TheDankKoosh

If you want a cheap 1080 based rig and you already have the card and nothing else, grab a lenovo P520 from ebay with a W2135 and 32gb of ram, you'll get more cores/cache along with quad channel and skylake arch for better IPC. Whole systems without drives can be had for $200 and a $40 dollar nvme will make it a very capable gaming rig.
 

If you want a cheap 1080 based rig and you already have the card and nothing else, grab a lenovo P520 from ebay with a W2135 and 32gb of ram, you'll get more cores/cache along with quad channel and skylake arch for better IPC. Whole systems without drives can be had for $200 and a $40 dollar nvme will make it a very capable gaming rig.
 

Best results will be had from your chip by utilizing PBO2 overclocking options, maxed out power limiters and +200mhz PBO settings will give you the best performance on Zen 3. A little extra performance to be had by tuning with a negative curve optimizer offset, all of this should be set in the BIOS though. After that focusing on memory/fclk and tuning timings will give you much better gaming performance.
 
Test out the above settings I suggested with something like a -10 all core CO offset and see how you chip is boosting, if everything looks good I can assist in memory tuning, but I will need info on your memory config and what ICs your memory is using. Thaiphoon Burner is generally a good tool for this

Best results will be had from your chip by utilizing PBO2 overclocking options, maxed out power limiters and +200mhz PBO settings will give you the best performance on Zen 3. A little extra performance to be had by tuning with a negative curve optimizer offset, all of this should be set in the BIOS though. After that focusing on memory/fclk and tuning timings will give you much better gaming performance.
 
Test out the above settings I suggested with something like a -10 all core CO offset and see how you chip is boosting, if everything looks good I can assist in memory tuning, but I will need info on your memory config and what ICs your memory is using. Thaiphoon Burner is generally a good tool for this

PBO is an algorithm that uses on chip logistics and monitoring to best provide extra clock speed when more performance is requested by programs, also controlling when the chip needs to scale things back. This happens very quickly in few millisecond spans and is generally is optimal state of any Zen products after Zen 2. You generally cannot achieve equivalent light-load clock speeds when manually overclocking since the chip typically better determines when and how clock speed and voltage shifts need to happen. PBO can and will generally use higher voltages since the chip will be allowed to stretch it's legs from relaxed voltage and amperage requirements, this is not inherently harmful to the chips.
 
X3D chips have more stringent limits placed onto them due to the relatively fragile nature of the stacked cache, the extra cache also has the added deficit of running 10-15c hotter than their non stacked counterparts. As such these chips are multiple hundred megahertz short and limited to ~1.2v during heavy operation, at stock they tend to throttle slightly even if you're on a good cooler. Thankfully with the 7800x3d, AMD allowed support for one of the best PBO features Curve Optimizer, which allows you to adjust the voltage/frequency algorithm and effectively undervolt your CPU for every given frequency while still retaining the benefits of PBO itself. You'd likely see a 200-300mhz bump from just using curve optimizer to dial the algo down and give you the proper max clocks that your chip can handle at that same 1.2v limit. Hope this explains a majority of what you're looking to find with this topic.
 
Take it from me, someone who has watched for over 10 years, Linus has a generally poor understanding of hardware and there are far better sources to read/watch if you want something properly informative.

I'd personally be more partial to a 1080 ti, rtx 3060, or rtx 2080 over the 5700 xt in the current used market, here's a few links to get you started. I personally wouldn't pay any more than these prices for these GPUs respectively
 
https://www.jawa.gg/product/18596/Asus-Strix-GeForce-GTX-1080-Ti-OC-Edition-WATER-COOLED
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/175820791889?hash=item28efbc6051%3Ag%3AXGIAAOSwolhkhyNa&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4BBH5BDmYCqtmqa5C%2BBTOMbIGW70yqHuZTChbh1zSPjbN0rXiMWRj%2FHjxEN3Xu95qiCJ%2FSWbRB9w0kzNk5rp46zQG6pwR%2BL6jmTSlBvCtMe3u%2FmJH7NGpME7iKq25rHnXNgJz%2FhYPmF%2BT%2FOH6ZZg3cBdcdCwi3GTE4WSg9H06eAc%2FYlfkEZlQPFccFPbPoHF1haXyqI1jNxTXX%2BkYuRYGlxAF0uf3mXf3EvltRyPhNbzibKidiR%2BdSUnwMCt8opCwT7P1Hb%2FHr1Mj2iyOwuFVFTny1AZ6i2fa%2BA7JrrqtjtD|tkp%3ABk9SR4zuoI-sYg&LH_BIN=1&LH_ItemCondition=1000|1500|2000|2010|2500|3000
 
https://www.ebay.com/itm/285383390334?hash=item42722cf47e%3Ag%3AYCoAAOSwkKFkss2p&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4F8d7%2FQln2HO9tgSewSamxvzptuVcNVagqlwR%2BBaQrsqXhcZLS8KN3JeOTHT0GiPaOmVrxajSL44%2FCg8oCRwj6fMHm6UoG9I1SMp4%2FP1r6jalC65aarT%2FT%2BQLL%2FaL8e4nhnftE10xfjn%2F4kZW4wNuoBTZ0cYmiUYXza2hZ%2F4kASdylq65yDx%2BP7H87Dk3T3tPNJQhMM3JmM%2FAbWLKFrYZcxQQVvRnwP28uuOiwgOHMYoXFJOyBTfH4l9uq023aasQPc06SNyST50yxo65ZK7K0ncgJYopLJYC6Iv2V%2F31EtZ|tkp%3ABk9SR9qqto-sYg&LH_BIN=1&LH_ItemCondition=1500|2010|2500|3000|1000

Figured I'd throw my hand in this after testing this weird hardware, Erying 11980HK (ES) mobo+CPU combo. 4.9 1*, 4.8 2*, 4.6 rest, cache has actually gone up 100mhz, but that's pretty irrelevant in the grand scheme of things. Lookin like a stock 11900k/5700x, not too shabby for $180, might be decent for a budget build, I went and paired it with the 3080 in my main build and a $150 kit of dual rank b-die like a madman to replace my 10850k.
 

Lmao you're welcome little tyke, I think you'll be pretty satisfied with the rig as I configured and it'll last you awhile. Also I'm not old just cause I wasn't born this century 

I'd say swapping the SSD is your only good option in this list, that PSU that you've suggested is a well disguised bomb, and spending $5 more on a easier to work with case with 2 more fans is a no-brainer.
Swapping to that 3200 LPX crap will have performance repercussions, especially if you want to upgrade your GPU https://pcpartpicker.com/list/FxWnW4

This would be what I would purchase at that budget, I'd try to stretch that extra $20 for a quality high-capacity SSD to go along with the system
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VVr3Kp
This would crush any game provided you give it a GPU with enough horsepower

Make sure to pair that Ryzen 5500 with high quality DDR4 memory to take advantage of the monolithic AMD design compared to the normal chiplet designs
These chips can do ram at 4400mhz (2200 infinity fabric clock) easy and this will prevent any bad stutters and give you a very snappy and responsive system
How much would you be wanting to spend in total?

The memory controller has an easier time keeping up with dual rank in a 4x8 configuration compared to 2x16, dual rank is also the only way to increase bandwidth and decrease latency when pinned at 3600+. A dual rank 3733 setup would perform similar to a single rank 4000 setup, with the 4000 only winning slightly in latency. Many ryzen chips are capable of 3800 dual rank so there's little reason to not go that route.
 
These are the conclusions I've come to in my own testing, test it yourself if you don't believe me

The memory controller has an easier time keeping up with dual rank in a 4x8 configuration compared to 2x16, dual rank is also the only way to increase bandwidth and decrease latency when pinned at 3600+. A dual rank 3733 setup would perform similar to a single rank 4000 setup, with the 4000 only winning slightly in latency. Many ryzen chips are capable of 3800 dual rank so there's little reason to not go that route.
 
These are the conclusions I've come to in my own testing, test it yourself if you don't believe me

Solder is going to be softer at anything beyond normal operating temps, at least 100-120c is around the temp you'd want for the solder to be soft enough for mechanical pressure from the delidding tool to do its work, at least in my experience. I would start off with a pre-heat and then throw it in the tool, crank some and blast with a heatgun for a few seconds, repeat as needed until you feel pressure break off and see a notable shift in the IHS, keep cranking slow and steady during the process, chipping away at the SMDs on the substrate will likely cause issues so you want to take a lot of caution when performing this.

That's the unfortunate reality, as you'd have to identify what memory IC that your current stick is using and be able to find a stick using the same IC that you'd be able to purchase. You'd be better off making it easy on yourself and purchasing a new kit that you know will give the configuration that you're looking for.

Dual rank is pretty beneficial on DDR4 as it provides a ~10% performance improvement at the same settings, it is harder to run dual rank, and your memory controller or motherboard may become the limiting factor if you want to push memory speeds, but that only affects overclocking. I'd go for a cheap kit of 2x16 DDR4 3600.

That's the unfortunate reality, as you'd have to identify what memory IC that your current stick is using and be able to find a stick using the same IC that you'd be able to purchase. You'd be better off making it easy on yourself and purchasing a new kit that you know will give the configuration that you're looking for.

Dual rank is pretty beneficial on DDR4 as it provides a ~10% performance improvement at the same settings, it is harder to run dual rank, and your memory controller or motherboard may become the limiting factor if you want to push memory speeds, but that only affects overclocking. I'd go for a cheap kit of 2x16 DDR4 3600.

Unfortunately throttlestop is a no go due to lack of per core OC and voltage controls, those are crucial for maximizing performance on newer intel chips (currently 4.7 on 6 weakest cores -20mv, 4.8 on 2nd best at -20, best 4.9 +40). Also helps to control thermals since the heatspreader isn't the greatest and high heat density. I currently have LM under the heatspreader but normal paste on top, may play with LM on top and try to throw on more voltage from the bios. Memory/VCCSA still has me stumped however.
 

How is he going to run DDR5 on a DDR4 board? Performance can largely be attributed to latency in non workstation applications anyhow, and a good kit of DDR4 b-die will run just as well as a 6000 kit of DDR5 in terms of latency at a lower price. There is 0 reason to swap if he already has the ram and the board on hand.

Running the card with that aggressive of an undervolt won't have any of the vrm components going above 60c ever, high end gpus like this will typically get 105-125c 5k-10k caps which would probably run this card for at least 20 years with occasional maintenance, I'd wager something else would die on the card first with heavy use. 

I would say the best chip that you could use is a q9000, those can be found on ebay for around $20, the system will get extra smoothness from the two extra cores, but clock speed on such an old architecture is going to be a large factor for smoothness as well, if you can OC on stock voltage up to something more reasonable (2.6-3ghz) you'll be fairly well off.

I can assure you that you could not find a 6800xt for $600 brand new 2 and a half months ago, this was also before the updates to encoder quality on AMD which had mattered to me, but I'll bite. AMD has had some catching up to do, but they've been making changes where it counts and will likely be my recommendation as long as they deliver suitable raster and RT upgrades with RX 7000, nvidia housefire tier power consumption and turn toward AI frame insertion is honestly a regression in many ways, not to mention the "4080 12gb". Even if a 7800xt turns out to be slower than a 4080 16gb it will still be a better buy around $800 which is what AMD will try to target and undercut nvidia.

I would say that the AOC 24g2 is the defacto choice for most use cases under the 200 dollar mark

I would say that the AOC 24g2 is the defacto choice for most use cases under the 200 dollar mark