Eastman51

I think it's fairly normal for Windows to do this.

We have a bunch of brand-new Windows towers at work that we freshly imaged, and they do the same thing.

12 hours ago, Alan G said:

I don't think your setup is good for your purpose.  that case was designed more for a media center application where it's not going to be stressed.  You have a very light weight cooler and the case limits the options here.  I know the Fractal Designs website talks about building high performance rigs in this case but IMO this is not the way to go.   I have nothing against Fractal as they are the only case manufacturer that I use.  My HTPC set up is in a Core 500 and it's only function is to stream content to my TV.  I have a Pentium CPU with the same cooler that you do and it hardly gets hot at all but then I don't game.

I don't see why it would be a problem. As long as the case is sitting vertically it shouldn't create too many cooling problems; the case is vented properly for intake and is designed for use with a dedicated graphics card. 
It seems more like the PSU cooked and died, perhaps because it was a low quality unit or of insufficient wattage

1440p looks nicer than 720p inherently thanks to anti-aliasing effects caused by the increased pixel density of a higher resolution. To me both settings 1 and 2 look nearly the same, except settings 2 is dramatically sharper and clearer. I'd have a tough time seeing enemies in the distance on settings 1 because of how blurry and pixely it is. 

Personally I'd probably go for something in between, like 1080p medium. Whatever settings look decent but allow me to play at a good framerate. 

If you really think cooling is part of the issue, clean any dust and start monitoring temps. If temps read too high, then it'd be valid to consider using better thermal paste, upgrading fans, or looking at alternative coolers. Without actual data you have zero places to start from. For all you know, that heat on the chassis is just because hot air is blowing on it from the GPU. I know that in my ITX PC, certain parts of the chassis get quite warm to the touch due to GPU air; but actual temps are well within safe margins. 

In the meantime, it would be beneficial to find a power supply of more than sufficient wattage and is known to be good. Such as borrowing a friend's PSU for a quick test; I've lended PSUs to buddies before to help them determine their eBay Corsair pos was causing problems. Alternatively, you should be able to see 12v, 5v, and 3.3v readings in HWinfo64; if these readings change too much it could cause the PC to crash and you know for sure something is up with the PSU. It might also be beneficial to pick up a Kill A Watt (or any other similar tool) so you can see wattage draw from the wall. 

Any fans that will connect up to the motherboard or some type of fan controller (like old style DVD bay controllers with knobs to control fan speed) will give you that control you're looking for.

My personal recommendation would be to get Noctua fans, or you can even get a 5 pack of Arctic fans on Amazon for ~$25. Arctic has a PST version of their fans that daisy chain for simplicity. But there's always Y splitters and hubs if your motherboard doesn't have enough fan headers.


As for your fan config, I'd swap the top rear to exhaust. You don't need that much intake, especially on a Ryzen stock cooler. Hell you could even ditch the front top fan altogether and it'd be fine. 

Have you actually tried checking temperature in software like HWinfo64? 
You should also open up the PC and check dust buildup.

A computer shutting off under load could be due to a thermal issue with the CPU or motherboard (overheating GPU generally doesn't shut off a PC to my knowledge) or perhaps an issue with the power supply; unstable power delivery under load could easily cause the system to crash. 

On 2/9/2022 at 4:27 PM, MistahHaskins said:

I was planning on slapping another fan into the case. But I have no screws for it, debating emailing Fractal about sending some more screws for their Focus G

I've never had a new fan NOT come with screws.

I would probably get a new front intake, either a Noctua or an Arctic; pretty much my personal only two options for picking fans. 

I would then run two exhaust at top and rear. 

For the CPU cooler, I'd get either the U12S or the Arctic Freezer 34. While the options you mentioned would perform significantly better than the Intel stock cooler, these two are very good coolers and be something you could reuse for years to come on a future build with a more powerful CPU. You shouldn't have any issues fitting either in your case, they are standard sized air towers.

As for the side panel fan, you said its basically right above the GPU. Assuming you can fit a fan there, you could run one as an exhaust; directly venting heat straight off of the GPU and helping to negate some of the issue you have of your GPU being too long. 

An alternate fan config could see the front intake, side exhaust. And then making the rear fan an intake, reversing the CPU fan on the new cooler, and using the top as exhaust. This would effectively give you two separate airflow paths through the case.

I generally like to have more intake than exhaust wherever possible; this means that in lieu of exhaust fans, air is pushed out of any crevices or vents by default which minimizes dust buildup. Conversely if you have more exhaust than intake, you draw air in from wherever it can in lieu of intake fans; thus drawing in more dust. 

I'd recommend watching this video that LTT did a while back: https://youtu.be/dLX54ounENY 
It's very informative about dust buildup and fan configurations. You're free to set things up however you want, and you can monitor temps in games to see which configurations yield the best temperatures for your particular build. 

Edit: in order to run more fans than headers you have on your board, you can get fan splitters, hubs, or controllers.
Splitters make fans share the power of the motherboard header, which reduces maximum rpm for those fans. A hub is generally powered by SATA, so you get better rpm range. A hardware fan controller (usually an old style 5.25" bay thing) is very similar to a hub, but you have physical and manual control over fan speed.

A hub like this: https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-Technology-Silverstone-Splitter-SST-CPF04-USA/dp/B07N3HP8S5/ (there are cheaper options, this one just happened to come up in my search and has SATA power)

Or an old 2000s style DVD bay controller like this: https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-ZM-MFC1-Multi-Speed-Controller/dp/B004FKRP40/
Simple Y splitters, or even using Arctic PST fans (meaning they have the ability to daisy chain) is easier and should be easy to find on Amazon.
You have tons of options available. Once you have decided how to connect all the fans, I'd just run some experiments with actual fan layouts to see which yield the best temperatures. 

Unless you convert to water cooling for the CPU and mount the radiator at the top, I would only bother with one extra fan. I would mount it as exhaust in the rearmost top slot,
I have run dual top fans in both exhaust and alternating on my air cooled setup and saw zero change in temperatures or any other change in performance. However the single top rear exhaust absolutely helps, mainly when lowering my CPU fan curves to make the system quieter.

You could try to verify that keyboard is the problem by finding or borrowing any other keyboard you know doesn't have issues, or you could probably even just unplug the keyboard when you launch the game and see how it goes.

3 minutes ago, lvlasked said:

no just 2 so its in dual channel but it only works with 1 stick in

You have to be in a1 and b1 or a2 and b2 to get dual channel.
If you try running a1 and a2 or b1 and b2 it will be single channel and explain why it says memory is in wrong slot. That shouldn't prevent it from booting, however.

Edit: I see what you're saying is wrong now. Your grammar/wording has been confusing lol. 
Sounds like the board might be faulty. You could try clearing the CMOS or updating the BIOS before attempting to run 2 sticks again; but its sounding like you may need to RMA the board.

Just now, lvlasked said:

get a error saying memory in wrong slot in i put it in a1 or b1 but if i put ram in 1 ran stick in a2 it boots up if i put one stick in b2 it boot up but say its not optimized but if i but the sticks in A2 and B2 where there ment to be so you can run dual channel no go throws the dram light on

So are you trying to run 4 sticks of RAM?

1 minute ago, lvlasked said:

yeah sorry im tired been at this all day either way it only boot with 1 stick in a2 

So it basically will only boot with one stick in each channel?
For example, it will boot with sticks in a1 and b1 or a2 and b2; but will not boot with all 4 slots filled

Newest member of the collection. Perhaps getting to see the road again soon with the smell of rain on the horizon.

It's hard to say why it wouldn't boot. Modern motherboards shouldn't care too much if RAM isn't inserted in dual channel with two sticks, but in theory it is possible.
I would check the motherboard manual for which slots are ideal for only two sticks. You should also confirm on the dram sticks themselves if the manufacturing dates are the same, serial numbers near matching too. I would also verify both sticks boot on their own to isolate a faulty stick.

I've had tons of problems with Corsair DDR4, so it doesn't surprise me too much; however repeating the issue with the Crucial makes it seem like its not the Corsair's fault

2 hours ago, Eastman51 said:

Update:

 

I swapped the 2400G back in for a sanity check, and it worked perfectly just like before. 
So I tried the 2600x, and it *does* POST; however it takes literally 2+ minutes to do so, and it won't detect the M.2 drive.

 

What the hell is going on with this thing? 

 

I could try updating the BIOS, or I have another pair of ddr4 dimms I could try. The 2600x and this board really don't play nice at all. 

Never encountered this level of tomfoolery with a motherboard before, but a BIOS update fixed it. Its in windows within seconds now. 

The even weirder part is I was only one BIOS version behind....

Update:

I swapped the 2400G back in for a sanity check, and it worked perfectly just like before. 
So I tried the 2600x, and it *does* POST; however it takes literally 2+ minutes to do so, and it won't detect the M.2 drive.

What the hell is going on with this thing? 

I could try updating the BIOS, or I have another pair of ddr4 dimms I could try. The 2600x and this board really don't play nice at all. 

Hello, I've been banging my head against a wall for the last couple of hours now.

So I built this ITX PC a little over a year ago now, with a 2400G and a MSI B450i. Not had any issues with it until now.

I hadn't been using the ITX PC (I have multiple PCs) so I let my friend borrow the 1080 out of it while he waited to get a 3060Ti. I recently got the 1080 back, and since I had upgraded CPUs in my main PC, I thought I could upgrade CPUs in the ITX PC.

So I threw my old 2600x into it and now I just get the VGA light. I've tried another GPU other than the 1080, and same issue. Both the 1080 and test GPU are confirmed working in a 4790k machine. The 2600x was working before. I had to get a new motherboard for the new CPU, so the 2600x stayed exactly where it was from the moment I pulled my CPU cooler off and deposited the old board back into its box. It was just tonight that I took that board out to extract the 2600x. 

I have also tried resetting the BIOS by jumping the two pins, as well as reseating the CPU. I found a hair stuck to the bottom of it, but removing it does not seem to have fixed the issue. 

It is getting late and I don't have time to mess with it any more tonight, but at this point I think there's an issue with the board. I can break the 2400G back out tomorrow to see if that works, as it has integrated graphics perhaps it will clear post; perhaps the issue lies in the PCIe slot....

I don't recall updating the BIOS on this B450i, perhaps it requires an update to work with 2nd gen???

Edit: 2600x doesn't have any bent pins

I'd like to see suggestions before I go poking around and go mad. I had other PC related plans for tomorrow, now potentially ruined by this.....

handbrake cables will stretch over time if they're used frequently. They can also be prone to snapping with age, depending on the car. 
On my RX-7, the handbrake cable runs over the exhaust and when it begins to rust with age it becomes easy to snap thanks to the constant heat cycles. Yes it is "protected" by the exhaust heat shield, but that did not prevent it from snapping anyway.

Welcome to the family.

8 hours ago, Bitter said:

Those fog lights might as well be high beams with that much glare, please don't use them around traffic.

Nah, they're fine. I've driven behind my friends with and without the fog lights on, before and after the LED swap. None of them think the fog lights are too bright, in fact, they think my headlights need aimed because my low beams are borderline too high.

Edit: its probably just glare in my phone camera.

Proper LED lights won't blind anyone. The key is that the light emitting chips are the same size, shape, and placed in the same location compared to a halogen bulb; if they do, they will have the same cutoff lines as a halogen bulb while having more/stronger light within the region its supposed to.

Gave the Corolla it's first pressure wash, and gave the new wheels a good cleaning. 

I also swapped from cheap no-name halogen bulbs to some nice Alla LED fog lights on my daily driver. The difference is night and day, almost literally

Based on what I've seen thus far, I'm the only rotary owner here. 

Hello

I am in the process of setting up a new machine I put together, however I can't seem to get the thing to clear POST or do anything at all.

I purchased a used ASRock H97m Pro4 off a guy I know today (he had it stored in an esd motherboard bag). 

I am using a Pentium G3220, which I got from a different friend (I've had this CPU in my possession for a while, stored in a CPU plastic holder thing like what comes in the box); the CPU worked just fine on the motherboard it used to be installed in not too long ago.

(Funnily enough, the old CPU from the H97 board is in the motherboard the Pentium used to be in; both in my possession).

I installed the CPU into the H97 board as normal, got the system all put together, etc etc. Went to boot it up, screen came up and said "CPU Replacement Detected" and then reset; where now it powers on but nothing happens but spinning fans.

I tried clearing CMOS, and have tried numerous different DDR3 kits, I also have a case speaker installed so it should beep if anything happens. I have tried reseating the CPU and using iso to clean the bottom contacts on the CPU, compressed air to blow out the socket, and ofc repaste. Using a copper core Intel stock cooler, should be fine for this application. I have also tried two different PSUs at this point, with no difference in results. The only thing I have not tried as of yet, is a different CPU (I do have a few other Haswell CPUs on hand, but they are all installed in boards atm so I would like to avoid having to yoink one). The only things hooked up are the CPU fan, a singular 92mm case fan, CPU power, mobo power, USB 3 header, a PCI RJ45 NIC, and a 120GB SATA SSD; there is no GPU or anything else hooked up.

The SSD does not have an OS on it atm. System should boot to BIOS or tell me to insert boot media, but I can't get anything out of it as of yet. Any ideas?

Just now, ComputerBuilder said:

and also, i need  help on wha tthe differences are on the zens, is there a huge performance boost 2700 vs 3600? i think the 2700 can run 36000mhz ram, and cant i just overclock cl16 kit for 3600mhz????

A 3600 will perform better in gaming, but the higher core and thread count on the 2700 will edge it to a slight victory in multithreaded workloads. All Ryzens can run 3600mhz RAM to my knowledge. Overclocking a lower rated memory kit to 3600 will depend on the memory. Some kits respond poorly to overclocks, while others can overclock to the moon. Pretty sure there's a website out there you can use to generate a memory profile to plug into the BIOS to try and get lower latency and higher clocks