Petulak

Thanks for suggestion but that’s not upgrade at all, just basically same tier headphones, different brand. My work laptop has bluetooth and I assume I can buy a dongle for home desktop.

Hi, currently I have Sennheiser HD558 + ASUS Xonar D1, they are great but I would like to upgrade. Initially I wanted to go with the Massdrop 6xx or Sennheiser HD650s but I decided to get somewhat portable closed over ear headphones to use at work too. Below I will list few options I've considered and my preferences, would love some headphone advices. Use: 90% music (pretty much every style), 10% gaming Design: Minimalist, no wooden motives or anything, see my picks Mic: I would like to them to have microphone but it's not condition Cable: I would 80% prefer bluetooth but again, not dead set on this, I definitely don't want long cable like my 558s have or allow me to swap to shorter one I don't want to carry DAC/AMP to work, sound card should be enough for home use in this price range My picks: Bose QuietComfort 35 II - They look nice, feel good, the noise cancelation sounds insane even if I don't need it and the sound is good but definitely not $400 worth, maybe even worse than my 558s for under $200. I've tried them for 2 minutes and they didn't get exactly loud, used BT with iPhone XS, still top tier pick for me Sony WH-1000MX3 - basically the same as Bose QC35, didn't get to touch Bose Soundlink AE II - very similar to QC35 minus the noise cancelation and $100 cheaper Sennheiser PXC 550 Wireless - know nothing about them but everything from Sennheiser has been good to me I won't buy Beats or Marshall headphones Thanks for advice

The card is second hand and has been used in mining rig for 2 months before. I suspect the previous owner might've flashed the cards BIOS or something similar since the crazy clocks. The card will not run under load at "stock" speeds and will crash. I've been running it underclocked at -50/-50 and it work's fine. The temperature also reaches higher values than what I read on review sites before buying, currently I have temp capped at 84 degrees and it reaches that level. Could I somehow figure out if the card has been modified? Stock clocks the card should have according to multiple sites: Core: 1607 MHz / 1721 MHz boost Memory: 5700 MHz (11.4k) My clocks already downclocked by -50/-50 Core: 1870 MHz+ (gaming - 99% load) Memory: 5643 MHz (11.3k)

I worded that poorly, I meant suggestions about the crashing, component prices are outrageous in my country, they usually cost 50% more than what you recommend. I would just get something from the Tier 1/2 list, currently at Tier 6 , conviniently the rm750i is there. Nothing is overclocked, GPU is at -100/-100 (Inno3D iChill 1080ti X3). From googling some people solved their issues with new PSU so I assumed I should have the problem too since mine is being shitty. Shadow of Tomb Raider runs fine on 0/0 OC, but Overwatch would crash every 2 or 3 games, after -100/-100 OC I got to play 2 hours straight.

Hi, just wanted to make sure if my PSU is actually faulty. I have the Corsair VS650 650W (yeah..) and everything was fine with i7-3770k + 980ti until I upgraded to 1080ti. Did DDU reinstall but most of my games still keep crashing, happens mostly at powerspikes (when door in OW opens etc.). I usually get error messages "D3D device removed", "Graphics device removed" or some driver errors/BSODs. The PSU also sometimes makes high pitch/buzzing noise. Anyway I underclocked my GPU by -100/-100 and crashing stopped and I have my eyes on mint Corsair RM750i, any other suggestions?

I've read and tried all the google searches before, apparently it's issue with 144hz not being divideable by 60 and gsync. It doesn't require any high load to shutter, just spotify having new song change cover or ad poping up will make it shutter. I've tried having both on GPU and 1/1 on iGPU but it makes zero difference. Playing windowed/borderless/fullscreen or any number of things I tried didn't work. Random shot, I have 144Hz connected with DP and the second one with HDMI, could that maybe help if I plug both to 980ti and DP?

I've searched around and found basically no solution, are there any known fixes to this? I have ASUS ROG SWIFT PG279Q (144Hz/1440p/G-sync) and some basic 1080p/60Hz connected to my iGPU. I understand the video rendering comes first but if any animation at all happens on my second screen my frames on main one drop or it just shutters hard, is there any help to this? Setting main one to 120Hz doesnt help. Thanks. I've tried disabling HW acceleration, different refresh rates,plugging to iGPU and no luck so far. Using i7-3770k and 980ti

Yes as it's obvious from previous posts, I used to play LoL on passive but now GPU sits at 100% load and high temps.

The card runs at 100% power even when playing light games

Fan is not dead, card has passive mode. Vsync is off due to gsync monitor, but I FPS lock all games to 144.

My MSI 980ti currently idles at 58 degrees and 0 RPM but in any game no matter the game the card goes 100% usage and even reaches 89 degrees while it should max out at 83 which it did for first year. I can be playing Civ 5, PUBG, Rocket lague on any details but the card will always run at 100% usage. The card is clean and repasted around half a year ago, maybe there is a hidden option that forces the card to full power all the time? Specs are W10, i7-3770k, 16GB and 1440p 144Hz display.

Even on underclocked -90/-200 and fan on 100% the gpu goes to 88s

The card is in title, it's MSI GTX980ti, the red one with 2 fans, running on stock clocks since I got it. I would like to leave repasting as last option. I didn't play with any power settings as you can't find them in drivers and I didn't need any more power yet.

I don't remember doing anything to my system except updating to the new big Windows 10 update and somehow my 980ti which got to 83 degrees when I really pushed it now gets to 88 in every game and even goes to 93. The card is clean and I wouldn't blame summer as it hit 92 degrees today when its 12 degrees outside. The card gets hot no matter the game, Mass Effect Andromeda/Sniper Ghost Warrior 3/Redie/Paint the town red. Drivers are up to date. Any advice? I wouldn't want to toast it even when it should be under warranty.

It was matte display and I never even touched the front panel side, that's what dissappoints me. Not sure what to expect from my Samsung display now since it's curved and definitely somewhat fragile