suggestion would also work
  16. I got a Define R6 for $110 off Newegg last Wednesday (I got white with window), really nice case. Check newegg and see if they still have any stock/still have 40% off
  17. I'd look up to see how many EPS connectors that CPU needs, and how many PCIe power connectors that particular 2070 needs. If it all matches up ok, you'd be good to go. And if nothing else, you could return the case+PSU and get an alternate combo.
  18. I have no experience with either card. Based off of google searches to see what they look like, the cooler design seems pretty similar. Main factor in thermals would probably heatsink size/layout since they both are dual fan cards. Personally, I would go with the Asus card. Mainly because I've had better experience with their products. But, I haven't heard anything bad about Zotac cards before, so if you want to save some money just get that one instead.
  19. You could do 2x 1440p monitors, 2x 1080p monitors, or 1x 1080p and 1x 1440p. As for your PSU dilemma, you could look at price comparisons between a different case and separate PSU. And if you're that worried about it, you could just grab a $60 case and get a 650/550W fully modular PSU.
  20. The 1070 Ti is a great card, and considering that the Ryzen build should be cheaper I'm not sure why you don't have it on there. Freesync perhaps? I would encourage you to get a 120GB or 240GB SSD as well. In terms of which is better: The Ryzen build has better multi-thread performance and will do better in high thread workloads (like streaming or video editing). The Intel build has better single thread performance, which is typically better for gaming, but the Ryzen 7 (especially with an OC) will do just as well in that department. The RX 580 is the AMD equivalent of a 1060 6GB. The 1070 Ti will destroy it in pretty much everything. Just get the 1070 Ti, regardless of which CPU you pick (unless you want AMD Freesync, I guess). If you want to OC either CPU, you'll need a better cooler. The stock cooler for AMD is decent for stock speeds but quickly falls behind when you start pushing the limits. That Cooler Master 612 looks really weird to me, some images make it look tiny and others make it seem massive. Personally, I'd go for something like a Noctua NH-D15 or a bequiet! Dark Rock Pro, but that's just me.
  21. Are you talking about the Corsair I suggested? I have one right now and the airflow is adequate, especially considering that I have a R5 2600x and a 1070 with all drive bays full. CPU stays below 70C and GPU stays around 65C in low ambient and 70C max with a high ambient temp (These are temps while gaming for around 45min to an hour).
  22. For the case, the NZXT H500 or Corsair 100r. Both are pretty cheap and have a decent amount of space. The Ryzen 7 2700x is a good CPU. if you plan on going with that, nab pretty much ~$100 AM4 motherboard with either B350/450 or X370/470. If you do not plan on overclocking, the stock wraith cooler will do you well enough. If you do plan on overclocking, or have some extra budget grab a decent aftermarket cooler such as the bequiet! dark rock pro Edit: Make sure that the new hardware can be handled by your PSU, if not then get a new one with an upgraded power rating
  23. I'd assume that as long as the motherboard has a PCIe x16 slot, the GPU will work. But with a board that old, your CPU must be quite dated as well; you're likely to run into some CPU bottleknecking with a GPU that powerful.
  24. STRIX GPU coolers are overkill, and run very nicely. My factory OC STRIX 1070 runs below 70C regardless of ambient temperature or the GPU load
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