zdog16

So as a building automation programmer and system engineer I can tell you there is a way better way to do this. But it would require re-designing the system. 
 
The American standard Thermostats are probably required because of the factory controls inside the AC themselves only speak their proprietary protocol. It’s probably some Lon or BACNet variant but would still be proprietary and not compatible with anything else. The only way to remove these would be to rip out the factory controls likely voiding warranty on the units, or to purchase AC equipment that does not have factory controls included. 

That said, the way I would design this system would be to put IP controls on the AC units. Those controllers would be located at the unit and then put a ModBus wall sensor in each room. That sensor could include a display and buttons for setpoint adjust. Then you could use Node-Red on the IP controller to communicate with the relay board and call for in-floor heating whenever the room temp drops below the floor heating. 
 
Less devices, more control, home assistant not required but easily integrated.

What he should do is get a full Building Automation System or BAS.
They're more commonly used in commercial applications but I with all the stuff he want's to put together it would be the best solution.
I work for a BAS contractor here in the US and we have products to solve every automation issue he brought up in the video.
All of the heating valves can be controlled with an IO controller and the 2 conductor wire to all the zones would just be used for zone temperature sensors tied back to the BAS.
Furnace and AC would be hooked up to similar IO controllers and the thermostats would also be replaced with room sensors. Everything could be controlled via a webpage or through Node-Red integration to whatever service(s) you want. We even have wall-mount touch screens to control everything. I'd love to help design a system to integrate everything!!

I think it's less your alone and more that your taking a weird route to most people. Decent Chinese camera rigs are getting so cheap on amazon/ebay not many people are taking the time to build something from the ground up like you are. Plus with bigger cameras, sturdiness becomes much more important to keep vibrations and oscillations out of your shot. You are using a pretty small and light camera making it easier to build something that will keep it solid. 
I applaud you for creating your own solution! keep posting as you come up with more cool stuff. 

I'd recommend you a D5300/5500/5600, depending on the deals you get. Solid choices, work really well for me and the d50 lenses should work on the d5300 and up
 
Maybe if you get a really good deal you could get even a d7x00 body in that price range, consider used too

I believe HikVision cameras can do some of that. They are IP based some of them use PoE, some use PoE or a dedicated power supply, but they have on board motion detection, alarms, email alerts(I think). They're going to be more expensive than a ring or something of that kind, but I've had friends find deals on eBay. I found this one with just 1 search, if you dig a little bit you can probably find something in your price range.
Since they're IP based you can pull it up in a browser window on your PC and just have it in the background or on another monitor.

I am a Mavic Owner, and I have worked with the Inspire 1. I've have not had hands on experience with the Phantom 4, but honestly for hobbyist use the Mavic is just as good. The cameras are almost identical as far as specs are concerned, see here. And the size comparison puts the Mavic ahead as far as portability and ease of use. I tell people all the time that having the ability to throw a drone in your backpack when I go out on a normal video shoot adds a ton of value since most projects just need 10-15 seconds of drone footage to bring up the production value. Last December I took a work trip to Wisconsin and threw the Mavic in my carry-on. In the time that other people I was working with took smoke breaks, I would through the Mavic up and I was able to get some really cool pics just because I could. If I had a Phantom or inspire I would have never gotten these. 

I too have always been looking to get video gear on the cheap. The best thing that I have found to do, especially on support gear like sliders and stabilizers. Look for used stuff, and be patient. The item you are looking for may not be available at a price you are willing to pay right now, but if you keep looking and saving, eventually you will either find it at the right price, or save up enough money to buy one new. I have gotten several pro pieces of gear just by looking and waiting. Ebay and Craigslist are great ways to find what you're looking for, also develop contacts with other video professionals around you. Just this last year I bought a Movi M5 from a guy for less than 1/2 of the price of a new one, just because I knew the guy pretty well and he was willing to give me a great deal.
There are a few pieces of gear that I would suggest you be wary of buying used like DSLR bodies, but for things like a sliders, tripods and rail systems used gear is perfectly fine. 

The Atomos recorders will let you record continuously, as long as it has sufficient power, doesn't have overheating issues (i.e. using them in hot climate regions) and gets burnt out.  And of course sufficient storage space.
 
The problem is the camera.  Most DSLRs require live view mode to be active for the HDMI out to be sending a proper video signal instead of just replicating what the live view is showing.  In my Nikon DSLRs for example, if I don't switch to video mode live view, the photo mode live view is not a proper clean video signal.  And DSLRs have a time limit, more like a power saving feature, that the live view mode can automatically be turned off if you don't touch any button on the camera (like a computer going to sleep or showing the screen saver after it's been idle for a while) and it isn't recording video to the internal memory card.

With the phantom drones, you cannot manually move the gimbal left or right so that when you are flying it and so it foes not show the landing gear and lees of the props. and as for the pan comp you should be able to go into the DJI GO app (or whatever its called these days) and adjust how far, fast, sensitive, etc the gimbal is to the different movements that you would throw at it with using it as a normal camera, but on the other hand it works to stabilize you video well as if you had something like the OSMO but of course will an entire drone in your hand.
Hope this helps!

Was in the same spot a few months ago and I bought the Mavic. I would do it again, I love the portability of the Mavic, and the few features you give up is totally worth the abiblity to have it with you at all times. It's small enough that I keep in in my EDC backpack so I have it with me all the time. On several occasions I've had some time to kill so I took the Mavic out and was able to get shots that I would not have gotten otherwise. I do a lot of video shoots where 10-20 seconds of drone footage can add a TON of production value, and the Mavic is a great way to do that. Here's some footage I got the last time I took it up on a whim to shoot some footage of a construction site at a school I work at.
 
 

Was in the same spot a few months ago and I bought the Mavic. I would do it again, I love the portability of the Mavic, and the few features you give up is totally worth the abiblity to have it with you at all times. It's small enough that I keep in in my EDC backpack so I have it with me all the time. On several occasions I've had some time to kill so I took the Mavic out and was able to get shots that I would not have gotten otherwise. I do a lot of video shoots where 10-20 seconds of drone footage can add a TON of production value, and the Mavic is a great way to do that. Here's some footage I got the last time I took it up on a whim to shoot some footage of a construction site at a school I work at.
 
 

This is a very inaccurate over simplification of what Premiere and After Effects are designed to do.
 
OK let me answer your second question first.
Premiere Pro - is a non linear editing (NLE) system mainly for editing video.  In the latest versions of Premiere you can also use the Lumetri Panel to do some color grading. After Effects - is a digital effects, motion graphics and compositing system. Premiere is used to manage and edit sequences of videos, cutting, layering, transitioning, color correcting, grading, keying, to name just a few things that can be done. You can also use it to manage and edit audio tracks, cut them, layer them, mix them (to a certain degree), adjust their loudness.  But when you need to add 3D text or animation, composite visual elements from different sources, manipulate 2D/3D objects in a virtual 3D space, essentially if you want to add special effects to your videos, you need to use AE.
 
Premiere and AE are meant to be used together in a workflow.  People can choose to use each of them as a stand alone tool from start to finish of an entire video editing process, however there are things that Premiere does better than AE and vice versa so choosing to do everything in only one application can mean that you may end up having to do more work to get something done whilst using a workflow that utilizes both applications (along with other tools like Audition for audio editing and mixing, and perhaps Speedgrade for color grading) can make the work easier.
 
Now for your first question, what exactly do you want to know because there are many terminologies used in video production, from start to finish?
 
Lower Third simply describes placement of graphics around the lower third area of the safe zone of the screen.  There are also elements like Score Bug (Score Banner, Scorebar) that shows the scores of sports matches, for example.  There's Closed Captioning, News Ticker, Watermark, Subtitle, to name a few more.

If your camera has dual memory card slots, you can natively set in the camera menu to save RAW files to one card and JPEG files to another card.  If the camera doesn't have dual memory card slots (and your T6i doesn't) then perhaps there may be a firmware hack/trick (I'm thinking CHDK or Magic Lantern) that may offer you this feature, if it supports it at all.
 
Why do you want to separate RAW and JPEG files?  You can just move the JPEG files to another folder when you load the memory card on your computer?  If you use Lightroom, it actually does a good job at organizing things for people who shoot RAW+JPEG.  It doesn't automatically put them in separate folders, which you can do yourself manually in LR or just keep them stacked.
 
http://laurashoe.com/2012/10/16/rawjpeg-continued-managing-rawjpeg-files-in-lightroom/
 
Also, is there any particular reason why you're shooting RAW + JPEG, all the time?

Go and ask Linus, sure he'll listen...

Why is there no forum specifically for VR? It seems like a must-have category for this site given the number of videos based around that topic on the LTT YouTube channel. Most VR questions get posted in General discussion and people who need support with their headset get lost. I know it would have been nice to have a community to go to when I was setting up my headset the first time.
 
If there is a thread somewhere about this already feel free to remove this post but I couldn't find one. 

It may right that VR isn't ready and didn't arrived for the masses yet ... but this is a tech forum and to not discuss a new technology doesn't really help to implement it.
 
 
 
I think a VR section should get a official place in the LTT forum! 

You have some great pics and it sounds like you know what your doing, but I would be careful of offering to shoot a wedding without any experience. I have worked a several weddings as the Videographer, and I have a friend who is a full-time wedding photographer and it is not nearly as easy as you think it is. There is a lot that goes on, a wedding photographer puts between 20-30 hours of work if not more into a single wedding between meetings with the clients, the shoot itself, editing, and coordinating prints. 
At $2000, the photographer they went with is low in the industry I know of photographers that get paid 10K a single wedding. As videographer I won't even look at a wedding unless its $3K or more, It's just not worth the time and effort.

A motorized FF system is not really necessary, a sturdy tripod or rig and a mechanical FF system or anything that puts a set of gears or levers in between the human hand and the lens' focus ring will do the job.  Another issue I would foresee is the back LCD on a DSLR like the 80D is pretty small.  A larger monitor would be better for accurate manual focus pulling.

It's all a matter of perspective, and experience. I have been using Premiere Pro for years so I am very comfortable with the software and as a result I am very fast in it. I understand how to operate in it's workflow, and my brain thinks that way now because of it. This last semester I took a video editing class for my degree which was taught in Final Cut 10, one of the industry standards for 'Easy to Use'. I could not figure it out on my own for the life of me, the teacher had to show me how to do the most basic of operations. It works completely differently than a Premiere work flow and my brain was not used to it. Your brain right now is used to Vegas and how it operates, when you look for the cut tool(or whatever the equivalent is, I have never used Vegas) you expect it to be in a certain place, and when premier does not have a similar tool in the same place you get confused. 
 
Premiere is a very powerful software that lets you do really complex things fairly easily and gives you ultimate control over ever frame. This means that there are a lot of tools at your disposal in order to achieve that level of control. Even I when I first picked up the program was confused and there was a long, steep learning curve to get proficient with the program. I would look at a few tutorials on a site like Lynda before you give up on the program, but ultimately if you are more comfortable in Vegas and it does what you want it to do then stick with it. There's no reason to make yourself miserable just so you can be on the "right" software.  I will say that if you want a job in the video industry you better learn Premiere, Final Cut, or AVID because you will see one of those 3 at any major production house, and you would be better off to be able to work in at least 2 of the 3. 

You are absolutely right, these images were chosen to be an unfair comparison on purpose. If the camera is used properly then you will obviously get a better image out of the better camera. My point is that if you don't know what your doing then a $2000 camera won't make your pictures any better and you can get fantastic images out of an inexpensive crop-sensor camera. Thus for someone just starting out a full frame DSLR is overkill.
 
 If your still curious the top image was taken with my D5100 and a 35mm f1.8(52mm FF equivalent). The bottom image was taken with my D750 and a 24-120 f4. Admittedly it was a bit difficult to find an image that looked worse from the 750 both because of the better sensor and because my skill level has continued to increase since the 5100 was my primary shooter. 

He said budget is not really a problem, which is the only reason I would give that advise. If you are on a tight budget then you should only go with what you really need, but if you have the money, and are willing to spend it, it may be worth your investment in the future. Both camera specs are great, and besides the resolution I don't know of any other feature differences. It will ultimately come down to how much money you are willing to spend. 

You are totally right.
I tell people all the time that buying an expensive camera does not automatically make your pictures better, especially if you're shooting in manual. 
I was fortunate enough to be able to move from a crop-sensor D5100 to a Full Frame D-750. Here are two pics, one from each camera. Which one is the more expensive camera?
 

If budget is not much of an issue go with the 4K. Don't think that 4K isn't much of a thing right now. Almost all professional films today are shot in 4K, most in an even higher resolution like 4.5 or 6K, and then mastered down to 1080p for distribution. Even if you don't initially use the resolution when you first get the camera, you will future proof yourself for that one time in 2 years when you get a client that wants the final cut delivered in 4K. With the wave of affordable 4K TVs hitting the market 4K is coming closer and closer to mainstream adoption. If you have a flexible budget go for the higher end option so that you can grow into it. Most people don't buy 4K cameras because of budget restrictions, if you don't have those budget restrictions get the best gear available. 
 
 

I bought a used Atomos Ninja2 for $200 and it works great. It's much thicker and heaver than the Small HD monitors but for the AppleProRes recording its worth it. I think that it's a better solution than the BlackMagic monitors since it can record to a desktop SSD/HDD rather than an SD card. It makes importing in post so much easier both because it's faster and because I usually have a second camera shooting to SD and I can import both at the same time. 

As far as the lenses it will ultamly be based on what you want to shoot, but like I mentioned before I own the 35mm DX lens that I used with my D5100 and I think that it's a great versatile prime. The 35mm focal length works out to about a 50mm full frame equivilent which is a standard prime lens for portrait or landscape work. It has really nice boka even on the crop sensor body and you will be amazed at the amount of light you can get into the camera especially at night. Here is a pic that I took with that lens on my 5100 years ago that I'm still really proud of.

 
As far as the bag goes Think Tank makes a line of 'Street' Bags that I hear are very good, I don't own one but they look like they are good quality and there are plenty of options to choose from. I also would suggest looking at regular backpacks and then just getting some foam dividers to keep all your gear safe and organized. Personally I carry a 511 Tacitcal Rush 10 every day and I often throw a DSLR and an extra lens in it for run and gun shoots where I don't want to bring my pelican case. 
 
For the tripod, if you only want to use it for stills, you don't need anything fancy. Just make sure that your camera is under the weight rating(the D3300 is pretty light so you will have a hard time finding a tripod that won't support it). If your you're looking to do fancy art photography I would get one with a ball head, which will allow you to position the camera at funky dutch angles and things like that. I found this one on amazon for $50. Tripods start to get expensive when you need high weight capacities and 'fluid heads' for video. A basic set it and leave it tripod is not that expensive. 
 
Keep posting questions and pics it's great to interact with other people who love photography. I always like to come on the LTT fourm and talk with other photographers share pics and swap questions(and hopefully answers). I would love to see more of your pics!